McCulloch Chain Saws

[Eccentric]

It is on my watch list. :msp_smile:

Steve I'll save you the trouble and trade you my 740 for your SD166.

 

[8433jeff]

Steve I'll save you the trouble and trade you my 740 for your SD166.

Not before I run it.

 

[Arrowhead]

Here's the CP70. My friend dropped it off this morning. It's got the original bar and chain and cover. I believe it will clean up nicely. :msp_thumbsup:

The bad news... It's froze up. I looked into the plug hole, I don't think it's from scoring, but from sitting many years in a damp area. The end of the plug was super rusty. I already love this saw. I can't believe how light and well balanced it is. I will be tearing it down today... with kid gloves. Hopefully I can free everything up without any damage. Any tips/pointers? This is my first teardown of a Mac this style. I'm sure I will be having questions for you guys.

 

[homelitejim]

Here's the CP70. My friend dropped it off this morning. It's got the original bar and chain and cover. I believe it will clean up nicely. :msp_thumbsup:

The bad news... It's froze up. I looked into the plug hole, I don't think it's from scoring, but from sitting many years in a damp area. The end of the plug was super rusty. I already love this saw. I can't believe how light and well balanced it is. I will be tearing it down today... with kid gloves. Hopefully I can free everything up without any damage. Any tips/pointers? This is my first teardown of a Mac this style. I'm sure I will be having questions for you guys.

Now I want a 70cc 10-10. Good thing I already have a 82cc one. Great find on a great saw, I would spray some light oil in the cylinder and let it sit for a while, and repeat the process as often as possible, maybe even use some mystery oil. The bearings are probably rusty also unless you are lucky, but you will find that out when you tear it down. You will not be disappointed with the performance of this saw. Right hand start to boot, and it looks like it will clean up nicely. rep sent

 

[heimannm]

Ed - you should discover there is no rocket science in building a CP70, everything is fairly intuitive. If you need and IPL send me a PM with your e-mail address and I can take care of that.

wyk - I had a 28" bar on my SP60 that I used with the cheapo 2x4 milling guide but I didn't like the way the saw balanced with the longer bar. I think you will discover the 7-10 will pull the 28" just fine so long as you don't put too much pressure in hard wood.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

As promised a couple of days ago, photo's from my saw starting excecise on Saturday.

First two are the 55 and 1-72, both equipped with Tilloston carburetors and both started within 6 or 8 pulls even after setting for 4 months or more.

After that I just went ahead and started all of them, here there are spread out for your enjoyment. Front row L-R: SP125, 7-10, 10-10S x 2, SP60 just behind (darker yellow), SP85 beside the SP60, CP55, SP118, SP125, SP105, SP105, 1-76, 1-85, 1-72, 55.

I don't know why this one was so shaky, maybe that was fatigue after moving all these saws around and starting each one: L-R Jonsered 621 x2, 930, 910, 2.3 AV Homelite behind, 036, 066, PM100, 840 with the broke fuel line.

Now a few small saws starting at the bottom: Olympyk 935, SP40, MM 110, JD??, Titan 57 on top. Way in the back next to the bag of charcoal is the 77, and hiding behind the bi-tricycle is the Super 797 with the black and yellow McCulloch bar.

Finally, a close up of the broke fuel line, guess I know now why it would not run.

Mark

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I got my NOS 28 for close to 30 bucks. I couldn't find an nos 24 for less than 70. ;(

I bought one at an auction a couple of weeks ago for $9. Brand new old stock. The bad news is they had a bunch of them and I only bought one. I consider that a severe case of brain fade on my part. I'll go out and measure it but I know it's bigger than a 20".

Update: I just measured it and it's a tad over 30" from tip to end, I guess that makes it about a 24 or 26 incher. I have several McCullochs it will fit on but no chain that long. I may have my neighbor make me up one sometime.

 

[wendell]

Steve I'll save you the trouble and trade you my 740 for your SD166.

You are a true and dear friend.

 

[Arrowhead]

I got the CP70 cleaned up ready to dismantle. I hate tearing down dirty saws.
Are bearings and seals available for this saw? Or should I take them to a bearing shop and see if they could match them?

 

[Warped5]

Ed, that saw cleaned up really nice. Since it was in a damp environment, I hope the WHITE DEATH has not set in ..

 

[heimannm]

e-mail has been sent Ed.

