Nik's Poulan Thread

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thomas-the saw sounds great.
nice out of the box thinking on that one.
hmmm that should work on the model 91, no ?
 
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found this at the flea market sunday, $5. there were a couple craftsman too, one red and one a metallic green ? i like these intakes. this makes 3 for me.

Turtle, that is a nice looking saw!

A not seen very often JC Penney model!

If you ever decide to part with it, let me know as it would look great among the other rebadged saws, like the Aldens, Ridgids and Gambles. :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Guido,

That Dayton 245 is very interesting to me. Could you post up the model # thats on it?

You see I bet I don't have that model listed in any of my Poulan private label charts.

That saw is not a version that was ever produced by Poulan for its lime green branded saws.

You can see that it has a manual decomp like a Dayton 2Z463A and a later Poulan 245SA.

It does not have a Power sharp system on it though like the two versions I noted before. The Poulan 245 was to the best of my knowlage never offered with a decomp without the power sharp.

Another member sent me some pictures of a Dayton 306A style saw that was the same way, being that it also had a decomp but no power sharp.

Shows to me more and more that Poulan did indeed make some special verisons for its private labe customers and that all private label saws were not exact copies of there lime green counterparts.

Mark, my Dayton is exactly the same with decomp and no powersharp. Its labelled 2Z463B.

Bob
 
Guido,

That Dayton 245 is very interesting to me. Could you post up the model # thats on it?

2Z463B

Mark, my Dayton is exactly the same with decomp and no powersharp. Its labelled 2Z463B.

Bob

Looks like we have found 2 of them. Also note the sticker on the starter housing touting the solid state ignition. That saw was the one in the group that I really wanted.
 
2Z463B



Looks like we have found 2 of them. Also note the sticker on the starter housing touting the solid state ignition. That saw was the one in the group that I really wanted.

Yup. My 245A has points and though its not the reason, it will not run at full throttle. Idles great and runs at half throttle but you fully squeeze throttle and it dies. Believe it to be the carb but I've gone through it three times. Wonder if the governor might be the cause. Dayton on the other hand runs great.
Bob
 
Yea, that's me in the video. Yes, all I did was remove the coil from the 2000 and placed it on the laminates of the 71A. The saw turns over 10,000 rpm out of the cut and makes a good bit more power. I think some carb work needs to be done though, as I believe it causes the engine to run rich every once in a while. The electronic ignition really shows the saws potential. Shame Poulan did not have it on the
saw back in the day.

probily was not even thought of at the time
 
thomas-the saw sounds great.
nice out of the box thinking on that one.
hmmm that should work on the model 91, no ?

Should work. I believe that saw has a bigger flywheel and will be easier to work with. However, you make have to adjust the timing of the flywheel like I had too.
 
re badge

mark, the last re badge i've seen was a allis chalmers at the engine show a couple of weeks back. it was in a saw display. NFS. i posted a pic earlier in this thread. wonder how many RB's there are?


thomas72-oh, i thought you didn't have to move it. how much did you move it ? key out ? what was the final timing BTDC ? uh oh gonna have to get a degree wheel.
 
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mark, the last re badge i've seen was a allis chalmers at the engine show a couple of weeks back. it was in a saw display. NFS. i posted a pic earlier in this thread. wonder how many RB's there are

Including export saws, from the info I got there were lots and lots of relabled saws through the years. Quite a few that I have never heard of.

I seen the picture you posted of the little Allis. I forgot I have one just like it.
 
Ran the 71A the other day. Very suprising old saw.

S33 ran, but there is a technique to starting with the wore out fairbanks morse.

81 just will not stay running after a fresh carb rebuild and lines. And is awefully heavy when it does not start :)

Poulans may just rock :rock:
 
A couple of problems to look for on the 81. First check the crank seals as they are old. Next I believe the 81 to be a direct drive saw, thus has a removable bearing carrier on the flywheel side of the saw. Sometimes the vibration will work the bolts loose and the carrier will separate from the saw and cause an air leak.
 
2 off the shelf

The fianacee was on my case about moving the oak rounds I had stacked in the driveway. We leave early for work, its dark, she backs out of the garage, shes a girl...you get the picture. So I obliged her yesterday and moved it. A few pieces were big and I didn't feel like muscling them again. So I grabbed my 245A. I hadn't started it in a few months. It fired right up and made short work of the 12" oak even with a semi sharp chain. I can see why Mark likes this saw so much. I still had some little stuff to cut so I grabbed my Dayton S25CVA. I think this saw has the most grunt out of all my 25s except my dads.
it idled for 10 min in that wood while I looked for my camera
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=SummerFall2010115.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/SummerFall2010115.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=SummerFall2010116.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/SummerFall2010116.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=SummerFall2010117.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/SummerFall2010117.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Joe, I opened up the muffler a bit on one of my S25Da's and it is real strong. Lots of power for a small saw. I know I've said it before but it still impresses me. Insofar as my 245A I can't get it to run at full throttle. Bogs down and dies. It'll idle all day so I think it has to be the carb. Wonder if the governor is bad. I've rechecked the carb three times so I'm at a loss.
 
A couple of problems to look for on the 81. First check the crank seals as they are old. Next I believe the 81 to be a direct drive saw, thus has a removable bearing carrier on the flywheel side of the saw. Sometimes the vibration will work the bolts loose and the carrier will separate from the saw and cause an air leak.

Thanks Thomas, give it a check out this week.
 
Joe, I opened up the muffler a bit on one of my S25Da's and it is real strong. Lots of power for a small saw. I know I've said it before but it still impresses me. Insofar as my 245A I can't get it to run at full throttle. Bogs down and dies. It'll idle all day so I think it has to be the carb. Wonder if the governor is bad. I've rechecked the carb three times so I'm at a loss.

Bob, I haven't done any mods to my S25s. Might have to. As far as your 245A goes I have heard some speak of govenor problems. It sure sounds like a carb problem. When I built mine I forgot to put the gasket between the carb and reed block. It ran (no idea how) but bad. I'd check all your gaskets. There are 3 I believe, carb, reed block and intake. Also check the in-tank fuel line.
 
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4000

Brought my 4000 up to my saw shop for a new length of oregon chain. While I was there I had him tach it for me. It maxed at between 9,100-8,750 rpm, which he said was just where it should be. Is that about right? I also ordered a set of rings and a new clutch drum and rim sprocket for it.
 
Brought my 4000 up to my saw shop for a new length of oregon chain. While I was there I had him tach it for me. It maxed at between 9,100-8,750 rpm, which he said was just where it should be. Is that about right? I also ordered a set of rings and a new clutch drum and rim sprocket for it.

I'm not sure where its supposed to be there Joe.

Mopar Mike and I are out in the saw shop today, want us to tach one out for ya? :cheers:

Drinking beer and working on and running saws we are! :givebeer:
 
And how about a look at the fruits of some of our labor?


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Much thanks to 8433jeff for this saw, and as promised, here are a few pics to share of the completed product!


Mike
 
Looks like it might do more than a heard of termites...lol. It wasn't that clean when I packed it. Orange is your color, Mike. Lime green is Ok, but that Allis green or whatever looks like the saw ate a bad chile or something.
 
Brought my 4000 up to my saw shop for a new length of oregon chain. While I was there I had him tach it for me. It maxed at between 9,100-8,750 rpm, which he said was just where it should be. Is that about right? I also ordered a set of rings and a new clutch drum and rim sprocket for it.

Joe, maybe in the cut, that would be good. I think 10,500 -11,000 out of the cut is ideal. Not too lean or rich. Most of mine tach out around that area.
Bob
 
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