Nik's Poulan Thread

[fossil]

Some idiot wants this ad flagged, says the saw is only worth $50...:msp_scared:..If I didn't already have a couple....opcorn:opcorn:..I am trying to educate the idiot, perhaps a waste of time...thought you guys might get a laugh out of it.

16" POULAN COUNTERVIBE 3400 CHAIN SAW

Shhhhhh! we know they're priceless.

 

[Eccentric]

Thanks, Tim. I knew it was a good saw, but most of them I've seen say Craftsman 3.4 or 3.7 or something, so you know which Poulan model it is a sister to - this one had no such markings. The Acres site also didn't list that Craftsman model number, so I was kind of at a loss.
Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll enjoy mine, too.

Give us the Sears model # off of it, it could be a 3400 or it could be a 3800 as well.

He did in his first post Mark. I checked the Sears IPL against the Poulan ring PN and it appears to be a 3400.

Looks to be in really nice condition.

The starter housing decal on that saw doesn't have "3.7-20" or anthing else on it. The only times I've seen those 'plain' decals on these Countervibes has been when I was looking at a Countervibe that was sold as a "3.0" (marked "3.0-16" on the bar). Those were the 'price point' saws...........with the 'bogus' downgraded displacement that we've discussed a few times before.

They're actually 3400's.......differing from a grey/black "3.4-16" labeled only in badging. It's like buying a "33cc" woodshark for $99 rather than a "42cc" WildThing for $149 when they're both actually 42cc.

 

[Modifiedmark]

He did in his first post Mark. I checked the Sears IPL against the Poulan ring PN and it appears to be a 3400.

Looks to be in really nice condition.

Sorry, I didnt notice that!

 

[Eccentric]

It's kinda hard to see in the pics..........but the muffler halves weren't assembled right. The front cover is supposed to fit within the rear can. The cover was not seated on the left side of the saw. You can see where leaking exhaust gasses had also burned/stained the paint on the crankcase. After I pulled the muffler to check the P/C (almost perfect) and see how choked up the muffler is (a MM is mandatory), it all fit together just fine. Wonder if it came that way from the factory. There's no evidence of anyone pulling the saw apart, but who knows?

I pulled the saw apart to get to the gas tank vent (prior owner said it was leaking fuel). The bronze vent plug is still in there..........................and I can't get the bastard out. Any suggestions? I uglied up the tank around that damn bronze thing trying to pick/pry it out........without success. I think I'll just drill a hole in the center of it and pull it out with a screw (then replace it with a new one). Seems like a waste, but the bronze plug is cheap. Managed to tear the end of the impulse line (nearest the cylinder), so I'll probably end up replaceing it. May just replace the intake boot while I'm in there, as I do NOT want to pull that tank off twice.

What's bugging me is that the fuel line looks to be a loose fit through the top of the tank. If THAT'S where it was really leaking (I was too dumb to put fuel in it to see where the leak was first) then I tore it down and am fighting with the vent plug for nothing (since I'm gonna replace that line). Oh well, it's good to get aquainted with the 'new' saw and get all that built up sawdust (dull chain........ moron owner) out. Will still replace the duckbill as once again........I don't wanna do this twice. Saw that both of the lower AV isolators are torn through in the center. Will replace those too....

Yep the name on the bar means little to me at all. Whatever works I say.

You got lucky when you tore up your impulse line, those needed replaced from the factory if you ask me.

Those fuel lines shrink up from ethanol exposure and leak for sure, replace them with a good Oregon or at least genuine Tygon line.

I think I used 1/8 x 3/16 lines on those but not sure as I remember the 330 carb had a bigger inlet barb on them then did the others like the 305 335 and 365.

The bronze plug...... Yep you need to drill it out and pull it with a screw, like you say there cheap! Dont dig around on it any more and please post a picture of whats under that plug will you?

Drilled the vent plug and pulled it with a screw. Like I suspected...........the duckbill looks fine. Could have just gotten away with a fuel line replacement. Oh well. The lower rubber AV isolators look to be torn.......so I guess I needed to tear it apart anyways. The area around the vent plug bore in the tank looks more 'chewed' in the pic than it actually is.

Intake boot looks good. Impulse line is crap. I agree with you.....that impulse line was crap from the factory. Will replace it. Carb is an HDA164. Glad to see it's not a 137....just in case it decided to be one of the bad ones.

These AV isolators are supposed to have those steel washers bonded to them correct? When I pulled the saw apart, the washers were attached to the plastic tank assembly, and the isolators were held in the crankcase casting by those retainer plug things. I'm guessing that the washers have torn free of the AV isolators.

