McCulloch Chain Saws

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After realizing I built up the wrong bp1, I now have built a model matching the January ipl. She breathed fire last night after some help from Parker Jameson. I was using a Sig-01 ignition chip and Parker suggested a Nova2 due to the polarity of the Flywheel magnets being not very consistent and the ability to just flip the wires on the nova chip.

I wanted to show off ,as we all do when we're proud of our accomplishments, and show some of the literature I have acquired since learning about these saws. That spec sheet is the absolute coolest things imo.

Also shown in the last picture is the bp1 I have rebuilt as stated matching the January of 62 ipl, beside it is the bp1 from Mark Garris that appears to match the October of 62 ipl, subtle differences in the 2 if you look closely. More pictures side by side will be shown once the October model is rebuilt in the coming weeks.

Yall have a good weekend its time for me to make wood chips
I take it these photos are the culmination of a LOT of effort! Very impressive.

Really like the font of the embossed McCulloch on the sides!
 
More questions 😁
1 - Swapping out the flywheel and cleaning and wanted to know if my assumption that this is excess seal that squirted out and I shouldn't worry about the crank seal?
2 - What is this for? A thick cable (1/4") from the lower AV mount (also not found in the IPL) to the lower brace.
3a and 3b - The IPL I have is from Leon's Chainsaw Parts and Repair and the model numbers match the tag on my saw. Any thoughts?
Thanks everyone!
 

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Steve - 1) That is just some excess silicone from assembly 2) The wire is the ground wire that would normally run from the center of the top/front mount on the oil tank to one leg of the front mount at the fuel tank to provide a ground for the kill switch. That is an interesting alternative solution. 3) As has been noted, your saw has been put together from different bit and pieces, the fuel tank at least came from an SP81. Not everything is original or in the original location.

Squareground, you will find the performace of that saw is pretty impressive. I think a PM850 in good condition is the best of the 82cc models.

Mark
 
As mark stated thats the ground cable mentioned by jethro and myself. It would normally be at the front antivibe as stated. Ive made a few of my own over the years so the kill switch works and you dont get that "tingly" feeling mentioned. Haha
That is an interesting spot to ground it. But hey whatever works right? That cable looks like one on a sp125.
 
Any recommendations on air filter cleaning? You can barely see any light going through it. My biggest concern is keeping the flocking from being damaged and leaving me with just the wire screen.
I would have thought some compressed air, then soaking in (dish)soapy water and maybe a date with a soft brush... or maybe I have no flocking idea. :innocent:
 
Steve - 1) That is just some excess silicone from assembly 2) The wire is the ground wire that would normally run from the center of the top/front mount on the oil tank to one leg of the front mount at the fuel tank to provide a ground for the kill switch. That is an interesting alternative solution. 3) As has been noted, your saw has been put together from different bit and pieces, the fuel tank at least came from an SP81. Not everything is original or in the original location.

Squareground, you will find the performace of that saw is pretty impressive. I think a PM850 in good condition is the best of the 82cc models.

Mark
On #2 Right or wrong on a rebuild I usually place the ground strap there on the bottom brace Mark. I don't like the look of it on the tank. Go figure.
 
Having a problem with my throttle linkage disconnecting from the trigger. I think I just need to remove the carb, pull out the rod and give it a tweak to get it lined up better. I haven't started because I can't figure out how to remove the choke linkage. On 10-10's, I remove that first - it's right there where you can see it but on the SP81 the connection is buried.
I also plan to rebuild the carb while I have it out. Any advice on removing it. I know the intake is different but the carb mount looks to be the same. Also any mistakes I can avoid?
 

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While I'm waiting for feedback on my last post I have a new question 😂
Unable to get the manual fuel pump working. Any tips on how to get it started? On old 610's and 10-10's I've worked on, if I just kept pumping it would eventually start but that hasn't worked yet on the SP81. Everything feels and sounds fine. It pumps and returns well and yes, it has oil in it. I didn't want to pull the face off incase you guys had easier ideas to try.
 

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