McCulloch Chain Saws

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The flywheel that was on the 1-76 had a three broken fins. The flywheel on the saw now came from the 840 but had been painted silver over the dirt and yellow paint so I blasted it clean then hit it with some silver paint again.

I did replace the seal on the PTO side, the flywheel side had the double seals like you find on so many of the super series engines and the looked pretty good so I left them alone. Not sure where this crankshaft and cover came from but they were in the box with the 840 parts. As you can see in the old gearbox photo above, the original crankshaft was destroyed from running with a loose clutch, what you can't see was that the previous owner put it together with some JB weld, well that didn't work. The crank case cover that came on the 1-76 was broken and someone had tried t glue it back together with JB weld, that didn't work either.

Mark
I haven't contributed to this topic before, although I've followed it for a couple of years.
What makes me speak up is Mark's rebuild here.
I just did an 895 last winter, including the gearbox, actually an 895 with a 101 cylinder.
I replaced all the bearings and seals in the saw. All the bearings were easy to find off the shelf. I also got off the shelf seals except for the starter shaft seal. I spent a lot of time looking for that one, and was on the verge of having some custom made when I found an nos seal. I can not find my notes with all the numbers right now, but I''l keep looking.
There are a couple of places in the US that will built seals to custom specs.
The 840 gear box is slightly different than the one from the 1-82. They changed the casting for the auto oiler, so the case half gaskets are different .
I found an nos gasket, and sent one, along with some others to Cheap Chainsaw Parts, I believe that's the right place, in Marysville, Washington.
He has access to a gasket cutting machine to reproduce the gaskets, he may have them available now.

The two bearings on the output shaft are the same, except one is sealed and the other is open, actually, the one on the sprocket side is sealed on the outside and open on the inside, so you can get by with an old seal on that one. Otherwise, considering the cost, not putting new, and bearings for that matter, in at rebuild is penny wise and pound foolish. Many timber fallers used to replace the bearings and seals on their saws every week-end before heading to town.


Carl
As far as seals, I'd use new off the shelf parts over nos if possible, I learned a long time ago not to trust a rubber part more than 10 years old.
 
I haven't contributed to this topic before, although I've followed it for a couple of years.
What makes me speak up is Mark's rebuild here.
I just did an 895 last winter, including the gearbox, actually an 895 with a 101 cylinder.
I replaced all the bearings and seals in the saw. All the bearings were easy to find off the shelf. I also got off the shelf seals except for the starter shaft seal. I spent a lot of time looking for that one, and was on the verge of having some custom made when I found an nos seal. I can not find my notes with all the numbers right now, but I''l keep looking.
There are a couple of places in the US that will built seals to custom specs.
The 840 gear box is slightly different than the one from the 1-82. They changed the casting for the auto oiler, so the case half gaskets are different .
I found an nos gasket, and sent one, along with some others to Cheap Chainsaw Parts, I believe that's the right place, in Marysville, Washington.
He has access to a gasket cutting machine to reproduce the gaskets, he may have them available now.

The two bearings on the output shaft are the same, except one is sealed and the other is open, actually, the one on the sprocket side is sealed on the outside and open on the inside, so you can get by with an old seal on that one. Otherwise, considering the cost, not putting new, and bearings for that matter, in at rebuild is penny wise and pound foolish. Many timber fallers used to replace the bearings and seals on their saws every week-end before heading to town.


Carl
As far as seals, I'd use new off the shelf parts over nos if possible, I learned a long time ago not to trust a rubber part more than 10 years old.


I'd like to see some pic's of your 895 with the 101 cylinder.
I did a geardrive with a 101 in it as well. What a monster
saw it is.


Lee
 
Well, gotta find something to screw with now that the SP80 is done...

Picked up a practically junk 850...if there is such a thing...it is just plain rough.

Stripped it down to the block, knowing the piston was scored:


B config, seems to be pretty common...pistons are easy to find too.

279690d1361120136-850-cyl-b-jpg

View attachment 279690

Like so many others, looks good from this side.

279691d1361120222-850-looks-good-not-jpg

View attachment 279691

I have to say I was a little surprised by how clean the oil tank was, look at the cap threads...they look like they were just machined. This is without any cleaning whatsoever.

