Nik's Poulan Thread

[OhioGregg]

Sorry, not mark, but i grew up in a body shop. does that count? Glass bead is perfect for paint removal with low intrusion. It cleans the metal more than etches it. I personally love using it for paint prep. If I were you guys restoring saws I'd be buying a gallon of two part single stage urethane and shooting them with that. It looks very much like the original paint when laid on with a gun and is very durable. A little would go a long way and after all the work your putting into these, it would be worth it.

Glad to hear that the glass beads is the way to go. He does auto restorations. Said it seems to work well, not to aggressive. I probably won't be doing any painting till warm weather arrives. Don't have a nice heated shop. Haven't decide on green paint yet. I have the paint mix numbers written down somewhere that Brad used when he did his. I think its just enamel with hardener added. Price was what I liked.


Gregg,

 

[Eccentric]

Aaron, I forgot to show you this one that I found.

Vintage Craftsman Pro Chainsaw 20" Bar Clean Original Paint Runs Excellent | eBay

Thanks for the link Mark. That thing is CHERRY. He listed it once about a year ago (with the same ALL CAPS story about his Dad) for something like $150 BIN. I'd been waiting for him to relist, but he never did (until now).

That's a lotta cheddar for a S25-CVA........even if it is THE variant I've been looking for. Luckily for me and my bank account............one of our Canadian brothers just found me a 2.3PS/VL in a 'group buy' of saws. It'll be making its way to me from the great white north sometime next month.

My Canadian friend was even thoughtful enough to shoot some pics for me and put together an album. Thanks Tim!

Aarons saw Photos by Fossil1 | Photobucket

 

[OhioGregg]

I am apparently suffering from some sort of memory loss that was brought on by either age or excessive use of alcohol (or both). I am now the "proud?" owner of a small indistinguishable (as of yet) yellow poulan. Anyone got any idea what this may be?

Just a wild azz guess on my part...maybe PP295?


Gregg,

 

[Eccentric]

Just a wild azz guess on my part...maybe PP295?


Gregg,

That's what I was thinking. Could also be a PP255 or PP275.

 

[simmslumber66]

Just a wild azz guess on my part...maybe PP295?


Gregg,

That's the only pic I got since I don't have the saw yet. I'll let you know when i get it. I THOUGHT I had just looked at this saw, butapparently I felt the NEED to buy it. Well, at least it was cheap...

 

[OhioGregg]

That's what I was thinking. Could also be a PP255 or PP275.

Yup, I don't own any of that series, so I'm just guessing, they confuse me. Kinda like Sears Craftsman model #'s give me a headache! Or, maybe its just my old geezer showing again.


Gregg,

 

[Modifiedmark]

Mark,
Do you have any advice on what NOT to use an abrasive blaster on, or what to use stripper on or not? My cousin has a nice Snap-On blast cabinet I was thinking of using on my 5200 project. I think he said all he has used so far was glass beads.

Whats the easiest or best way to remove old decals? Your 8500 paint job is looking good.:msp_thumbup:
While I'm thinking about it. I saw some black paint, semi gloss of sorts I guess, from Eastwood, called under-hood black. Thought that might be good for the top cover on a 5200. I guess its for painting under the hood brackets , braces, radiator shrouds etc. Any advise on that?


Gregg,

Greg, I have been using silica sand but glass beads should work well on the 5200 painted surfaces. Niether would work well on the 8500 though. :msp_ohmy:

A heat gun works well to warm the old decals then just scrape them off. Any old adhesive will come right off with Ooops.

I have used that under hood black before and think its a little too flat for the top cover. That last one I did on Andys saw was done with Universal black acrylic lacqure from Auto Zone. I fortget the brand but that is what I'm using on the 8500. It seemed to hold up against gas just fine as the first time I filled Andys saw I overfilled it and it got all over that one day old paint on the top cover, but it seems no worse for wear.

I use Mopar sublime green in a single stage acrylic enamel from Valspar for the green on the saw. My auto parts will sell me as little as a half pint of it. If your cousin is in the auto body business he can probably hook you up with the hardner for the paint as well as the reducer needed since you will need such a small amount.

 

[simmslumber66]

Yup, I don't own any of that series, so I'm just guessing, they confuse me. Kinda like Sears Craftsman model #'s give me a headache! Or, maybe its just my old geezer showing again.


Gregg,

Well, I didn't used to own any of that series...

