McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

where does that leave the fixer/collector-in-denial???? I cut my own firewood and work around the house - if I used one saw per tree, I would clear my property! (well, if they were all running... that is the fixer part. I've got 5 dolkita concrete saws torn down to the bearings on the bench right now --- trying to get at least one keeper, and enjoying the hobby).

I would also put that as twice the fun. Of course, the fixer part carries quite a lot of frustration - for me at least. Ron

 

[8433jeff]

This looks a little better!

Yep. The old one looks like it went through the snowblower and the mulching lawnmower.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I have the opposite problem of what I'm reading here, my McCulloch 3-10 is oiling too much! It has oil running all over the clutch cover through the small gap between the cover and the block. Reckon I can turn it down some?

 

[heimannm]

Just remove the cover from the oil tank and turn the adjusting screw 1/2 turn clockwise. All you need is a screw driver, 11/32" wrench to loosen the lock nut, and 1/4" wrench to turn the screw.


Mark

 

[OldDeadWood]

Third Port Induction.

This was me first Bow Saw.

Gee, I hope someone is pondering the answere to my earlier question.

"Please explain what the Third Port Induction does, if anything, and how it works."

Thanks, Woody

 

[madhatte]

Got an idea I wanna run past you folks. If it's a dumb idea, I'd like to know before I get invested, you know?

So: I have this nice 1-40 with the 2-piece head, and the MC-6 article JJ posted. I have the hankering to port the thing per those instructions and put it in a 250 or something with a less frightening oiler than the 1-40 -- call me a sissy, but I don't much like having fingers moving around forward of the handle. As it sits, this 1-40 has the HL carb and a weird hoop for a choke lever. The boss for an oiler button is cast into the handle assembly but is not drilled. Maybe I should just drill it and install one? Anyway, just thinking aloud and looking for input. Seems like a no-brainer that the 2-piece head ought to have something done with it.

 

[8433jeff]

Its your saw hatter, and everything you said makes a heck of a lot of sense. Make it work!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Just remove the cover from the oil tank and turn the adjusting screw 1/2 turn clockwise. All you need is a screw driver, 11/32" wrench to loosen the lock nut, and 1/4" wrench to turn the screw.


Mark

Thanks, Mark. This thing oils enough for a 24" bar probably but it's only got a 16" one on it. I'll get out there next week and turn it down a bit. Thanks for the info.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Got an idea I wanna run past you folks. If it's a dumb idea, I'd like to know before I get invested, you know?

So: I have this nice 1-40 with the 2-piece head, and the MC-6 article JJ posted. I have the hankering to port the thing per those instructions and put it in a 250 or something with a less frightening oiler than the 1-40 -- call me a sissy, but I don't much like having fingers moving around forward of the handle. As it sits, this 1-40 has the HL carb and a weird hoop for a choke lever. The boss for an oiler button is cast into the handle assembly but is not drilled. Maybe I should just drill it and install one? Anyway, just thinking aloud and looking for input. Seems like a no-brainer that the 2-piece head ought to have something done with it.

I have a 1-40 and haven't had to move my hand around to oil the bar. Just mix the oil in the engine a little heavy and it'll oil the bar for you. I think that was their idea of an automatic oiler back then. I think the plunger is for if you need additional oil.

 

[madhatte]

Oh, yeah, I remember reading about that! What a weird idea. McC innovation is what makes them interesting.

 

[heimannm]

Keep in mind that the 1-40, 1-41, 1-42, and 1-43 did not have bearings on the upper end of the connecting rod, just bushings. That shouldn't keep you from doing what you plan, but you might not want to use that as a milling saw when you are done...

I have a D-30 with the Lubri-Mac system and I will say I would not trust it for any real cutting.

You are right though about the manual oiler being located at the front of the saw, rather unhandy and could pose a potential risk if your mind ever wandered.

View attachment 209674

Mark

 

[cbfarmall]

And I thought the Stihl Contra/090 had a poorly located manual oiler!! This sucker takes first prize!

Always wondered what that boss was I saw on some tank covers.

 

[madhatte]

Keep in mind that the 1-40, 1-41, 1-42, and 1-43 did not have bearings on the upper end of the connecting rod, just bushings. That shouldn't keep you from doing what you plan, but you might not want to use that as a milling saw when you are done...

I didn't know that -- thanks for the tip. Perhaps a crank/rod upgrade is in order while it's open?

 

[8433jeff]

I didn't know that -- thanks for the tip. Perhaps a crank/rod upgrade is in order while it's open?

Now you are just being ambitious. How much are you going to cut with the older girl?

 

[RandyMac]

Nate, save that relic for what it is. There are better saws to play with. Something from the 1-70 series or maybe older like a D44. The later versions of the 1-40/50s have potential.

 

[OldDeadWood]

A new day.

This was my first Bow Saw in the mid 50s. We heated our garage with a pot belly stove and didn't own a chainsaw.

I'd like to thank everyone who showed an interest in my first post, but I was hoping to spark some descussion on the subject of McCulloch's Third Port Induction, not just pointer to other threads.

I'm still hoping that some of you will jump in on this subject.

Thanks, Woody

View attachment 209794

 

[a. palmer jr.]

And I thought the Stihl Contra/090 had a poorly located manual oiler!! This sucker takes first prize!

Always wondered what that boss was I saw on some tank covers.

I don't really think that oiler was intended to be used that much. Mine gets plenty of oil for the bar without using it, especially if you mix the fuel according to what McCulloch wanted. I think it was either 16:1 or 20:1.

 

[OldDeadWood]

By the way, this is my second Bow Saw.[video]http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x467/OldWoodEye9/?action=view&current=MOV0250Bow.mp4[/video]

 

[madhatte]

Now you are just being ambitious. How much are you going to cut with the older girl?

Actually more interested in the engine itself. It's the only 2-piece head I have, and also very similar to the McC 6 described in the article JJ posted, so I'm more interested into going into the guts of the beast than I am the finished project.

Nate, save that relic for what it is. There are better saws to play with. Something from the 1-70 series or maybe older like a D44. The later versions of the 1-40/50s have potential.

I hear what you're sayin'. I could go either way; I haven't started cutting yet. Still, TWO-PIECE HEAD! I hear it calling. It wants me to learn ancient Yellow secrets.

 

[OldDeadWood]

Posts by a new junior member.

How long does it take for a moderator to clear new posts by a junior member like myself.