McCulloch Chain Saws

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Anyone know why there so hard to find??
Maybe ill look at the 10-10 muffler and see if theres anyway to fab that up??

Much appreciated!

I'm always looking for those mufflers. I've only found one NOS in three years. You will see the pm800 mufflers more often. Here is a pic of the differences

du9ejyhe.jpg


upydebam.jpg
 
Working on my sp81.. still trying to find a muffler, anyone have one?? Pm me please!
But anway, im having troubles with the intake set up?
I think im missing the peice that goes between the cylinder and cylinder cover.
edarunyp.jpg

That little black piece in the picture is the piece you are looking for. Ron

PS I'm still trying to find you a muffler.
 
Joey, thanks for replying about the tank. I am looking for one. The direct mount seems to be the way to go to avoid boot leaks though I'm not too keen about the idle adjustment under the lid. Ron
 
I forgot in my last post to see if anyone has a good way to make your own fuel lines for the 10-10's

I have the 10-10 Auto and a Pro 10-10.

Both suffer from the fuel line getting hard and not staying set in the hole through the fuel tank.

I bought a new fuel line at my local hardware store and after a small while it did the same thing.

I have a idea on how to mod some regular fuel line to fix it but was wondering what others have done.

Thats funny too. I ran into the same problem. My 10-10 with the chain brake (the one I am selling) just took the standard gas line that most saws take. Then the other 10-10 has the custom line. Not sure on the one without the brake, because that thing is hard as hell to pull over. Could not find a compression valve on it and the muffler is on the bottom of the cylinder. I will probably tear it down one of these days when I get done with other projects. Should shoot some PB Blaster down there to see if she loosens up any.
 
need a little advice on McCulloch 125 crank bearings



I am trying to build a McCulloch 125 and today I decided to pull the crank bearings. I noticed that both bearings had a mark on the outside ring of the bearings. I have never seen this before.
I placed a puller on it and started to remove the bearing. After a few turns of the puller I looked at it just checking and the bearing was seperating at the mark. If I had continue the outside rim and balls would have come off and left the race. Is this the norm for 125 bearings and if so how do you remove them. Tom
 
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Looking for some info on tuning a cp125. It has the adjustable h/l and want to know what a safe starting point would be. Had it running today but seamed really rich .
 
Has anyone heard of a 2-10PS? I don't find that in any of my IPL's. I "accidently" bought this saw on that hated but popular auction site. I thought it would go higher, the guy has like 11000 feedback with 100% rating. I don't have a 2-10 in my collection so it will be a good addition.


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View attachment 253428

Have they changed something again? I can't seem to get the photos to embed in the post any more as they used to. I use photobucket.
 
Here's your pix ...

Has anyone heard of a 2-10PS? I don't find that in any of my IPL's. I "accidently" bought this saw on that hated but popular auction site. I thought it would go higher, the guy has like 11000 feedback with 100% rating. I don't have a 2-10 in my collection so it will be a good addition.

253427d1348059163-mac2-10ps-jpg


253428d1348059166-mac-2-10ps_r-jpg


The PS stands for 'Power Sharp,' a feature that allows the operator to sharpen the chain on the saw. The clutch cover on the saw you bought has had that clutch cover swapped out. It was posted ealier HERE.
 
The previous pic makes me want to restore my 2-10g even more. I submitted everything to the decal maker a little over a week ago, so it shouldn't be long till I have that much.
 
Every one that I have pulled came apart in a bunch of pieces. Where they bad or are you just replacing them... I've yet to have a set actually bad.

I am not sure they are bad....just did not want to take a chance. Thanks for the reply. Tom
 

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