I think, but I am not 100% on this, that the bearings and seals are the same on all the 10 Series saws so you should not have any issues getting replacement parts. Looking through the IPL's the part numbers change, but I think this reflects a change in the philosophy or numbering schemes at McCulloch and does not actually affect the parts themselves.

On bigger displacement saws the PTO side bearings were in a steel insert, evidently some of the crankcases wallowed out under the needle bearings so the steel insert was a good fix, but the bearings and seals remained the same.

I am really on shakey ground here but I think the 600 Series saws used the same bearings and seals as well.

Mark

 

[homelitejim]

e-mail has been sent Ed.

I think, but I am not 100% on this, that the bearings and seals are the same on all the 10 Series saws so you should not have any issues getting replacement parts. Looking through the IPL's the part numbers change, but I think this reflects a change in the philosophy or numbering schemes at McCulloch and does not actually affect the parts themselves.

On bigger displacement saws the PTO side bearings were in a steel insert, evidently some of the crankcases wallowed out under the needle bearings so the steel insert was a good fix, but the bearings and seals remained the same.

I am really on shakey ground here but I think the 600 Series saws used the same bearings and seals as well.

Mark

I am pretty sure you are correct Mark as I scavenged parts off my 10-10A to get my SP81 up and running then scavenged parts out of a burnt up SP70 to get the 10-10 back up and running.

 

[wyk]

Ed - you should discover there is no rocket science in building a CP70, everything is fairly intuitive. If you need and IPL send me a PM with your e-mail address and I can take care of that.

wyk - I had a 28" bar on my SP60 that I used with the cheapo 2x4 milling guide but I didn't like the way the saw balanced with the longer bar. I think you will discover the 7-10 will pull the 28" just fine so long as you don't put too much pressure in hard wood.

Mark

I put the 7-10 in Eucalyptus again yesterday. I had the opportunity to cut a Euc limb off smooth with the trunk. I reckon maybe it was 20" thick. I lowered the rakers on the 20" bar down to closer to .030 and put a 35* angle on the cutters. I leaned on the ole mac as hard as I dared and she kept chugging. I am very impressed with it. However, at higher rpms(like right before you put it in the cut) she has some pretty good vibration. I was considering porting it, but that doesn't seem like a good idea with all the vibration since I intend to use this saw for other than cookies.

I have another question. A bud of mine has an air filter cover from a PM800. The popped up sorta one - will it fit my 7-10 for a spare?

Cheers, buds

 

[HeRoze]

Now I want a 70cc 10-10. Good thing I already have a 82cc one. Great find on a great saw, I would spray some light oil in the cylinder and let it sit for a while, and repeat the process as often as possible, maybe even use some mystery oil. The bearings are probably rusty also unless you are lucky, but you will find that out when you tear it down. You will not be disappointed with the performance of this saw. Right hand start to boot, and it looks like it will clean up nicely. rep sent

depending on where the piston is seized, you can dump a good bit of your favorite cheap penetrating oil in the crankcase through the intake to help on the lower bearing if they are rusty or bound. if not, hopefully enough will seep through to the bottom.

I had to take an impact wrench to the last two I had that were seized... after soaking for about a week. Lots of rust and corrosion on those engines, and possibly straight-gassed as well (I'm not good enough to tell for sure). I got lucky I guess and didn't do any additional damage to the walls, but not recommended. Stupid rings wouldn't come out of either of those pistons.

 

[Dennis Gauge]

Automatic transmission fluid sometimes works to free up stuck pistons.

 

[OldDeadWood]

Mark

I really like all those saws.

After all that work, you should have let someone else take the picture while you reclined in the rocking chair behind the saws.

ODW

 

[cutforfun]

cp125

good evening,
i am working on a cp125 and need to know what a good starting point is on tuning the carb. its a mcculloch brand with a few diffrent # options, sdc 20 , 129, 21-94 not sure what number you guys would need so i listed them all, thanks, i will post some pics when its running

 

[watsonr]

SDC 20 is the right one for the carb. Probably a K-10 SDC kit

 

[cutforfun]

i pulled the carb apart and all looks good, how far out should the needles be to get started

 

[joeymt33]

good evening,
i am working on a cp125 and need to know what a good starting point is on tuning the carb. its a mcculloch brand with a few diffrent # options, sdc 20 , 129, 21-94 not sure what number you guys would need so i listed them all, thanks, i will post some pics when its running

The SDC 20 is a good carb. To be safe, I'd start 1.5 turns out from lightly seated on both hi and low