McCulloch Chain Saws

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I'm thinking about getting a saw to use for teaching my son - something small, light and not very valuable. This was one of the saws I'm considering, but I cannot find much of any data on them. Any info would be appreciated.


I'm working on a Mac 310, waiting for carb kit. PM me if you have any interest.
 
I have been wondering, do you think a pair of chaps would stop a gear drive? Dosnt seem like it would be able to work like its intended.

I don't think they would effectively wad up the drive gear like the videos, but depending on gearbox you also have half the chain speed or less. Mitigating factor? I don't know, but I'd not want to tangle with one.
 
I'm working on a Mac 310, waiting for carb kit. PM me if you have any interest.
Thanks, but I'm going to stay away from a top handle. I want to teach him to start it on the ground with his toe through the rear handle and his left hand on the front handle.

I'm still looking at the Mac 3200, regardless of where it was made. I've learned more now from looking at the parts on eBay, and I like the design. It's built like a real Mac with a horizontal cylinder and a direct metal bracket off the bottom end to hold the bar bolts, which I like structurally even thought the rest of the housing has lots of plastic. I think it would be suitable for this purpose - light, rear handle, chain brake - and I find it interesting. He'd probably think it looks kind of cool. We'll see if I can get one cheap, but I'm in no rush.
 
Thanks, but I'm going to stay away from a top handle. I want to teach him to start it on the ground with his toe through the rear handle and his left hand on the front handle.

I'm still looking at the Mac 3200, regardless of where it was made. I've learned more now from looking at the parts on eBay, and I like the design. It's built like a real Mac with a horizontal cylinder and a direct metal bracket off the bottom end to hold the bar bolts, which I like structurally even thought the rest of the housing has lots of plastic. I think it would be suitable for this purpose - light, rear handle, chain brake - and I find it interesting. He'd probably think it looks kind of cool. We'll see if I can get one cheap, but I'm in no rush.

You find it interesting because you never worked with or on one. Lots of plastic, less durable than than other light green plastic. And the light green is easier to work on.

Calling that POS a real Mac, or saying that its built like a real Mac, is like saying a VW beetle is a fine example of a German tank. After all, they both moved German soldiers and guns around in WWII.
 
You find it interesting because you never worked with or on one. Lots of plastic, less durable than than other light green plastic. And the light green is easier to work on.

Calling that POS a real Mac, or saying that its built like a real Mac, is like saying a VW beetle is a fine example of a German tank. After all, they both moved German soldiers and guns around in WWII.
Well OK, I didn't mean to insult real Macs! My point is that the basic structural concept is the same. I can always pick up another Poulan with a smaller engine, and while the plastic on those is plenty hardy it is also the primary structural component between the engine and the bar. Not so with the 3200.

VW Beetles and tanks both have their place - not necessarily the same place. I wouldn't want to learn to drive in a tank. Or pay for one.

I won't annoy you guys with it anymore, I've learned enough about it now.
 
Yeah, gear-drives are different, more rotating mass, heavy chain. I have never been hit by moving chain, but I would guess that quality chaps could protect you. While the chain might not make it through, I'm thinking that the chaps might well be pulled right off. With a gear-drive, you are more likely to get jabbed by the spikes or get torpedoed when it decides to walk out of a bound kerf.
 
I doubt your chaps will stop a WOT geardrive but your blue jeans won't either. Wear the chaps. I put a 1-60 bow over my head with a kickback; busted all of my knuckles on the guard and cut my left hand in two places where it managed to fit in the small gap left for the oiler. Of course a bow has tremendous kick back potential. With a straight bar I would say the hazards RandyMac noted are more likely to occur. I don't want to imagine the pain a torpedoed gear drive could inflict. Ron
 
I got torpedoed once while bucking an 8' Redwood that had bridged a gully. I was finishing the cut from the ground, with the 895 at a 45 degree up angle, the powerhead was at shoulder height. Things were going well when something "popped" in the middle of the log and the 895 came flying out. The pistol grip caught my right shoulder on the way by, breaking the clavicle close to the joint, separating and dislocating the shoulder joint. Yeah, it hurt some. I wandered up to the landing, the old chaser patched me up with a piece of innertube and duct-tape. I spent the next three hours bucking logs on the landing, lefthanded. The ER Doc, who was on a first name basis with me, left the field repair in place for a week, then replaced it with the standard stuff, I was off work for a month, spent that time drinking and chasing tail.
 
