McCulloch Chain Saws

[minosi]

0.010" over piston 55322 (thrust washers) or 53942 (no thrust washers), rings 55124
0.020" over piston 53323 (thrust washers) or 53943 (no thrust washers), rings 55125
0.030" over piston 55324 (thrust washers) or 53944 (no thrust washers), rings 55126

Mark

Thank you!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Hey All,

Got the 1-70 apart, countless searches turned up a .030 over "thrust washer" piston and crank bearings.

Went to the machine shop yesterday, $50 to re-bore and assemble the small end of the con-rod....which seems reasonable.

At this point I realize the expense is greater than the value, but thats part of the fun!

Nonetheless, have more Q's:

Gaskets are a ##### to source, esp the tank gasket. What do you all recommend for gasket material and thickness?

The rear shroud is a little rough, will a S-44 cover work?

What spikes will work?

Does anyone have an IPL for this saw?

Sorry to be a PITA, you guys are the pros!

-Andy

On the tank gasket, on my saws I just made sure I had a smooth flat surface and used MotoSeal instead of a gasket.

 

[heimannm]

All of the gaskets you need will be available from e-bay, you can try looking at customchainsawparts as he has just about everything and reasonable prices. Look around some more, you will find what you need.

Mark

 

[joeymt33]

I had the opportunity to spend the day with Mark H and family. We had a great time eating, swapping saw stuff, and cutting. Thanks Mark!

I had camera issues and thought I was taking tons of video and pics but only ended up with just a few. Here is what I got, hopefully Mark will be able to post a few more

This is mark running the 1-81 with about a 28" bar and 1/2" chain

Here is my PM850 with 38" bar

Here is one of the trees cut up

Oh yeah, I got to cut with the BP-1!! Holy crap, that saw is sweet! I think mark got some pics for proof

 

[joeymt33]

i did a couple videos: here is Mark with the 850. i don't think the saw broke a sweat!

[video=youtube;vpeHNMI3-7o]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpeHNMI3-7o[/video]

 

[joeymt33]

and here is the man again running the PM800, it was just a touch lean in this video and mark richened it up a tad after this cut.

[video=youtube;At7QjL92uEw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=At7QjL92uEw[/video]

 

[mad murdock]

Been running a few saws the last couple of days. Felled a large-ish WRC and am milling some nice boards. While felling, I noticed a louder than normal "report" from the '700, and saw that the outer deflector has fallen off, and the screen is bouncing around with the muffler pretty much not there, in practical terms. It has plenty of snuff, and maybe picked up a bit with the reduced restriction at the exit. Has anyone tabbed a custom muffler for these saws? Any pics/drawings with dimensions and material specs? Or better to source a new one if available? Best place to look?(fleabay)? Thanks! And sorry about the lack of pics. I will try and rectify that tomorrow.

 

[JRHAWK9]

PM 10-10S fuel line....

I have a small break in the fuel line of my late 90's 10-10s and I want to replace it. The fuel line which was on it is tan and translucent (maybe started out clear and was dyed due to fuel/oil) in color, 3/16" in OD (measured by my digital caliper) and had a spring inside it. When I did a search for the part number stated in the IPL, it shows -THIS- to be the correct fuel line. This doesn't look anything like the one I removed. Mine is just a basic 3/16" OD (1/8" ID) hose with a spring inside it. No fancy ends or larger center section. The hole in the tank in which the hose passes through is slightly smaller than that of the 3/16" OD of the hose. This is solely what seals it. There would be no way that one would work in the 10-10s I have. Will a standard 3/16" OD fuel line work? It seems like all the 3/16" OD fuel line I can find has 3/32" ID, therefore the ID will be a bit less compared to that of the factory fuel line and I'm concerned about it not flowing enough fuel to the carb.

My connection at the carb also has a black plastic 90° barbed elbow, which points the connection straight up.

Any insight as to what's going on here would be great!

thanks!

EDIT: I found some 1/8" ID x 3/16" OD Excelon fuel line. This matches what was in it.

 

[bob15]

I have a small break in the fuel line of my late 90's 10-10s and I want to replace it. The fuel line which was on it is tan and translucent (maybe started out clear and was dyed due to fuel/oil) in color, 3/16" in OD (measured by my digital caliper) and had a spring inside it. When I did a search for the part number stated in the IPL, it shows -THIS- to be the correct fuel line. This doesn't look anything like the one I removed. Mine is just a basic 3/16" OD (1/8" ID) hose with a spring inside it. No fancy ends or larger center section. The hole in the tank in which the hose passes through is slightly smaller than that of the 3/16" OD of the hose. This is solely what seals it. There would be no way that one would work in the 10-10s I have. Will a standard 3/16" OD fuel line work? It seems like all the 3/16" OD fuel line I can find has 3/32" ID, therefore the ID will be a bit less compared to that of the factory fuel line and I'm concerned about it not flowing enough fuel to the carb.

My connection at the carb also has a black plastic 90° barbed elbow, which points the connection straight up.

Any insight as to what's going on here would be great!

thanks!

EDIT: I found some 1/8" ID x 3/16" OD Excelon fuel line. This matches what was in it.

