McCulloch Chain Saws

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Well boys here it is.

Photo0727_zpsfde4d055.jpg



She's a beaut Clark! I am looking forward to getting her running, NOT, into the pile of mini's it goes. It has been slow here, only been able to find little saws, I hope that it is not dried up.


Bring it over to the mini thread if they others cant handle it here:D......easy fix, change everything in that saw.:rock:
 
I was digging in some boxs of mac parts today and found two airfilter covers marked Cushion Pro 60 DX. They look like 10 series covers,but these are the first I have seen with this marking. I was looking for a 805 lid when I found these.
I also found a 10 series powerhead with a decomp,tag id# 600111d. My Mac list with id#'s is MIA some where,any help would be appreciated.
 
Back in the US of A but out of whack. Hopefully I will be near normal by the weekend.

Don't have my computer at home Jim but I think 600111 is a PM55. I can verify tomorrow when I am back in the office.

I did pull my 101AA out of the box just to caress it, it will need some work and I have to decide which frame to stick it in but I'm a lot closer now to having one in the line up. Maybe a Mac15 for starters?

Mark
 
Welcome home, Mark!

Just looked it up that model number, Jim. It's a Pro Mac 10-10S, which is the 'factory hot rod' of the sub-60cc 10 Series saws.

(Sorry Aaron, resistance was futile this morning) :jester:
 
Welcome home Mark,the jet lag from those long trips can really play havoc with body and mind.

Thanks for the reply Ted,how about a picture of that new bar mounted on one of your old yeller's.
 
got a carb, thanks ted, disassembled and cleaned it up. can't see anything that needs replacing so reassembled and mounted it.
took the tank top off on my PM60 to replace fuel line and filter. after replacing it the carb box becomes full of fuel when cranking. looks like either the gasket is shot or i need some type of sealant. would cork be appropriate for that application? what type of sealant?
also, is sealant necessary for where the line goes through the tank?
thanks, jerry
 
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Welcome home Mark,the jet lag from those long trips can really play havoc with body and mind.

Thanks for the reply Ted,how about a picture of that new bar mounted on one of your old yeller's.

Jim, I have gotten a chain ... but they are not yet on a saw. :msp_sad:

It will be soon, though. I am becoming more tolerant of the cold out in the garage.
 
got a carb, thanks ted, disassembled and cleaned it up. can't see anything that needs replacing so reassembled and mounted it.
took the tank top off on my PM60 to replace fuel line and filter. after replacing it the carb box becomes full of fuel when cranking. looks like either the gasket is shot or i need some type of sealant. would cork be appropriate for that application? what type of sealant?
also, is sealant necessary for where the line goes through the tank?
thanks, jerry

Good morning, Jerry.

Here is my $.02 and not a penny more ..

There has been much debate/discussion on the forum about sealing tank halves. I have used the 1194 stuff and a couple others with mixed results. I have never had any luck with the McCulloch replacement gaskets. The best results I've yet seen are with Joey's method of using the 3M body emblem foam tape. The PM700 he sold me had that done and it hasn't leaked yet.

On that line coming through the tank wall: I've seen new and used lines leak. Both OEM and AM, makes no difference. My personal rule of thumb is that if I can grab it and turn it easily with two fingers, it will most likely leak. Folks have had OK results with sealants (about the same as with tank halves) and some have reported success after wrapping the line with some Teflon tape.
 
Jerry - if the fuel is leaking where the fuel line passed through the tank you can either replace it and hopefully the new one will seal better, or try a few wraps of teflon tape around the old line then pull it through the hole again. If you search through this thread you will find the topic discussed in numerous locations with several additional suggestions as well like a bushing in the tank hole and a smaller diameter "standard" fuel line, etc. etc..

If the leak is the tank gasket, you can buy a replacement, or try using a fuel resistant sealant like Threebond 1194. Sometimes just cleaning the debris off the top of the gasket will solve leaking issues, I have been surprised more than once on the reliability of those old cork gaskets.

