Nik's Poulan Thread

[8433jeff]

Got home from Vermont and found a 4000 sitting in the garage. Pretty dirty but P & C are in great shape. However there is no spark. Checked switch with ohm meter and it works. Put three differant coils(one from a working saw) and still no spark. Tested w/o switch wire connected and still no spark. Is it possible the flywheel is bad? Never heard of a bad flywheel but I'm stumped. I did test it w/o rings on the cylinder as I was doing a squish test but it doesn't seem that this would be the cause. I may try to switch flywheels and recoil to test, but then I would have to remove starter pawls from the old flywheel in order to use the new flywheel with the 4000 pawls. Anyone removed them? They seem to be pressed in and wonder if I can drive them out.
Bob

I've driven them out when theres a hole through the flywheel. Put the coil on your runner, see if it is the coil. Good Luck.

 

[thomas1]

I can't get the links to work correctly from my phone. I'll put up the links when I get home this evening.

How's this






There is one pic of the recoil side in my gallery but, for some reason, I can't get it to show up here?

I do not have a bar and chain for it.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I had a chance to use my S25CVA this afternoon. It ran great until it got up to temp, and then started breaking up again in the cut. Does that sound like a bad condensor? If so, I'll be putting a nova module in this saw.

Either that or the coil.

I can not remember a point system coil going bad but its sure possible. In fact without being there by your description of it doing it when hot, I would say probably coil.

Don't worry I have more of those if you need one.

 

[67L36Driver]

I had a chance to use my S25CVA this afternoon. It ran great until it got up to temp, and then started breaking up again in the cut. Does that sound like a bad condensor? If so, I'll be putting a nova module in this saw.

Condensor or coil is going bad with temperature change.

Whole lot different but: Had a 'lean cruise miss' in my vet that I chased for over a year. Ran like as stripped arse ape until it got up to temp. Switched coils and it went away. Underhood temp gets way up there causing the coil to go open or short. Checked fine at room temp.

 

[blsnelling]

Either that or the coil.

I can not remember a point system coil going bad but its sure possible. In fact without being there by your description of it doing it when hot, I would say probably coil.

Don't worry I have more of those if you need one.

That would be easy enough to try. So do I go this route, of the Nova route first?

 

[8433jeff]

That would be easy enough to try. So do I go this route, of the Nova route first?

Are you really going to wait for another coil, Brad?:msp_biggrin:

 

[Modifiedmark]

That would be easy enough to try. So do I go this route, of the Nova route first?

Depends if you have the nova modual or not.

If you do then why not try it? If it still acts up then let me know and I'll send a coil on the way.

 

[stubnail67]

i wanna know!

I wanna know how a nova chip will work on that model saw!try one out you can always switch back later!!!!!!curious minds wanna know brad!

 

[67L36Driver]

That would be easy enough to try. So do I go this route, of the Nova route first?

I have a roasted Craftsman 2.3 (358.355061). Would the ignition from it work for you?

 

[blsnelling]

I have an old module of unkown origin. I'll give it a try first.

 

[zogger]

WooHoo! First CAD strike runner!

I've spent a bit of time (15 minutes to a half an hour here and there the past week) going through my first CAD haul, and managed to mix and match and fix a good runner, a PP295. Major problems were severe lack of starter assembly, and a dirt encrusted carb, including the internal screen, which was entirely caked shut. After cleaning and reassembly, tried 1.5 turns out on the screws...no workee. Next tried at just one turn out, that did it. Few minutes later had it purring with a good idle after just a tad more richening. Revs up smooth, no lag or hesitation. Not sure on the top end, I don't have a tach, but didn't seem excessive sounding as in too high RPMs. It smoked for awhile when first running, but that's from a splash of seafoam I ran through it for a few minutes. With normal mix it is clean. Tried it out on some branches in the yard and noodled a small crotch piece up.

Tomorrow I'll take it down to the woodlot and see what it does after sharpening the cutters and taking the rakers down a little, got some more hickory branches to attend to, and try some more fine tuning by mostly deaf ear....see how that goes.

The only remaining defect is a crack around the bar studs on the clutch cover. Not sure if this can be glued, or what, what say ye on this?

I'll put some over sized washers behind the nuts before I run it again. I think there's supposed to be a rubber covering over the carb screws though, I'll look around see what I got in this pile...mumble..there's always duct tape...

Did the hang by the starter cord compression test..it just hangs there. The slug looked good visually from both sides. The alleged muffler is a hoot, I don't think it needs "muffler modding", there's nothing there to mod! Just a two piece can that comes apart with a spark screen inside, the outlet exhaust hole is plenty big, looks to be near identical in size to what's in the cylinder.

Oh ya, MAN does this thing oil! Are they known to be excessive, or is something amiss? I don't think it is adjustable. I guess it will be better actually cutting when it is running, having the chips take away the excess.

All in all a good experience! Next one I will try and resurrect is a tophandle 2000.

