McCulloch Chain Saws

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I have not seen many 1-6X Series saws sell on e-bay, the two that I have watched were both 1-60's and went for $54 and $92 + shipping.

I would say for a saw that could be made to run easily (all the parts are there and just needs a little TLC and maybe a carb kit) that $50 would be reasonable. For a saw in really nice condition, running, $100.

Personally I don't like the square tank on the 1-6x's saws, but having said that I do have all of the models setting on the shelf...and most of one more in a box in case I need a few parts.

Mark
 
Here's my latest Mac. It was a $46 buy-it-now on ebay. This is exactly how I received it. Looking at the rim and bar, I'd say it was only used a couple times. Has a 24" bar and original Mac chain. Anybody have a spike to fit this saw?

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Congratulations, that is a great looking saw. Great buy, too - I would have paid that for the bar and chain alone. Ron
 
I have not seen many 1-6X Series saws sell on e-bay, the two that I have watched were both 1-60's and went for $54 and $92 + shipping.

I would say for a saw that could be made to run easily (all the parts are there and just needs a little TLC and maybe a carb kit) that $50 would be reasonable. For a saw in really nice condition, running, $100.

Personally I don't like the square tank on the 1-6x's saws, but having said that I do have all of the models setting on the shelf...and most of one more in a box in case I need a few parts.

Mark

Thanks, Mark. This is a really nice looking 1-63. The fellow said it was a running saw when he sat it up on the shelf quite a while ago. It now has a pretty good coat of dust and grime but would look nice if cleaned up. I don't think that either me or my friend are hoss enough to run the thing unless it's lighter than it looks. He's also got at least 2 250s for sale. I looked to see if they said "Super" anywhere on them but I couldn't see it. They have the black top cover and starter so I guess they're a later version. Do you know of any way to tell the Super from a regular 250 other than the label or tearing it down?
 
Thanks, Mark. This is a really nice looking 1-63. The fellow said it was a running saw when he sat it up on the shelf quite a while ago. It now has a pretty good coat of dust and grime but would look nice if cleaned up. I don't think that either me or my friend are hoss enough to run the thing unless it's lighter than it looks. He's also got at least 2 250s for sale. I looked to see if they said "Super" anywhere on them but I couldn't see it. They have the black top cover and starter so I guess they're a later version. Do you know of any way to tell the Super from a regular 250 other than the label or tearing it down?

Read the numbers on the block. Supers won't have "250" stamped on them. They often don't have much of anything stamped on the block. Sometimes they have "83830" stamped on the bottom. That's the McCulloch part number for a Super 250 block. It's not always there though. Regualr 250's will often have one of the 250 block numbers stamped on them, such as "62481". there are a couple other visible charactaristics to look for too.

-A S-250 will have an auto oiler pump inside the gas tank, while most (but not all) regular 250's won't have one. A few regular 250's do have the pump in the tank. My 62481 block numbered 250 had a thin cast blockoff plate in place of an auto oiler pump.

-The Super 250 will have a clutch hub held onto a tapered crankshaft snout with a nut. A regular 250 will have a clutch hub that threads directly onto the non-tapered crank snout. There will be a bolt head like area on the hub cast in for you to put a wrench on, and will have an arrow with "off" showing you which way to turn the clutch hub to remove it. This should be the most telltale sign of a standard 250.
 
Read the numbers on the block. Supers won't have "250" stamped on them. They often don't have much of anything stamped on the block. Sometimes they have "83830" stamped on the bottom. That's the McCulloch part number for a Super 250 block. It's not always there though. Regualr 250's will often have one of the 250 block numbers stamped on them, such as "62481". there are a couple other visible charactaristics to look for too.

-A S-250 will have an auto oiler pump inside the gas tank, while most (but not all) regular 250's won't have one. A few regular 250's do have the pump in the tank. My 62481 block numbered 250 had a thin cast blockoff plate in place of an auto oiler pump.

-The Super 250 will have a clutch hub held onto a tapered crankshaft snout with a nut. A regular 250 will have a clutch hub that threads directly onto the non-tapered crank snout. There will be a bolt head like area on the hub cast in for you to put a wrench on, and will have an arrow with "off" showing you which way to turn the clutch hub to remove it. This should be the most telltale sign of a standard 250.

Thanks for the info, Aaron. I'll see if the guy will let me inspect it that close.
 
Need help please

I'm new to this so take it easy on me - will the side case that houses the chain brake and covers the muffler from a mcculloch 700 fit a 10-10s - i have 3 10-10s's i'm trying to get going again and finding this part ain't easy - also what's the deal with the black yellow and grey oil tanks? I have all 3
 
I'm new to this so take it easy on me - will the side case that houses the chain brake and covers the muffler from a mcculloch 700 fit a 10-10s - i have 3 10-10s's i'm trying to get going again and finding this part ain't easy - also what's the deal with the black yellow and grey oil tanks? I have all 3

Most all the parts from the 10 series saws will interchange except pistons and things like that. I've never tried swapping those particular parts but it wouldn't surprise me if it fits. Those covers are available if you know where to look. Several places on the 'net besides ebay that has this part. If nothing else just buy another parts saw that has the correct part on it. Black and Yellow are McCulloch's colors, don't know about the gray. It's not primer is it?
 