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well, I didn't used to own any of that series...

The tag on the back of the tank should tell ya something when you get it.

 

[simmslumber66]

The tag on the back of the tank should tell ya something when you get it.

Lets just hope it doesn't say "Hey, Idiot"!

 

[OhioGregg]

Greg, I have been using silica sand but glass beads should work well on the 5200 painted surfaces. Niether would work well on the 8500 though. :msp_ohmy:

A heat gun works well to warm the old decals then just scrape them off. Any old adhesive will come right off with Ooops.

I have used that under hood black before and think its a little too flat for the top cover. That last one I did on Andys saw was done with Universal black acrylic lacqure from Auto Zone. I fortget the brand but that is what I'm using on the 8500. It seemed to hold up against gas just fine as the first time I filled Andys saw I overfilled it and it got all over that one day old paint on the top cover, but it seems no worse for wear.

I use Mopar sublime green in a single stage acrylic enamel from Valspar for the green on the saw. My auto parts will sell me as little as a half pint of it. If your cousin is in the auto body business he can probably hook you up with the hardner for the paint as well as the reducer needed since you will need such a small amount.

Good info Mark. Thanks. Just looking at the original top cover on this 5200, looks dam near flat. But figured it must have faded some over the years. My cousin is in the restoration process of a 1970 Plymouth Superbird . UNFORTUNATELY it isn't going to be sublime green. LOL Thought I was gonna be able to find a bunch of Poulan green paint.


Gregg,

 

[Eccentric]

That's the only pic I got since I don't have the saw yet. I'll let you know when i get it. I THOUGHT I had just looked at this saw, butapparently I felt the NEED to buy it. Well, at least it was cheap...

BTDT..........more than a few times...:help:

 

[cowroy]

Well, bad news on the ole 306A cylinder. I had hopes of it being an easy fix, but I believe this one is broke

Plating is a little wore

These are gouges, not transfer.

 

[Eccentric]

Looks like it got 'dusted'. How does the AF element look? If the AF element is fine..........I'm guessing the foam seal under the tank degraded, allowing dust to pass into the carb box.

 

[cowroy]

Air filter looked ok. You very well may be right. I didn't really know what to look for as this was my first tear down of an ole reed valve saw like this. I thought the same as you when I saw those wore spots on the plating. The only place I could be remember seeing pics of plating like that was on smoked concrete saws.

 

[homelitejim]

I hit a double today, that's right, NOS Poulan suspenders.

 

[3000 FPS]

I hit a double today, that's right, NOS Poulan suspenders.

Put those babys on and lets have a look.

 

[homelitejim]

Put those babys on and lets have a look.

Wish I could, the wife is wrapping them up and putting them under the tree for Christmas. Of course I can work on the saw now, needs a fuel line which I have laying around here somewhere.

 

[redunshee]

Glad to hear that the glass beads is the way to go. He does auto restorations. Said it seems to work well, not to aggressive. I probably won't be doing any painting till warm weather arrives. Don't have a nice heated shop. Haven't decide on green paint yet. I have the paint mix numbers written down somewhere that Brad used when he did his. I think its just enamel with hardener added. Price was what I liked.


Gregg,

Gregg, it isn't the 1970 Dodge sublime FJ-5 is it? It also comes in the PLymouth version called limelight. If you recall what you were looking at let me know as I'm thiniking about doing some restoring as well.
Bob

 

[redunshee]

Greg, I have been using silica sand but glass beads should work well on the 5200 painted surfaces. Niether would work well on the 8500 though. :msp_ohmy:

A heat gun works well to warm the old decals then just scrape them off. Any old adhesive will come right off with Ooops.

I have used that under hood black before and think its a little too flat for the top cover. That last one I did on Andys saw was done with Universal black acrylic lacqure from Auto Zone. I fortget the brand but that is what I'm using on the 8500. It seemed to hold up against gas just fine as the first time I filled Andys saw I overfilled it and it got all over that one day old paint on the top cover, but it seems no worse for wear.

I use Mopar sublime green in a single stage acrylic enamel from Valspar for the green on the saw. My auto parts will sell me as little as a half pint of it. If your cousin is in the auto body business he can probably hook you up with the hardner for the paint as well as the reducer needed since you will need such a small amount.

I need to find your auto parts store. Smallest amounts I've seen are 1 quart.
Bob