McCulloch Chain Saws

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Clutch cover

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This should do it, someone has to know what this is!
 
The clutch cover and the hype up. Its obviously not a large frame 100+cc clutch cover, and I cant see you being that excited about a 10-10. So the BP-1 seem the most logical to me:laugh:.
 
You Sir...are correct!
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And it came with this nice beauty, 5-10DSP in about the same condition....perfectly preserved since 1966!!
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My hands are still shaking, I can't believe I found it in this nice of shape. Needs wiped off, was drained of fluid in 1966, has two sets of points with it and a carb kit, 4 cans of two-cycle oil and two new chains. It's never been sharpened, not a scuff on the sharpening stone! Came with a 28" bar, Acres say that 24" was the longest supplied, but this is the original bar by the auto mac logo on the bar. And most of the original paperwork too.
 
The guy said he was going to throw it away! Someone built it a wooden box to be stored in and it was given to him so that he could use the box to store his garden tools in. Opened the box and there it was, put it on CL and hoped someone would buy it. Said he was going to give it just one more day until the trash man came, it was on CL for 5 days and not a single call! He was so happy...he sent the saws the same day and within two hours of me telling him I'd take it. Said he was tired of looking at his tools scattered around the garage.

The 5-10 is just as nice, almost perfect, never had the chain sharpened and looks like it may have only had a couple cuts done before being stored.

Both saws were stored dry, but they were full of fluid at one time. He said the boxes were nailed shut and look like they were never opened. His friend who gave the saws never even knew the boxes had saws in them, they were just heavy boxes taking up space.
 
... I'm still here, but am deep into replacing the bent crankshaft on the B&S - it was unfortunate enough to be attached to the mower, that was attached to the Mrs. who accidently tried to mow a stump. It is the only stump in the entire yard, and is quite obviously sticking up about 4" above grade and would require someone to raise and then drop the mower deck on it to get it into the blade; it has only taken a few hours to tear it down, and a measly $106.48 in parts are on the way, but I'm not upset... not at all... really... really, really...

Look on the bright side - you weren't on the mower and you only have one stump. ;) Ron
 
Watsonr, too cool for words. :clap: :clap: :clap: Ron
Couldn't agree more. Some may think you're joking about the shaking hands, I'm sure you mean it because mine would be shaking, too. That is just one of those finds you only hear about and don't believe could happen. But obviously, once in a while it does. Now the question on everyone's mind: Do you mind sharing what you paid? :monkey:
Congratulations! :cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
Pro mac 60 - high compression

I'm a newbie. I don't know much about chainsaws, and I haven't had time to read all 111 pages of this thread yet, so if I'm covering an old issue, please forgive me.

I came into possession of a McCulloch Pro Mac 60 is seemingly excellent condition and well stored.

Emptied the old gas (was mostly empty), washed it with new gas/oil mix (proportion unknown), poured it out, and filled it half way (in case the proportion is wrong, so I can still add gas).

Replaced the chain oil with SAE 30 Penzoil, not synthetic though. The cap says SEA 30 on it, so I figured that was OK. The oil I poured out was reddish. I hope it wasn't transmission fluid! Got the chain lubricated, and it moves smoothly manually.

Spark plug is clean as a whistle and has good contact and wire.

Ready to start.

Won't start, of course.

Rope pull is way tough. Figured the cylinder was dry.

Pulled out the spark plug, sprayed light oil in cylinder. (Is that a bad thing to do? I figured it would burn off soon enough.)

With plug out, rope pulls all the way out and cylinder moves easily.

With plug in, the pull is ridiculously hard and rope only comes out part way. I will break the rope if I keep it up.

Seems like the compression is way too high.

Found this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/175567.htm, which talks about some decompression valve sticking. Ahem, what's does a decompression valve do? Do I have one? Where is it?

Haven't taken the muffler off yet. Going out to do that now.

In the meantime, any ideas, anybody?

Is there any good description around here on how to do a drop start? I've seen it done but have never done it myself. Looks tricky.

Thank you for your kind attention.
 
... or you could just beat the crap outta it with a Homelite 150 (sorry Aaron, couldn't resist) and then throw the parts from both saws into your neighbor's yard!

:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

No need to say you're sorry when talking about beating a mm with a 150 Ted. Just pull the bar and clutch drum off of the 150 first (they can be used on E-Z saws) and do whatever the hell you want with the rest of it.............................as long as that doesn't involve sending it to me.:clap:
 
Pro Mac 60 - Duh

My first message hasn't appeared yet, so I can't edit it. (I'm a newbie so there was a message about it needing to be moderated first.)

I got the muffler off and low and behold, there was that oil I had sprayed in the spark plug hole. I guess that wasn't such a good idea. Should have sprayed it from the muffler side, huh? Oh, well. Let it sit, clean off the plug, and try again later.

Anyone know how to wash excess oil out of the cylinder? I could pour some gas in, I suppose... Then it will be flooded, but at least the gas will dry before the oil ever would. Should I do that?

As it turns out, a dry cylinder wasn't the problem anyway, of course. It was just plain old ignorance.

While I was fooling around with the muffler, I must have accidentally pushed in the red switch which I'd thought was a kill switch and had pulled out (It was red, after all.). And now the rope pulls just super as long as that switch is pushed in. So that red switch must be the decompression valve gizmo, just like they were talking about in that forum I linked to in my first message. And mine has the very same problem as in that link: if you even breath near it, it pops out. Great.

Sure looks like a super saw, though. Can't wait to try it.

Learning all on your own though trial and error is a b*tch.
 
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The Eager Beaver 2.0 lives again:msp_tongue:.........At least it idles and runs without the bar on it. That is as far as I have gotten with it today.
 
You Sir...are correct!

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My hands are still shaking, I can't believe I found it in this nice of shape. Needs wiped off, was drained of fluid in 1966, has two sets of points with it and a carb kit, 4 cans of two-cycle oil and two new chains. It's never been sharpened, not a scuff on the sharpening stone! Came with a 28" bar, Acres say that 24" was the longest supplied, but this is the original bar by the auto mac logo on the bar. And most of the original paperwork too.

Randy - If you send me a PM with your e-mail address I can forward a copy of the IPL, the only owners manual I have is a hard copy from customchainsawparts on e-bay; it is a photo copy but interesting in any case.

By the way, congratulations on a great find. If you need gaskets or diaphragms for the carburetor you should be able to get them from Discount Marine in MI. I should have a spare fuel pump if Sherwood doesn't still have them.

Mark
 
The Eager Beaver 2.0 lives again:msp_tongue:.........At least it idles and runs without the bar on it. That is as far as I have gotten with it today.

I'm sorry to hear that, kid. Better luck next time, chalk it up to experience, chin up, all that jazz.
 
Awesome find Randy. Tried to rep you but it won't let me.

I ran Mark's PB-1 It is like no saw I have ever run. Very very cool item.
 

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