MS200T clutch side crank seal question

[MattG]

Idle is a tad low .

yeah, I'll tweak stuff once I get it all properly back together. Just hope it's not got that accelerator pump disease. I suppose it takes a few hours of use to discover that? Correct?

(I hardly used it at all when I first got it, I knew it needed work... it was "sold" like that...)

 

[lone wolf]

yeah, I'll tweak stuff once I get it all properly back together. Just hope it's not got that accelerator pump disease. I suppose it takes a few hours of use to discover that? Correct?

(I hardly used it at all when I first got it, I knew it needed work... it was "sold" like that...)

They usually act up soon. It aint hard to fix that sounded OK anyway.

 

[pantelis]

It's always fun when you rebuild a saw over the Internet from an ocean away ....

Cheers!!!!

Telemedicine my friend

 

[lone wolf]

Telemedicine my friend

Hey what is going on with the banks there? PM me.

 

[pantelis]

Hey what is going on with the banks there? PM me.

will be hirosima number 2 , not good things, we will see

 

[MattG]

Well, rebuilding it was a good learning exercise. Next time I'll probably get some kind of vacuum test equipment first, though. For my hobby stuff, I don't need a very pricey one, I don't think.

And I guess I need to get some steel and a decent pillar/pedestal drill to make blanking plates, 'cos I certainly not planning on spending any money on them!

 

[lone wolf]

Well, rebuilding it was a good learning exercise. Next time I'll probably get some kind of vacuum test equipment first, though. For my hobby stuff, I don't need a very pricey one, I don't think.

And I guess I need to get some steel and a decent pillar/pedestal drill to make blanking plates, 'cos I certainly not planning on spending any money on them!

Exhaust block off is just a steel or aluminum thin plate. Intake I make from an old rubber intake boot blocked with silicone.

 

[MattG]

Exhaust block off is just a steel or aluminum thin plate. Intake I make from an old rubber intake boot blocked with silicone.

Good idea with the old boot - I now have one of them from my ms200t. If I ever need/want to rebuild my ms341 I guess I'll need to make something up.

 

[MattG]

Hey guys,

I'm not 100% happy with the ms200t rebuild. I'm not an arborist so I don't have to use it a lot as such, but over the last couple of days, I've been trying to tune it's idle and such, and cut the odd log or two. Basically it cold starts a bit "weird". I started with the L screw out by 1 turn (standard), and find that when I cold start I get the good ol' cough on full choke after 4 pulls, then I switch to half choke/throttle as per usual, and in about 2 more pulls she fires but then the revs seem to die and it stalls, even if you gas it with the throttle. It just sounds like it's starved of fuel - not that I'm an expert.

To get it to actually run, I "need" (I think) to turn out the L screw to be richer. Then I do the cold start procedure again. So today I got it starting ok with the L screw out by 1 + 3/4 turns. Then it started just fine, I let it warm up, I adjusted the idle, cut an oak log and then after the cut the idle was really nice. And it warm started afterwards just fine. So I'm not sure (yet) whether it actually needs the L screw set 3/4 turns richer than standard, or whether I'm ending up "fiddling" with it to hide the real problem. I'm not really sure whether the issue was there before my rebuild, 'cos various other things were wrong - i.e. the handle housing was broken in such a way that half throttle didn't work. (I used to start it then, by turning the idle screw temporarily ).

I wondered whether any of you folk at AS think this sounds like the classic accelerator pump problem, or whether it's more likely that I did something wrong on my rebuild. I'll probably try starting it again when it's properly cold (tomorrow) with the L screw at 1+3/4 and see if it behaves or if it needs nursing along still.

thanks for reading!
Matt

P.S.
(I know I should have been more scientific before I started on this saw, but it will be a while till I get my garage sorted, and buy cheaply any pressure/vacuum testing kit.)

 

[lone wolf]

Bad carb or air leak if you dont have a known working carb to try all you can do is vac test the saw again then if its good buy another carb if you cant fix that one. Try the block off of the plate first like I said before.

