McCulloch Chain Saws

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Hi Brian -
When you take that oiler off of there (hopefully all the hold-down screws will be there), check the diaphragm. When they get old and lose flexibility, the oiler ceases all function. It should also be noted that this oiler is impulse-driven, so that passage may be plugged as well.
 
As of other Mac news, the 850 is being mean to me as of late... it just refuses to start despite trying different settings on the screws and such... it barked on the third pull with choke, and absolutely refused to do so again, by repeatedly flooding the cylinder, regardless of the choke being pushed all the way back in... so did lots of that routine de-foul the plug and dump the few ounces of gas out of the cylinder and it still will not start... this is now the third time it has done this to me, making me spend about an hour trying to get it to go again. Yes, it has oodles and oodles of compression, and it's getting gas... If it fired right away when I first pulled it off of its resting place on the bench, then could it be that the plug is so fouled out that it needs to be completely cleaned or replaced?


Mark, pm headed your way...

Sounds to me like you need to crack open that carb and clean it out. Bet there's some crap in the needle/seat area that's keeping things from closing off when needed.
 
Hi Brian -
When you take that oiler off of there (hopefully all the hold-down screws will be there), check the diaphragm. When they get old and lose flexibility, the oiler ceases all function. It should also be noted that this oiler is impulse-driven, so that passage may be plugged as well.

I took the oiler off a week or so ago and the diaphragm was toast. I got a new one and cleaned the whole assembly up. No improvement. I thought for sure the thing was oiling out the side of the oiler instead of the exit hole because there is oily sawdust in that area. No dice however...I also have the 10-10A on the bench for the same reason so this weekend I started in on the Titan 50, after that thing the oiler problems will seem like an annoying paper-cut on a relative scale. That Titan is goofed up design that's for sure. I did notice one thing after looking at the PM650. The engine seems to be almost identical to the 10-10A, why would they ever take the 10-10A and make it the akward feeling PM650 out of it? I realy like how the 10-10A feels and with the new rings it has real good power, the PM650 is doggy piece of crap compared to it and heavier I think. (yeah I know it's probably my carb settings).
 
well it turns out that the Titan 57 i picked up has a bad coil. this is the same saw that is super clean and has over 200psi compression. i just did a mild port job on it and replaced all the fuel and oiler lines just to find out that the spark is intermitent. anyone know where i can find a coil? part # 223068
 
I took the oiler off a week or so ago and the diaphragm was toast. I got a new one and cleaned the whole assembly up. No improvement. I thought for sure the thing was oiling out the side of the oiler instead of the exit hole because there is oily sawdust in that area. No dice however...I also have the 10-10A on the bench for the same reason so this weekend I started in on the Titan 50, after that thing the oiler problems will seem like an annoying paper-cut on a relative scale. That Titan is goofed up design that's for sure. I did notice one thing after looking at the PM650. The engine seems to be almost identical to the 10-10A, why would they ever take the 10-10A and make it the akward feeling PM650 out of it? I realy like how the 10-10A feels and with the new rings it has real good power, the PM650 is doggy piece of crap compared to it and heavier I think. (yeah I know it's probably my carb settings).

IMHO, it is and it is. Shop monkey don't like it, but, meh.
 
Joey - that module is made by SEM, I wonder if you can post the numbers in some of the other threads (Jonsered, Poulan, etc.) and someone may recognize it from another saw.

I wouldn't mind finding a spare as well, I have a Titan 50 (same coil) that I might be able to make into a runner. O.K. I'll be honest I already have a spare but the way these fail, I'd like to have a back up to my back up...

8433jeff can get you a NOS one if it comes to it.

Mark
 
Joey - that module is made by SEM, I wonder if you can post the numbers in some of the other threads (Jonsered, Poulan, etc.) and someone may recognize it from another saw.

I wouldn't mind finding a spare as well, I have a Titan 50 (same coil) that I might be able to make into a runner. O.K. I'll be honest I already have a spare but the way these fail, I'd like to have a back up to my back up...

8433jeff can get you a NOS one if it comes to it.

Mark

the part number i supplied is the mcculloch part number. what is the part number on the coil? that would probably be the way to find it. good thought, thanks
 
I took the oiler off a week or so ago and the diaphragm was toast. I got a new one and cleaned the whole assembly up. No improvement. I thought for sure the thing was oiling out the side of the oiler instead of the exit hole because there is oily sawdust in that area. No dice however...I also have the 10-10A on the bench for the same reason so this weekend I started in on the Titan 50, after that thing the oiler problems will seem like an annoying paper-cut on a relative scale. That Titan is goofed up design that's for sure. I did notice one thing after looking at the PM650. The engine seems to be almost identical to the 10-10A, why would they ever take the 10-10A and make it the akward feeling PM650 out of it? I realy like how the 10-10A feels and with the new rings it has real good power, the PM650 is doggy piece of crap compared to it and heavier I think. (yeah I know it's probably my carb settings).

Marketing as a modern design. Ron
 
Kyle - When you get the S44A apart, have a look at the number on the crankshaft. I know I have a few in a box in the attic, not sure if any came from the S44A or not...

I'm only looking for a small donation...


Mark

Sounds good to me!! I'll have to clear up some space for two more projects... (one is a string trimmer for one of the guys that gave me some saws...)

Sounds to me like you need to crack open that carb and clean it out. Bet there's some crap in the needle/seat area that's keeping things from closing off when needed.

