hello
can someome tell me how to the get to the reed block on the 250 without disassembling the whole saw.
i tryed to remove the handle / air box but there appears to be 2 screws coming up from the bottom
that i cant get to yet. do i need to remove the oil tank first ?
There are 4 bolts that hold the air box on. Two in the air box itself and another two under the oil tank, plus one bolt at the handle and lower brace. I think the two screws you are seeing are the ones holding the reeds on. You will need to at least take the oil tank off. Oh and on some there is another bolt going through the air box into the case cover.
Yep. You have to remove the fuel tank front cover to get to some of the oil tank bolts. Also have to remove the oil tank top half to get at the mounting screws within. Then you can remove the oil tank and reach those two "hidden" carb box bolts. You also have to remove the flywheel cover to get to the bolt that goes into the side of the carb box. These damn front tank Macs are well packaged..................but they go together like a chinese puzzle. The top tank Macs are much easier to work on for the most part. At least McCulloch used beefy screws and a robust gasket for the fuel tank front cover. C/XP series Homelites are easier to work on than front tank Macs..........................except for the fuel tank assembly. While it's easier (on the Homelites) to remove as a unit (no gaskets, just six bolts IIRC), the tank itself is held together with a buncha wimpy little screws and is sealed with a spindly gasket that likes to leak. No saw design is perfect....
Struggle - It's certainly a 35 as it has the large air filter. There should be a model number stamped somewhere in the vicinity of the fuel cap, could be a 35 or a 35A, I am not sure how to distinguish the two.
They have a very interesting carburetor set up. I do have several of the gaskets and diaphragms for the 33/35 Series if you find you need something. There was a very good post regarding the basic carburetor adjustments for the 33/35 saws, not sure exactly what to search on but worth some digging for sure.
I've searched my computer and can't find that I've saved it electronically.
Mark
I have a 35A, plus a 35 parts saw. With parts taken from the 35 donor plus some gaskets and seals, it'll be a good runner again. That project is WAY down the priority list. If I end up sending the mess to Brian (he'd have a big shipping bill), then it'll be his problem. Otherwise, I'll probably be contacting you to arrange a deal on some gaskets and diaphragms for the damn thing at some point. May be another year or two the way I'm going....
Thanks Mark, I knew you would have an idea of where to go with it. It will be a while before I try anything with it. I might clean the surface for shelf pruposes for now. It for sure will make a conversation peice in the mean time.
Pretty dang heavy for 54ccs. It does have a 20" bar on it. Not sure how well it would do with it though.
My 35A had a 25 inch "Flying Goose" bar and a loop of 1/2" full comp chipper chain when I got it. I had it running briefly (before the carb diaphragm died). Seemed to have absolutely no problem pulling that bar, and would likely pull far more. It's SLOW however. These saws have a 4/1 gearbox. Trading speed for torque. I traded that bar and chain plus some cash for my first Homelite C-5, which Jeff now owns. I'll be putting the 20" B/C (with 1/2" chipper) from my parts 35 onto the 35A.
Struggle
In the middle of this video I throw as much weight against me 35 Bow to see what it will do.
This is some big .404 chain.
35 Bow[video]http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x467/OldWoodEye9/?action=view¤t=MOV035Bow.mp4[/video]
A 20" bar should be no trouble.
Woody.
Woody that saw sounds great. .404 chain eh? I've never seen one of these with .404 chain. Just 1/2". Somebody may have chainged out the sprocket. These saws were sold for a long time too (well after McCulloch had 'newer' designs in the lineup). Maybe some were sold with .404.
Nice that saw has a nice sound to it. I just hope this one has a good cylinder
I see pistons, rings, and engine gaskets for these on feebay quite often. Carb and fuel pump diaphragms (the pump is within the fuel tank, under the engine) come up from time to time too. There's an NOS cylinder (with base gasket) on feebay right now.
Just bought a 35 today for $15 and it came with a pull start for my homelite also.
It runs alright going to clean the tank and this funky carb deal, and should be good. Also had the 20" mcculloch bar with the flying geese on it
Can anyone break down how it drives the chain the way the motor sits, Im guessing some sort of plantairy gear set?
It has a bevel gear drive. That turns the power flow 90degrees. The crankshaft has the clutch on the end of it, and the complete gearbox bolts to the front of the saw.
Anyone that needs the IPL (Illustrated Parts List) go ahead and PM me your email address. I'll send it to you. 'Tis a very extensive IPL that covers all of the 33/35/39 series saws with the various changes made throughout the run.
