MS200T clutch side crank seal question

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see !!!!

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That is a lot more you turned it , sounds like that was the leak. Aint these saws fun?
Yup, it could've been. Only time will tell, I suppose. I remember having a motorbike when I was 18, which wouldn't start at all. Turned out that the bakelite spacer between the carb and engine had a tiny hairline crack in it and changing that fixed it.
 
Spoke too soon. It played it's trick again, when I got home - leaning out as it tries to rev on half choke/throttle. Tried with L screw at 1 turn out and 1+3/4 turns out. A complete mare, as we say over here.

The carb is off, the accelerator plug prized out, and JB-weld has been applied, hopefully in accord with Lone Wolf's pump block off technique.

Thought I'd try this before buying the mityvac, needing really to spend money on house first.

Guys, I think me and this ******* project are in it for the long haul....
 
Spoke too soon. It played it's trick again, when I got home - leaning out as it tries to rev on half choke/throttle. Tried with L screw at 1 turn out and 1+3/4 turns out. A complete mare, as we say over here.

The carb is off, the accelerator plug prized out, and JB-weld has been applied, hopefully in accord with Lone Wolf's pump block off technique.

Thought I'd try this before buying the mityvac, needing really to spend money on house first.

Guys, I think me and this ******* project are in it for the long haul....
Thats Ok it will run again. You may need a Mitivac soon depending on the next outcome.
 
You have the fuel filter and impulse line on right? Get the Mitivac next after trying the carb fix.
Yes, the impulse line is definitely on properly. And I put the fuel filter on the same way the old one came off. There certainly petrol in the carb. Regarding the pump block off with the jb weld, will it be hard enough to carb clean it tomorrow evening and reinstall?
 
Yes, the impulse line is definitely on properly. And I put the fuel filter on the same way the old one came off. There certainly petrol in the carb. Regarding the pump block off with the jb weld, will it be hard enough to carb clean it tomorrow evening and reinstall?
Quick weld or regular? One day is enough anyway.
 
Spoke too soon. It played it's trick again, when I got home - leaning out as it tries to rev on half choke/throttle. Tried with L screw at 1 turn out and 1+3/4 turns out. A complete mare, as we say over here.

The carb is off, the accelerator plug prized out, and JB-weld has been applied, hopefully in accord with Lone Wolf's pump block off technique.

Thought I'd try this before buying the mityvac, needing really to spend money on house first.

Guys, I think me and this ******* project are in it for the long haul....
Until you buy the mytivac ........... conect a fuel line to the carb and put it to a jar with water , then you can put some air to it, you can use your mouth , a bicycle pump , a compraised air tool , a balloοn , a big syringe , or something else and see if you see bubbles in the water and from where. then take of the needle valve cover and the diaphragms and do the same and see if you have bubbles from the needle. then block the saw muffler and carb ports, and deep it all to water see if have bubbles somewhere, use one of the above methods i prefair compraised air with low pressure , the same to the fuel tank, the only differnt is that you can not do a vacuum test like you can do with the pumps , but you see many things ( leaks ) if have
 
Until you buy the mytivac ........... conect a fuel line to the carb and put it to a jar with water , then you can put some air to it, you can use your mouth , a bicycle pump , a compraised air tool , a balloοn , a big syringe , or something else and see if you see bubbles in the water and from where. then take of the needle valve cover and the diaphragms and do the same and see if you have bubbles from the needle. then block the saw muffler and carb ports, and deep it all to water see if have bubbles somewhere, use one of the above methods i prefair compraised air with low pressure , the same to the fuel tank, the only differnt is that you can not do a vacuum test like you can do with the pumps , but you see many things ( leaks ) if have
That is very ingenious and will work in a pinch.
 
That is very ingenious and will work in a pinch.
i use it when i see that the pump loose after long time , yesterday i have a 026 that the pump loose after 3-4 minutes ( carb ) the 20 seconds that the manuals say dont cover me , i need over of 5 and more minutes . just a personal prefair
 
Until you buy the mytivac ........... conect a fuel line to the carb and put it to a jar with water , then you can put some air to it, you can use your mouth , a bicycle pump , a compraised air tool , a balloοn , a big syringe , or something else and see if you see bubbles in the water and from where. then take of the needle valve cover and the diaphragms and do the same and see if you have bubbles from the needle. then block the saw muffler and carb ports, and deep it all to water see if have bubbles somewhere, use one of the above methods i prefair compraised air with low pressure , the same to the fuel tank, the only differnt is that you can not do a vacuum test like you can do with the pumps , but you see many things ( leaks ) if have
I don't quite understand this, to be honest, but thankyou for trying.:)

I'll get the mityvac if this carb stuff fails (probably will :() Then I'm left with obtaining some metal plate to block the exhaust. To block the intake boot I was thinking of using an old socket (the last owner of our house left loads behind) filled with something and a hose clip to hold this snug into the boot.
 
How thick should the steel be to block exhaust? Is 2-3mm ok? I was going to ask the wife :heart::heart: to go to a scrap metal place. Then I'll cut it either with my grinder or hacksaw.
 
Where you need to make blanking plates, you would be better going with ally as it's going to be easier to cut and file if any finessing is required. 2-3mm will be plenty thick enough. I would bond some thin rubber to the clamping face to act as a gasket. on the exhaust, you generally use the exhaust to trap the blank off, so again something thin and rubber like. Even the proper Stihl kit just comes with an elongated triangle of rubber sheet 2mm ish thick for this purpose.

I'm not sure on the ms200, but on most stihls you could probably use a similar method to block the intake side with the carb and pressurise via the impulse nipple on the crankcase.
 

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