MS200T clutch side crank seal question

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Tomorrow start again the saw with the L one turn and see how react, as my friend lonewolf say maybe a small leak somewhere , but in cold start 3-4 pulls and then 2 pulls and the saw start show that the saw is ok , but for be more sure take a look again.

Yeah, I think the saw is basically sound. But for some reason it definitely gets starved of fuel at some point in the cold start process. My gut feeling tells me CARBURETTOR since if I then fidget with that I get a result.

When you guys say small leak, could it be something as simple as not bolting the filter housing (and hence carb) nuts not tight enough?

When I see how small the threads are on these saws I tend to go VERY easy on the tightness. Perhaps I need to carefully tighten these down a tad more....
 
Yeah, I think the saw is basically sound. But for some reason it definitely gets starved of fuel at some point in the cold start process. My gut feeling tells me CARBURETTOR since if I then fidget with that I get a result.

When you guys say small leak, could it be something as simple as not bolting the filter housing (and hence carb) nuts not tight enough?

When I see how small the threads are on these saws I tend to go VERY easy on the tightness. Perhaps I need to carefully tighten these down a tad more....
How tight did you go on the cyl mounting bolts? Re check them they should be very snug.
 
How tight did you go on the cyl mounting bolts? Re check them they should be very snug.

Think I'm ok there. I bought a small torque wrench and torqued them to the manual's recommended spec of 10Nm.

I was pretty careful with the crank case screws though, them being M4. I did them tight as I dare - I didn't use the wrench, as was unsure it would get it right, just did them 'bout as tight as I'd do the oil pump.
 
Think I'm ok there. I bought a small torque wrench and torqued to manual req spec of 10Nm.

I was pretty careful with the crank case screws though, them being M4. I did them tight as I dare, 'bout as tight as I'd do the oil pump.
I crank them down as hard as a Wiha Tee wrench will allow almost. Well you got a bad carb or an air leak you choose where to start. Meanwhile start checking the bolts.
 
I crank them down as hard as a Wiha Tee wrench will allow almost. Well you got a bad carb or an air leak you choose where to start. Meanwhile start checking the bolts.

Yeah, I'm just gonna check the nuts that hold the carb first.

I'm sure the cyl mounting bolts are good.

Then I'll prob play with the acc pump block off this weekend.

If still stuck, I'll get a mityvac (I think!) and test for crankcase/seal issues. We'll see....
 
Yeah, I'm just gonna check the nuts that hold the carb first.

I'm sure the cyl mounting bolts are good.

Then I'll prob play with the acc pump block off this weekend.

If still stuck, I'll get a mityvac (I think!) and test for crankcase/seal issues. We'll see....
Sounds like you will be busy.
 
Yeah, I think the saw is basically sound. But for some reason it definitely gets starved of fuel at some point in the cold start process. My gut feeling tells me CARBURETTOR since if I then fidget with that I get a result.

When you guys say small leak, could it be something as simple as not bolting the filter housing (and hence carb) nuts not tight enough?

When I see how small the threads are on these saws I tend to go VERY easy on the tightness. Perhaps I need to carefully tighten these down a tad more....

sometimes the needle leverage number 2 dont moove freely to rod number 1, because the base number 3 is a little tight , so the needle can not moove freely , take a look and in this
 

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Progress report:

Got home today and tightened the carb/filter housing nuts down by about another 1/2 to 3/4 turns just using the screwdriver handle with 8mm socket. Guess that pulls the carb tighter to the intake boot flange. I left the L screw set at 1+3/4 turns from the other day. It started fine without leaning out and stalling on half choke/throttle.

More news:

I'm seriously considering buying a mityvac mitmv 8500 vacuum/pressure test kit, so that if anything else goes wrong, then I can test stuff properly!
 
sometimes the needle leverage number 2 dont moove freely to rod number 1, because the base number 3 is a little tight , so the needle can not moove freely , take a look and in this

Interesting. When I took the carb apart I did move these parts, since I was going to change needle. But I decided the old one did not look all that worn, and also the new one's tip was a slightly different colour than the old. (LoneWolf later reassured me that this doesn't matter, though).
 
Yeah, I'm just gonna check the nuts that hold the carb first.

I'm sure the cyl mounting bolts are good.

Then I'll prob play with the acc pump block off this weekend.

If still stuck, I'll get a mityvac (I think!) and test for crankcase/seal issues. We'll see....
OHHHH come on now man .................... mityvac , if you want to be a in the club must only take the stihl pressure-vacuum pump what mityvac are you told me about ?
$_35.JPG

and of course and the stihl compression tester
images
 
OHHHH come on now man .................... mityvac , if you want to be a in the club must only take the stihl pressure-vacuum pump what mityvac are you told me about ?
$_35.JPG

and of course and the stihl compression tester
images

Really? Mityvac gets good reviews on amazon. And it's only £70. I'm sure stihl stuff is better, but prob costs a lot more.

Considering I'm an occasional user/hobbyist I don't know whether I can justify the extra cost.

Come on, guys, what's the general opinion on mityvac mv8500, for a chainsaw hobbyist? Please shout out!
 
Well I had quick look on AS about mityvac mv8500...

Most people are singing it's praise. Including a young man called Pantelis, see:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mityvac.266346/#post-5029910

:happybanana:
Ok i stop the fun , the mityvac is a perfect tool, a professional tool , that everyone include me strongly recomend you can use it all day every day without any problem .
the husqvarnas oem pump is mytivac.
the stihl that you see in the picture first cost about 400 dollars or euros the fun is that is not stihl , the stihl compression tester the same, and cost about 100 and the fun again is that dont have SCHRADER VALVE at the end , so no accurate results.
buy mityvac 8500 , i have it i use it no problem accurate results everytime . its a perfect tool
 
Lets see if we can wake him up...what time is it in Eastern Europe ?
20150707_153750_zpsavo6uomq.jpg
The time now is 23: 15
Nice tool catalogue its the old edition , there that writte 2011-05 must writte 2014 - 11 , so tell to your friend dealer to keep this for him and give you the new one.
see the picture and you understand ;) :):)
 

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Progress report:

Got home today and tightened the carb/filter housing nuts down by about another 1/2 to 3/4 turns just using the screwdriver handle with 8mm socket. Guess that pulls the carb tighter to the intake boot flange. I left the L screw set at 1+3/4 turns from the other day. It started fine without leaning out and stalling on half choke/throttle.

More news:

I'm seriously considering buying a mityvac mitmv 8500 vacuum/pressure test kit, so that if anything else goes wrong, then I can test stuff properly!
That is a lot more you turned it , sounds like that was the leak. Aint these saws fun?
 
The time now is 23: 15
Nice tool catalogue its the old edition , there that writte 2011-05 must writte 2014 - 11 , so tell to your friend dealer to keep this for him and give you the new one.
see the picture and you understand ;) :):)

2011-15...
its the new edition.... :)
you Europeans write day/month/year all messed up....

Us "Mericans do it RIGHT !!!

:laugh:
 
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