New to me 031AV

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I think I have decided against splitting the case....Just wanting a good way to clean it without hurting bearings, seals and so on....
 
I just got the box of parts from Mr b1rdman....

Almost an entire saw!!!! even a new piston and ring set :clap:


Thanks for the help b1rdman :clap:


Will post more when I get to look everything over......
 
Ok so I got started tonight putting a saw together from the parts of the two saws..Installed the the new piston and rings I got from b1rdman in the reconditioned cylinder... The zip ties did the trick and lots of Stihl 2 cycle.. Yup I even used a gasket...

That's when it went bad!!!!!!!!:jawdrop:



If you look at the saw from the exhaust port the cylinder screw on the left hand side is stripped!!!!!!

When I installed it I tightened all 4 screws evenly till they were snug. That's when I noticed this one felt loose....


So what is next????A bigger screw:bang:


As always all help will be appreciated thanks........
 
Bummer.

You'll probably have to take it apart again and find a tap for the next largest size (I don't know what that would be off hand), and run the tap through the hole....and obviously replace the bolt with one that matches the new hole size.
 
Here's what I prefer to use for thread repair:

http://www.afsrecoil.net/en/Products/Keysert.html

Those are WAY better than a Helicoil, since after the insert is threaded in, the little "pegs" are pounded in, thereby cutting through the threads and locking the insert in place permanently. They're much sturdier too, and thread in a lot easier than Helicoils. My neighbor is a machinist at a sawmill and got me a few, so I have no idea what brand they are, and they only have two pegs instead of four. They also have a slot across the top end so they can be threaded in with a regular flat screwdriver. I used two a couple months ago to re-do the muffler threads on my one 181SE's cylinder - they lined up perfectly and have held up very well.

Personally I always try to repair a stripped thread back to where I can use the original size again, though that's not always possible. For example, for the inserts I linked to above, you need a good 3/32" - 1/8" of extra material around the stripped hole so you can drill it out to accommodate the insert. It was cutting it VERY close with my 181SE, but I really had no other option since the muffler's mounting holes prevented me from being able to just go one size up from 1/4" to 5/16".

Just a word of caution though - magnesium can be brittle, so use lube when threading and make sure the hole is drilled to the correct size. If the tap is trying to cut too much material, it can "wedge" the hole and crack around it.
 
I do believe the original size is M5 x 0.8

You would have to drill then tap it out to M8 x1.25 for the inserts mentioned above. That would be my vote. Anything worth doing is worth doing right. What you will wind up in the end is a saw with more torque and the same horsepower as an 026/ms260.
 
I do believe the original size is M5 x 0.8

You would have to drill then tap it out to M8 x1.25 for the inserts mentioned above. That would be my vote. Anything worth doing is worth doing right. What you will wind up in the end is a saw with more torque and the same horsepower as an 026/ms260.

And a couple pounds more weight. :cheers: All in all though, a very good saw (other than spotty ignition) that is one of my favorite old Stihls. Mine can keep up to my other 45-55cc saws, and that's good enough for me.
 
Here is what I came up with and don't ask me why how it worked...

When I first tore down the 031 I bought I put all the screws in a dish. One thing I noticed was there were a lot of miss matched screws. Anyway I went threw them all and used the ones I needed to put birdmans now my new 031 back together...When I got to the cylinder screws they where the only 4 of the same allen screws in the pot...After I realized that the one was stripped I looked again in the dish I don't know what for I was just digging around.I found one and there was only one of the same type allen screw except it was just a little longer and it had a washer on it. I could not get the washer off but decided to try it anyway what could it hurt???Well for some reason it held tight..

Now the test will be when I figure out a way to torque it down...
The book says 8Nm If I am correct that is 5.9 ft-lbs...Now where do I find a allen wrench I can attach to my torque wrench???

For the carb I did like the book said 1.5 turns out for both screws. I have not messed with a carb before and it is making me the most apprehensive....I don't want to burn the piston on it's first run....

As always thanks for all the help.....
 
I've never bothered measuring when I torque bolts down in saws - and much like you, I'm not even sure how a guy would go about doing that for a lot of them. I just pretty much give it as much as I can with whatever tool I'm using - in the case of allen wrenches (since I don't have a T-handle set yet), I usually grab the short end with a pair of pliers or Vise-Grips for extra leverage. I've never had a cylinder bolt let go on me yet. Just can't go all Superman and really crank on them with a long-handled tool (like a torque wrench), since the soft magnesium will just tear out and strip.

1-1/4 turns out on the carb screws should keep you in the safe zone, no problem. BUT, I have yet to work on a saw that really ran at its best with both jets set exactly the same. Not to mention that you've completely torn down and rebuilt that saw, so the manufacturer's recommendations might not be optimal for this build. It takes a lot of practice to really be able to tune a carb by ear, but this guide over at Madsen's might be of use to you:

http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm
 
Last edited:
Any pics on the progress yet? I went out and bought a set of allen T handle and torx T handles. This makes it alot easier when tearing these saws down.
 
I've never bothered measuring when I torque bolts down in saws - and much like you, I'm not even sure how a guy would go about doing that for a lot of them. I just pretty much give it as much as I can with whatever tool I'm using - in the case of allen wrenches (since I don't have a T-handle set yet), I usually grab the short end with a pair of pliers or Vise-Grips for extra leverage. I've never had a cylinder bolt let go on me yet. Just can't go all Superman and really crank on them with a long-handled tool (like a torque wrench), since the soft magnesium will just tear out and strip.

1-1/4 turns out on the carb screws should keep you in the safe zone, no problem. BUT, I have yet to work on a saw that really ran at its best with both jets set exactly the same. Not to mention that you've completely torn down and rebuilt that saw, so the manufacturer's recommendations might not be optimal for this build. It takes a lot of practice to really be able to tune a carb by ear, but this guide over at Madsen's might be of use to you:

http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm



Thanks for the info... I was hoping for just what you said. They do make long hex head wrenches but they cost more then I have in the saw...




Any pics on the progress yet? I went out and bought a set of allen T handle and torx T handles. This makes it alot easier when tearing these saws down.


You asked :D

DSC03232.jpg


DSC03238.jpg


DSC03241.jpg


Still thinking about painting the muffler...
 
Folks I can not take credit for cleaning up this saw...It is pretty much the way I got it from b1rdman.....

We will see it I can get it to fire off today...
 
Well it was running on the 5th pull :clap:

I will need to have the carb set. I will let a pro do that...

Well thanks again b1rdman !!!!!!!!

Now to go clean the bar and mount it on....
 
Last edited:
Back
Top