Thanks for the lead... I was thinking I would have to skip over the 'mexican' carb rebuild and actually buy a kit for it... we'll see if cleaning it out a little fixes it.

IMHO, it is and it is. Shop monkey don't like it, but, meh.

I never said it's really the best saw, but from my experience of using one, it's exactly what most people want... reliable, and damn near impossible to break. Here's the thing manufacturers strive for... of course some did better than others, and some did real well balancing out the three...

1. Reliability/power/torque
2. Light weight
3. Low cost

Pick two, that's what you normally get 95% of the time...

Marketing as a modern design. Ron

Yep... funny how 'modern' designs can be so much more of a cluster#### (he he... I like that 'Highway' movie...) than the old proven ways... take most new cars for example... try finding the oil filter on some of them... :dizzy:
 
Pick two, that's what you normally get 95% of the time...



take most new cars for example... try finding the oil filter on some of them... :dizzy:

Just learned that lesson. A few weeks ago, my youngest daughter and I took her Jeep in for an oil change. We watched the techs scratch their heads abit before they reached in and pulled a canister-less filter from the top of the engine. I would still be looking for it. And, of course, they didn't have one in stock. Ron
 
Just so happens I found a note I made with the numbers - anyone out there recognize this?

SEM Type 38
809 201 68

Thanks,

Mark

I appreciate those numbers, I just found out that the kill switch is the problem. With the spark plug out and the kill in the on position I get spark. With the kill in the off position there is no spark. I put the plug back in and it will run intermittently, and cut out. It won't run solid for 2 seconds. so I pulled the kill switch wire from the coil and it runs great. Thanks again for the help, I've kept those coil numbers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just learned that lesson. A few weeks ago, my youngest daughter and I took her Jeep in for an oil change. We watched the techs scratch their heads abit before they reached in and pulled a canister-less filter from the top of the engine. I would still be looking for it. And, of course, they didn't have one in stock. Ron

Makes you wonder, doesn't it?

They're making it harder for us tech/mechanics to do the job or get to the part or even find the part...

I think it has a lot to do with the manufacturers trying to get people to stop doing their own oil changes and such... the other part is cost and stuff like that...

I hate those internal canister-less filters... it's a mess every time you do an oil change on something with one of those... I remember when my neighbor changed the one in his Honda quad... there is a lot of oil sitting inside of that filter area even after you drain the oil from the pan... so... drip, drip, pull cover, SPLASH!! Well, maybe not so dramatically but you get the idea. It's messier than the old canister filter way of doing it.

Yep, they'll never have a filter like that in stock... plus they can rake more money in off of customers by putting a little shipping price on the part... even if it comes from the NAPA or Carquest right by you...
 
Makes you wonder, doesn't it?

They're making it harder for us tech/mechanics to do the job or get to the part or even find the part...

I think it has a lot to do with the manufacturers trying to get people to stop doing their own oil changes and such... the other part is cost and stuff like that...

I hate those internal canister-less filters... it's a mess every time you do an oil change on something with one of those... I remember when my neighbor changed the one in his Honda quad... there is a lot of oil sitting inside of that filter area even after you drain the oil from the pan... so... drip, drip, pull cover, SPLASH!! Well, maybe not so dramatically but you get the idea. It's messier than the old canister filter way of doing it.

Yep, they'll never have a filter like that in stock... plus they can rake more money in off of customers by putting a little shipping price on the part... even if it comes from the NAPA or Carquest right by you...

My Car filter is like this, I take plastic grocery bag hold it right up by the filter housing and just pull it out and move to bag. No drips in anything.
 
if anyone does find a lead on SEM coils go ahead and post. i had to rig my jonsered (solder, tape, 'liquid tape') and there isn't another COTS coil to be found, apparently. it runs for now...
 
hey guys im looking for a mac diaphragm 28696a. its for my 73 so i know a little tricky. but mine is missing. not just bad but gone. i think this is why it was in the questionable pile at the echo shop. need it regardless. would also by interested in a carcass with the diaphragm assembly on it... thanks josh
 
The saga continues.

I thought I'd throw in another instalation of my McCulloch journey.
attachment.php

View attachment 211396

My second McCulloch was this 110. I bought it from a guy at a flea market for ten bucks. This saw is enough to make someone never buy another McCulloch. It runs when it feels like and doesn't run most of the time. I worked on the carb, spark, fuel lines, fuel tank, fuel filter, on off switch, muffler, and everything else a dozen times or more. When I broke the return coil spring I stopped trying to fix it.

attachment.php


After some time passed, I came across some maple that was to big to reach through, from both sides, with my 3.7/20" bar so I cut it as much as possible and then nibbled the center with my two man hand saw. At that point I desided I wanted a bigger saw. Not a longer bar, a bigger saw. So I purchased the 840 you see above.

After a 60cc Sears, a 60cc Eager Beaver, and a 110 that wouldn't run this was a scarry saw. It came with a 9/16" chain on a 36" Roller Nose bar and it pulled me into the log like I weighed 75 pounds and threw chipcs like you would make with a hand plaine. I love it. But I wanted to save the chain and the roller nose so I put on a sprocket nose and a .404 chain. It still cuts like crazy but there isn't enough big wood around here to get much time on it.
View attachment 211397

The Video below is a cut in some Willow. I said the big wood pickings are slim around here.

840 Video:[video]http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x467/OldWoodEye9/?action=view&current=MOV0840McC.mp4[/video]
 
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