McCulloch Chain Saws

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While I'm sure this has been discussed before, I was unable to find anything specific to the older Mac's using the alleged search feature here. Being new to the older Mac saws (but have past Karting experience with them) I need to know is it really necessary to run these at 20:1 when using a premium oil? Also the manual I am browsing through (Thanks Aaron!) says to use a low octane fuel where I'm used to running mid-grade fuel in my newer saws. Do I need to run 87 rather than 89?

I mix my oil 32:1 which is used on everything from PM6 to the SP-125. The oil I use is 1990's vintage McCulloch brand oil in plastic bottles that look like Stabil bottles. I've started using 92 octane recently. I do use a fuel stabilizer, was Seafoam for years, went to Lucas brand Safeguard Fuel Conditioner because it much cheaper (1 ounce for 5 gallons gas vs 5 ounces with seafoam) and it works with E10 gas.

bob
 
While I'm sure this has been discussed before, I was unable to find anything specific to the older Mac's using the alleged search feature here. Being new to the older Mac saws (but have past Karting experience with them) I need to know is it really necessary to run these at 20:1 when using a premium oil? Also the manual I am browsing through (Thanks Aaron!) says to use a low octane fuel where I'm used to running mid-grade fuel in my newer saws. Do I need to run 87 rather than 89?

One more question: what is the best way to clean up these beasts? Is something like Simple Green and water ok to use or would I be better off with something else, and more importantly what should I stay away from?

CPR - thats a nice looking 250!

You can actually run at 50:1 with modern oils. There was an official Homelite publication that stated that their new oils at 50:1 can go in every two stroke motor they ever made.

I run 40:1, using 100LL gas with Amsoil Dominator synthetic oil, just to give a little room for measuring error. Going higher with the octane rating is never a bad thing, but most saws will run just fine on 87. The 100LL has no ethanol in it, and it has a 2+ year shelf life, so it is totally worth it. This stuff can be bought at most small airports for about $5 a gallon.

Best cleaner I know of is Purple Power. Really cuts the grease well.
 
I use castrol super clean. If you haven't tried it, then you don't know what you are missing. Wear gloves if you use it concentrated.
 
I've posted this on the swap meet and thought I'd get better results from the experts here. I find myself in need of some 7-10 parts, handle brace, AF cover and a muffler. If anyone has some of these spare parts I'd be willing to part with some 10-10 parts or stihl, or craftsman or even faded photos of dead presidents in various denominations. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I've posted this on the swap meet and thought I'd get better results from the experts here. I find myself in need of some 7-10 parts, handle brace, AF cover and a muffler. If anyone has some of these spare parts I'd be willing to part with some 10-10 parts or stihl, or craftsman or even faded photos of dead presidents in various denominations. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Ive got the handle brace, PM me if you'd like it. I may be from any one of the 10-series instead of a 7-10.
 
Keep at it Mark. Sounds like a crank seal to me too. That NOS Windsor bar I put on my PM700 turned out to be a TMX (same as D276) afterall. No Echo/Poulan oiler holes. My feeble brain confused it with the used Oregon D176 bar I have put aside for my 7-10A. That Windsor bar reads 24TMX50SN for 24"/ TMX/.050G/Sprocket-Nose.

Thats more like I thought on that bar, you had me second guessing myself. I had this one going with a Poulan branded Windsor 24" bar yesterday and we know that the bar is actually a Homelite/Pioneer hybrid mount but it oils through the adjuster holes just fine and a set of spacers on the studs fix the 3/8's slot problem.

I'll look tomorrow, but I may have an extra muffler bolt. IF it is a seal, it's a PTO side where somebody got twigs or brush between the case and clutch. I may have an extra one of those as well. The flywheel side is well protected, and the monster ball bearing on that side keeps the crank in position.

Muffler bolts or no, they are still loud!
Hot tip, make sure the two bolts that hold the tank assy to the block are tight. I had a great 10-10 that ended up breaking those bolts, and rendered the cylinder useless. Was still running strong until both broke, and would not run at all.

Actually I'm thinking its the FW side seal as I had it running without the clutch and sprayed the seal while it was running and it changed nothing.

Its either the FW side seal or the gaskets between the tank housing and the engine. I just have to make up a block off plate for the exhaust port to vac test it now.

Chris was over yesterday with his fine running PM700 and we swapped its carb on this 7-10 to rule out any carb trouble.

Thanks for the offer of the muffler bolt and I'll let you know if I dont come up with a fix for it, but I have a idea.
 
Mac 3200

I'm thinking about getting a saw to use for teaching my son - something small, light and not very valuable. This was one of the saws I'm considering, but I cannot find much of any data on them. Any info would be appreciated.
 
Well I found the leak. The seals are fine but whoever put this engine together thought it would be a good idea to seal the cyl/crankcase/oil tank up with Indian Head gasket sealer.

I always cringe when I hear someone reccomending to use this stuff on someting besides a gasket.

So I got way deeper and more involved in this then I intended to. At least the P/C in such good shape make it worth it.

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I'm thinking about getting a saw to use for teaching my son - something small, light and not very valuable. This was one of the saws I'm considering, but I cannot find much of any data on them. Any info would be appreciated.

Curious why not a 10-10? Chain brake can be put on, parts are plentiful and dirt-cheap, and it's athe real Mac... Just a thought.
 
Curious why not a 10-10? Chain brake can be put on, parts are plentiful and dirt-cheap, and it's athe real Mac... Just a thought.
Yeah - he's 13 now and built slight like me. A 10-10 is a 15.6lb (powerhead only) 55cc saw according to Acres, and I believe it will be quite some time before he's ready for something like that! I'm interested in something less than 36cc to put a 12" or 14" bar on. I could let him use my 10lb Husky 142, but I use that regularly and would have to put on safety chain and a shorter bar.

It's not a big deal, just starting to look around. There are plenty of choices and I can always pick up a cheap Woodshark or some-such, but I just was looking for something a little different and more interesting for Daddy to work on.
 

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