McCulloch Chain Saws

[promac850]

Got a possible line on a pile of old McCs tonight. As described, there's a pile of Minis, a bunch o MexiMac bricks, and some old school good stuff. What's the theme song from the Facts of Life tv show say, something about ya take the good, ya take the bad. If all else fails, I can drop all the minis at the McMuseum in Dike when Mark isn't looking in a couple weeks!

You know where to drop the MexiMac bricks... right on my doorstep...

 

[rwoods]

Welcome back, Kyle. Stick with the chainsaws for a while. Ron

 

[cowroy]

Whew, I got that ole 2-10g running today but I can't keep it running. Are you you supposed to continuously prime it as you run it? If not, what could be keeping it from staying running? Why will it not continuously feed gas into the carb? Thanks!

 

[Ambull]

Whew, I got that ole 2-10g running today but I can't keep it running. Are you you supposed to continuously prime it as you run it? If not, what could be keeping it from staying running? Why will it not continuously feed gas into the carb? Thanks!

No the diaphragms are supposed to pump the fuel in through the L circuit. Sounds like the diaphragms are shot, and the carb needs to be rebuilt.

 

[watsonr]

Anybody know the high RPM setting for a 125 off the top of your head? It's still 4-strokin hard at 10,000. Just a little nervous letting it run that high.

 

[stinkbait]

Anybody know the high RPM setting for a 125 off the top of your head? It's still 4-strokin hard at 10,000. Just a little nervous letting it run that high.

I have mine set at around 10,600 and it still 4 strokes plenty. My buddy Igpoe has his set at around 10,900 and his still 4 strokes. You would probably be safe up to 11,000.

 

[watsonr]

that's what I needed to hear...thanks!!

 

[cowroy]

No the diaphragms are supposed to pump the fuel in through the L circuit. Sounds like the diaphragms are shot, and the carb needs to be rebuilt.

If I gave you the serial number could you tell me the exact model of the saw? I looked at a carb kit for it on the bay and it looked like there was a lot more parts than this carb has.

 

[stinkbait]

If I gave you the serial number could you tell me the exact model of the saw? I looked at a carb kit for it on the bay and it looked like there was a lot more parts than this carb has.

You said in an earlier post that you were priming the carb. I assume you meant priming with the built in primer on the carb. If that's the case then you have the bullfrog carb that came on some of the earlier 10 series saws. And if all that is true then you would be better off finding a used walbro sdc carb than trying to rebuild the bullfrog carb. Walbro sdc carbs are easy to find and cheap to rebuild. You would be better off in the long run.

 

[heimannm]

cowroy - It is not so easy to fit the SDC under the hood of a 2-10, the cover is very low profile. Even then, it require you to make an adapter as the bolt pattern for the McCulloch carburetor is different from the SDC.

Take that carburetor apart and if the diaphragm is stiff, try gently steeping it in a mixture of hot water with a little lemon juice, I think you will find it limbers it right up. There is only one diaphragm in the 10 Series carburetor and it is all purpose (fuel pump and metering) so any kit that has more than one diaphragm (gaskets and diaphragm are all stapled together in one piece) that's not the one you want.

Other possibilities are a stuck check valve, or simply way out of adjustment if you tried to set the needles like any normal carburetor. If you search back a ways in this thread, you should find a series of posts regarding the 10 Series flat back carburetor that may help.

If that doesn't do it, send me a PM with your e-mail address and I can send the 10 Series work shop manual that covers the 10 Series flat back (aka Bullfrog, aka pancake) carburetor in great detail. Be prepared though, you will have to read and study a bit as that carburetor is not like any other you will ever see or work with.

Mark

P.S. If the black rubber duck bill valves are bad, you are probably out of luck as they are truely NLA. I have modified a few of the carburetor bodies to accept the small red duck bill valve from the Homelite saws, but I don't have the Homelite or Oregon part number in front of me right now. I put together some posts on the 10 Series flat back detailing the modification but I don't know if I could ever find them again...

 

[heimannm]

The 10 Series flat back diaphragm looks like this:

Sorry, but painfully slow connection tonight prevents me from showing any more photo's.

