Nik's Poulan Thread

[CGC4200]

Thanks, I thank ( PP 260 fuel line routing)

Time and a few tanks of mix will tell.
I reviewed posts from scottr, 67 Mustang, Ohio Greg, briantutt & others
on the air purge/primer line routing.

I now have the air purge hooked to the nipple closer to the metering
diaphragm and back to the tank.

The line from filter is hooked to nipple closer to fuel pump diaphragm on
the WT 391.

The PP260 has always run but always been problematic.

 

[PLMCRZY]

got the 3700

Well i got it today, tore it out ran to the garage to look it over. Thank god i did!

Clutch was loose as heck right when i started it, it flung off almost hitting the back glass of my truck. I recovered all the pieces. Next thing i noticed was the top cover was hardly on, screws just barely tight enough to hold it on. Then i flip the saw on its side and its pouring gas out the darn tank cap!

These are all pretty minor issues but im still pissed that the seller couldnt of told me!

Now heres my questions.

How to do i fix the leaky gas cap? Just buy another o ring? Or do i need a new cap?

Now the clutch i put it on there i think i have it right but the outer piece does not spin freely? I cant loosen it without the motor spinning over, how do i do it?

Bar nut im assuming a hardware store will have? Along with the washers.

I will tell you this it ran like a clock 3 pulls it fired right up sat and idled nicely and revved great. 1 pull to get it going again after it warmed up. The piston is in pristine conditon. Again 50:1 is ok for it correct?

O ya can i take this foam crap off? Looks like junk

 

[dave76]

Got my 4000, saw is in really good shape, pulled the muffler, P&C in awsome shape, saw was just dirty as hell, I mean crud built up like nothing, you couldn't even see the coil, did a quick once over to see how everything is, did some moderate cleaning, will need a ton more cleaning. Looks like will need some fuel lines, air filter, and a few isolators should be replaced as their not in the best of shape. Will be going down to a 20" bar as well, the 24s too big and don't need it. Have some pics ina few.

 

[CGC4200]

leaky gas cap

I can find O-rings at Lowes or another hardware store, just measure.
If gas cap has a weep hole in center, you might need a duckbill that lets
air in and mix from going out. I picked up one for a S25 last week for $3.
I don't know if this applies to the saw in question.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Before throwing any money into it, get it leak tested. You probably have a leaky seal, thats why it ran the way it did, and you ran it lean. It sucks, but you learned something, and its a saw, not a kid or the wife laid up so-Fix it.

Jeff I think I will disagre with you on this one. Those 306/245 saws rarely have crank seals leak that bad. In fact the way the FW side sits under the point box and the PTO side is sealed up under the oiler there almost double sealed.

From the OPs description about the way it ran, I would say that the shop didn't get that carb set right. The shop was probably not in tune with the fact that that HS carb is governed and probably had the H screw turned way in to compensate for that. That saw has to be tuned in the wood as long as that carb is governed.

To compound the problem, even though it was not running right the OP continued to run the saw.

So there you have it, I wasn't there but I'll bet money that those two things are what ruined a nice old saw. Sad to say that parts are getting extreamly hard to find for them as well. At least P/C's and such.

 

[PLMCRZY]

I can find O-rings at Lowes or another hardware store, just measure.
If gas cap has a weep hole in center, you might need a duckbill that lets
air in and mix from going out. I picked up one for a S25 last week for $3.
I don't know if this applies to the saw in question.

Got an oring put it on the cap its actually leaking where the fuel line goes into the tank? Is there a fix or something to stop it?

Also picked up some new fuel line cause i dont trust the other guy is the tank vent suppose to go a certain route or anything?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well i got it today, tore it out ran to the garage to look it over. Thank god i did!

Clutch was loose as heck right when i started it, it flung off almost hitting the back glass of my truck. I recovered all the pieces. Next thing i noticed was the top cover was hardly on, screws just barely tight enough to hold it on. Then i flip the saw on its side and its pouring gas out the darn tank cap!

These are all pretty minor issues but im still pissed that the seller couldnt of told me!

Now heres my questions.

How to do i fix the leaky gas cap? Just buy another o ring? Or do i need a new cap?

Now the clutch i put it on there i think i have it right but the outer piece does not spin freely? I cant loosen it without the motor spinning over, how do i do it?

Bar nut im assuming a hardware store will have? Along with the washers.

I will tell you this it ran like a clock 3 pulls it fired right up sat and idled nicely and revved great. 1 pull to get it going again after it warmed up. The piston is in pristine conditon. Again 50:1 is ok for it correct?

O ya can i take this foam crap off? Looks like junk

You got a nice saw, don't let a couple of nickle and dime things ruin your good fortune!

Yes you can just put a new o ring on the cap. You also are not the first to sling a clutch off of one. I stll have a dent in the roof of my shop from one. That foam in front of the carb is supposed to seal the heat out of the carb area. You can replace it if you want to but you may have to pull the jug off to get to the manifold area to fix it.

Bar nuts are regular 5/16 coarse thread, and yes you can use regular ones with washers if you don't mind the 1/2" hex on them. The originals were 9/16" hex

I can find O-rings at Lowes or another hardware store, just measure.
If gas cap has a weep hole in center, you might need a duckbill that lets
air in and mix from going out. I picked up one for a S25 last week for $3.
I don't know if this applies to the saw in question.

That cap does not use a vent system in it. It has a duckbill in a vent line in the tank.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Got an oring put it on the cap its actually leaking where the fuel line goes into the tank? Is there a fix or something to stop it?

Also picked up some new fuel line cause i dont trust the other guy is the tank vent suppose to go a certain route or anything?

