McCulloch Chain Saws

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Anybody know what this fits?

I bought a McCulloch bar at an auction last week but not sure what it fits, it's about 26" long or so. The McCulloch part number is: 94197ZA. It's old stock but it's never been used. I'm thinking it'll maybe fit a 700, 10-10 or something like that.
 
I bought a McCulloch bar at an auction last week but not sure what it fits, it's about 26" long or so. The McCulloch part number is: 94197ZA. It's old stock but it's never been used. I'm thinking it'll maybe fit a 700, 10-10 or something like that.

Some of us MacNuts could help faster if you could post pics, please .. especially the mount .. :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Some of us MacNuts could help faster if you could post pics, please .. especially the mount .. :hmm3grin2orange:

I thought maybe someone would have a list of part numbers. I'll try to get some pics but right now I'm staying in out of the rain...

While I was staying in I looked it up on Acres Site and the mount that's closest to it is the D276 McCulloch mount. Of course McCulloch used different mounts for some of their saws. I don't think that would fit on my 1-42 because of the bar adjuster. I may try it on a 6-10 and see how it does.
 
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I thought maybe someone would have a list of part numbers. I'll try to get some pics but right now I'm staying in out of the rain...

While I was staying in I looked it up on Acres Site and the mount that's closest to it is the D276 McCulloch mount. Of course McCulloch used different mounts for some of their saws. I don't think that would fit on my 1-42 because of the bar adjuster. I may try it on a 6-10 and see how it does.

Here's something handy to know .... if you go to the Oregon site and click over to the Professional side, locate the catalog and print off the page with the mount you select. The print is actual mount size and having this can come in handy.

Good luck!
 
So, I tore the 1-40 down last night, and WOW! is it fill of surprises.

First of all, I can finally add a correction to Acres' site that I haven't seen mentioned elsewhere: this saw does not have the 3rd port induction! Oh, it's cast into the block, alright, and there is a hole for it in the reed plate, but the holes in the cylinder wall were never drilled! Furthermore, the transfers only have 2 of three on each side drilled (the farthest two from the exhaust) and the exhaust doesn't have the center hole drilled! It's basically an unfinished block. I bet it's choked down to about half of its capacity. The fuel tank is interesting, too. I was wondering how the fuel/oil mixture was supposed to make it to the bar, and now I know. The tank's cap has no vent! So, as the case heats up from use, it pressurizes the fuel tank, which bleeds mix out behind the bar plate. There is a small nozzle in there that looks like a carb jet which I guess serves to spray it as a vapor and also to act as a calibrated orifice so the whole tank won't dump out through it. That big humped ridge between the carb box and the fuel tank, where logically an oil tank would go? Empty space! Also a PITA as I had to grind a relief in one corner to get the last bolt free to remove the top handle. Another surprise was the stuffer cast into the gas tank. It's big. I'm thinking that with the fuel and exhaust so restrained, McC engineers guessed a small case volume would at least let it rev relatively high, as it's sure not got the flow to make big torque.

Now I'm stumped on what to do with it. It would be relatively easy to drill out the intake and exhaust ports that don't currently exist, as the bosses are cast to guide a drill. The 3rd port would be more difficult, but could be done with a Dremel. It would take some doing to locate them correctly, though -- perhaps just line them up with the intake ports and grind out the barrier so they're all fed by the reed block? I'm also stumped on why they'd use a 2-piece head on an engine that's so critically limited. Makes more sense to me to cast a cheaper single-piece jug if they're not gonna finish the machine work. There are lots of other clues that this thing is unfinished, such as the plugged channel for an oil pump rod, the dummy tank up top, and the oil channel under the bar plate covered by a gasket.

Who was the intended audience for this thing? Surely it wasn't aimed at the pro market; they'd never stand for a de-tuned setup like this. The 33/35/39 family already existed for homeowners, and the 15 came soon after. What were they thinking with this design?
 
So, I tore the 1-40 down last night, and WOW! is it fill of surprises.

