McCulloch Chain Saws

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Mark, I don't have any info but I will of course be following your posts. I wish I had a source for the coarse thread DSP valves for you but I don't. I just use the boot strap for my non-dsp 800s - a little inconvenient but probably the safest way to start them. Ron
 
I talked a bit about this saw before. I was informed of it by fellow AS member manyhobbies and bought it over the phone the same day. Dan picked it up for me (in June) and I finally got around to passing by his place in November.

Once I got it home, I noticed it didn't seem to oil properly, and in the process of diagnosing/repairing I managed to dump oil all over it. I decided I might as well go ahead and give it a good cleaning so I stripped it down completely and noticed the exhaust and intake ports both looked a bit rough. In for a penny, in for a pound so I took it down all the way and cleaned and polished the ports a bit.

I was still struggling with the oiler this week and noticed that the pick up line had a very thick "flange" where it sets under the manual pump that seemed to be sealing off the check valve (disc). I found another oil line with the thin flange and low and behold the oiler now works like it should.

Anyone out there know the story on the oil lines (thick vs. thin flange) and the gaskets as one has a smaller hole that seems to seat the flange quite nicely, the original has a much larger hole that looks as though it would let the flange float a bit.

I will try to get some additional photo's posted up when time permits. I will say that starting this saw with no compression release beyond the Q port requires effort combined with attention.

Mark

Mark, I don't have any info but I will of course be following your posts. I wish I had a source for the coarse thread DSP valves for you but I don't. I just use the boot strap for my non-dsp 800s - a little inconvenient but probably the safest way to start them. Ron

I know a limping PM800 owner near me that'd be very interested in those coarse thread DSP valves if you fellers find any.
 
I have a PM55 somewhere, didn't do much more than take out of the box.
I think it is in pretty fair shape.

I got one of those for $20 at a flea market, 24" bar and chain. I asked the woman what she wanted for it..she said it was her husband's saw but he sold his mini-mac and an old poulan for $20 so she thought that might be a good price for the PM55. I didn't argue with her.
 
I got one of those for $20 at a flea market, 24" bar and chain. I asked the woman what she wanted for it..she said it was her husband's saw but he sold his mini-mac and an old poulan for $20 so she thought that might be a good price for the PM55. I didn't argue with her.

That was a damn good deal. Basically the same saw as a 10-10S.................and those seem to be getting good money lately.
 
The four Mac's I have now are the SP81, 10-10A, and a gear drive right hand start variant of the 10-10 probably a 2-10G, and a beat up PM610. If someone comes by and purchases a Stihl 025 I have for sale I will be adding a Partner P100 which is the same as a McCulloch 1000 and a PM55. I was talking about the original video of you cutting with your 850, I could not find it on youtube.
Photo0063.jpg

[video=youtube;0Q1s9PQ8oz0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Q1s9PQ8oz0[/video]

You talking about this one?

10-10A... that sounds like something everyone should own... (except for those that don't understand these things need mixed gas...
bulgy-eyes.png
 
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That saw is running fat fat fat!! Looks good in that big log.

Yeah it sounds like it is 4 stroking in the cut. I drank a whole cup of coffee watching you make that first cut.

This is the way you want to cut through a big log. This saw wasn't even running right.

[video=youtube;imVCsFHAx-g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imVCsFHAx-g[/video]
 
That saw is running fat fat fat!! Looks good in that big log.

Yep... breaking her in. I can be quite overcautious when it comes to this, but geez it sure seems to have paid off... this thing has insane compression, so I guess I did real good!!

Yeah it sounds like it is 4 stroking in the cut. I drank a whole cup of coffee watching you make that first cut.

This is the way you want to cut through a big log. This saw wasn't even running right.

[video=youtube;imVCsFHAx-g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imVCsFHAx-g[/video]

Yeah... now that thing's cooking pretty good!!

The 850 cuts a whole lot stronger and faster now that I run her much leaner than the video I posted... remember this video was made some time ago and was the first bit of work the 850 ever had to do, so I wanted to avoid running her too hot and too hard and causing a problem. Never had a problem with her until recently with the carb issue which was a result of the fuel filter falling off a while later, before I did too much cutting with it.

Now I got an oiler issue...

Clogged oiler? Is that typical of these saws? (I assume it's typical of any saw) The manual and automatic oilers are not working... She did fine the last time I had her out cutting. I do have regular old school Oregon bar and chain lube in there... it's tacky but not really thick enough to be a problem in these temps... it pours well.

One more question... is there supposed to be some kind of filter or screen on the pickup line in the bar oil tank? I know for a fact that the 850 didn't and still doesn't have a filter on the oil pickup line.

Sorry guys, guess the 850 just didn't want to make noodles today.

So... the affectionately known and loved "Ugly, loud, and heavy yellow *******" came out to work today. Made noodles with that one... Didn't bother to make a video since most don't give much of a rip about the lead assed yellow cinder blocks... I still love mine anyhow and it's not that much trouble to swing it around.


Keep reading if you wish to. Not gonna make you read everything. It's simply a tourist's guide to my planned adventures regarding some stuff. Like yellow stuff...

Still have some big rounds of maple that I can do test cuts on with the 790 when I get around to finishing that. Speaking of which, I got a check to cash and then we'll see about that place for boring the cylinder sometime tomorrow...

Next thing to get would be some spare chains for the 28" bar on the 850 (have a local shop that I'm getting to know the guy that runs it... he said he'll sell me chain and bars for a better price) and a carb kit for the McFlatback that is destined to fuel 6 cubes of raw power...
 
There should be a brass screen in the oil pick up line. If anyone has a trick to replacing/exchanging them I'd love to hear it. I have several NOS lines and screens and they really don't want to go together too neatly.

Mark

Try warming up the rubber line a bit to make it softer. A safe way would be to use some fishing line to suspend it from a wooden spoon or dowel laying accross a pot of boiling water for a minute or less. That'd keep it off the bottom so it isn't melted. That's how I used to temper glass filled nylon model airplane props. The instructions that came with the new props (Master Airscrew) spelled it out.
 
For the Mini Mac lovers out there -

I was poking around youtube and I found this Saw-King video. I found it kind of interesting. People complain about the mini macs being hard to work on, but he makes it look pretty easy. Except when he has a little trouble removing the cylinder, lol.

[video=youtube;v617PsVhZB4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=v617PsVhZB4[/video]
 
For the Mini Mac lovers out there -

I was poking around youtube and I found this Saw-King video. I found it kind of interesting. People complain about the mini macs being hard to work on, but he makes it look pretty easy. Except when he has a little trouble removing the cylinder, lol.

Aaron's gonna be watching this clip over and over and over ....

... and all the time muttering to himself "It's just not this easy, it's just not this easy ..... "

:yoyo:
 

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