my pm 60 currently has a 3/8" pitch setup. any reason i should change to .325 since i'm upsizing the b&c?
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
I wouldn't, that saw will have the snot to pull a 3/8 chain easy. Even 24" bar if you had too.
It's not a high RPM saw so you need the bigger chain to cut fast.
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
PM sent on the rings parts number.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Traded some yellow saws and parts (and time/money usually spent on/with yellow saws) for some old American green and Swedish orange. Suddenly three fuel lines and two tanks let go...:msp_confused:
As for Jerry's SP-60, I'd also recommend an 18" or 20" 3/8 pitch bar and chain (such as the 'Yoopers' 18" bars on ebay).
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
That ought to teach ya
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Sez the guy who fire-sale'd most of his yeller collection..........
Of course I said "That ought to teach ya" to you when that happened........
I have no objection whatsoever to members who wish to unload a portion of their yellow and black collection, I simply request that they give due consideration as to where they are unloaded...
Mark
Mark
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
At least I sold yellow to buy more yellow if a certain class. I've got the 5cube yellow CAD!
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
I have no objection whatsoever to members who wish to unload a portion of their yellow and black collection, I simply request that they give due consideration as to where they are unloaded...
Mark
Looks like them cables are sharp and throwing some nice chips.
Somewhere in the belly of this thread we were discussing McCulloch's "unique" .354 pitch chain.
I have a good supply of .354 chain in both .050 and .058 in bulk, 8 or 10 pre-made loops, a dozen or so rim sprockets, plus a few spare AutoMac drums with the rim type sprocket welded to the drum in .354.
Until this week I never knew of the existance of .354 sprocket nose bars but one good used sprocket nose came up on e-bay and arrived at my place yesterday.
Just one more item in the long list of stuff you never knew existed but had to have once you found out and another reason I have to find a batch of rivets.
Mark
I have a good supply of .354 chain in both .050 and .058 in bulk, 8 or 10 pre-made loops, a dozen or so rim sprockets, plus a few spare AutoMac drums with the rim type sprocket welded to the drum in .354.
Until this week I never knew of the existance of .354 sprocket nose bars but one good used sprocket nose came up on e-bay and arrived at my place yesterday.
Just one more item in the long list of stuff you never knew existed but had to have once you found out and another reason I have to find a batch of rivets.
Mark
fechtichmac
ArboristSite Operative
.354
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Hallo
I got a 10-10 Lightweight saw over 20 years ago from an uncle.
This has the .354 chain .Nobody I asked at that time Knew anything about a pitch like that.
I got the owners manual as well and this confirms the existence of such a chain.
The saw has the std. hardnose .050 bar and runs till today.Never got a new chain for it,so I replaced the sprocket to 3/8 to be able to use the saw.Of course I ditnt throw away the old sprocket and chain ,so that it is now in original shape again.
This was my first own saw!
Eberhard
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Hallo
I got a 10-10 Lightweight saw over 20 years ago from an uncle.
This has the .354 chain .Nobody I asked at that time Knew anything about a pitch like that.
I got the owners manual as well and this confirms the existence of such a chain.
The saw has the std. hardnose .050 bar and runs till today.Never got a new chain for it,so I replaced the sprocket to 3/8 to be able to use the saw.Of course I ditnt throw away the old sprocket and chain ,so that it is now in original shape again.
This was my first own saw!
Eberhard
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Gearhead1
ArboristSite Operative
Eberhard, I've never seen a 10-10 with that style rewind housing. I wonder if it was for export models.
fechtichmac
ArboristSite Operative
Have two or three of them with this starter.Sure that this is an export version.very ligt weight!
Eberhard
I finally got some shop time, cleaned a few things up and put some parts away then got started on my 1-86 project. This one started out as a 1-76 that had been bored 0.030" oversize. I measured up the bore and the piston and determined it hadn't seen a lot of run time but did have some light scoring, probably some carbon from the exhaust got sucked back in there.
Checking the ring end gap I am guessing the former owner couldn't find the right oversize rings and just used whatever was on hand. I didn't have the right oversize rings either, but did have a good used set from a 790/795 (2.219 bore compared to the .030 over 1-76 @ 2.193) so I filed the ends down just a bit to achieve a suitable end gap and put it together.
