Nik's Poulan Thread

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I have a 3400 that I've been trying to bring back to life but I've ran into a snag.. it has a leaky gas tank and I need to take it off to repair it. Problem is, I can't seem to get it removed. I've cleaned it all up hoping to find some screws hidden by dirt but no luck. I even took the flywheel off hoping there was a screw behind it, no luck. Ye Poulan experts care to weigh in here?

Yea, Its like others have said, just needs persistence & muscle. It helps a LITTLE if ya take the fuel cap off, so ya can get a better hold of it. And I have been known to use some judicious use of a screw driver to help pry & work it a little. Just don't want to poke a hole in it.

It amazes me, that after you remove one, and get everything all nice & clean. They will just slip back in & out without a problem. I guess its just a gunk build up that causes the grief.

Gregg,
 
It's funny that they'd put them in there that tight. I'm wondering if someone tried repairing the tank with JBWeld or something and didn't let it dry before replacing the tank. I'll try jerking on it some more..

Unfortunately, if that tank is polyethylene or polypropylene there is not patch that will permanently stick to it.
If it's a small hole you might try sealing it back up with a soldering iron by melting and wiping the hole over. Failing that, maybe one of the good members here may have a junker they take a good tank from.
 
If it's a small hole you might try sealing it back up with a soldering iron by melting and wiping the hole over.

I've used this method on several types of plastic and even on some balloon tires. It usually works well.
There is also a clear sealant called Seal-All that is resistant to oil and gas and can supposedly be used to seal leaking gas tanks, but I can't swear it will stick to every kind of plastic.
I'd try the soldering iron myself.
 
Well, guess what! I finally squirted a little WD around the tank and pried that sucker out of there, looked it over, filled it with fuel and it didn't leak! The previous owner didn't have a vent line on it and when I pulled the line off the carb I realized why it wouldn't keep running...the carb inlet fitting was stopped up with dirt and rust so no fuel could get in. I cleaned the area all up around the tank, cleaned the tank, cobbled up a working vent line and put it all back together...clean. I haven't tried to start it yet because some of the parts are still drying from where I painted them. Checked compression and it's a 120 cold. I'll go out tomorrow and install the painted parts and see if she'll keep running.
 
Well, guess what! I finally squirted a little WD around the tank and pried that sucker out of there, looked it over, filled it with fuel and it didn't leak! The previous owner didn't have a vent line on it and when I pulled the line off the carb I realized why it wouldn't keep running...the carb inlet fitting was stopped up with dirt and rust so no fuel could get in. I cleaned the area all up around the tank, cleaned the tank, cobbled up a working vent line and put it all back together...clean. I haven't tried to start it yet because some of the parts are still drying from where I painted them. Checked compression and it's a 120 cold. I'll go out tomorrow and install the painted parts and see if she'll keep running.


Way cool man, youll like it! About as perfect a general firewood saw as ever made methinks.
 
Way cool man, youll like it! About as perfect a general firewood saw as ever made methinks.

Yes, they're very good. I already have one and a 3.7 Craftsman but my neighbor had this one and wanted to get rid of it so I decided that one more wouldn't hurt. This saw is actually a Skil 1641 but it's just like my Poulan 3400 except for the paint and decals.

I actually got the thing running today and I must say it runs pretty good! The carb inlet was all that was wrong with it. I took the fuel line off (someone had a new one on it) and noticed the inlet was completely plugged with rust and/or dirt. I cleaned it out and that was all it needed..
 
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Ignition Question

I continute to work on a friends 2009 Craftsman 358.350990 42 CC and I am gaining on it. I soaked the carb and swapped out the flywheel. At this point I got fuel, but no spark. I swapped the ignition out of 10 year old 40cc Craftsman and got it running. Starts and idles fine, but dies on throttle.
My guess is I may still have a high circut fuel delivery problem in the carb, or an air leak in the fuel line.
I will replace the fuel line. (Already did the primer and impulse), and will tackle the carb one more time.