279692d1361120282-850-oil-tank-new-jpg

View attachment 279692

This has to be a replacement block....does not look like a Mac sealing job.

279696d1361120452-850-clutch-side-jpg

View attachment 279696

What a shame....

279698d1361120745-850-ex-jpg

View attachment 279698

So, almost ready to take a trip down acid lane. Ebay for a NOS piston, then headed the right direction...

-Andy
 
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Yeah Lee, I'm hoping for the best...

I have seen other engines scored that bad, and others were like that from a needle bearing etc.

For what its worth, it does turn over ok with no grinding or anything.

It didn't cost much so I'm ok with it either way, but would prefer a future runner obviously.

-Andy
 
flier - when I am working on a project that I will be using on a regular basis I make a little extra effort to replace everything but this one will be a GTG saw only at the most. Of all the old McCullochs I have torn down only one or two had bad seals so I have a lot of confidence in these particularly since the side cover was used very little.

I will be working on a 101AA project one of these days and will make sure that it gets everything it needs. Ideally that one will become a hot saw that I will run at Baraboo once a year.

Mark
 
I've got a model 35 I picked up in barely running order. Didn't take a whole lot to get it usable, but still needs a kill switch. The previous owner put a zip tie on the plug wire.
 
Start up advice on 10-10?

So I got the 10-10 a friend sent home with me cleaned up to the point where I want to try to start it. According to him it hasn't ran in about a year or so. It was so caked I wonder if the magneto could get a spark out. I didn't check the spark before I cleaned it but now it has a nice white spark.

The plug is a DJ8J which isn't the one listed on Acres and it was gapped to .022 not .025 which isn't much of a difference. Is this plug acceptable for it to run on?

I have a few questions now that I want to try to start and run it.

1. I don't have the bar nuts to hold on the chainbrake and no bar and chain. Will it hurt anything to start and run it a bit with no bar/chain/chainbrake on it?

2. Do I need to pour a little gas in the carb to "prime" the system?

3. Should I pour a little mix in it, slosh it around and then put it out to clean the tank before I put mix in it to try to run it on?

Thanks for any help here.

Picture for posterity.

yqanyhan.jpg
 
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DJ8J is correct for that saw.

Bar nuts are 5/16"-24. You won't hurt anything running without the bar and chain but don't get carried away running WOT to adjust the carburetor until you have some load on it.

A little prime can never hurt, but if it has been setting you should make sure there are no insects or rodents inside before you start it. Pour a little mix right down the spark plug hole as well as in the carburetor and pull it over a few times to get everything lubed up before you run it.

If the tank is dirty, by all means rinse it out.

Mark
 
Can anyone identify which 10-10 series saw this is. I have the opportunity to pick it up quite cheaply.
View attachment 279828

Many thanks,

Lee:rock:

It looks a lot like a Super 2-10A (or maybe 5-10A or 6-10A) that's had the tank top and AF cover spraypainted yellow. 'Custom' AV padding added too (along with the linoleum bar cover). The full wrap handlebar sure has my attention. I thought those were only available on the AV saws (CP70, SP70, SP80/81/PM850/PM800/PM805/DE80). Other than the padding.......that doesn't look like an AV saw to me. It has the combo kill switch/throttle lock/decomp thumb button, as well as the pivot bracket for the DSP valve on the cylinder...
 
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I think that full wrap is from a later model...don't the full wraps for the right hand start models clearance the clutch cover more, allowing more hand room?

Still looks good, I think I'm going to put a full wrap on my 5-10E...but I only have the left hand start version (of the handle).

Eccentric, I'd love that 650...it's just bad-a$$...but I'm a little cash poor right now unfortunately!

-Andy
 
Handles from the anti-vibe saws (SP70/80/81 & PM800 805 850) won't fit the non anti-vibe saws as the height is different. There were two different full wraps for the anti-vibe saws, one with greater clearance for models equipped with chain brake and the other with less clearance that came standard on non chain brake equipped models.

The only non anti-vibe saws that routinely came with the full wrap were the 5-10 models. The 5-10 were right hand start with the DSP valve, looks like Lee's find could be a 5-10?

Mark
 
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Looks like this might show up on ebay soon. He makes a video every time he sells something.
[video=youtube;2A4tFV9jtxU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2A4tFV9jtxU&feature=em-uploademail[/video]
 
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