Nik's Poulan Thread

[a. palmer jr.]

You did what????

You should never put anything on carb gaskets or diaphragms let alone silicone.

You should and probably will see what gas does to silicone.

I heard you can soak them in that SeaFoam gas additive, just about as cheap around here just to buy a kit though. I don't have any saws that are so old that kits aren't available. My oldest saw is probably my Homelite Zip...my dealer didn't even have to order it.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Yes a. palmer jr. I know old school guys that soak NLA diaphragms to get them to work again. Short lived but they do it to use for time being.

 

[zogger]

I heard you can soak them in that SeaFoam gas additive, just about as cheap around here just to buy a kit though. I don't have any saws that are so old that kits aren't available. My oldest saw is probably my Homelite Zip...my dealer didn't even have to order it.

I was wondering about Bars Leaks, supposed to soften and swell back up old seals.

 

[Acornhill]

it looks like a 8500 air filter cover there on the left....if it fits anything in the pile you may have one:confused

well the 3400 series saw has thin rings, (3700)? i changed the fuek lines, new filter, adjusted the carb and she runs. (first one i went for) we will see how tomorrow goes.

 

[redunshee]

it looks like a 8500 air filter cover there on the left....if it fits anything in the pile you may have one:confused

well the 3400 series saw has thin rings, (3700)? i changed the fuek lines, new filter, adjusted the carb and she runs. (first one i went for) we will see how tomorrow goes.

If your 3400 has thin rings,its likely a 3700. 3700 has a chrome cylinder and aluminum piston. Opposite of the 3400.
Bob

 

[fossil]

Pick your brains

Well I posted this up in the appropriate thread but it's dead as a hammer at the moment so I thought maybe I could pick your brains since there are some good guys on here. Besides, when I get this fixed I can move on to the some Poulans.

The saw is a 77 cc reed valve saw. I replaced the crank seals and it holds both pressure and vacuum (checked three times during this exercise) with a few turns of the crank for good measure. The tests were done with the exhaust port blocked and the intake blocked between the carb adaptor and the carb.
The pressure and vacuum was applied through the spark plug hole.

The carb is a Tillotson HS 131B with governor. I have cleaned it and put a carb kit in and have checked the gasket / diaphram order (twice). Gas is getting to the carb. The butterfly orientation is correct.
Mixture srews are 1 turn out. The saw will start with choke and throttle lock set. It revs high for about 2 seconds and dies. If the throttle is feathered I can keep it running at high RPM's but it will not idle. Everything points to vacuum leak so I figure it as to be between the adaptor and carb (new gasket) or someting is wrong with the carb itself.
I pulled the reed block and the reeds are OK and clean.

I am putting a kit in another HS carb from another saw of the same family tomorrow to see if that will help isolate the problem.
If you guys can add anything to this in case I have missed something or have some experience with a problem like this, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Tim

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Well I posted this up in the appropriate thread but it's dead as a hammer at the moment so I thought maybe I could pick your brains since there are some good guys on here. Besides, when I get this fixed I can move on to the some Poulans.

The saw is a 77 cc reed valve saw. I replaced the crank seals and it holds both pressure and vacuum (checked three times during this exercise) with a few turns of the crank for good measure. The tests were done with the exhaust port blocked and the intake blocked between the carb adaptor and the carb.
The pressure and vacuum was applied through the spark plug hole.

The carb is a Tillotson HS 131B with governor. I have cleaned it and put a carb kit in and have checked the gasket / diaphram order (twice). Gas is getting to the carb. The butterfly orientation is correct.
Mixture srews are 1 turn out. The saw will start with choke and throttle lock set. It revs high for about 2 seconds and dies. If the throttle is feathered I can keep it running at high RPM's but it will not idle. Everything points to vacuum leak so I figure it as to be between the adaptor and carb (new gasket) or someting is wrong with the carb itself.
I pulled the reed block and the reeds are OK and clean.

I am putting a kit in another HS carb from another saw of the same family tomorrow to see if that will help isolate the problem.
If you guys can add anything to this in case I have missed something or have some experience with a problem like this, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Tim

Well, it just not getting enough fuel for the air that's available. Either an air leak in another spot, or like you said, at the carb/manifold junction or maybe the impulse passage is clogged up. I'm betting the carb needs taken off and soaked in carb cleaner, not just sprayed.

 

[Eccentric]

Well, it just not getting enough fuel for the air that's available. Either an air leak in another spot, or like you said, at the carb/manifold junction or maybe the impulse passage is clogged up. I'm betting the carb needs taken off and soaked in carb cleaner, not just sprayed.

Tim do you have an Ultrasonic cleaner? There may be passages in that carb that aren't cleared yet....

 

[fossil]

Tim do you have an Ultrasonic cleaner? There may be passages in that carb that aren't cleared yet....

No, unfortunately I don't. If the other carb works I think I'll soak the carb in Sea Foam and see what happens. I've had very good luck with that stuff. It seems to be the only carb / injector cleaner I've used that actually works well.

 

[cmarti]

You did what????