Was just curious about the ignition I swapped out. It fit perfect, but I was guessing it would work. Could there be a problem with using this ignition? Have I made the mistake of assuming if it fits and idles, it will fire on increasing RPMs as the throttle opens up? As always, appreciate any suggestions.

Chris

One thing that really works is the dang oiler on these things. It looks like the Exxon Valdez ran ashore. Dumps a ton of oil while I am playing with the idle!
 
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I continute to work on a friends 2009 Craftsman 358.350990 42 CC and I am gaining on it. I soaked the carb and swapped out the flywheel. At this point I got fuel, but no spark. I swapped the ignition out of 10 year old 40cc Craftsman and got it running. Starts and idles fine, but dies on throttle.
My guess is I may still have a high circut fuel delivery problem in the carb, or an air leak in the fuel line.
I will replace the fuel line. (Already did the primer and impulse), and will tackle the carb one more time.

Was just curious about the ignition I swapped out. It fit perfect, but I was guessing it would work. Could there be a problem with using this ignition? Have I made the mistake of assuming if it fits and idles, it will fire on increasing RPMs as the throttle opens up? As always, appreciate any suggestions.

Chris

One thing that really works is the dang oiler on these things. It looks like the Exxon Valdez ran ashore. Dumps a ton of oil while I am playing with the idle!

If you haven't already try turning the H and L screws out about 2 turns from lightly seated and see if that helps. I works on some and not others, I'm not sure why.
 
Well, guess what! I finally squirted a little WD around the tank and pried that sucker out of there, looked it over, filled it with fuel and it didn't leak! The previous owner didn't have a vent line on it and when I pulled the line off the carb I realized why it wouldn't keep running...the carb inlet fitting was stopped up with dirt and rust so no fuel could get in. I cleaned the area all up around the tank, cleaned the tank, cobbled up a working vent line and put it all back together...clean. I haven't tried to start it yet because some of the parts are still drying from where I painted them. Checked compression and it's a 120 cold. I'll go out tomorrow and install the painted parts and see if she'll keep running.

Glad to hear you got by your issue. 120 comp isn't unheard of and I've had several that run very good. These are basically lower comp saws. Exactly why I don't know, but 135 on a 3400 is great.
Bob
 
Glad to hear you got by your issue. 120 comp isn't unheard of and I've had several that run very good. These are basically lower comp saws. Exactly why I don't know, but 135 on a 3400 is great.
Bob

It might go a little higher. 120 was on an engine that has sat for several years and was dry. Probably would also go higher if a person was to put the recommended mix in it which is more oil than we use today.
 
Did you take the carb all apart in put a kit in it?


How about the needle jets how do you have those set.

No, and I should:msp_blushing: It has only been run twice, but it sat with fuel in it. I pulled it apart and sat the body in a parts washer and put some silicone on the diaphram/gaskets. Even if they look good, they may be done.

I corrected the no spark first. I was trying to rule out if the flywheel and ignition module from a normally aspirated saw would not work in a strato. ......but you're right, try the simple things first.
Thanks
 
I've used this method on several types of plastic and even on some balloon tires. It usually works well.
There is also a clear sealant called Seal-All that is resistant to oil and gas and can supposedly be used to seal leaking gas tanks, but I can't swear it will stick to every kind of plastic.
I'd try the soldering iron myself.

I tried Seal-All on my boys trimmer tank at the end of last year. It got him through 3 or 4 uses.
We will see if it can stand up tolong term use, the jury is still out.:dunno:
 
I tried Seal-All on my boys trimmer tank at the end of last year. It got him through 3 or 4 uses.
We will see if it can stand up tolong term use, the jury is still out.:dunno:

I'll be interested to hear how that Seal-All holds up. I bought some on a recommendation from another site. So far it has glued together lots of things (soles on hunting boots, an inlet hose on a vacuum device made from a 5 gallon bucket, etc) , but I haven't actually fixed a leaking gas tank with it yet.
Let us know how it holds up. Thanks.
 

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