 

[joe25DA]

Were waiting for the pictures Joe... :hmm3grin2orange:

I finished the templates tonight. I made an inner and outer. I think we will be cutting tommorrow. The outer plate will ride on the bar studs similar to the husky style. Hope they funtion well.
Id post pics of the templates but he has them

 

[Modifiedmark]

I finished the templates tonight. I made an inner and outer. I think we will be cutting tommorrow. The outer plate will ride on the bar studs similar to the husky style. Hope they funtion well.
Id post pics of the templates but he has them

Thats cool, hope they work out well for you.

I know the lack of time thing, I just came in from cleaning up the bar for the 306SA and got 2 loops out of the partail roll of .325 87A Oregon barracuda style chain. Had to modify things a little to use the .325 presets to fit it.

No time to take pictures or start it up for the first time. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I've spent a bit of time (15 minutes to a half an hour here and there the past week) going through my first CAD haul, and managed to mix and match and fix a good runner, a PP295. Major problems were severe lack of starter assembly, and a dirt encrusted carb, including the internal screen, which was entirely caked shut. After cleaning and reassembly, tried 1.5 turns out on the screws...no workee. Next tried at just one turn out, that did it. Few minutes later had it purring with a good idle after just a tad more richening. Revs up smooth, no lag or hesitation. Not sure on the top end, I don't have a tach, but didn't seem excessive sounding as in too high RPMs. It smoked for awhile when first running, but that's from a splash of seafoam I ran through it for a few minutes. With normal mix it is clean. Tried it out on some branches in the yard and noodled a small crotch piece up.

Tomorrow I'll take it down to the woodlot and see what it does after sharpening the cutters and taking the rakers down a little, got some more hickory branches to attend to, and try some more fine tuning by mostly deaf ear....see how that goes.

The only remaining defect is a crack around the bar studs on the clutch cover. Not sure if this can be glued, or what, what say ye on this?

I'll put some over sized washers behind the nuts before I run it again. I think there's supposed to be a rubber covering over the carb screws though, I'll look around see what I got in this pile...mumble..there's always duct tape...

Did the hang by the starter cord compression test..it just hangs there. The slug looked good visually from both sides. The alleged muffler is a hoot, I don't think it needs "muffler modding", there's nothing there to mod! Just a two piece can that comes apart with a spark screen inside, the outlet exhaust hole is plenty big, looks to be near identical in size to what's in the cylinder.

Oh ya, MAN does this thing oil! Are they known to be excessive, or is something amiss? I don't think it is adjustable. I guess it will be better actually cutting when it is running, having the chips take away the excess.

All in all a good experience! Next one I will try and resurrect is a tophandle 2000.

Sound like you done well. Good looking saw, I like them.

 

[67L36Driver]

361 is a runner now.

Went thru almost a gallon of lacquer thinner sloshing the fuel tank. Took most of the day. Yikes! Used a long artist brush on what little I could get to.

Reattached the fuel pickup line using a new method (for me I guess). Pull rope has a new handle and the starter/fan house is now held on with three screws instead of just two. Rinsed out the oil tank and cleaned the pump just to make sure it still had a pickup line.

Ran 2/3 of a tank thru him and dumped the leftover fuel in a clean container. He still has quite a bit of trash breaking loose.

Need to get a rim drive sprocket/drum before even thinking about which Mac to rob a bar from.

Chris you don't know what you are missing. What fun!

 

[hunter h]

How much? Wish I had known last week when I went to Spotsylvania to get this haul.

I wish I would have known that was in Spotsylvania. I live on the lower end almost in Caroline. I guess I have not been looking hard enough or asking the right people to score a load like that.
hunter h

 

[Modifiedmark]

Went thru almost a gallon of lacquer thinner sloshing the fuel tank. Took most of the day. Yikes! Used a long artist brush on what little I could get to.

Reattached the fuel pickup line using a new method (for me I guess). Pull rope has a new handle and the starter/fan house is now held on with three screws instead of just two. Rinsed out the oil tank and cleaned the pump just to make sure it still had a pickup line.

Ran 2/3 of a tank thru him and dumped the leftover fuel in a clean container. He still has quite a bit of trash breaking loose.

Need to get a rim drive sprocket/drum before even thinking about which Mac to rob a bar from.

Chris you don't know what you are missing. What fun!

Carl, be carefull which Mac bar you try to use. If your mac bar has no oil holes in it, you cannot use it.

 

[67L36Driver]

Carl, be carefull which Mac bar you try to use. If your mac bar has no oil holes in it, you cannot use it.

Thanks Mark. I have a new Oregon 20" bc in a blister pack that lists the 361 as one of the applications. I'll compare it to one of the Mac 16's to make sure.

 

[hunter h]

How much? Wish I had known last week when I went to Spotsylvania to get this haul.

Guido
Let me guess did they come from ED?
hunter h

 

[67L36Driver]

361 Rim sprocket/clutch drum.

Been all over Baileys, Chainsawr and Edge & Engine and cannot find a clutch drum/rim sprocket or just plain sprocket/drum for the 361.

Can you give me some leads?

Got the thing running and need a new clutch drum setup so I can put a b&c on it and try it in some wood.

How about this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Poulan-360-361-sprocket-system-/160375011629?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item255718792d

Or this: http://cgi.ebay.com/POULAN-CHAINSAW...415452019?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item5196637773 Much more reasonable on price/shipping.

T.I.A.
Carl.