I'm new to this so take it easy on me - will the side case that houses the chain brake and covers the muffler from a mcculloch 700 fit a 10-10s - i have 3 10-10s's i'm trying to get going again and finding this part ain't easy - also what's the deal with the black yellow and grey oil tanks? I have all 3

That muffler cover/chainbrake type clutch cover you're talking about will work fine on a 10-10S if it came off of a PM700. McCulloch changed color schemes many times on the 10-series saws, often during production of the same models. No rhyme or reason for it. The black and grey oil tanks seem to be on the latest saws most often. No difference other than the colors.
 
Thanks for the answers

Yeah yall are all right got to looking online and the 700 and the 10-10s side covers do interchange - I got my first 10-10s from my pawpaw that recently passed away that he bought around 1982 to replace a blue homelite that didn't have a chainbrake - nevertheless the homelite slipped out of his hands one day and just about cut his arm off - the mac 10-10s of his has always been run hard and never let him down so when i got it i just cleaned it up and looked into getting a parts saw so i could keep his saw going - i run across a ad on ebay for 2 10-10s's complete so i bought them and now im trying to get these two running too - you know if one is good three is great right? anyway what about the mac 797 on ebay whats it worth and how about parts how hard are they gonna be to find
 
Model 35 ???

So I sprayed WD-40 and tinkered with the starter pawls so now they engage but was only able to turn it over slightly. Found the spark plug but can not get any room with the plug wire boot to get a socket on the plug. Am I missing something here?? Wire stuck to something??

I need directions for this old devil.

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Opened a little door and found the points instead of a carb.. I'll open the big door with the six-eight screws and look there as the throttle link won't move.

Can't get the fuel cap to turn.

This thing may become a yard orniment.

Carl.
 
Since I'm selling off most of my saws, I won't have the sp125 or 105 with the long bars. I will be keeping 4 of the 82cc 10-series though. I've got one with a 24" one with a 28" and one with a 32". Should I, or can I go much longer for my forth one. The 850 pulls the 32" full comp chain well with a 7 tooth. But I fear I'll need a bigger bar someday and not have it. There was only two times in 2011 that I actually needed that 38" bar. I go to church with a guy that wants me to cut a large oak that I measured 37" diameter about 4' off the ground. I hope he pulls the trigger and calls me to cut it but It will take a while to buck it up with a 32" bar when I get it on the ground.

Has anyone tried a 38" bar with a skip chain on a 82cc?

BTW, If I get a longer bar, I'll put it on the saw with the most compression.
 
Even when selling saws, the Mac bug still tries to keep the yellow fever strong

I promised myself I would only CAD McCulloch chainsaws when i started this hobby a few months ago. I fear if i open it up to other saws I would have endless projects and no room for them.

Although I do want to take a poulan wild thing and put a nitrous kit on it and blow the rotating assembly out the side of the crankcase, just for kicks. Wouldnt do that to a MAC. Dont worry, ill make a video:hmm3grin2orange:
 
I promised myself I would only CAD McCulloch chainsaws when i started this hobby a few months ago. I fear if i open it up to other saws I would have endless projects and no room for them.

Although I do want to take a poulan wild thing and put a nitrous kit on it and blow the rotating assembly out the side of the crankcase, just for kicks. Wouldnt do that to a MAC. Dont worry, ill make a video:hmm3grin2orange:

I'm sure if you did it to a mini mac you would not have too many hurt feelings.
 
Since I'm selling off most of my saws, I won't have the sp125 or 105 with the long bars. I will be keeping 4 of the 82cc 10-series though. I've got one with a 24" one with a 28" and one with a 32". Should I, or can I go much longer for my forth one. The 850 pulls the 32" full comp chain well with a 7 tooth. But I fear I'll need a bigger bar someday and not have it. There was only two times in 2011 that I actually needed that 38" bar. I go to church with a guy that wants me to cut a large oak that I measured 37" diameter about 4' off the ground. I hope he pulls the trigger and calls me to cut it but It will take a while to buck it up with a 32" bar when I get it on the ground.

Has anyone tried a 38" bar with a skip chain on a 82cc?

BTW, If I get a longer bar, I'll put it on the saw with the most compression.

Joey, I've have little to no experience with skip chain, but with a sharp full comp and patience you should be fine. An 82cc will not balance very well with a bar that long and eBay prices will make you wish you kept one of your big MACs. Anyway as you probably know you can easily buck a 37" log with a 28" bar without changing sides. I like the longer bars for the falling as I don't want to walk behind a partially cut standing tree anymore than I really have to. Ron
 
I appreciate your input, I was hoping you would chime in since you're the 82cc man around here. And you're right about the price. I don't know if I'll ever get one for a decent price.

Thanks again
 
I have a pro 700 w/maybe 20hrs on it & my recent purchase is an eager beaver 2.1 which i plan to use alot. The 700 is going on ebay as soon as i start listing items on there. It is too heavy and slow compared to my stihl's but my dad bought it new way back in the early 80's so it will likely bring as much if not more than he paid for it originally.

Sent from my USCCHTC-PC93100 using Board Express
 
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