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Tonight I finally got back after PM55 (it was having issues going full throttle) Found the fuel line while cracked it was not leaking but near the fuel filter it was kinked over most likely to the point of starving it of fuel. I removed a good line from another saw.

Installed a new carb kit but thought maybe I just should remove the welch plug and look under there as kit has a new one in it. I tried to poke it with an awl and remove it, no such luck. So I did the next worse thing and used a 1/16' drill bit and not paying attention went to far and through the carb body:msp_ohmy: So I did get the welch plug out to find no need to remove it in the first place:cry: and now I have a hole where it doesn't belong.

I JB welded it shut. Not sure how that is going to work. Will know more tomorrow evening on that when I start to destroy other machines in the garage.

Question though as I have seen others say to replace with a adjustable carb instead as this one is fixed H jet. I was going to jsut put the carb off my PM700 on it but it uses the top tank to hold the idle screw. Is there a carb out there that uses an internal screw for idle adjustment like the fix jet HDC that would save me from finding another tank top to switch around?
 
Between keeping the original manual and the straight shaft, I won't be bidding. :msp_rolleyes: But with a fat bar attached that would make one way cool but too heavy for me GTG chainsaw. Ron
 
struggle said:
Tonight I finally got back after PM55 (it was having issues going full throttle) Found the fuel line while cracked it was not leaking but near the fuel filter it was kinked over most likely to the point of starving it of fuel. I removed a good line from another saw.

Installed a new carb kit but thought maybe I just should remove the welch plug and look under there as kit has a new one in it. I tried to poke it with an awl and remove it, no such luck. So I did the next worse thing and used a 1/16' drill bit and not paying attention went to far and through the carb body:msp_ohmy: So I did get the welch plug out to find no need to remove it in the first place:cry: and now I have a hole where it doesn't belong.

I JB welded it shut. Not sure how that is going to work. Will know more tomorrow evening on that when I start to destroy other machines in the garage.

Question though as I have seen others say to replace with a adjustable carb instead as this one is fixed H jet. I was going to jsut put the carb off my PM700 on it but it uses the top tank to hold the idle screw. Is there a carb out there that uses an internal screw for idle adjustment like the fix jet HDC that would save me from finding another tank top to switch around?
Click to expand...

DE80 carb. McCulloch Double Eagle Chainsaw Carburetor NEW SDC-85 | eBay Ron
 
struggle said:
Tonight I finally got back after PM55 (it was having issues going full throttle) Found the fuel line while cracked it was not leaking but near the fuel filter it was kinked over most likely to the point of starving it of fuel. I removed a good line from another saw.

Installed a new carb kit but thought maybe I just should remove the welch plug and look under there as kit has a new one in it. I tried to poke it with an awl and remove it, no such luck. So I did the next worse thing and used a 1/16' drill bit and not paying attention went to far and through the carb body:msp_ohmy: So I did get the welch plug out to find no need to remove it in the first place:cry: and now I have a hole where it doesn't belong.

I JB welded it shut. Not sure how that is going to work. Will know more tomorrow evening on that when I start to destroy other machines in the garage.

Question though as I have seen others say to replace with a adjustable carb instead as this one is fixed H jet. I was going to jsut put the carb off my PM700 on it but it uses the top tank to hold the idle screw. Is there a carb out there that uses an internal screw for idle adjustment like the fix jet HDC that would save me from finding another tank top to switch around?
Click to expand...


Hopefully another member with complete knowledge will be along soon ...

I have a couple SDCs that, while they have the idle speed adjustment through the side of the tank, they also have one built into the carb. If I had none from the side of the tank, I'd still be able to do it .... after removing the AF cover.

If no one pipes up, I'll try to check out the numbers tomorrow.
 
Warped5 said:
Hopefully another member with complete knowledge will be along soon ...

I have a couple SDCs that, while they have the idle speed adjustment through the side of the tank, they also have one built into the carb. If I had none from the side of the tank, I'd still be able to do it .... after removing the AF cover.

If no one pipes up, I'll try to check out the numbers tomorrow.
Click to expand...

If I wasn't away from home in North Carolina this weekend, I'd check the carbs I have in the shop for you. I can check when I get in if you haven't resolved the issue. It will be Tuesday when I return.
 
