McCulloch Chain Saws

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i agree with you about these saws. they are good saws and very reliable. by today's standards they are heavy and slow but for the price that you can find them...why not have a few of them. you can have a 60cc saw with 20" bar for less than $100 and they usaully show up for work every time you pull them out.

Looks like you have the older thick ring version. remove that spark screen and back out the oiler screw. if you take it all the way down, you can open the exhaust port and really improve the power. it makes a big difference.

Older, like made in the USA. I have one of the newer ones with a sticker on it that says "made in Mexico".
 
Is anyone on this thread familiar with the starter rope replacement procedure on the Mac 35? I have my Grandfather's and until I broke the rope, it always started on the 2nd-3rd pull and cut fine. I know it's not a 10-10 or a SP125C, BUT it is one of the few mementos I have from him AND he saw I learned on... I'd like to keep it in running shape, so one of these days his great-grandson might be able to use it too', (along with his old .22 Winchester '06 pump gallery rifle). I pulled the rope out of it about 6 months ago that had been in it for the last 28 years and 2 ropes later, I still don't have it exactly right. I'm close, but not there yet... Any ideas?
 
Locust Cutter - There may be another way, but I don't know the tricks. Only way I have found to replace the rope or spring on the 33/35 saws is to remove both halves of the housing, put the starter together and slip it in one half of the housing then sneak it all back together.

Mark
 
Super oiling 10-10 Auto

How do you adjust the oil on a 10-10 auto?

I am WAY over oiling and it is driving me nuts!!

mac%2520side.JPG
:confused2:
 
How do you adjust the oil on a 10-10 auto?

I am WAY over oiling and it is driving me nuts!!

mac%2520side.JPG
:confused2:

You'll have to remove the oil tank cover. It's at the front of the saw and has only one flat head screw holding it in place. Once removed, you will find a screw protruding from the auto oiler assembly. In is less and out is more.
 
Fuel Line

I forgot in my last post to see if anyone has a good way to make your own fuel lines for the 10-10's

I have the 10-10 Auto and a Pro 10-10.

Both suffer from the fuel line getting hard and not staying set in the hole through the fuel tank.

I bought a new fuel line at my local hardware store and after a small while it did the same thing.

I have a idea on how to mod some regular fuel line to fix it but was wondering what others have done.
 
I forgot in my last post to see if anyone has a good way to make your own fuel lines for the 10-10's

I have the 10-10 Auto and a Pro 10-10.

Both suffer from the fuel line getting hard and not staying set in the hole through the fuel tank.

I bought a new fuel line at my local hardware store and after a small while it did the same thing.

I have a idea on how to mod some regular fuel line to fix it but was wondering what others have done.


My $.02 here ...

We know the fuel lines are about $9 on eBay. You could open up the fuel tank and install a combination of brass fittings in the wall before attaching Tygon on each side.

But then you are met with the larger issue of what to seal this (and the tank halves with) with ....

Someone recently (last few days) started and 'what to seal a fuel tank with' thread ...

I have been down both roads with the 10 Series fuel tanks .... now I have a few fuel lines stocked as well as those springs that go in 'em.

Hopefully, others with more experience than I will chime in and add to this ...
 
Well well, look at what was on the front porch when I got home today! More projects.

yhy9enud.jpg


u4yme6a5.jpg


The parts pile is the 8200. The cylinder looks to be ok. This will be a runner with a new piston, clutch cover, and air box cover. Anyone have any idea where I could find a piston?

The SP81 has great compression, like my PM850. The av mounts are good too.

The DE80 has ok compression? I'll have to check into that. I have all the parts to bring it to life.
 
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Working on my sp81.. still trying to find a muffler, anyone have one?? Pm me please!
But anway, im having troubles with the intake set up?
I think im missing the peice that goes between the cylinder and cylinder cover.
edarunyp.jpg
 
Parts...

The parts pile is the 8200. The cylinder looks to be ok. This will be a runner with a new piston, clutch cover, and air box cover. Anyone have any idea where I could a piston?.


I have an old mac shop by me that has a rediculously amount of parts. He will not sell me whole saws, but he has a few that would make you Mac guys giddy like little school girls. He will however sell me parts so if you guys need some, I would gladly ask him. I love seeing them back together. Sucks to part out clean classics.
 
Working on my sp81.. still trying to find a muffler, anyone have one?? Pm me please!
But anway, im having troubles with the intake set up?
I think im missing the peice that goes between the cylinder and cylinder cover.
edarunyp.jpg

good luck finding a muffler. they are hard to find, let me know if you find a source.

i'll go check the parts bins and see if i have one of those spacers and let you know.
 
I forgot in my last post to see if anyone has a good way to make your own fuel lines for the 10-10's

I have the 10-10 Auto and a Pro 10-10.

Both suffer from the fuel line getting hard and not staying set in the hole through the fuel tank.

I bought a new fuel line at my local hardware store and after a small while it did the same thing.

I have a idea on how to mod some regular fuel line to fix it but was wondering what others have done.

McMaster Carr, Buna-N 3/16OD tubing

McMaster-Carr

Fuel resistant replacement fuel line. Send me a PM.

bob
 
good luck finding a muffler. they are hard to find, let me know if you find a source.

i'll go check the parts bins and see if i have one of those spacers and let you know.

Anyone know why there so hard to find??
Maybe ill look at the 10-10 muffler and see if theres anyway to fab that up??

Much appreciated!
 

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