McCulloch Chain Saws

[promac850]

Here's my page 850 contribution...

 

[joeymt33]

sorry its not an action photo....but they've seen action

 

[bob15]

Yeah - he's 13 now and built slight like me. A 10-10 is a 15.6lb (powerhead only) 55cc saw according to Acres, and I believe it will be quite some time before he's ready for something like that! I'm interested in something less than 36cc to put a 12" or 14" bar on. I could let him use my 10lb Husky 142, but I use that regularly and would have to put on safety chain and a shorter bar.

It's not a big deal, just starting to look around. There are plenty of choices and I can always pick up a cheap Woodshark or some-such, but I just was looking for something a little different and more interesting for Daddy to work on.

I first learned/began using a chainsaw about the same time (13-14), I learned on a Mac 10-10A, right hand start, no chain brake, 16" bar. A 10-10 isn't as heavy as it seems or reading, and remember, when cutting horizontally, your not carrying the saw, just guiding it through the wood. If you want something smaller, look for the older 100 series saw.

 

[Mr. Bow Saw]

 

[cpr]

Yeah - he's 13 now and built slight like me. A 10-10 is a 15.6lb (powerhead only) 55cc saw according to Acres, and I believe it will be quite some time before he's ready for something like that! I'm interested in something less than 36cc to put a 12" or 14" bar on. I could let him use my 10lb Husky 142, but I use that regularly and would have to put on safety chain and a shorter bar.

It's not a big deal, just starting to look around. There are plenty of choices and I can always pick up a cheap Woodshark or some-such, but I just was looking for something a little different and more interesting for Daddy to work on.

10-4. I was probably around 5-5" 110 at that age (heck I'm no he-man now at 6' 180), but I managed dad's PM 55 okay. Same as 10-10. Like I said, just a thought.

 

[rwoods]

I toted my dad's MAC geardrive for him but he started me on a Power Mac 6A. I never did get to run the geardrive. Ron

 

[Modifiedmark]

Fixed it for you Mark!

If it is from before the Tiawan era, then it was made in Mexico......

Yep, I forgot about the Meheco fake Macs.

 

[Modifiedmark]

At least you'll have peace of mind that It's done right Mark. I'm always impressed by the size of the bearings in these saws when I see 'em apart.

Yeah they have some meat on the brgs.

I got this thing back together and its fixed. Runs like its supposed to now. I went ahead and blocked off the extra carb adjuster holes in it while it was apart.

This thing was rednecked up pretty good but I got it done. It was dark when I got it done so no tryouts in the wood yet. Maybe next weekend I'll see what its made of.

Where are you guys getting the fuel caps for these things? I have had nothing but trouble with most that I have ever ran across with these. If the duckbills are not goo, then the gaskets are leaking on them.

I even bought a NOS on for my 10-10 and it was junk when it got here. I ended up drilling a hole in it and got a Homelite duckbill in it so it was working anyway. I went to borrow it to put on the 7-10 and now its leaking again also.

Anyway, the ole girl don't look like much but I know mechanically its top notch now and should work out ok. Maybe next weekend I'll see if heimannm is right about these things. (dont tell him I had to use a Poulan part on it to fix it. LOL)

 

[OldDeadWood]

Starting out

I don't want to rain on the parade but I wouldn't start a kid out on a top handle saw.

And put a nose gard on it.

I'm really a chicken about kids in my old age.

ODW

 

[cpr]

I don't want to rain on the parade but I wouldn't start a kid out on a top handle saw.

And put a nose gard on it.

I'm really a chicken about kids in my old age.

ODW

I know where you're coming from and given a MS-200, I'd agree. That said, I had to master the Poulan Micro before I could touch the Mac. With proper education and supervision, I was fine.

 

[heimannm]

M. Mark - If your fuel cap has the brass insert, just give it a twist with a pair of pliers, clean out the remains of the old duckbill and spring, and drop in one of the red Homelite ones. I put 3 #003 0-rings over the little nipple to get a good seal and you should be fixed.

For the caps with the black plastic insert, start out the same way but you have to drill them a bit to make the red Homelite duckbill fit properly, in fact I think you showed me that trick.

There is another style fuel cap that snaps apart but I can't remember how the vent/seal is supposed to work in those.

New cork gaskets for the fuel caps are available and also help solve nagging leak issues.

McMark

 

[Warped5]

Yeah they have some meat on the brgs.

I got this thing back together and its fixed. Runs like its supposed to now. I went ahead and blocked off the extra carb adjuster holes in it while it was apart.

This thing was rednecked up pretty good but I got it done. It was dark when I got it done so no tryouts in the wood yet. Maybe next weekend I'll see what its made of.

Where are you guys getting the fuel caps for these things? I have had nothing but trouble with most that I have ever ran across with these. If the duckbills are not goo, then the gaskets are leaking on them.

I even bought a NOS on for my 10-10 and it was junk when it got here. I ended up drilling a hole in it and got a Homelite duckbill in it so it was working anyway. I went to borrow it to put on the 7-10 and now its leaking again also.

Anyway, the ole girl don't look like much but I know mechanically its top notch now and should work out ok. Maybe next weekend I'll see if heimannm is right about these things. (dont tell him I had to use a Poulan part on it to fix it. LOL)

Nice work, Mark!

I'll take a look around here, I MIGHT have a fuel cap.

 

[Chris-PA]

I don't want to rain on the parade but I wouldn't start a kid out on a top handle saw.

And put a nose gard on it.