No big hurry on this carb issue. I figured I would just take the one off my PM700 and that is when I saw the issue with it not having a selfcontained idle adjusting screw.

I'm still going to see what happens with the halfwit JB weld repair. At this point I have nothing to lose and I can always put the new kit into one another carb.

I have to say I really like these 10 series saws. I can't quite pin it down but I do like them.

Also since on the subject of 10 series what is the best method for sealing the two tank halves?
 
struggle said:
No big hurry on this carb issue. I figured I would just take the one off my PM700 and that is when I saw the issue with it not having a selfcontained idle adjusting screw.

I'm still going to see what happens with the halfwit JB weld repair. At this point I have nothing to lose and I can always put the new kit into one another carb.

I have to say I really like these 10 series saws. I can't quite pin it down but I do like them.

Also since on the subject of 10 series what is the best method for sealing the two tank halves?
Click to expand...

Aaron, how is the tank on that pm700? It was sealed with 3M double sides tape over two years ago, maybe 3.

Aviation grade Form-a-gasket also worked for me. I put it on top of the cork gasket. It is a permatex product I think
 
joeymt33 said:
Aaron, how is the tank on that pm700? It was sealed with 3M double sides tape over two years ago, maybe 3.

Aviation grade Form-a-gasket also worked for me. I put it on top of the cork gasket. It is a permatex product I think
Click to expand...

I have form a gasket aviation sealer that I used on the auto field and it works great for sure. Is the cork gasket you speak of an easy find or did you make it?

THe reason I ask is I have not had one apart yet but on this PM55 I see someone slopped some type of seal around the tank which leads me to believe I might be finding it is leaking once I sort this carb issue.
 
struggle said:
I have form a gasket aviation sealer that I used on the auto field and it works great for sure. Is the cork gasket you speak of an easy find or did you make it?

THe reason I ask is I have not had one apart yet but on this PM55 I see someone slopped some type of seal around the tank which leads me to believe I might be finding it is leaking once I sort this carb issue.
Click to expand...

The cork gasket is OEM, you may be able to find a NOS on the net. If not, I've reused the old cork gasket with the permatex applied to it. Hopefully, your cork gasket is still there.

If you use the form a gasket, apply it to both halves and let it sit a while before asembly.
 
The cork tank gaskets for the 10 Series are available from Bob Johnson, low cost too.

For Joey, I figured out what was going on with the PM650 last weekend. The saw would slow down and sound rich with the bar pointed toward the ground, and speed up and "lean out" with the bar pointed to the sky. In fact, the throttle linkage was bent and there is enough give in the rubber mounts that the body of the saw would move a little, push the throttle closed when the bar was pointed down and open it up when the bar was pointed up. Simple readjustment of the linkage took care of it but not before I took the carburetor apart twice trying to find something wrong.

I put a new gasket and the snap in / wedge in steel bracket to secure the oil pump, no more smoking PM800.

Mark
 
heimannm said:
The cork tank gaskets for the 10 Series are available from Bob Johnson, low cost too.

For Joey, I figured out what was going on with the PM650 last weekend. The saw would slow down and sound rich with the bar pointed toward the ground, and speed up and "lean out" with the bar pointed to the sky. In fact, the throttle linkage was bent and there is enough give in the rubber mounts that the body of the saw would move a little, push the throttle closed when the bar was pointed down and open it up when the bar was pointed up. Simple readjustment of the linkage took care of it but not before I took the carburetor apart twice trying to find something wrong.

I put a new gasket and the snap in / wedge in steel bracket to secure the oil pump, no more smoking PM800.

Mark
Click to expand...

I'm trying to remember when we were diagnosing that PM650, I think I called it! Didn't I say it could be a AV/ throttle linkage issue?

If you got the PM800 ready, I smell another race in the future!
 
Mark, Now that you tuned my PM800, I think it will be a good race compared to your PM800 with out oiler issues.
 
Last edited:
titan57

Hallo!

replaced all fuel and oil lines-runs good.
Where were they built? Made in ??
Thanks for looking
E.
 
Advance Auto stocks paper gaskets rolls right by the Permetex "section" & RTV...Felpro #3046 36 x 12 x 1/32"

Just picked some up to make a gas tank gasket for my 1-70

They also have cork rolls but I don't know the particulars

Andy
 

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