Nik's Poulan Thread

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Here is what I did on that P-series cap. It has held well for a couple of years now. I just used a pen tube, small finishing nail for a stand (and to keep the inside of the tube clear) and a couple generous rounds of Seal-All to bed it in. My finest redneckery.

When I open the cap after it starts struggling, it oils fine for a bit. I pulled the pump off, checking the gears, gasket, pick up and so forth. Pump seems sound. But, there sure gets to be a lot of crud that gets packed on that cotter pin. Probably a combination of lots of oil (initially) and the super fine bark/pitch dust that is common on the wood I cut. At least the patties of funk I scrape off from under the cover make good balls of fire starter.


Pioneer Fuel Cap Vent 2a.jpg Pioneer Fuel Cap Vent 1a.jpg Pioneer Fuel Cap Vent 3a.jpg
 
Steve,

I'm pretty sure it's 5/16" OD X 3/16" ID Tygon. A few guys have tapped the hole in the tank to take a 361 fuel tank fitting so they can run the 5/16" line from the fitting to the carb and use 1/4" or 3/16" OD line in the tank for better line flexibility in all positions. Not sure where you would find that fitting.

Measure the hole in the tank to be sure that the 5/16 OD line is a snug fit in the hole.

The repair manual will give you the correct length.
 
Thanks, I went to a few places today and no one had any that would fit. Gonna go by a dealer near my work and see what he has. He was a Poulan dealer ages ago, then sold Stihl, sales Huskys now. I asked him ones when I was in getting a carb kit for a Tilley about why he quit Stihl, said they were a pain to deal with when I came to warranty claims, they didn't want to pay or own up for repairs, so he dropped them.

Steve
 
Did some work on my 5200 Saturday, it's coming along nicely. Tried pulling on it to see how the compression felt, man that thang has some compression. Got mounts coming for it so can't wait for them to show up.

Steve
I had to start @farmer steve 5200 at the PA gtg for him I could see it biteing you if you don't find the compression stroke before giving it a pull. I learned you don't play with the big old saws from a jonserreds 80? After it ripped the start handle out of my hand the owner said it blew 230 and showed me the correct way to start it.
 
I've got a Sears Ranger/Roper 3.7, best use compression release or get it off compression stroke or you can kiss your fingers for awhile. Haven't check to see what it's pulling but it's up there. Last time I tried starting it I finished off the cheap air filter cover.

Steve
 
I've got a Sears Ranger/Roper 3.7, best use compression release or get it off compression stroke or you can kiss your fingers for awhile. Haven't check to see what it's pulling but it's up there. Last time I tried starting it I finished off the cheap air filter cover.

Steve

Them have an undersized starter pulley. More mechanical advantage when it snatches the handle back.[emoji37]
 
Anybody know what husky/partner brake bands fit the 3450/3750 330/380 series.

Can't imagine why mine broke.
Wanted to give a heads up in case anyone has a need for a brake band for the 3450/3750 330/380 series.

A Husqvarna 55 rancher has the same brake band. Readily available online; sleazebay etc.

Hope this helps.
 
I was just about to torque the flywheel to 5000 ft lbs when I decided to see if anyone responded to my first post. I wasn't going to pull it out of the tank, that's the pita side.

To test my theory on the dry reed, I had the carb off and dripped some 2 cycle oil on the reed. Put the carb back on and it fired in a few pulls. This was on a rebuilt carb too, with new mounting gaskets, not the one pictured. I don't think the choke will help pull the fuel up if the pump isn't getting its pulse. I pulled at least 20 times on another one tonight and it never coughed. I have 3 of these saws. I put a little primer down the carb and it was running in a few pulls. 2 out of the 3 have rebuilt carbs. Use them daily and they fire right up.

Update to this post. I tried a Tilly carb in place of the Walbro and pulled many times with no fire. I dropped oil on the reed and still no fire. So, I pulled the saw apart and replaced the top handle and reed with a donor. The top handle is the reed seat, and it was pitted. Apparently the saw set in water at some time. There was some pitting in the crankcase and rust on the crankshaft. I put it together with the original Walbro and it started in 27 pulls. I let it set a day and it was running in 3 pulls. I'll see what happens after it sets longer, but I'm hopeful this was the issue. This is a Craftsman 2.1 clone to the Poulan S25 series.
 
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