Mark, Mike, John, and anyone else who wants to chime in. I'm going to have to order a new bar and chain for this 5400, (20" won't cut it, pun intended) and was thinking of trying one of these bars. What does everyone think of this?
Sugihara chainsaw bar 30" Husqvarna Stihl Echo Makita - eBay (item 260289718530 end time Mar-08-11 14:42:02 PST)
Mark, Mike, John, and anyone else who wants to chime in. I'm going to have to order a new bar and chain for this 5400, (20" won't cut it, pun intended) and was thinking of trying one of these bars. What does everyone think of this?
Sugihara chainsaw bar 30" Husqvarna Stihl Echo Makita - eBay (item 260289718530 end time Mar-08-11 14:42:02 PST)
Mark, Mike, John, and anyone else who wants to chime in. I'm going to have to order a new bar and chain for this 5400, (20" won't cut it, pun intended) and was thinking of trying one of these bars. What does everyone think of this?
Sugihara chainsaw bar 30" Husqvarna Stihl Echo Makita - eBay (item 260289718530 end time Mar-08-11 14:42:02 PST)
Mark, Mike, John, and anyone else who wants to chime in. I'm going to have to order a new bar and chain for this 5400, (20" won't cut it, pun intended) and was thinking of trying one of these bars. What does everyone think of this?
Sugihara chainsaw bar 30" Husqvarna Stihl Echo Makita - eBay (item 260289718530 end time Mar-08-11 14:42:02 PST)
Mark the saw runs pretty good, I got a few questions though, it oils way too much, it just drenches the chain and slings it everywere, also takes a wee bit to return to idle, she idles pretty good for not being run in 5 years, even on my 50:1 mix she smokes, so I assuming the carb needs to be cleaned and probably a kit?? Also when leaned on it side gas comes pouing out??
You can turn the oiler down on it, but those oilers still put out quite a bit. No problem oiling long bars. :smile2:
Be carefull if its coming down slow to idle, could be a vac leak. It also could have a crank seal leaking on the PTO side. Those oilers actually oil the gears automatically and that crank seal is immersed in oil. If that crank seal is leaking it will suck bar oil into the crankcase and make it smoke.
My Craftsman 5.2 was doing just that as I screwed up when I put the new seals in it and didn't use a crank sleeve or what ever you want to call it. When I put the new seal in, it flipped the lip of the seal up when going over the step on the crank.
You got that saw cheap enough, go ahead and tear it down, put a set of crank seals in it, a new o ring on the oiler adjuster screw, a carb kit, fuel lines and a new duckbill on the tank vent as thats probably where the fuel is leaking from when you lay the saw over.
It's too nice of a saw to take a chance on a old crank seal or such and then you don't have to worry about it.
Those are the easiest saws ever to work on.
Hows gasket availability??
Not good, the full gasket sets were still in the system not too long ago but I'm told there now NLA. I'm talking 5200 sets but I would think the 4900 set would be the same.
The good thing is most of the gaskets are easy to make. The crank seals are generic items and I can look the Timkin numbers up if you need them.
Not good, the full gasket sets were still in the system not too long ago but I'm told there now NLA. I'm talking 5200 sets but I would think the 4900 set would be the same.
The good thing is most of the gaskets are easy to make. The crank seals are generic items and I can look the Timkin numbers up if you need them.
Yup, even on the lowest setting...these things really pour it to the bar.You can turn the oiler down on it, but those oilers still put out quite a bit. No problem oiling long bars.
Agreed. Likely a crank seal.Be carefull if its coming down slow to idle, could be a vac leak. It also could have a crank seal leaking on the PTO side.
A good indicator of that (on these saws) is that the bottom of the muffler will have a big build up of cooked oil/carbon in it. Take the muffler apart and clean it all out. Then replace the crank seals.Those oilers actually oil the gears automatically and that crank seal is immersed in oil. If that crank seal is leaking it will suck bar oil into the crankcase and make it smoke.
One note: If he doesn't need to split the case for any other reason...crank seals can be installed by carefully removing the old ones (don't scratch the crank) then use a small piece of 35mm film negative as a guide over the crank (keeps the lip from rolling).You got that saw cheap enough, go ahead and tear it down, put a set of crank seals in it, a new o ring on the oiler adjuster screw, a carb kit, fuel lines
Yes, sir! Just unscrew the metal plug (vent) on the gas tank, clean the orifice, install new duckbill and no more leaks.and a new duckbill on the tank vent as thats probably where the fuel is leaking from when you lay the saw over.
He's got a nice one. A fairly rare saw too. I see more 5200's/5400's than 4900's (77cc).It's too nice of a saw to take a chance on a old crank seal or such and then you don't have to worry about it.
Right again (as usual).Those are the easiest saws ever to work on.
Modifiedmark wrote:
Yup, even on the lowest setting...these things really pour it to the bar.
Agreed. Likely a crank seal.
A good indicator of that (on these saws) is that the bottom of the muffler will have a big build up of cooked oil/carbon in it. Take the muffler apart and clean it all out. Then replace the crank seals.
One note: If he doesn't need to split the case for any other reason...crank seals can be installed by carefully removing the old ones (don't scratch the crank) then use a small piece of 35mm film negative as a guide over the crank (keeps the lip from rolling).
Don't forget to look at your reeds while you've got the carb off. I plugged the governor on my carb also.
Yes, sir! Just unscrew the metal plug (vent) on the gas tank, clean the orifice, install new duckbill and no more leaks.
He's got a nice one. A fairly rare saw too. I see more 5200's/5400's than 4900's (77cc).
Right again (as usual).
Modifiedmark wrote:
"Be carefull if its coming down slow to idle, could be a vac leak. It also could have a crank seal leaking on the PTO side."
Agreed. Likely a crank seal.
A good indicator of that (on these saws) is that the bottom of the muffler will have a big build up of cooked oil/carbon in it. Take the muffler apart and clean it all out. Then replace the crank seals.
"You got that saw cheap enough, go ahead and tear it down, put a set of crank seals in it, a new o ring on the oiler adjuster screw, a carb kit, fuel lines"
One note: If he doesn't need to split the case for any other reason...crank seals can be installed by carefully removing the old ones (don't scratch the crank) then use a small piece of 35mm film negative as a guide over the crank (keeps the lip from rolling).
Don't forget to look at your reeds while you've got the carb off.
Right again (as usual).
Not good, the full gasket sets were still in the system not too long ago but I'm told there now NLA. I'm talking 5200 sets but I would think the 4900 set would be the same.
The good thing is most of the gaskets are easy to make. The crank seals are generic items and I can look the Timkin numbers up if you need them.
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