Well guys it just gets better and better. The 330 I recently bought off evil bay had a perfect piston when I pulled the muffler. There is a member here that Pm'd me about buying it and I put a price on it we agreed to but I had to go through it first and I made the decision to pull the jug and remove the base gasket, now this is where things get real interesting........It is not a 54cc 330 but a 49mm Super 380 jug with the improved ports. It is not getting a port job but would be a fine candidate.

Just goes to show with Poulan there was no rhyme or reason for what they did but sometimes you get more than what you paid for. BTW, this saw is perfect inside and the only problem I've found is the vent was messed up. I will be repairing this by using the old style vent through the top of the tank with the extra line and plugging the side vent by tapping and installing a flush allen head set screw with motoseal on it. I figure this should be good forever........

I'm thinking about 'retrofitting' my PP330 (which actually is a 54cc PP330, unlike yours you lucky dog) with the earlier style (and 3400-4000 style) 'second hose' vent in the top of the tank and plugging the 'new fangled' side vent like you're going to do. It's just plain STUPID to have to pull the saw 1/2 way apart just to service a tank vent.

Despite the few minor things that I'm not crazy about, I'm pretty impressed with these saws. Now to keep my eye out for a 60cc PP365/PP380/3750 version...

 

[Modifiedmark]

So Arron, the duckbill just sets in the tank on a flange, no holder for it. OK, got it.

As for the carb, I hate to tell ya but the 137 is the one that never gave troubles, it was the 164 that did but I think it was just the very last bunch of them. What year saw is that one?

 

[Eccentric]

So Aaron, the duckbill just sets in the tank on a flange, no holder for it. OK, got it.

As for the carb, I hate to tell ya but the 137 is the one that never gave troubles, it was the 164 that did but I think it was just the very last bunch of them. What year saw is that one?

Yep. There's a recess for the duckbill, and the bronze plug (which was REALLY in there) holds it in place.

I thought the 137 was the 'bad' one. The current replacements listed by Poulan are the 164's. Rats. Hope it's a good 'un...

I don't know what year the saw is, as all the decals on the tank and top cover are gone...

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yep. There's a recess for the duckbill, and the bronze plug (which was REALLY in there) holds it in place.

I thought the 137 was the 'bad' one. The current replacements listed by Poulan are the 164's. Rats. Hope it's a good 'un...

I don't know what year the saw is, as all the decals on the tank and top cover are gone...

Well, FWIW, when the dealer ordered the replacement carb for my 330 it showed a 164. What arrived from Poulan was a 137.

 

[Eccentric]

something like this??:msp_biggrin::msp_biggrin::msp_biggrin:

There's a 3800 in my 'local' CL for $50..............but it's not really local. More like 3 hours one way for me.:bang:

In my earlier post I was refering to the series of saws that my PP330 belongs to though. I'd like to find a 60cc version of those saws. I'm wanting to see what the all fuss about those fancy Italian cylinders is...

Now that you mention it however..................I'd like to find a nice PP395/375, 4000, 3700, or 3800 Poulan. I have a red Craftsman 3.4 labeled 3400 (with a scored P/C) that I'm going to do a 'gound up' rebuild on with a good P/C from my parts 3400......unless I find a good used 3700, 3800, or 4000 top end to use instead.

A few months ago there was a really cherry looking Craftsman red 3700 or 3800 (couldn't see the Sears M# to know which Poulan it crossed to) on my 'local' CL........but it was also about three hours away. Couldn't get to that one before it was gone. There's a pattern here. Almost every cool Poulan that's been listed in my 'local' CL has been in the same area (San Jose, Ca). So far it's been the 3800, that 3.7, a 245A, and a cherry Dayton branded 245SA. Strange...

 

[Eccentric]

Well, FWIW, when the dealer ordered the replacement carb for my 330 it showed a 164. What arrived from Poulan was a 137.

Interesting. All the online Poulan parts outlets list the 164 as the replacement. I wonder what would come if someone ordered a replacement carb now. Hoping I don't need to find out...

 

[Eccentric]

FYI There is a Tim Allen edition on Northern Michigan CL for $125

I am up to my elbows in Earthquakes at the moment....blew my saw budget for the week..or....don't ask..and whatever you do don't look at that thread...

I saw Scott's thread (if that's the one you're refering to) early on. You guys went hog wild on them chicom echo clones....

That 3750 TA would be too much $$ for me to mess with right now once shipping was factored in (if the seller'd even ship). Hopefully I'll land a local one or have the same kind of luck you had on ebay. If I DO end up with a TA version..............I'd probably have to put aside the purple top cover and carb cover and original bar (for collector purposes....LOL) and replace them with basic black. I can't bring myself to own/run a purple chainsaw. The guys I cut with would NEVER let me live it down.:jester:

 

[Modifiedmark]

Interesting. I wonder what would come if someone ordered a replacement carb now. Hoping I don't need to find out...