The same thing you're experiencing happened with my Dad's 10-10s and my PM700. The orginal line you found is a molded line that fits older -10 series saws (including older 10-10's).

I'm not sure if the Excelon hose is really what you want to use. I'm not sure of what its compatibility is with fuels and gasoline. I believe that stuff is more food grade rated, which might land you in the same spot in a few years.

Personally, I bought 3/16 OD Buna hose from McMaster Carr. This stuff won't dissolve in today's crap gases and blends like the original fuel did. It is fuel line hose.

I would recommend something like this:

McMaster-Carr Scroll down to the very bottom of the page and you will find it.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr Chemical compatibility for hoses

And make sure you put the spring back into the hose, as it prevents hose collapsing due to pinching on the bends.

bob

 

[Warped5]

I have a small break in the fuel line of my late 90's 10-10s and I want to replace it. The fuel line which was on it is tan and translucent (maybe started out clear and was dyed due to fuel/oil) in color, 3/16" in OD (measured by my digital caliper) and had a spring inside it. When I did a search for the part number stated in the IPL, it shows -THIS- to be the correct fuel line. This doesn't look anything like the one I removed. Mine is just a basic 3/16" OD (1/8" ID) hose with a spring inside it. No fancy ends or larger center section. The hole in the tank in which the hose passes through is slightly smaller than that of the 3/16" OD of the hose. This is solely what seals it. There would be no way that one would work in the 10-10s I have. Will a standard 3/16" OD fuel line work? It seems like all the 3/16" OD fuel line I can find has 3/32" ID, therefore the ID will be a bit less compared to that of the factory fuel line and I'm concerned about it not flowing enough fuel to the carb.

My connection at the carb also has a black plastic 90° barbed elbow, which points the connection straight up.

Any insight as to what's going on here would be great!

thanks!

EDIT: I found some 1/8" ID x 3/16" OD Excelon fuel line. This matches what was in it.

The eBay fuel line you found should work as well. After removing the old stuff, feed a wire through the hole in the carb box out through the fuel filler opening. Slip the new line over it, into the carb box and pull out the wire. Now attach your fuel filter before pulling a bit more line from the carb box side to complete the seal. Yep, don't forget to insert that spring .... you will probably need to twist the line into a little loop to complete the connection to the carb.

 

[JRHAWK9]

thanks guys. The fuel line I bought stated it was good for up to 10% ethanol. I use ethanol-free fuel in my small engines so I'm hopeful there will be no issues. I ended up just cutting off the bad part of the original hose (which was near the end of the hose at the barbed connection to the carb) and re-using it for the time being. It's a bit shorter now but the filter still rests at the bottom of the tank, so all should be good. I will use the newly purchased hose the next time I service it.

 

[heimannm]

Joey stopped to see me this Saturday. We spent some time in the shop, then went out to the pasture to run some saws.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

We laid waste to some pine trees that were cut down this summer then drug out to this location.

There are more photos and details in my "Mini GTG" thread out in the chainsaw forum.

Mark

 

[joe25DA]

I picked this PM 610 today. The price was very right and I like these saws. They sometimes get a bad rap but all the ones Ive had run really well and also have finger tearing compression, and this new one is no exception. It needs a good cleaning, and fuel system going thru.

 

[joeymt33]

I picked this PM 610 today. The price was very right and I like these saws. They sometimes get a bad rap but all the ones Ive had run really well and also have finger tearing compression, and this new one is no exception. It needs a good cleaning, and fuel system going thru.

i agree with you about these saws. they are good saws and very reliable. by today's standards they are heavy and slow but for the price that you can find them...why not have a few of them. you can have a 60cc saw with 20" bar for less than $100 and they usaully show up for work every time you pull them out.

Looks like you have the older thick ring version. remove that spark screen and back out the oiler screw. if you take it all the way down, you can open the exhaust port and really improve the power. it makes a big difference.

 

[paccity]

wanted to soooooo bad.

 

[mad murdock]

Been running a few saws the last couple of days. Felled a large-ish WRC and am milling some nice boards. While felling, I noticed a louder than normal "report" from the '700, and saw that the outer deflector has fallen off, and the screen is bouncing around with the muffler pretty much not there, in practical terms. It has plenty of snuff, and maybe picked up a bit with the reduced restriction at the exit. Has anyone tabbed a custom muffler for these saws? Any pics/drawings with dimensions and material specs? Or better to source a new one if available? Best place to look?(fleabay)? Thanks! And sorry about the lack of pics. I will try and rectify that tomorrow.

Any suggestions? Thanks
M M

 

[joeymt33]

Any suggestions? Thanks
M M

chainsawr has this one for sale: Chainsawr mcculloch pro mac 700 chainsaw muffler

 

[Eccentric]

A few 'updated' pics of my 650 gear drive since I put on the NOS 32" bar I got from ebay and the rear handle grip. Ran it in some big oak a month or so ago. Strong, but SLOW with the 3/1 gearbox. Need to sort out the 1/2" chipper a bit better too.

 

[Adelia473]

Have my uncles pride and joy,2 old macs,a Mac 15 and 250. Both like new never abused and lightly used. He was a Mac man through and through. Pioneerguy600