Here I posted this some time ago.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=85259&highlight=3400+fuel+lines

 

[PLMCRZY]

Well im getting the fuel line in right now as we speak. Its a pita! The tank cap does not have a vent or whatever. Now the clutch how do i get it off the outer clutch part is not spinning freely i dont think i have it on right.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well im getting the fuel line in right now as we speak. Its a pita! The tank cap does not have a vent or whatever. Now the clutch how do i get it off the outer clutch part is not spinning freely i dont think i have it on right.

Did you look at the link I put up? Did you read the other post where I said it does not have a vented cap? If the clutch drum wont spin then yes you got some washers in wrong or something. If you think putting a fuel line in that is a PITA you might as well give up working on chainsaws all together. Those fuel lines are as easy as they come.

Do you need a IPL and shop manual for it?

 

[OhioGregg]

Clay, You look to have a nice saw there. First thing I would do, if you don't allready have them, is find a service manual and IPL for these saws.
I allways, no matter what!! Take the saw apart, and go over everything well, to see what needs attention. I change fuel lines, fuel filter, plug, rebuild carb, just to be sure.
Something looks missing in your pic of the clutch. Here is a pic of one of mine.
The fuel line has a fitting that passes through the tank. To the inside, this fitting has a duck bill valve. To the outside is just fuel line tucked up under the switch. Thats the vent. The fuel line on the fitting, is what seals it from leaking.

Gregg,

 

[PLMCRZY]

Did you look at the link I put up? Did you read the other post where I said it does not have a vented cap? If the clutch drum wont spin then yes you got some washers in wrong or something. If you think putting a fuel line in that is a PITA you might as well give up working on chainsaws all together. Those fuel lines are as easy as they come.

Do you need a IPL and shop manual for it?

I read that thread right after i posted it. I wasnt cutting the fuel line on a angle like you said. Yes it has one of those duck things on the vent. I got all the fuel line setup its all together except the clutch part. Thanks.

 

[redunshee]

Well im getting the fuel line in right now as we speak. Its a pita! The tank cap does not have a vent or whatever. Now the clutch how do i get it off the outer clutch part is not spinning freely i dont think i have it on right.

#1. Never ever run a saw with the clutch cover off. You'll get exactly what happened to you. #2. As Mark stated, installing the fuel line is easy. Its even easier if you remove flywheel and pull out tank. Not necessary but if you're going to clean saw up, it heps.#3. To remove clutch you need to freeze piston from moving. I use a small rope and push it into the sparkplug hole. First I make sure the piston is above the cylinder intake and exhaust ports. If it isn't you'll likely catch the rope in the port opennigs and your real work begins. Remember that the clutch is a left handed thread and loosens clockwise. I'll bet that the large washer that fits between the sprocket and clutch is missing. Where in Texas are you?
Bob

 

[rms61moparman]

Now the clutch i put it on there i think i have it right but the outer piece does not spin freely? I cant loosen it without the motor spinning over, how do i do it?

I could be wrong but I believe that you will find one of your clutch shoes in backwards!!!

Turn that around, look closely at the positions of the washers in the IPL and you should be good to go.
Don't sweat the petty stuff....Pet the sweaty stuff!!!
That saw has been around a while and doing a good job. It deserves a little attention!!!


Mike

 

[OhioGregg]

Clay, The clutch goes back on in this order. There is a washer that goes on first. Its probably an inch or so wide. The bearing slides over the shaft. Then the sprocket goes on open side out. Then the big washer looking thing, clutch back plate. There is probably marks on it, where the springs rubbed on it. Then the clutch threads on, left hand threads, with the springs to the inside.

Something in your pic look amiss??

Gregg,

 

[PLMCRZY]

#1. Never ever run a saw with the clutch cover off. You'll get exactly what happened to you. #2. As Mark stated, installing the fuel line is easy. Its even easier if you remove flywheel and pull out tank. Not necessary but if you're going to clean saw up, it heps.#3. To remove clutch you need to freeze piston from moving. I use a small rope and push it into the sparkplug hole. First I make sure the piston is above the cylinder intake and exhaust ports. If it isn't you'll likely catch the rope in the port opennigs and your real work begins. Remember that the clutch is a left handed thread and loosens clockwise. I'll bet that the large washer that fits between the sprocket and clutch is missing. Where in Texas are you?
Bob

Fuel line is done was easy once i got it thru the hole......Yes i know the clutch is left threads. The washer is on there is the outer piece of the clutch supposed to spin when its off?

Im in Marble falls btw.

 

[Mastermind]

Yep there's the problem!!!

 

[redunshee]

Clay, The clutch goes back on in this order. There is a washer that goes on first. Its probably an inch or so wide. The bearing slides over the shaft. Then the sprocket goes on open side out. Then the big washer looking thing, clutch back plate. There is probably marks on it, where the springs rubbed on it. Then the clutch threads on, left hand threads, with the springs to the inside.

Something in your pic look amiss??

Gregg,

Geez, just noticed. Clutcj Shoe is on backwards.

 

[redunshee]

Fuel line is done was easy once i got it thru the hole......Yes i know the clutch is left threads. The washer is on there is the outer piece of the clutch supposed to spin when its off?

Im in Marble falls btw.

Your top clutch shoe is on backwards. Thats the problem.

 

[OhioGregg]

Fuel line is done was easy once i got it thru the hole......Yes i know the clutch is left threads. The washer is on there is the outer piece of the clutch supposed to spin when its off?

Im in Marble falls btw.

Yes! The sprocket should spin when the saw is off. I agree with Mike! I think you have the top clutch shoe in your pic, in backwards. Make it look like the other two..

Gregg,