First of all, I can finally add a correction to Acres' site that I haven't seen mentioned elsewhere: this saw does not have the 3rd port induction! Oh, it's cast into the block, alright, and there is a hole for it in the reed plate, but the holes in the cylinder wall were never drilled! Furthermore, the transfers only have 2 of three on each side drilled (the farthest two from the exhaust) and the exhaust doesn't have the center hole drilled! It's basically an unfinished block. I bet it's choked down to about half of its capacity. The fuel tank is interesting, too. I was wondering how the fuel/oil mixture was supposed to make it to the bar, and now I know. The tank's cap has no vent! So, as the case heats up from use, it pressurizes the fuel tank, which bleeds mix out behind the bar plate. There is a small nozzle in there that looks like a carb jet which I guess serves to spray it as a vapor and also to act as a calibrated orifice so the whole tank won't dump out through it. That big humped ridge between the carb box and the fuel tank, where logically an oil tank would go? Empty space! Also a PITA as I had to grind a relief in one corner to get the last bolt free to remove the top handle. Another surprise was the stuffer cast into the gas tank. It's big. I'm thinking that with the fuel and exhaust so restrained, McC engineers guessed a small case volume would at least let it rev relatively high, as it's sure not got the flow to make big torque.

Now I'm stumped on what to do with it. It would be relatively easy to drill out the intake and exhaust ports that don't currently exist, as the bosses are cast to guide a drill. The 3rd port would be more difficult, but could be done with a Dremel. It would take some doing to locate them correctly, though -- perhaps just line them up with the intake ports and grind out the barrier so they're all fed by the reed block? I'm also stumped on why they'd use a 2-piece head on an engine that's so critically limited. Makes more sense to me to cast a cheaper single-piece jug if they're not gonna finish the machine work. There are lots of other clues that this thing is unfinished, such as the plugged channel for an oil pump rod, the dummy tank up top, and the oil channel under the bar plate covered by a gasket.

Who was the intended audience for this thing? Surely it wasn't aimed at the pro market; they'd never stand for a de-tuned setup like this. The 33/35/39 family already existed for homeowners, and the 15 came soon after. What were they thinking with this design?

I would say that the only thing that makes sense is to rebuild it as stock. It is never going to be a racer. Plus, I would think the lube method is a safety hazard and a environmental hazard as well. A Super 44A is a much better saw to do performance mods on, and they are relatively cheap. If you want one let me know, as I have 3 or 4 complete saws that are not running. They are 87cc's and they have the removable head.
 
I would say that the only thing that makes sense is to rebuild it as stock. It is never going to be a racer. Plus, I would think the lube method is a safety hazard and a environmental hazard as well. A Super 44A is a much better saw to do performance mods on, and they are relatively cheap. If you want one let me know, as I have 3 or 4 complete saws that are not running. They are 87cc's and they have the removable head.

Back when that saw was made they didn't make environment such a big deal, I think Hilary was still in school.
 
1-40 Induction Port.

It would be interesting to know the power difference between your 1-40 with no induction port and a later model that might have an induction port. I am still trying to find out if there is any reason to have an induction port.
 
I would say that the only thing that makes sense is to rebuild it as stock. It is never going to be a racer. Plus, I would think the lube method is a safety hazard and a environmental hazard as well. A Super 44A is a much better saw to do performance mods on, and they are relatively cheap. If you want one let me know, as I have 3 or 4 complete saws that are not running. They are 87cc's and they have the removable head.

I think you're probably right. Been poring over McBob's site for clues to this thing, and what I'm finding is that there were a bajillion versions of this engine and it's nothing extra-special. Also I think the big dummy space up top is the unfinished casting for the recoil on a D33, which also explains the teeth on the underside of the flywheel. Again, this thing just seems unfinished, like the whole 1-40 model is just put together from the scraps of a dozen other models.

Might just have to take you up on that Super 44A -- I've never seen one, and anything new is ripe for learning.

OldDeadWood: I'm looking right now for a description of the principles behind the 3rd port; I'd write one myself but I want to make sure I don't mess anything up.
 
So, I tore the 1-40 down last night, and WOW! is it fill of surprises.

