McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

Mark. I'm beginning to understand why you would reproduce the BP-1 tooling first. The bar oiling is too cool - I wasn't previously aware of this feature. Ron

 

[8433jeff]

Mark, any dates on that? Early-mid sixties?

 

[heimannm]

I have one of those bars hanging in the shop, but it's too far buried behind other stuff to dig it out and show it off tonight.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Mark, any dates on that? Early-mid sixties?

If I have my facts straight, 9 month production run end of 1962 to beginning of 1963...

Mark

 

[HeRoze]

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Oh, and you will need to get the tip of the blaster about 3/8" from the work, and set the regulator at about 100 psi (pressure drop should make it drop to about 80-90 during use) Keep the tube up out of the baking soda... the pressure and air rushing into the box will pick it up and carry the baking soda up through the tube, and out the discharge end. You'll also need to clean any gunk and grimy crap off of the parts you want to blast before you do blast them... the soda doesn't remove the gunk very well.
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I think I need one more pic of how the hose barb / soda box / tubing are arranged during the process. Sounds like a venturi pickup...

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

Mark, any dates on that? Early-mid sixties?

 

[OREGONLOGGER]

Very nice!! Thanks for that page from the bible.

 

[heimannm]

O.K. that looks like 21 months to me, guess all I could remember was the 9 from '63.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Mark. I'm beginning to understand why you would reproduce the BP-1 tooling first. The bar oiling is too cool - I wasn't previously aware of this feature. Ron

I had to go back out to the shop to check on my younger son, trying to finish up a little Stihl saw for my SIL. I think we got to the root of the problem this time...

And here is the AUTOMAC bar. I assume the AUTOMAC chain must have used some odd ball drive links since a conventional 1/2" pitch chain fits the pitch of the sprocket, but the drive links don't seat in the sprocket nose as you would expect. Very curios to look at as the oil holes in the bar do not open into the groove as you would expect, but lead only to the sprocket nose bearing.

Mark

 

[OldDeadWood]

Mark

Great information and pictures.

Keep it comming. opcorn:

ODW

 

[8433jeff]

Life as a Mac head is so much easier when Mark is in country and has time to watch over us.

 

[Warped5]

Mark

Great information and pictures.

Keep it comming. opcorn:

ODW

Yah, Mark is the 'go to' guy for info like this!

Did anyone know that Mac missed the boat when marketing the BP-1? Mark brought his BP-1 to a mini-GTG earlier this year. It took at least 50 pulls before it popped the first time (Due to the long path the fuel must travel, he said). Mark got quite the cardio workout!

Life as a Mac head is so much easier when Mark is in country and has time to watch over us.

VERY well put!

 

[8433jeff]

Yah, Mark is the 'go to' guy for info like this!

Did anyone know that Mac missed the boat when marketing the BP-1? Mark brought his BP-1 to a mini-GTG earlier this year. It took at least 50 pulls before it popped the first time (Due to the long path the fuel must travel, he said). Mark got quite the cardio workout!




VERY well put!

Yeah, Mark told me, then he showed me, and then I ran it. I hate to say thats what convinced me, but it did confirm my suspicions.
Think about what else was on the market. XL's are not that much lighter, and not as powerful. No foreign saws at the time to speak of. The possibility for world domination existed and was extinguished. lol
Seriously, not that much else out there at that weight to go that fast.

 

[tbow388]

First Fix Gone wrong, Need parts

You guys have to go and look at my first fix gone wrong thread to get the whole story.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/189045.htm

This was and is my first fix saw. It went terribly wrong thanks to a little bolt.

Since this is my first fix I want to keep on fixing it but need some cheap parts like a piston and jug. Any tips or advice would be appreciated.

 

[promac850]

I think I need one more pic of how the hose barb / soda box / tubing are arranged during the process. Sounds like a venturi pickup...

Yep... venturi pick up... the air whooshing into the tube makes some suction on the end that goes into the box. Given you open the box by the tab that they give you, and put the tube in, about 1" or so above the baking soda, the air flying into the box swirls a little bit and pick up baking soda in the process... then up through that tube past the nozzle and out the end...

Will get the pics when I get my hands on more baking soda... might get to run to a bulk store later today to get a bag of the stuff... hope they sell 20-40 pound bags... gonna need them, lol.

 

[promac850]

You guys have to go and look at my first fix gone wrong thread to get the whole story.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/189045.htm

This was and is my first fix saw. It went terribly wrong thanks to a little bolt.

Since this is my first fix I want to keep on fixing it but need some cheap parts like a piston and jug. Any tips or advice would be appreciated.

That really sucks... looks like it got wedged in between the piston skirt and the inside edge of the intake port... yep, you'll definitely need a new piston. Might have gotten lucky with the cylinder but there is no way to tell until you tear it down for a better look.

I hate Murphy's Law... and if you find that little bolt in there, melt it into a useless blob of goo with a blowtorch for committing such a sin on a good engine and for assisting Murphy in his cruel endeavors...

 

[mactodd]

tbow, where are you in MS? When I get home to AL (Tuscaloosa) in a few days, I may be able to fix you up with a complete rotating assembly. Don't write off the cylinder yet. It's a cast iron liner and can be smoothed out if it ain't too bad.

 

[promac850]

Well Mark, I looked at the bottom of my Super 44A again, and it shows these numbers...

S44A 55A and 9999

I figure the last one is the serial number, am I correct?

I am missing the air filter cover and air filter/screen... and the crank.

I'll, of course, still see about having the crank repaired. I bet a shop around here could do that, or better yet, the guys at the local CC... If that works out, then that's a spare that can hang around until I or someone else needs it.

And the carby that originally came with it is all seized up. Haven't gotten around to trying penetrating oil or other techniques on the throttle shaft to free it up yet.

This thing is starting to make me a bit excited, as is the 790... when the big old yeller of 6 cubes gets finished, and the trimmer for that buddy of mine gets done, that Super 44A will get cleaned up and repaired... and I might follow RandyMac's advice of putting a thinner head gasket in...

I bet this sucker will be a handful... however, the 790 will pull the trump card on all of the rest of the saws that I currently have... running or not... it should be fun with a 20" bar running .404" chain... (thanks for letting me buy that off of your 250, warped5!!!)


Drat, just remembered I need to fix the oiler on my 850... While the bar and chain are off, I got a local guy that will sell me chain cheap (at cost, IIRC) so I'll have some loops made up for the 28", and for 20" as well... gonna see if he happens to have a bar that will go on the 850 as well. It'll be fun to run a 20" bar with an 8 pin rim every now and then for some seriously fast firewood work...


heroze, unfortunately, it's raining cows and deer right now... so no soda blasting can be shown today.

 

[HeRoze]

====heroze, unfortunately, it's raining cows and deer right now... so no soda blasting can be shown today.

No hurry... I get the gist of it, but can't quite visualize how your controlling the pick-up.

 

[OldDeadWood]

Oiler Bar

Mark, Thanks again.

When I saw your photo on page 834 #12517 I noticed, in the upper right hand corner, what looks like a button on the bar.

I realized at that point that I owned a 24", McCulloch, Hardnose, Nose Oiler Bar.

View attachment 214252View attachment 214253
View attachment 214254

I picked this thing up at a fleemarket last summer for a couple bucks and didn't pay any attention to it at the time. When I saw your photo I remembered the button shape at the mount end.

Well I checked it now.

The oil goes in the screens, that look like buttons, and comes out neer the nose on the top and bottom of the bar.

If you hadden't put up that picture I may not have realized what I had.

AS is a great place for information like this.

ODW