Mark
Checking the ring end gap I am guessing the former owner couldn't find the right oversize rings and just used whatever was on hand. I didn't have the right oversize rings either, but did have a good used set from a 790/795 (2.219 bore compared to the .030 over 1-76 @ 2.193) so I filed the ends down just a bit to achieve a suitable end gap and put it together.
Mark
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
Can you have that one running by the time I arrive to the McMuseum? I'd sure like to be the first to cut with it...ha
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
I finally got some shop time, cleaned a few things up and put some parts away then got started on my 1-86 project. This one started out as a 1-76 that had been bored 0.030" oversize. I measured up the bore and the piston and determined it hadn't seen a lot of run time but did have some light scoring, probably some carbon from the exhaust got sucked back in there.
Checking the ring end gap I am guessing the former owner couldn't find the right oversize rings and just used whatever was on hand. I didn't have the right oversize rings either, but did have a good used set from a 790/795 (2.219 bore compared to the .030 over 1-76 @ 2.193) so I filed the ends down just a bit to achieve a suitable end gap and put it together.
Mark
Is that a new fly wheel? Or is it blasted?
The gearbox is going to require some work. Rather weathered exterior and the bearings and seal on the output shaft are shot. Bearings will be easy, but it is a rather unusual seal with a large OD and very thin cross section. I will sand blast this one inside and out then see if I can match the paint.
I started tearing down the 840 that will donate the gearbox for this project a few year ago and find that I have used a few of the pieces somewhere along the way. I think the crank case bottom (stuffer) from the 1-76 will still work, but the top and bottom braces that mount to the bottom of the crank case and gear box are missing. I will have to dig around in the attic to see if I have any suitable saws to salvage from, otherwise I will have to fabricate something to substitute.
The gearbox when I first opened it up those years back
It didn't get much better sitting in a box these years
Mark
I started tearing down the 840 that will donate the gearbox for this project a few year ago and find that I have used a few of the pieces somewhere along the way. I think the crank case bottom (stuffer) from the 1-76 will still work, but the top and bottom braces that mount to the bottom of the crank case and gear box are missing. I will have to dig around in the attic to see if I have any suitable saws to salvage from, otherwise I will have to fabricate something to substitute.
The gearbox when I first opened it up those years back
It didn't get much better sitting in a box these years
Mark
The flywheel that was on the 1-76 had a three broken fins. The flywheel on the saw now came from the 840 but had been painted silver over the dirt and yellow paint so I blasted it clean then hit it with some silver paint again.
I did replace the seal on the PTO side, the flywheel side had the double seals like you find on so many of the super series engines and the looked pretty good so I left them alone. Not sure where this crankshaft and cover came from but they were in the box with the 840 parts. As you can see in the old gearbox photo above, the original crankshaft was destroyed from running with a loose clutch, what you can't see was that the previous owner put it together with some JB weld, well that didn't work. The crank case cover that came on the 1-76 was broken and someone had tried t glue it back together with JB weld, that didn't work either.
Mark
I did replace the seal on the PTO side, the flywheel side had the double seals like you find on so many of the super series engines and the looked pretty good so I left them alone. Not sure where this crankshaft and cover came from but they were in the box with the 840 parts. As you can see in the old gearbox photo above, the original crankshaft was destroyed from running with a loose clutch, what you can't see was that the previous owner put it together with some JB weld, well that didn't work. The crank case cover that came on the 1-76 was broken and someone had tried t glue it back together with JB weld, that didn't work either.
Mark
I picked up this 1954 Model 47 saw about a year and a half ago. Finally got around to pulling it out of the box tonight. According to the service record (and the guy I got it from) the last time it ran was in 1973. A quick once over revealed a very dirty and clogged carb, whatever gas was in it has evaporated away over the past 40 years, and a sticky recoil. Otherwise it is in quite good shape. It looks as if it had very little use. I pulled the plug out and it was covered in storage oil, gave the cord a tug to see if there was spark..... And POW loads of it! So a little tickle with a drop of gas direct in the cylinder, and it roared back to life!! I am super impressed. I am going to pull out the carb, and fuel tank this week and give it a nice clean up. Cant wait to sink this beast into some wood.
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