Mark

 

[struggle]

Yesterday I took apart a Eager Beaver 2.0 that a friend gave.....or so I thought he was until now:hmm3grin2orange:

Anyways tonight I cleaned it and put it back together with a new fuel line.

Question is how does it pump oil? Does it pull a pulse from on the inner workings of the block. I get how the manual pump works but see nothing else to actuate the pump:msp_unsure:

Everything on the saw seems good otherwise. intake and exhaust on piston look good. So short of the seals being bad I think it should be running tomorrow. To late to start it tonight and I also wanted to be happy when I go to bed so after reading so much negative about the mini-macs I figured I can start it tomorrow in the monring and the pain of it not running right away will escape me as the day goes on:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[8433jeff]

Yesterday I took apart a Eager Beaver 2.0 that a friend gave.....or so I thought he was until now:hmm3grin2orange:

Anyways tonight I cleaned it and put it back together with a new fuel line.

Question is how does it pump oil? Does it pull a pulse from on the inner workings of the block. I get how the manual pump works but see nothing else to actuate the pump:msp_unsure:

Everything on the saw seems good otherwise. intake and exhaust on piston look good. So short of the seals being bad I think it should be running tomorrow. To late to start it tonight and I also wanted to be happy when I go to bed so after reading so much negative about the mini-macs I figured I can start it tomorrow in the monring and the pain of it not running right away will escape me as the day goes on:hmm3grin2orange:

Or you google and find new curse words or voodoo spells to cast upon them. Watch for PETA people if you use the salamander hearts and bunny snot one; for some reason they go nuts about that one.

 

[joeymt33]

Yesterday I took apart a Eager Beaver 2.0 that a friend gave.....or so I thought he was until now:hmm3grin2orange:

Anyways tonight I cleaned it and put it back together with a new fuel line.

Question is how does it pump oil? Does it pull a pulse from on the inner workings of the block. I get how the manual pump works but see nothing else to actuate the pump:

if it has an auto oiler it will be mounted near the bar stud on the front of the saw next to the fuel tank. There is a hole in the front cover that allows you to adjust the auto oiler. And yes you are right about the impulse from the crank case, that is what operates it.

 

[struggle]

if it has an auto oiler it will be mounted near the bar stud on the front of the saw next to the fuel tank. There is a hole in the front cover that allows you to adjust the auto oiler. And yes you are right about the impulse from the crank case, that is what operates it.

Did the Eager beaver come without an auto oiler? I saw where on the block and the hole in the case where one would expect it to possbily have an adjust meant which is nothing more than a casting area on mine.

Also have a Mac110. I wonder if it has on auto oiler on it?

OK I see the 2.0 is manual oiler and 2.1 is the elusive auto oiler and the Mac 110 is an auto oiler. At least that is one less thing to go wrong on the 2.0

 

[HeRoze]

=== If you search back a ways in this thread, you should find a series of posts regarding the 10 Series flat back carburetor that may help.===

This one of them?

http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/71126-272.htm#post2543631

I'm still here, but am deep into replacing the bent crankshaft on the B&S - it was unfortunate enough to be attached to the mower, that was attached to the Mrs. who accidently tried to mow a stump. It is the only stump in the entire yard, and is quite obviously sticking up about 4" above grade and would require someone to raise and then drop the mower deck on it to get it into the blade; it has only taken a few hours to tear it down, and a measly $106.48 in parts are on the way, but I'm not upset... not at all... really... really, really...

 

[Warped5]

Or you google and find new curse words or voodoo spells to cast upon them. Watch for PETA people if you use the salamander hearts and bunny snot one; for some reason they go nuts about that one.

... or you could just beat the crap outta it with a Homelite 150 (sorry Aaron, couldn't resist) and then throw the parts from both saws into your neighbor's yard!

:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[watsonr]

Christmas came early this year, guess my present!!!

Just like it say's, I'll post a few pictures to help you along. Mark, I will need a manual for it if you wouldn't mind?

My hands were shaking, sorry.

 

[watsonr]

Alright, another pic for you Mac heads! Better call your friends, this is going to to be big!

Don't want to give it away to fast! The bar is in perfect shape, chain looks to have never been sharpened! It came with two new chains and a carb kit.

Good luck

 

[watsonr]

The bar, now this should be pretty easy for a seasoned Mac Head!:msp_w00t: