McCulloch Chain Saws

[Deprime]

Mac Large Mount Bar Adapters

It's been a little slow at work so I've been working on making some bar adapters for using stihl (14mm slot) bars on my large mount Macs. The end pieces are bolts with the head and threads cut off with a 3/8" hole drilled through the center. The closest fit that I found was an M14 metric bolt. I still need to weld it up and cut it into bar width slices. After the pieces are welded I'll tack it to a piece of bar stock so I can clamp it in the jaws on the bandsaw while I cut it. I'll get some more pics up when I get them finished.

 

[Deprime]

Lookit what I just got:

Nice looking saw! And the owners manual to boot!

 

[8433jeff]

It's been a little slow at work so I've been working on making some bar adapters for using stihl (14mm slot) bars on my large mount Macs. The end pieces are bolts with the head and threads cut off with a 3/8" hole drilled through the center. The closest fit that I found was an M14 metric bolt. I still need to weld it up and cut it into bar width slices. After the pieces are welded I'll tack it to a piece of bar stock so I can clamp it in the jaws on the bandsaw while I cut it. I'll get some more pics up when I get them finished.

This may be a marketable idea, to a few of us, anyway.

 

[Eccentric]

I picked up a NOS 32" 10-series bar recently and was wondering if it has the right sprocket nose. The bar,chain, & accessory catalog that I have lists the sprocket nose but it does not have the bar listed. The nose is stamped PN 86831 and .404 .063 ga. The catalog lists this nose as .063/.058 (assuming that it is used for both guages?). The bar PN 86796 is not listed in my catalog. I tried fitting .050 chain in the groove and it feels a little loose to me. I don't have any .058 ga chain to try. The bar groove looks smaller than the groove in the nose so I don't think that it is an .063 ga bar. Anyone have a catalog that lists the part number for the bar so I can verify?

You don't have any .063G chain to try on the bar Bryon? If that's a .404 sprocket nose, then I hope that the bar is .063G afterall. .404/.058G is pretty hard to come by in the US.........at least when compared to .404/.063G. If it turns out to be .058G, then you may want to change out the sprocket nose for a .375 unit so you can run cheap/common .375/.058G chain.

It's been a little slow at work so I've been working on making some bar adapters for using stihl (14mm slot) bars on my large mount Macs. The end pieces are bolts with the head and threads cut off with a 3/8" hole drilled through the center. The closest fit that I found was an M14 metric bolt. I still need to weld it up and cut it into bar width slices. After the pieces are welded I'll tack it to a piece of bar stock so I can clamp it in the jaws on the bandsaw while I cut it. I'll get some more pics up when I get them finished.

This may be a marketable idea, to a few of us, anyway.

+1

That's pretty slick Bryon. Count me in when the time comes. I can't remember if the large frame Homelite bar studs are spaced the same width apart as large frame McCullochs. If they are, then you're helping Homelite guys too (as they also use 3/8" studs and a similar bar tail profile). If the spacing is different, then you'd be wise to develop a set for Homelites as well. I'll measure the spacing on my saws this weekend.

 

[Deprime]

You don't have any .063G chain to try on the bar Bryon? If that's a .404 sprocket nose, then I hope that the bar is .063G afterall. .404/.058G is pretty hard to come by in the US.........at least when compared to .404/.063G. If it turns out to be .058G, then you may want to change out the sprocket nose for a .375 unit so you can run cheap/common .375/.058G chain.

I have a few loops of .063 chain but they are currently at my parent's house. (Cutting up some trees over there right now.) I will try that this weekend when I get back over there. I probably do what you suggest and change out the nose to a 3/8 pitch if it turns out to be .058.

This may be a marketable idea, to a few of us, anyway.

That's pretty slick Bryon. Count me in when the time comes. I can't remember if the large frame Homelite bar studs are spaced the same width apart as large frame McCullochs. If they are, then you're helping Homelite guys too (as they also use 3/8" studs and a similar bar tail profile). If the spacing is different, then you'd be wise to develop a set for Homelites as well. I'll measure the spacing on my saws this weekend.

Hopefully they come out good. I thought about that too, making some for the Homelite mount. I have a few longer Homelite bars so I started with the McCulloch mount for now. Was the bar stud spacing the same on all the larger Homelites? I don't know. I'll have to measure the ones that I have to see if the spacing matches up.

I made an adapter a while back using a piece of plate steel but it was a PITA! I got to thinking about it the other day and came up with this idea. Hopefully they come out good. If they do I'll have to make some extras for those that are interested.

 

[bergman 501]

super 44A

anybody have any info on this saw? did a search but not much comes up. acres say's it has a mac carb but the one i have has a tilly hl 19? oiler is froze up and the handle bar support is broke, but has good spark and comp. it also has a removable head and is stamped 44A and #2387. any info would be app.

 

[briantutt]

10-10 A troubles

SO I took the 10-10 A out to the woods on Sat. When I tried to start it it about pulled my arm out of joint. I couldn't turn her over for anything. Today I am driving home and think "what would cause that, pull the plug and see if it turns" so I get home and do it, turns over like a charm. Then I notice oil coming out of the hole. Pulled it a few times, shoots oil out of the spark plug hole like it's a wann be' bar oiler?

WHAT the heck? :help:

 

[joeymt33]

SO I took the 10-10 A out to the woods on Sat. When I tried to start it it about pulled my arm out of joint. I couldn't turn her over for anything. Today I am driving home and think "what would cause that, pull the plug and see if it turns" so I get home and do it, turns over like a charm. Then I notice oil coming out of the hole. Pulled it a few times, shoots oil out of the spark plug hole like it's a wann be' bar oiler?

WHAT the heck? :help:

I've got a PM800 that was smoking terrible. I removed the spark plug and pulled on it and I also saw oil coming out of the plug hole. Mine turned out to be bar oil. I can't remember why it was doing that, I do remember that I took the auto oiler out and checked it over and then reinstalled it. It has never done it again. Is the oil you see, bar oil?


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[heimannm]

Deprime - most nose sprockets are .063, the rails on the bar may vary. I have a couple of similar 24" bars and both are .058.

bergman - go to Mike Acres site (Chain Saw Collectors Corner) and you will find a good deal of informtion on the Super 44A.

Brian / Joey - McCulloch used impulse operated automatic oilers for a lot of years. If the auto oiler diaphragm, gaskets, seals, etc. leak they can allow bar oil into the crank case and if it can get there, it will get in the cylinder as well. I have a couple of PM600 Series and a couple of Mini Macs that are really bad that way. If I leave the oil out of the MM until I'm ready to use it it is fine, but if it sets full of oil the saw will be hydro-locked.

Mark

 

[stinkbait]

SO I took the 10-10 A out to the woods on Sat. When I tried to start it it about pulled my arm out of joint. I couldn't turn her over for anything. Today I am driving home and think "what would cause that, pull the plug and see if it turns" so I get home and do it, turns over like a charm. Then I notice oil coming out of the hole. Pulled it a few times, shoots oil out of the spark plug hole like it's a wann be' bar oiler?

WHAT the heck? :help:

You have a leaking gasket under the auto oiler. The bar oil is getting past the gasket and finding its way through the pulse port in the bottom of the crankcase.

 

[briantutt]

Is the auto-oiler the thing inside the oil tank? I never even took that off or apart??? Do I just need to take the front off the oil tank to get at the problem?

 

[joeymt33]

you can take the front cover off, you won't miss it

 

[Deprime]

Mac Large Mount Bar Adapters

I got the parts welded together tonight and bead blasted. Hopefully I have some spare time tomorrow night at work and can finish it up.

On a side note I almost caught the shop on fire while welding tonight! I had one of my saws sitting on a piece of plastic with shop towels underneath to catch the leaking bar oil. I finished a weld and took my helmet off to find smoke billowing from underneath the saw. A piece of slag had landed on the shop towel and it started smoldering. Luckily it was just the towel and not the saw. I guess that will teach me to clean my area before welding!

On top of that I was walking back into the house after cleaning up and a walnut fell off of the black walnut tree and hit me in the head. Tonight is just not my night!! :bang:

 

[briantutt]

you can take the front cover off, you won't miss it

Thanks guys, i will pop the oil tank cover off then remove the pump and see what i can see.

 

[heimannm]

Brian - There is one screw holding the "top" of the pulse operated oil pump in place, and should be a metal retainer that springs in place at the bottom to hold it securely. It could be that the gasket/seal is bad (they are rather hard so don't be alarmed that it seems stiff) or just that the clip was not installed properly and let the bottom of the oil pump come loose.

Mark

 

[briantutt]

Okay, maybe this is the reason it was abandoned in a barn for 10 years

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[cowroy]

Do you guys know where I can get a carb kit for a LG-6 or 2-10g? I just can't get it to run right no matter how I adjust it. A link or website would be great. All along I have thought this saw was a 2-10g, but of all the pics I have seen of a 2-10g they have two posts where the top handle attaches, and the carb cover looks different, which leads me to believe it is an LG-6 cause the top handle on it only attaches at one place. What's your thoughts on this? Do they have the same carb? When I get this thing running right I don't think he will want to use it much especially when he finds out how slow it cuts and when I tell him how valuable the chain is that's on it. Some guys at the gtg this past weekend told me it was 1/2" chipper chain. Thanks for all your help.

 

[booger1286]

1-45 mcculloch

what can you guys tell me about the 1-45? Was it a good saw and have much power, and what do they usually go for in decent condition.

 

[Warped5]

what can you guys tell me about the 1-45? Was it a good saw and have much power, and what do they usually go for in decent condition.

Here is the Acres link ....

 

[heimannm]

The 1-45 and 1-45 were more advanced than the previous models as they were equipped with bearings in the wrist pin, earlier models just had bushings.

They are not real speed demons (that is an understatement) but they do have good torque and live a long time. I have some in that line that don't have 90 PSI compression but they will still run and cut.

Most 1-45 and 1-46 models came with the McCulloch (Walbro) flat back carburetor with primer. If you are not familiar with that carburetor click on McCulloch Carburetor link in my signature for some additional information. You can always swap it out to a Tillotson HL if you prefer.

Unless I found one in really great condition with everything working properly including the primer in the carburetor, $50 to $100 is about all I would go.

They are rather heavy, they will be loud, they are rather slow in the cut, but they just keep going and going...if it is your only saw and you depend on firewood to be warm maybe not, on the other hand when I was 20 through 26 or 27 years old I kept the family warm all winter with one old saw and a spare chain or two. I couldn't do it today but some young buck with a lot of time and energy certainly could.

Mark