 

[MattG]

Bad carb or air leak if you dont have a known working carb to try all you can do is vac test the saw again then if its good buy another carb if you cant fix that one. Try the block off of the plate first like I said before.

So does it sound like that accelerator pump thing?

Also when you say "Try the block off of the plate first like I said before" what exactly do you mean?

thanks
Matt

 

[lone wolf]

So does it sound like that accelerator pump thing?

Also when you say "Try the block off of the plate first like I said before" what exactly do you mean?

thanks
Matt

Hard to say just block it off and see if it fixes it . The plate, I mean the blocking off of the accelerator pump.

 

[MattG]

Hard to say just block it off and see if it fixes it . The plate, I mean the blocking off of the accelerator pump.

Oh you mean, do the work to block off the acc pump?

 

[MattG]

I did see this

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/200t-carbitooter-thread-official.145024/page-3

on post #55

I think you describe it a bit, is that what you mean?

 

[lone wolf]

Oh you mean, do the work to block off the acc pump?

Yes. Try that next. If that dont do it test the vac , if that passes buy a carb.

 

[MattG]

Yes. Try that next. If that dont do it test the vac , if that passes buy a carb.

Cool, thanks.

Can I bother you again sometime with details. That is, the "Lone Wolf" acc pump fix?

I mean, do you just knock the plate out with a punch, then glue the holes up?

 

[MattG]

Anyway, I'm also trying to ask AS uk guys (Dan) about the best/cheapest way to get good comp + vac test kit...

 

[Dan Forsh]

At least I know who snitched on me now

I've sent you a couple links on the mityvac stuff you can find in the UK, or otherwise suggested bits to build your own kit.

 

[pantelis]

Hey guys,

I'm not 100% happy with the ms200t rebuild. I'm not an arborist so I don't have to use it a lot as such, but over the last couple of days, I've been trying to tune it's idle and such, and cut the odd log or two. Basically it cold starts a bit "weird". I started with the L screw out by 1 turn (standard), and find that when I cold start I get the good ol' cough on full choke after 4 pulls, then I switch to half choke/throttle as per usual, and in about 2 more pulls she fires but then the revs seem to die and it stalls, even if you gas it with the throttle. It just sounds like it's starved of fuel - not that I'm an expert.

To get it to actually run, I "need" (I think) to turn out the L screw to be richer. Then I do the cold start procedure again. So today I got it starting ok with the L screw out by 1 + 3/4 turns. Then it started just fine, I let it warm up, I adjusted the idle, cut an oak log and then after the cut the idle was really nice. And it warm started afterwards just fine. So I'm not sure (yet) whether it actually needs the L screw set 3/4 turns richer than standard, or whether I'm ending up "fiddling" with it to hide the real problem. I'm not really sure whether the issue was there before my rebuild, 'cos various other things were wrong - i.e. the handle housing was broken in such a way that half throttle didn't work. (I used to start it then, by turning the idle screw temporarily ).

I wondered whether any of you folk at AS think this sounds like the classic accelerator pump problem, or whether it's more likely that I did something wrong on my rebuild. I'll probably try starting it again when it's properly cold (tomorrow) with the L screw at 1+3/4 and see if it behaves or if it needs nursing along still.

thanks for reading!
Matt

P.S.
(I know I should have been more scientific before I started on this saw, but it will be a while till I get my garage sorted, and buy cheaply any pressure/vacuum testing kit.)

Tomorrow start again the saw with the L one turn and see how react, as my friend lonewolf say maybe a small leak somewhere , but in cold start 3-4 pulls and then 2 pulls and the saw start show that the saw is ok , but for be more sure take a look again.

 

[pantelis]

Anyway, I'm also trying to ask AS uk guys (Dan) about the best/cheapest way to get good comp + vac test kit...

Try this is the cheapest that i find , think that i use it everyday no problem about one year now
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Druck-Messge...62?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item2c95c5788e