I'm really a chicken about kids in my old age.

ODW

I agree - I was not looking at any top handle saws. Just want something small and light.

 

[Brian13]

Nice PM850!!!

Yeah they have some meat on the brgs.

I got this thing back together and its fixed. Runs like its supposed to now. I went ahead and blocked off the extra carb adjuster holes in it while it was apart.

This thing was rednecked up pretty good but I got it done. It was dark when I got it done so no tryouts in the wood yet. Maybe next weekend I'll see what its made of.

Where are you guys getting the fuel caps for these things? I have had nothing but trouble with most that I have ever ran across with these. If the duckbills are not goo, then the gaskets are leaking on them.

I even bought a NOS on for my 10-10 and it was junk when it got here. I ended up drilling a hole in it and got a Homelite duckbill in it so it was working anyway. I went to borrow it to put on the 7-10 and now its leaking again also.

Anyway, the ole girl don't look like much but I know mechanically its top notch now and should work out ok. Maybe next weekend I'll see if heimannm is right about these things. (dont tell him I had to use a Poulan part on it to fix it. LOL)

I am working on a 7-10 looks a lot like yours. Fuel cap is shot as well, duck bill didnt even slow the feul down from spilling out. Need to fix it or get a new cap. Need a clutch cover and another handle bar. Dont have all the issues figured out yet, but I have it running well enough to second that it is loud!! Super loud. Probably the loudest saw I own.

 

[Modifiedmark]

M. Mark - If your fuel cap has the brass insert, just give it a twist with a pair of pliers, clean out the remains of the old duckbill and spring, and drop in one of the red Homelite ones. I put 3 #003 0-rings over the little nipple to get a good seal and you should be fixed.

For the caps with the black plastic insert, start out the same way but you have to drill them a bit to make the red Homelite duckbill fit properly, in fact I think you showed me that trick.

There is another style fuel cap that snaps apart but I can't remember how the vent/seal is supposed to work in those.

New cork gaskets for the fuel caps are available and also help solve nagging leak issues.

McMark

Yeah the brass insert is the one I done the Homelite duckbill in before on the 10-10 and I think the gasket is whats leaking now. The 7-10's cap has a corner broken off of it and thats where its leaking so its junk. Where is the best place to find the cork gaskets?
There was one that was a softer rubber if I remember right and I put a Homelite valve in it and used a small washer pressed in place to hold it if I remember right.

Nice work, Mark!

I'll take a look around here, I MIGHT have a fuel cap.

Thanks Ted, I thought I seen one in the shop sometime back but after looking all over today for it, I couldnt find it.


Brian13, this 7-10 is alot quieter now that the muffler is actually bolted on now. LOL

 

[promac850]

I know where you're coming from and given a MS-200, I'd agree. That said, I had to master the Poulan Micro before I could touch the Mac. With proper education and supervision, I was fine.

Make it very clear to him to keep that bar and chain away from his body anytime the saw is running... and make sure he wraps his thumb around the front handle, instead of laying it on top... that can be a factor in controlling a kick back event.

Longer bar helps. Put the longest bar on that saw possible within it's capabilities of pulling. On a real small saw, that might be a 12-14" bar or so.

When it gets to the bigger saws, the same basic crap applies. Keep that bar and chain away from yourself, and watch that upper corner of the bar whenever you're cutting or whenever the chain is flying around said bar.

He doesn't have to be afraid of the saw's power head as much as its bar and chain... goes for gear drives too, it can't bind and break your rib if it doesn't have a bar and chain on it... be scared of the chain...

I learned a lot from my neighbor, who was a logger when he was my age. He's probably forgotten more than I know. I learned from my dad as well, who was a newbie when he picked up the very first saw to enter our four people and a dog family back in the early 90's... the famous/infamous PM610... he actually has experienced kick back from the tip, the chain brake did its job. It didn't get him. Hopefully a saw never will. I've only had saws jump up a bit in the cut due to a nail. So far, nothing from the tip... I hope and try to do everything to avoid that.

I actually recommend you start him off without chaps first. He should be a lot more careful without them, since there is nothing to stop the chain... Chaps can build a false sense of security, just like airbags... However, if he has to limb a tree out or something like that, and not cut logs on the ground, then chaps might be a good idea in case something does go wrong.

Just my humble opinion... I was quite new to saws until about two years ago.

Now I have CAD... (thanks guys! It gives me something else to do and sort of justifies all of the saws I have and will have!)

 

[rwoods]

Kyle, you are showing your young age. Depriving a newbie of safety equipment is a sure-fire way to get him hurt really bad if something does go amuck.

FWIW, just because I started with a top handle (pre-chainbrake, pre-safety chain, pre-bar tip days) which by the way was safer than my father's geardrive bowsaw doesn't mean I would start a kid that way today. Same with safety equipment. We didn't wear gloves. Muffs were for shooting pistols. Safety glasses were for lab class. And chaps were something that tv cowboys wore. But anybody I teach to use a saw will have safety gear. Ron

 

[cpr]

I didn't wear chaps as a kid, pretty sure there weren't any.

I'd never take that chance today. Sharp chain tossed for no apparent reason. All I felt was a tap. Look close, that's four layers of kevlar it got through. Don't do that to yourself or your kid when you know better.

 

[leeha]

I wear mine all the time now. Ya never know
what can happen.
Your lucky Charles.




Lee

 

[Brian13]

I have been wondering, do you think a pair of chaps would stop a gear drive? Dosnt seem like it would be able to work like its intended.