You should never put anything on carb gaskets or diaphragms let alone silicone.

You should and probably will see what gas does to silicone.

I heard it on the internet....so it must be true......bonjour.....actually this site. I have used ATF before as it is relatively harmelss, and has seal conditioners......but tried silicone spray on advice I got there.....It sounds like it may be a "learning moment".

I will get a kit. Thanks

 

[Modifiedmark]

I heard it on the internet....so it must be true......bonjour.....actually this site. I have used ATF before as it is relatively harmelss, and has seal conditioners......but tried silicone spray on advice I got there.....It sounds like it may be a "learning moment".

I will get a kit. Thanks

Well I have to admit I misunderstood your use of the word silicone.

I had thought your were sealing the gaskets and diaphragms to the carb with silicone RTV. :hmm3grin2orange:

I'm still sure the gas just ate the silicone spray off in just seconds anyway.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

No, unfortunately I don't. If the other carb works I think I'll soak the carb in Sea Foam and see what happens. I've had very good luck with that stuff. It seems to be the only carb / injector cleaner I've used that actually works well.

AutoZone used to have some carburetor cleaner in the gallon can that worked really well but I don't know if they still carry it or not. I think it was called something like Chem Tool but I'm not sure. It came in a red, white, and blue can though. Of course you have to take the carb apart before you dip it. Don't dip the little lever spring or you'll probably never see it again. I wouldn't dip plastic parts very long either, maybe 10 minutes or so..

 

[DSS]

AutoZone used to have some carburetor cleaner in the gallon can that worked really well but I don't know if they still carry it or not. I think it was called something like Chem Tool but I'm not sure. It came in a red, white, and blue can though. Of course you have to take the carb apart before you dip it. Don't dip the little lever spring or you'll probably never see it again. I wouldn't dip plastic parts very long either, maybe 10 minutes or so..

Kleen Flo carburetor and metal parts cleaner. Napa sells it in Canada. It will clean anything. I wouldn't even go near it with plastic parts. Take varnish out of a fuel tank overnight. Jerry Myers put me onto it.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

AutoZone used to have some carburetor cleaner in the gallon can that worked really well but I don't know if they still carry it or not. I think it was called something like Chem Tool but I'm not sure. It came in a red, white, and blue can though. Of course you have to take the carb apart before you dip it. Don't dip the little lever spring or you'll probably never see it again. I wouldn't dip plastic parts very long either, maybe 10 minutes or so..

Chem tool is made by Berrymans. It's the same stuff that comes in the spray cans from them and is pretty wicked. It melts lots of stuff.

 

[redunshee]

Chem tool is made by Berrymans. It's the same stuff that comes in the spray cans from them and is pretty wicked. It melts lots of stuff.

Yup. I have some for cleaning mufflers, etc. Not sure I'd soak a carb in it though. Spraying carb cleab or better yet a USC is much safer.

 

[redunshee]

No, unfortunately I don't. If the other carb works I think I'll soak the carb in Sea Foam and see what happens. I've had very good luck with that stuff. It seems to be the only carb / injector cleaner I've used that actually works well.

If you've done a vacuum and pressure test and both held, it has to be a carb issue. I had issues with a 346xp that wouldn't run at hi speed. After several carb cleanings with the same results, I used a USC and voila' it ran great.

Bob

 

[fossil]

AutoZone used to have some carburetor cleaner in the gallon can that worked really well but I don't know if they still carry it or not. I think it was called something like Chem Tool but I'm not sure. It came in a red, white, and blue can though. Of course you have to take the carb apart before you dip it. Don't dip the little lever spring or you'll probably never see it again. I wouldn't dip plastic parts very long either, maybe 10 minutes or so..

Kleen Flo carburetor and metal parts cleaner. Napa sells it in Canada. It will clean anything. I wouldn't even go near it with plastic parts. Take varnish out of a fuel tank overnight. Jerry Myers put me onto it.

Chem tool is made by Berrymans. It's the same stuff that comes in the spray cans from them and is pretty wicked. It melts lots of stuff.

Yup. I have some for cleaning mufflers, etc. Not sure I'd soak a carb in it though. Spraying carb cleab or better yet a USC is much safer.

If you've done a vacuum and pressure test and both held, it has to be a carb issue. I had issues with a 346xp that wouldn't run at hi speed. After several carb cleanings with the same results, I used a USC and voila' it ran great.

Bob

Thanks for coming through guys. I'll let you know what I find.

 

[cmarti]

Chem tool is made by Berrymans. It's the same stuff that comes in the spray cans from them and is pretty wicked. It melts lots of stuff.

Acetone, xylene, benzene ....who woulda thought.:rolleyes2: It is great on carbon though:msp_sneaky:

 

[Chris J.]

This CL ad didn't get much attention in the eBay/CL sticky, but maybe some of y'all can ID the Poulan bow saws even with the bad photos. $800.00 seems high to me.

CHAINSAW COLLECTION

 

[autoimage]

does anyone have a fuel vent for a pp336 they can sell me?