You dont want to put 3/8 on the 46cc 2800 2700. I owned a nice 2700 and tested they are a 325 saw.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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You dont want to put 3/8 on the 46cc 2800 2700. I owned a nice 2700 and tested they are a 325 saw.
I've got a new chain I got for it years ago, 20, 325 chain. It's the only saw I have that uses that size. 3/8 is just easier to get around here without having to order one in.
Steve
Steve
Bobby Kirbos
Scrounger of Cellulose Based BTUs
Mine does (3/8LP), with an 18" bar. Find an Oregon rim & drum, part #34254X. It's discontinued, so eBay is a good place to look. Reuse the existing clutch bearing if it's in good shape. If not, you'll need Oregon #11893 (bearing).
You need to add 1 drive link to account for the 7 point rim vs. a standard 6 point spur for 3/8LP.
You talking full 3/8 right? Not picco 3/8LP.
I have run LP on a 60cc before for fun. Cut good. So if you have that you might do like guy above says.
Yes, LP. 3/8 LP I can get local. Two other saws I run regularly have 18" bars use 3/8 LP, both use same chain, Poulan Wild thing and Echo CS400. If the 2800 could run the same bar and chain setup as them it would be great cause I keep three spare chains ready to go all the time and wouldn't have to change the grinder settings until I sharpen the full 3/8 chains for my bigger saws.
Steve
Steve
Getting ready to pop some tops for folks on CR
All the p+c's look good. Just looking in.
All the p+c's look good. Just looking in.
Who sang the song, pop a top again, just heard it the other day, Jim ed brown, it will be in my head all day long
Thanks Todd, now it's stuck in my head.
Steve
Steve
popped a top after getting plow set up.
My digital calibers are messing with me in the cold. Thinking 44mm or 44.3mm but any how 49cc bare bore 3.0 pulled. Chrome piston. Tank said 54cc on this one with no covers. This one SOLD
next up grey again hoping for a 3.3 this time
My digital calibers are messing with me in the cold. Thinking 44mm or 44.3mm but any how 49cc bare bore 3.0 pulled. Chrome piston. Tank said 54cc on this one with no covers. This one SOLD
next up grey again hoping for a 3.3 this time
another 3.0, oh well 
J. Davis
ArboristSite Lurker
New guy here with a 2700 problem. My dad had this saw forever, and it never ran great. I've taken it in the hopes of getting it running well. When I first started looking into it the cylinder was loose, so I tightened it up and it ran much better for a while. I'm sure the base gasket is GONE. However, one day I turned it off and it just would not run again. I messed with carb screws and it only got worse. So it sat for a while.
I tore into this week in the hopes that I could get it running as my "small" saw with a 16" bar. There is some scoring on the exhaust side of the piston, but not a lot. It's still making 120-125 lbs of compression, which isn't great but should be serviceable. I replaced the fuel and vent lines, rebuilt the carb, replaced the air filter (put foam inside the shot flocked clamshell, not sure if I like it), put in a new spark plug, and filled it with fresh gas.
I got it to fire reliably, but it seems to be running REALLY lean. Runaway type lean. Even with the idle screw backed all the way out, I can't get the idle to come down on startup. The saw bogs when applying throttle and screams when I let off the throttle. If the idle does come down, the saw dies immediately. I've tried running the low speed screw WAY out (3 turns) and it didn't seem to make any difference at all, so I'm suspecting an air leak.
I don't really want to sink a ton of money into the saw with a full engine rebuild. It just isn't worth it to me as it will be the least-used saw in my garage. BUT, I'm not ready to throw it away either. It has less than an hour on a new 20" bar/chain and spur sprocket. And from the comments here, it sounds like it should be a decent saw when it's running.
Anyway, any recommendations on where to start? Intake boot? Base Gasket? More turns out on the low speed screw? Any advice would be appreciated. Otherwise, this one might need to go to one of you collectors.
I tore into this week in the hopes that I could get it running as my "small" saw with a 16" bar. There is some scoring on the exhaust side of the piston, but not a lot. It's still making 120-125 lbs of compression, which isn't great but should be serviceable. I replaced the fuel and vent lines, rebuilt the carb, replaced the air filter (put foam inside the shot flocked clamshell, not sure if I like it), put in a new spark plug, and filled it with fresh gas.
I got it to fire reliably, but it seems to be running REALLY lean. Runaway type lean. Even with the idle screw backed all the way out, I can't get the idle to come down on startup. The saw bogs when applying throttle and screams when I let off the throttle. If the idle does come down, the saw dies immediately. I've tried running the low speed screw WAY out (3 turns) and it didn't seem to make any difference at all, so I'm suspecting an air leak.
I don't really want to sink a ton of money into the saw with a full engine rebuild. It just isn't worth it to me as it will be the least-used saw in my garage. BUT, I'm not ready to throw it away either. It has less than an hour on a new 20" bar/chain and spur sprocket. And from the comments here, it sounds like it should be a decent saw when it's running.
Anyway, any recommendations on where to start? Intake boot? Base Gasket? More turns out on the low speed screw? Any advice would be appreciated. Otherwise, this one might need to go to one of you collectors.
Impulse line, remove that cylinder and check the cylinder gasket
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Mine wouldn't hardly run when my impulse hose went out, would idle real hi and die on throttle. As said, check base gasket, probably torn when cylinder bolts were loose.
Steve
Steve
J. Davis
ArboristSite Lurker
That sounds a lot like what my saw is doing. My impulse line seemed OK, no cracks or anything, but I went ahead and replaced it.
I pulled the cylinder off, and the base gasket was definitely blown out. So I'll replace that too. I googled the part # 530069487 for the gasket kit, and it looks to come with a LOT of gaskets that I don't recognize. Is that a "universal" Husky part number now that covers a large family of saws? Or should I just go to the auto parts store and get some gasket sheet?
If I wasn't gonna do a complete strip down and rebuild, I'd make a gasket.
Steve
Steve
Is the piston chrome plate or bare? How does the cylinder look?
Steve
Steve
https://www.partstree.com/parts/poulan/saws-chainsaw/2700-poulan-chainsaw/internal-power-unit/
Base gasket kit, #23, little over $6 plus shipping, comes with base gasket, oil pump gask5 and carb mounting gasket.
Steve
Base gasket kit, #23, little over $6 plus shipping, comes with base gasket, oil pump gask5 and carb mounting gasket.
Steve
J. Davis
ArboristSite Lurker
Not sure on the chrome plating. It's definitely not chrome like a set of Harley pipes. The cylinder is damaged as well. I'm guessing some carbon broke off and made a mess of things. The P/C aren't scored across the entire exhaust port, just 2 gouges in one narrow strip. Both of the rings are still free. But, to get back to 100%, it could definitely use a full rebuild.
Piston may be like mine, plated with a bare cylinder. If bad enough, you may need a piston.
Steve
Steve
Need some pictures
Steve
Steve