First of all, I can finally add a correction to Acres' site that I haven't seen mentioned elsewhere: this saw does not have the 3rd port induction! Oh, it's cast into the block, alright, and there is a hole for it in the reed plate, but the holes in the cylinder wall were never drilled! Furthermore, the transfers only have 2 of three on each side drilled (the farthest two from the exhaust) and the exhaust doesn't have the center hole drilled! It's basically an unfinished block. I bet it's choked down to about half of its capacity. The fuel tank is interesting, too. I was wondering how the fuel/oil mixture was supposed to make it to the bar, and now I know. The tank's cap has no vent! So, as the case heats up from use, it pressurizes the fuel tank, which bleeds mix out behind the bar plate. There is a small nozzle in there that looks like a carb jet which I guess serves to spray it as a vapor and also to act as a calibrated orifice so the whole tank won't dump out through it. That big humped ridge between the carb box and the fuel tank, where logically an oil tank would go? Empty space! Also a PITA as I had to grind a relief in one corner to get the last bolt free to remove the top handle. Another surprise was the stuffer cast into the gas tank. It's big. I'm thinking that with the fuel and exhaust so restrained, McC engineers guessed a small case volume would at least let it rev relatively high, as it's sure not got the flow to make big torque.

Now I'm stumped on what to do with it. It would be relatively easy to drill out the intake and exhaust ports that don't currently exist, as the bosses are cast to guide a drill. The 3rd port would be more difficult, but could be done with a Dremel. It would take some doing to locate them correctly, though -- perhaps just line them up with the intake ports and grind out the barrier so they're all fed by the reed block? I'm also stumped on why they'd use a 2-piece head on an engine that's so critically limited. Makes more sense to me to cast a cheaper single-piece jug if they're not gonna finish the machine work. There are lots of other clues that this thing is unfinished, such as the plugged channel for an oil pump rod, the dummy tank up top, and the oil channel under the bar plate covered by a gasket.

Who was the intended audience for this thing? Surely it wasn't aimed at the pro market; they'd never stand for a de-tuned setup like this. The 33/35/39 family already existed for homeowners, and the 15 came soon after. What were they thinking with this design?

I believe the 1-40 thru 1-40 were direct drive homeowner/farmer market saws. McCulloch 200 and Mac 15 saws both share porting layouts like what you describe (but are not removeable head engines) and were aimed at that same market later. The 33/35/39 saws were gear drives of course. The 1-40 family and 200 were competition for the C-5/51/52. The Mac 15 was competition for the Homelite Buz/500 and the Mono/Wards WD47 saws of the time period.

I would say that the only thing that makes sense is to rebuild it as stock. It is never going to be a racer. Plus, I would think the lube method is a safety hazard and a environmental hazard as well. A Super 44A is a much better saw to do performance mods on, and they are relatively cheap. If you want one let me know, as I have 3 or 4 complete saws that are not running. They are 87cc's and they have the removable head.

Good advice JP.
 
I thought maybe someone would have a list of part numbers. I'll try to get some pics but right now I'm staying in out of the rain...

While I was staying in I looked it up on Acres Site and the mount that's closest to it is the D276 McCulloch mount. Of course McCulloch used different mounts for some of their saws. I don't think that would fit on my 1-42 because of the bar adjuster. I may try it on a 6-10 and see how it does.

If it's a D276 mount, then it'll fit your 6-10 but not your 1-42. D276 mounts are discontinued, but D176 Poulan/Echo mount bars will work fine on a D276 mount McCulloch (and are still in production). The D276 mount bars only have oil passages from the adjuster holes to the bar rail slots. D176 bars have these same passages, as well as a couple other holes that you can just ignore...
 
If it's a D276 mount, then it'll fit your 6-10 but not your 1-42. D276 mounts are discontinued, but D176 Poulan/Echo mount bars will work fine on a D276 mount McCulloch (and are still in production). The D276 mount bars only have oil passages from the adjuster holes to the bar rail slots. D176 bars have these same passages, as well as a couple other holes that you can just ignore...

