Nik's Poulan Thread

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Was there ever a hd filter option for the poulan 4000? I have the film filter with the plastic inner frame on mine and it sucks dust like crazy. Also Is there a way to turn up the oiler on it? I posted pictuers of it a while back before the site remodel. I love the saw it is a mint 4000. Runs great with power to boot. I would just like to come up with a better filter and make it oil better.
 
Was there ever a hd filter option for the poulan 4000? I have the film filter with the plastic inner frame on mine and it sucks dust like crazy. Also Is there a way to turn up the oiler on it? I posted pictuers of it a while back before the site remodel. I love the saw it is a mint 4000. Runs great with power to boot. I would just like to come up with a better filter and make it oil better.

I think, but do not know, but I think you can still get the quad O ring for the manual oiler pump plunger and also new diaphagms for the auto oiler. also, just takem apart and clean the crud out and cut some new foam for the oil filter part. doesn't take much, but helps keep the crud out and it will oil better I think.

whole oiler assemblies no (some aftermarket place should make them though...), but those two parts and a good cleaning helps a lot on the few 3400s I have done.

You can do a thin film of grease around that filter housing to slow down infiltration.
 
I put stihl bar oil in it, which seems a little thinner than the cheap poulan oil I run through most other saws. I'm going to drain the tank and have a look at the pickup, maybe wash the tank out with some gas. If that's not the problem I will have to find a good IPL before I tear into it. The duckbills have rotted out. It's fine as is for bucking, not so much for felling though.
Where the end of the manual oiler push rod lives packs with sawcake. The 'L' shape plastic piece has to have clearance. After a spell you get very little travel for your thumb push.
 
Where the end of the manual oiler push rod lives packs with sawcake. The 'L' shape plastic piece has to have clearance. After a spell you get very little travel for your thumb push.

The pushbutton moves freely and there isn't a problem pushing it the full travel, it's just slow on the return. Sleeting outside now, so it will have to wait.
 
If it's not oiling well and the MO plunger is slow to return, then I'm betting your pickup has issues. The pickup screen could be clogged, the pickup line could have gone soft and collapsed (flat like a tapeworm), or both.
 
If it's not oiling well and the MO plunger is slow to return, then I'm betting your pickup has issues. The pickup screen could be clogged, the pickup line could have gone soft and collapsed (flat like a tapeworm), or both.

It actually oils pretty well with the manual oiler, the plunger is just slow to return. The auto oiler isn't working at all. I'll check the pickup and the line when things warm up...hoping the auto pump doesn't have issues.
 
Mine is slow to oil even with the manual oiler. I am mainly interested in the air filter. The saw uses about a third of a tank of oil to a tank of gas. I would like to get it to where it uses a tank of oil to a tank of gas.
 
Mine is slow to oil even with the manual oiler. I am mainly interested in the air filter. The saw uses about a third of a tank of oil to a tank of gas. I would like to get it to where it uses a tank of oil to a tank of gas.

The saw is suppose to run out of fuel before bar oil is empty. I think that is standard procedure on all saws. I use 4000's quite a bit. I have used this series of saws for 20+ years. Over the years you just get into a habit of pumping the manual oiler every so often while cutting without thinking about it. :) First thing I would ck is the black rubber pick-up tube with the spring & weight on it. They have been known to break over time, usually right where that spring is. Other than that, the diaphragm might be week. Some of the real smart fellas on here have made new ones. :clap: I never have. :confused:

As far as the air filter goes. I carry a soft bristled brush in with my other gear while out cutting. When I refill the saw, I just take the filter off and brush it clean. Don't take but a minute. I do the same with the flocked filters of the 3400/3700 style also. I have never had a problem with them, they seem to do the job! The 4000 is probably my favorite all around saw. Can ya tell? LOL

4000Pics022.jpg


Gregg,
 
So no 380 for me yet. Maybe a purple one will do. At least I KNOW the top end in this one is trash. The vultures are circling, though.
 
The answer is yes, and yes, the 38cc version.
The only problem is once you get the quake you may get the urge to play with it. My modified 38cc quake would actually handle 95% of my wood cutting needs.View attachment 319632
Thanks! That's what I like about this thread, I don't have to apologize here for owning/using my cheaper saws.
 
Any love out there for a Super-31? Local guy has one for sale....for $350. He claims to have had it "appraised". I told him his appraiser was nuts and almost got it for 40 bucks after explaining that it didn't run, the recoil was shot (albeit a F-B and probably easy to fix), had no air filter which could have let god knows what into the cylinder, and was filthy as s**t.

Complete and solid otherwise with the exception of a small piece of the recoil housing knocked out and the air filter. Doesn't look like too many parts are floating around for it, at least from doing a cursory search for stuff.

There was enough rope still wrapped around the recoil to tell it has real good compression and the piston looked good to the extent it was visible through the stack.

Seems like kind of a rare bird and only produced for a couple years, but...., Am I out of line in the $40~$50 range for this thing?
 
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