I told ya, a 137 is what came for me!

 

[Eccentric]

I told ya, a 137 is what came for me!

LOL. I'm sorry Mark. I thought that was a number of years ago................like when the PP330 was new. Didn't realize you'd ordered the carb recently.

 

[simmslumber66]

I saw Scott's thread (if that's the one you're refering to) early on. You guys went hog wild on them chicom echo clones....

That 3750 TA would be too much $$ for me to mess with right now once shipping was factored in (if the seller'd even ship). Hopefully I'll land a local one or have the same kind of luck you had on ebay. If I DO end up with a TA version..............I'd probably have to put aside the purple top cover and carb cover and original bar (for collector purposes....LOL) and replace them with basic black. I can't bring myself to own/run a purple chainsaw. The guys I cut with would NEVER let me live it down.:jester:

Just let 'em know purple is the color of royalty. But you're right, purple don't belong on a chainsaw!

 

[Modifiedmark]

LOL. I'm sorry Mark. I thought that was a number of years ago................like when the PP330 was new. Didn't realize you'd ordered the carb recently.

Well its been a year or so, thats recently aint it?

 

[Wagnerwerks]

The starter housing decal on that saw doesn't have "3.7-20" or anthing else on it. The only times I've seen those 'plain' decals on these Countervibes has been when I was looking at a Countervibe that was sold as a "3.0" (marked "3.0-16" on the bar). Those were the 'price point' saws...........with the 'bogus' downgraded displacement that we've discussed a few times before.

They're actually 3400's.......differing from a grey/black "3.4-16" labeled only in badging. It's like buying a "33cc" woodshark for $99 rather than a "42cc" WildThing for $149 when they're both actually 42cc.

I have one that is exactly like that with no markings and it is a 3800. They made both that looked identical. Mine is a 358.356091 and lists as a 3800 acording to the ipl. They made a pile of these as I have run into a few more in my limited travels through cad in the last short, but missing year of my life...lol

 

[Modifiedmark]

Aaron, I forgot to show you this one that I found.

Vintage Craftsman Pro Chainsaw 20" Bar Clean Original Paint Runs Excellent | eBay

 

[OhioGregg]

Mark,
Do you have any advice on what NOT to use an abrasive blaster on, or what to use stripper on or not? My cousin has a nice Snap-On blast cabinet I was thinking of using on my 5200 project. I think he said all he has used so far was glass beads.

Whats the easiest or best way to remove old decals? Your 8500 paint job is looking good.:msp_thumbup:
While I'm thinking about it. I saw some black paint, semi gloss of sorts I guess, from Eastwood, called under-hood black. Thought that might be good for the top cover on a 5200. I guess its for painting under the hood brackets , braces, radiator shrouds etc. Any advise on that?


Gregg,

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Mark,
Do you have any advice on what NOT to use an abrasive blaster on, or what to use stripper on or not? My cousin has a nice Snap-On blast cabinet I was thinking of using on my 5200 project. I think he said all he has used so far was glass beads.

Whats the easiest or best way to remove old decals? Your 8500 paint job is looking good.:msp_thumbup:
While I'm thinking about it. I saw some black paint, semi gloss of sorts I guess, from Eastwood, called under-hood black. Thought that might be good for the top cover on a 5200. I guess its for painting under the hood brackets , braces, radiator shrouds etc. Any advise on that?


Gregg,

Sorry, not mark, but i grew up in a body shop. does that count? Glass bead is perfect for paint removal with low intrusion. It cleans the metal more than etches it. I personally love using it for paint prep. If I were you guys restoring saws I'd be buying a gallon of two part single stage urethane and shooting them with that. It looks very much like the original paint when laid on with a gun and is very durable. A little would go a long way and after all the work your putting into these, it would be worth it.

 

[Eccentric]

Just let 'em know purple is the color of royalty. But you're right, purple don't belong on a chainsaw!

Yeah if a 3750TA comes my way, I'll spend the $15 plus shipping to get some black plastic and stick the purple bits in a box 'for the future' when that saw is worth untold riches...

Well its been a year or so, thats recently aint it?

Yep. That's recent. Was thinking it was more like 10 years ago....

 

[simmslumber66]

Uhh, oops!

I am apparently suffering from some sort of memory loss that was brought on by either age or excessive use of alcohol (or both). I am now the "proud?" owner of a small indistinguishable (as of yet) yellow poulan. Anyone got any idea what this may be?