Thanks for the info. I had a chance to buy 6 of these bars for about $9 each. I just bought one but after I walked away I realized what an idiot I am for not buying all of them. Some were bigger than the 26-28 inch one I bought. I was kinda saving my money to buy some chainsaws later in the day.
I knew it wouldn't work on the 1-42 because of the adjustment apparatus. Looks to me that the only thing that will work on a 1-42 is one made just for that series saw. It's already got a good bar on it but it's small and kinda old fashioned looking.
 
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Thanks for the info. I had a chance to buy 6 of these bars for about $9 each. I just bought one but after I walked away I realized what an idiot I am for not buying all of them. Some were bigger than the 26-28 inch one I bought. I was kinda saving my money to buy some chainsaws later in the day.
I knew it wouldn't work on the 1-42 because of the adjustment apparatus. Looks to me that the only thing that will work on a 1-42 is one made just for that series saw. It's already got a good bar on it but it's small and kinda old fashioned looking.

NINE BUCKS EACH? Crikey. Too bad you couldn't buy them all. I can understand wanting to keep the $$$ in reserve for the saw auctions. Were they hardnose, sprocket tip, or roller nose? Guess it don't matter now. Put up a pic of whatcha got.
 
madhatte: Thanks for the interest in my question. If you find an exact location for some good information on McCulloch's Third Port Induction I'd apreciate you pointing me towards that info.

Thanks, Woody
 
Need a little help from you Mac Heads, I've got a Pro Mac 850 that has a slightly scored piston in it, not real bad but I feel better buying a new piston kit. I understand these saws have a series A, B, or C piston in them and the cylinder should be marked, BUT EXACTLY
WHERE IS IT MARKED? TIA for help........
 
Need a little help from you Mac Heads, I've got a Pro Mac 850 that has a slightly scored piston in it, not real bad but I feel better buying a new piston kit. I understand these saws have a series A, B, or C piston in them and the cylinder should be marked, BUT EXACTLY
WHERE IS IT MARKED? TIA for help........

It's usually marked on the cylinder, next to the decomp valve and spark plug (closest to the operator). 'B' cylinders are sometimes unmarked. The 'A' pistons are 92518. 'B' pistons are 92519. 'C' pistons are 92520. I know a fellow here who has the 'C' piston assembly that I just sent back to him. I also know a guy on another site (who I got my 'A' piston assembly from) who has 'B' piston assemblies for sale. PM me if you'd like to contact either of these folks.
 
I believe the 1-40 thru 1-40 were direct drive homeowner/farmer market saws. McCulloch 200 and Mac 15 saws both share porting layouts like what you describe (but are not removeable head engines) and were aimed at that same market later. The 33/35/39 saws were gear drives of course..

That makes sense. Hard keeping the timeline straight!
 
It's usually marked on the cylinder, next to the decomp valve and spark plug (closest to the operator). 'B' cylinders are sometimes unmarked. The 'A' pistons are 92518. 'B' pistons are 92519. 'C' pistons are 92520. I know a fellow here who has the 'C' piston assembly that I just sent back to him. I also know a guy on another site (who I got my 'A' piston assembly from) who has 'B' piston assemblies for sale. PM me if you'd like to contact either of these folks.

Thanks, I did find a closed down Mac dealer not far from here that has bunches of parts left and I'm gonna hit his stash.
 
madhatte: Thanks for the interest in my question. If you find an exact location for some good information on McCulloch's Third Port Induction I'd apreciate you pointing me towards that info.

Thanks, Woody

I don't totally understand it myself...

AN EXPLANATION OF THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN 3RD PORT DESIGN AND 9 PORT

rearenginekarts.com • View topic - McCulloch Blocks & Port Design?

McCulloch 3rd port ..................... UPDATED 28-8-08 .....

I just know those who came later tried to get rid of it.
 
NINE BUCKS EACH? Crikey. Too bad you couldn't buy them all. I can understand wanting to keep the $$$ in reserve for the saw auctions. Were they hardnose, sprocket tip, or roller nose? Guess it don't matter now. Put up a pic of whatcha got.

The one I got was sprocket tip, the replaceable kind. They had some hard nose 30 some inch ones that were also nine bucks. I guess I should have bought them all even if I was running low on cash. I realized my mistake almost immediately but by then it was too late. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow of the bar and maybe the saws if the weather cooperates.
 
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