Mark
 
Good morning, Jerry.

Here is my $.02 and not a penny more ..

There has been much debate/discussion on the forum about sealing tank halves. I have used the 1194 stuff and a couple others with mixed results. I have never had any luck with the McCulloch replacement gaskets. The best results I've yet seen are with Joey's method of using the 3M body emblem foam tape. The PM700 he sold me had that done and it hasn't leaked yet.

On that line coming through the tank wall: I've seen new and used lines leak. Both OEM and AM, makes no difference. My personal rule of thumb is that if I can grab it and turn it easily with two fingers, it will most likely leak. Folks have had OK results with sealants (about the same as with tank halves) and some have reported success after wrapping the line with some Teflon tape.

Jerry - if the fuel is leaking where the fuel line passed through the tank you can either replace it and hopefully the new one will seal better, or try a few wraps of teflon tape around the old line then pull it through the hole again. If you search through this thread you will find the topic discussed in numerous locations with several additional suggestions as well like a bushing in the tank hole and a smaller diameter "standard" fuel line, etc. etc..

If the leak is the tank gasket, you can buy a replacement, or try using a fuel resistant sealant like Threebond 1194. Sometimes just cleaning the debris off the top of the gasket will solve leaking issues, I have been surprised more than once on the reliability of those old cork gaskets.

Mark

its a brand new line (bought and installed yesterday) and can be twisted in the hole. the old line is not usable. thanks for the suggestions.
 
Back in the US of A but out of whack. Hopefully I will be near normal by the weekend.

Don't have my computer at home Jim but I think 600111 is a PM55. I can verify tomorrow when I am back in the office.

I did pull my 101AA out of the box just to caress it, it will need some work and I have to decide which frame to stick it in but I'm a lot closer now to having one in the line up. Maybe a Mac15 for starters?

Mark

A hot rodded 15 would be the way to go... people already think they are real slow... but it's time to make one a sleeper.
 
Gentlemen--- has anyone seen the listing for a BP-1 on the fleabay? I figured one of you guys would be chomping at the bit for that one. Priced right now at 650 with 3 days to go. Who's going to end up with this prize ?? Looks to be in good condition but too far out of my price range.
 
Gentlemen--- has anyone seen the listing for a BP-1 on the fleabay? I figured one of you guys would be chomping at the bit for that one. Priced right now at 650 with 3 days to go. Who's going to end up with this prize ?? Looks to be in good condition but too far out of my price range.

You can bet there are many members here that have seen it and have it 'watch listed.'

Considering what it might cost to complete a carcass, it might not be a bad deal.

Like you, it's waaaaaaaaay out of my affordability/sensibility range.
 
I'm sure many members are keeping an eye on this once since it must be considered the holy grail for Mac collectors. There can't be that many of them that survived the recall, therefore scarcity increases the value. Like the rest of you, I too will be curious to see what that gem goes for.
 
Aaron, the 550 airbox cover and what?

Can't remember why I'd mentioned the 550 AF cover before. Don't need it right now. The 550 fuel tank and cover are something I'd like to have for my S-250 if/when you pull down the saw to make your gear drive project. No hurry on that on my end. That S-250 rebuild is way down the project waiting list...

I could use a flywheel (with pawls) from a LH start front tank Mac (200/250/etc). Hmmm.......what else? Can't think of any other pressing Mac parts 'needs' right now. I'm sure there's something I'm forgetting. Right now I'm mostly focusing on the 70cc and 82cc Macs, as that's what I use most of the time.

Oh yeah...........Tillotson HL19, HL103, and HL63 carbs (and the adapters that accompany the HL63's). Can always use those. I NEED an HL19 or HL103 for my blue Target branded 795 based cutoff saw. Got three primer flatbacks and one or two choke flatbacks (all complete) to trade you for those. Choke and throttle links from HL equipped Macs to go with those carbs are handy too (so I don't have to bend up new ones).
 

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