McCulloch Chain Saws

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Keith the large frame McCulloch gearboxes won't work on the 10-series saws. The 10-series gear drives have an oil tank/gearbox assembly that bolts in place of the crankcase cover/oil tank on the direct drive versions. I've had the listing you posted in my 'watched' list for a while, in hopes that he relists at a lower price. I have a 790 engine that I want to assemble an 890 gear drive saw with, using the gearbox and other parts from a large frame McCulloch gear drive saw.
 
IIRC the 82cc 10-series saws have larger crank bearings than the smaller saws in the series. Between that and the longer stroke (which means more crank clearance is needed), you'd have to machine the oil tank/gearcase. Then there's the bolt spacing of the block/oil tank halves of the 82cc saws. I have an NOS 82cc saw block I could measure, but I don't have any oil tanks from disassembled 54-70cc 10-series saws to compare with.

thanks for the info. if you ever run across a a 10-series gear drive for sale, please let me know. this sounds like a challenging project that will keep me entertained for a while.
 
thanks for the info. if you ever run across a a 10-series gear drive for sale, please let me know. this sounds like a challenging project that will keep me entertained for a while.

Will do Joey. I know one fellow somewhat near that has at least one. Don't think they're for sale right now though. If things change, I'll give you a heads up.:cheers:
 
Keith the large frame McCulloch gearboxes won't work on the 10-series saws. The 10-series gear drives have an oil tank/gearbox assembly that bolts in place of the crankcase cover/oil tank on the direct drive versions. I've had the listing you posted in my 'watched' list for a while, in hopes that he relists at a lower price. I have a 790 engine that I want to assemble an 890 gear drive saw with, using the gearbox and other parts from a large frame McCulloch gear drive saw.

I was matching numbers in the whats left pile in Joeymts sig line.
 
MAC heads, need a little help.

Got a Mac 250 for a fella that needs a carb kit and cleaned up. Kit is in and still can't get her to go, any tricks? Have torn her apart 4 times. Carb is clean, H/L passages are clean, gaskets are in the right order. What is the setting for the needles? She doesn't seem to want to pull fuel from a bottle and even when I'm squirting her down the throat, she'll run for a minute and then die. Have to pull her again after a squirt.... can't get it to take any more than the initial squirt.

Haven't checked compression yet, anything I'm missing?
 
not a hot enough spark. I ended up putting a chip in my old 250 because the points system was just plain worn out and instead of rebuilding it, I went the cheap and easy route and put in a chip, ran like a champ ever since. One thing on tuning I got it to start on the first pull and run great on the bench but when it hit wood it was a dog so I tuned it in the wood where it cut like a champ but it became a bi itch to start requiring 3 hands and a extra toe.
 
MAC heads, need a little help.

Got a Mac 250 for a fella that needs a carb kit and cleaned up. Kit is in and still can't get her to go, any tricks? Have torn her apart 4 times. Carb is clean, H/L passages are clean, gaskets are in the right order. What is the setting for the needles? She doesn't seem to want to pull fuel from a bottle and even when I'm squirting her down the throat, she'll run for a minute and then die. Have to pull her again after a squirt.... can't get it to take any more than the initial squirt.

Haven't checked compression yet, anything I'm missing?

Check your gasket in between the carb and intake, and make sure the impulse passages match up. I never realized that it can be a problem until Lee mentioned it. And I think Mark had said that sometimes it takes a few times priming it sometimes before it will pull fuel.
 
MAC heads, need a little help.

Got a Mac 250 for a fella that needs a carb kit and cleaned up. Kit is in and still can't get her to go, any tricks? Have torn her apart 4 times. Carb is clean, H/L passages are clean, gaskets are in the right order. What is the setting for the needles? She doesn't seem to want to pull fuel from a bottle and even when I'm squirting her down the throat, she'll run for a minute and then die. Have to pull her again after a squirt.... can't get it to take any more than the initial squirt.

Haven't checked compression yet, anything I'm missing?

On mine, there ended up being a little piece of the old gasket (or something very small and black) that was plugging a passageway. Blew it out and it starts and runs great.
 
Working on a 2-10 and I have no spark. I cleaned everything up and put the ignition system back together. Points dont look terrible but im not sure if the coil is shot or what. Any ideas?

Just do like I do...get the old ohmmeter out and check every component and wires for opens and shorts..Check the kill switch also.
 
MAC heads, need a little help.

Got a Mac 250 for a fella that needs a carb kit and cleaned up. Kit is in and still can't get her to go, any tricks? Have torn her apart 4 times. Carb is clean, H/L passages are clean, gaskets are in the right order. What is the setting for the needles? She doesn't seem to want to pull fuel from a bottle and even when I'm squirting her down the throat, she'll run for a minute and then die. Have to pull her again after a squirt.... can't get it to take any more than the initial squirt.

Haven't checked compression yet, anything I'm missing?

Randy take that carb apart and double check the assembly order. These 'sanswich' style carbs (Tilly HL's, Mac 'flatbacks') don't have the pump section in the same order as the 'cube' carbs. I put an HL together in the 'cube' order once, and the saw wouldn't pull fuel for ####. Reassembled it in the right order and it now runs great.

With the carb body upside-down, it's:

-Body (duh)

-Metering gasket

-Metering diaphragm

-Metering plate

-Pump gasket

-Pump diaphragm

-Pump cover.

The pump diaphragm goes on AFTER the gasket on these carbs (unlike a 'cube') because the pump ports that the diaphragm's "flapper valves" seal against are in the pump cover....which is the last major componant to go on. Cubes have those ports in the carb body...



Just buy a Nova module (the 'chip' in that 'kit') for $15 and install it yourself using your points coil. Replaces the points/condensor.
 
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Just buy a Nova module (the 'chip' in that 'kit') for $15 and install it yourself using your points coil. Replaces the points/condensor.

I agree 100%. I have a couple saws with Nova 2 ignition module. They work great. I also noticed that Oregon sells one and there is also a Megafire on Amazon as well for under $15.
 
I agree 100%. I have a couple saws with Nova 2 ignition module. They work great. I also noticed that Oregon sells one and there is also a Megafire on Amazon as well for under $15.

They don't ALL work great...I tried one on a Stihl 041 and followed the instructions to the letter and couldn't get it to fire, it had a good coil also. Someone said to reverse the wires if it didn't work, I did and still no fire. Maybe a bad new module. Mine was the Oregon version.
 
MAC heads, need a little help.

Got a Mac 250 for a fella that needs a carb kit and cleaned up. Kit is in and still can't get her to go, any tricks? Have torn her apart 4 times. Carb is clean, H/L passages are clean, gaskets are in the right order. What is the setting for the needles? She doesn't seem to want to pull fuel from a bottle and even when I'm squirting her down the throat, she'll run for a minute and then die. Have to pull her again after a squirt.... can't get it to take any more than the initial squirt.

Haven't checked compression yet, anything I'm missing?

I had one that seemed to have plenty of fuel, but I finally opened up the elbow and cover where the fuel goes in and was surprised to find about half a trees sawdust in there, very wet and the carb had fuel in it the first seven times I pulled it out and apart. Flushed that out and away it went.
 
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