I can't wait for page 895, you didn't perchance get a video of that did you?

I might could get my 895 at shoulder height, but you'd have to have a fast shutter or you'd never get the photo...

That bar weighs as much as some of the modern saws...

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Mark
 
I have more trouble with mufflers/hot exhaust than with the moving chain...when the saw is on it's side like a felling cut and I lean in to it I sometimes notice a burning sensation down near the vitals.

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You can use the "torpedo effect" for good purpose if you are very careful, feel the pinch starting near the end of a bucking cut then throttle up and hold on!

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Mark
 
You can use the "torpedo effect" for good purpose if you are very careful, feel the pinch starting near the end of a bucking cut then throttle up and hold on!

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Mark

I haven't run a geardrive in almost thirty years, but IME with direct drives the big saw the better this technique works. I would say it should work well even with smaller geardrives. Ron
 
I didn't wear chaps as a kid, pretty sure there weren't any.

I'd never take that chance today. Sharp chain tossed for no apparent reason. All I felt was a tap. Look close, that's four layers of kevlar it got through. Don't do that to yourself or your kid when you know better.
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That explains the nagging thoughts I had later that night while watching the football game.

So far, I have not had a chain get tossed off of the bar, so lack of experience (time running the saw... not as much as many of you here... I'm bound to throw a chain at some point...)

I stand corrected on this issue. Get the kid his chaps. I highly recommend Labonville. I love the pair I have.



Regarding geardrives...

I doubt regular chaps will stop a geardrive if you're on the throttle, but the Labonville Competition chaps might really slow the thing down. 10 plys of that stuff would choke an elephant...

Though one possible 'benefit' if you will, of a gear drive is lower chain speed, so if you realize what is going on fast enough, you would (should, I hope) let off the throttle. I'm pretty sure then that the saw would bind up as there is a lack of horses pulling that chain...

If I had leeha's 101G (or a souped up geardrive saw like it) I'd have a pair of Labonville Competition chaps to wear when using that saw (or its brothers)... to be quite frank, that saw (well, chain...) scares the crap outta me...

Ah, young and stupid... sometimes being so bothers me... oh well. At least I'm learning from the best.
 
Found a better photo on-line. I'm missing the second word in the top line.

Fill (case?) with automotive gear grease to this level at lower plug.

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I decided to go with "case". So here's a print of the final decal that I layed on the cover to check the size. The real decal is printed and drying. I'm happy.

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I decided to go with "case". So here's a print of the final decal that I layed on the cover to check the size. The real decal is printed and drying. I'm happy.

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Smashing!!

How did you make the decal?

Is there some kind of decal print paper that can be bought?
 
I decided to go with "case". So here's a print of the final decal that I layed on the cover to check the size. The real decal is printed and drying. I'm happy.

That looks great! When you posted the question, I checked my 3-25 but there wasn't even paint on the cover, much less a decal.
 
Does anyone have enough experience with the 600 series to have a preference with either carbs offered? Some saws had the Zama carb and others had the walbro carb. I believe the walbro is easier and cheaper to get kits for. But is there any other likes or dislikes?
 
finally back

Hey guys. I havent been on here in a while. had lots of stuff come up and just havent had the umph to be on here. The cancer finnally took my dad on dec 23. dealing with that and all the funeral and estate stuff drained me. But i have been hauling home all his saws and parts that he left to me. We never did finish the super pro 80 we started to rebuild. We got the engine done and then dad was out of good days so i will be finishing it my self once i get my head back together enough to set and do it. I have a question though. I havent been able to make the pic function work no matter how I try so im asking if some one would perhaps be willilng to let me email a pic of my dad on the last day he was able to work on the sp 80 and have them post it for me. If this violates a rule then I apologize in advance to the admins. If someone could do me this favor i would apreciate. Thank you Sincerely Tom Curtis. (junior)
 
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