Nik's Poulan Thread

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Probably right on the mark, cause I paid just at $300 with tax for a 3400 I bought new in spring of 1986. As I recall, I don't think think the Sears Craftsman line of saws was much cheaper back in the day.

:cheers:
Gregg,

You overpaid! I got mine through an Army PX store from a friend of a friend and don't think I paid over $160 for it in about 1984!
 
3700 in Craftsman red

Hi all, was going to post this in the classifieds, but would rather sell this saw to someone that 'needs' it to complete a collection or whatnot. ;)
I have a Craftsman 3700 in red. It has one of the cleanest P&C I've seen on an older saw, pulls 150psi in 3 pulls. All the correct screws are in place, no cracks in anything. I originally bought it for parts, but it's in too good of shape to tear apart. Only needed fuel lines and cleaned to make it run. Has a cheap Oregon doubleguard bar and Oregon safety chain. Some of the paint is flaked off the bottom and the back of the case has faded a little and isn't quiet the same red as the handle and covers.

I'd like to get $100+shipping. My wife gets a good deal on UPS ground through work, so shipping would be about 70% of what the UPS website says. If no one needs it, I'll be putting it on fleabay. I have 2 other 3700s and need to thin the herd. I would be up for a trade for something else, but it has to be at least in the 60cc range.

Thanks,
Steve

Video of saw running

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Aldens project finished.

Well its done and what a sweet little runner. These stack exhaust sure do have a cackel to them.

I showed you a couple pages back what I ran into in the crankcase and how it cleaned up.

Here is what I found in the fuel tank. You got to love being able to take the tank apart to clean them up. Its much easier to install the fuel line when it is apart as well.

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Crankcase going back together.

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Here is a little trick on installing crank seals to keep from turning the seal lips up on the step on the crankshaft. I wrap a piece of soft aluminum pie pan around the crank then oil and slip the seal over it. Once the seal is driven in place you can pull the aluminum strip out of the seal and off the crank.

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Going back together.

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Here it is done and up and running like new. Look how well the bar cleaned up from the earler picture! This saw was really in pretty good shape, just needed some years of neglect fixed on it.

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These rebadged saws really interest me, and the story behind them.

I would like to know more about the Aldens company but theres not alot of info out there.

I did find that Aldens mail order and discount stores were owned by Gambles which had there own line of rebadged Poulans as well.
 
BTW, I'm often lurking around here even if I don't chime in. Gotta bunch of projects on my bench. Been waiting for it to cool off. Ol' Possum has ac in his shop now so that's reason enough to go down and rewind a starter for him and get a free lunch at Rick's in Denton.
Steve, they have cheeseburgers every day :)
 
2300 Issue

I just went threw my 2300 I picked up for free this spring. I rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel line and filter and fixed the oiler. The saw runs awesome until you put the top cover back on over the carb. The idle falls down a little low and after reving it a few times it will stall and is vary hard to start. W/O the cover over the carb the saw starts right up, idles all day, runs and revs nice.

I notice that when you rev the saw there is alot of spit back threw the carb. I think has to do with my issue but how do I stop it? When I had the saw apart I checked the reed and it appeared to be ok. There were no visual defects and it sealed tight.
 
I just went threw my 2300 I picked up for free this spring. I rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel line and filter and fixed the oiler. The saw runs awesome until you put the top cover back on over the carb. The idle falls down a little low and after reving it a few times it will stall and is vary hard to start. W/O the cover over the carb the saw starts right up, idles all day, runs and revs nice.

I notice that when you rev the saw there is alot of spit back threw the carb. I think has to do with my issue but how do I stop it? When I had the saw apart I checked the reed and it appeared to be ok. There were no visual defects and it sealed tight.

Gee Rick, you seem to run into alot of carb issues! Nothing wrong with a little spitback on those, they all do it. Sometimes you have to set the carbs a little lean without the cover on to compensate for the covers restriction.
 
Naw I'll have to pass, ole lady done has me full up on yard bird....

You don't know how bad its killin me wanting to get to that GTG down with ya'll.

Come on down Mark I'll make sure you eat till your done or I'll Have LP go raid the nieghbors pasture, you like pork or beef.
I'm with Steve ya'll load up and slip on down here anytime.
 
I just went threw my 2300 I picked up for free this spring. I rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel line and filter and fixed the oiler. The saw runs awesome until you put the top cover back on over the carb. The idle falls down a little low and after reving it a few times it will stall and is vary hard to start. W/O the cover over the carb the saw starts right up, idles all day, runs and revs nice.

I notice that when you rev the saw there is alot of spit back threw the carb. I think has to do with my issue but how do I stop it? When I had the saw apart I checked the reed and it appeared to be ok. There were no visual defects and it sealed tight.

A dirty or wrong air filter might cause that. I once had one that someone had put a piece of foam in there for an air filter..problem was it wasn't the right kind of foam and wouldn't let the engine breathe.
 
I just went threw my 2300...and it appeared to be ok.

That was BEFORE you let the red saws at it during the night....:monkey:

you have NO IDEA what happens out there when the lights are out!! :dizzy:

There's a REASON the saw is green....(maybe more so than when you picked it up, lol)



seriously, I'm going to guess restriction, I would presume you'd know this Rick, But can you see light through the filter? ( Is this a foam filter? I've forgotten...)

What are the carb screws @?

Is the COVER CLAMPING DOWN ON THE HOSE????


Jay
 
mark-nice job on the aldens. i like to leave 'em in their natural finish too ,clean but wearing their use.
so that's what that hole is for ! gonna have to re route my fuel line, got it going behind the coil. the old line was rotted and in pieces.
i've got another sears 2.3 to do. where do you get your parts?
 
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A dirty or wrong air filter might cause that. I once had one that someone had put a piece of foam in there for an air filter..problem was it wasn't the right kind of foam and wouldn't let the engine breathe.

Something else that restricts flow is sawdust and chips packed under the air-filter. The opening that feeds air to the filter is next to the chain, bad design.
 
mark-nice job on the aldens. i like to leave 'em in their natural finish too ,clean but wearing their use.
so that's what that hole is for ! gonna have to re route my fuel line, got it going behind the coil. the old line was rotted and in pieces.
i've got a sears 2.3 to do. where do you get your parts?

Be careful when routing fuel lines. Mine was too close to the flywheel and it wore it in two. It was routed like Mark's is but somehow the edge of the flywheel rubbed against it. I think I ended up running mine back further behind the coil also.
 
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I'll have to take a look at my adjustments still. I may still have it running to rich so when the cover is off its great but when you put that cover on it loads up. I actually thought it was the spit back causing the issue. I'll play with leaning it out more and try it.
 
I'll have to take a look at my adjustments still. I may still have it running to rich so when the cover is off its great but when you put that cover on it loads up. I actually thought it was the spit back causing the issue. I'll play with leaning it out more and try it.

Try your std settings of 1 turn out (on both) [someone correct me if i'm wrong..]

J
 

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