Nik's Poulan Thread

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Got the camera to work, here the pics of the clean 4900.

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Mark the saw runs pretty good, I got a few questions though, it oils way too much, it just drenches the chain and slings it everywere, also takes a wee bit to return to idle, she idles pretty good for not being run in 5 years, even on my 50:1 mix she smokes, so I assuming the carb needs to be cleaned and probably a kit?? Also when leaned on it side gas comes pouing out??
 
Mark, Mike, John, and anyone else who wants to chime in. I'm going to have to order a new bar and chain for this 5400, (20" won't cut it, pun intended) and was thinking of trying one of these bars. What does everyone think of this?

Sugihara chainsaw bar 30" Husqvarna Stihl Echo Makita - eBay (item 260289718530 end time Mar-08-11 14:42:02 PST)

Works fine.

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Mark, Mike, John, and anyone else who wants to chime in. I'm going to have to order a new bar and chain for this 5400, (20" won't cut it, pun intended) and was thinking of trying one of these bars. What does everyone think of this?

Sugihara chainsaw bar 30" Husqvarna Stihl Echo Makita - eBay (item 260289718530 end time Mar-08-11 14:42:02 PST)




Barney,

There is no doubt that the Sugi-hara is one FANTASTIC bar!
That being said I'd never pay that much for a bar.
The other thing that strikes me is the 30" size.
I don't know what other combos of bar and chain you have but I would go with a 28" or a 32" simply because they are a lot more common and the chains are easier to find.'If you have other 30" bars and chains disregard the above!LOL


Mike
 
Very Nice 4900 Dave. That should be a powerful performer. At 77cc.
The only similar saw I have run was 67Mustang's 7700. I loved that saw. Was a real smooth running saw too. I don't know how much difference there is in them, other than air filter setup, color etc. Its definitely one ya don't see every day.:D

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Mark, Mike, John, and anyone else who wants to chime in. I'm going to have to order a new bar and chain for this 5400, (20" won't cut it, pun intended) and was thinking of trying one of these bars. What does everyone think of this?

Sugihara chainsaw bar 30" Husqvarna Stihl Echo Makita - eBay (item 260289718530 end time Mar-08-11 14:42:02 PST)

Well if you want to try one go ahead, I have heard there very good bars. I myself use alot of large mount Husky bars on mine, just need a set of stud spacers for them. I think I could dig you up a set of spacers if you want to go that way.
 
Mark the saw runs pretty good, I got a few questions though, it oils way too much, it just drenches the chain and slings it everywere, also takes a wee bit to return to idle, she idles pretty good for not being run in 5 years, even on my 50:1 mix she smokes, so I assuming the carb needs to be cleaned and probably a kit?? Also when leaned on it side gas comes pouing out??

You can turn the oiler down on it, but those oilers still put out quite a bit. No problem oiling long bars. :smile2:

Be carefull if its coming down slow to idle, could be a vac leak. It also could have a crank seal leaking on the PTO side. Those oilers actually oil the gears automatically and that crank seal is immersed in oil. If that crank seal is leaking it will suck bar oil into the crankcase and make it smoke.

My Craftsman 5.2 was doing just that as I screwed up when I put the new seals in it and didn't use a crank sleeve or what ever you want to call it. When I put the new seal in, it flipped the lip of the seal up when going over the step on the crank.

You got that saw cheap enough, go ahead and tear it down, put a set of crank seals in it, a new o ring on the oiler adjuster screw, a carb kit, fuel lines and a new duckbill on the tank vent as thats probably where the fuel is leaking from when you lay the saw over.

It's too nice of a saw to take a chance on a old crank seal or such and then you don't have to worry about it.

Those are the easiest saws ever to work on.
 
You can turn the oiler down on it, but those oilers still put out quite a bit. No problem oiling long bars. :smile2:

Be carefull if its coming down slow to idle, could be a vac leak. It also could have a crank seal leaking on the PTO side. Those oilers actually oil the gears automatically and that crank seal is immersed in oil. If that crank seal is leaking it will suck bar oil into the crankcase and make it smoke.

My Craftsman 5.2 was doing just that as I screwed up when I put the new seals in it and didn't use a crank sleeve or what ever you want to call it. When I put the new seal in, it flipped the lip of the seal up when going over the step on the crank.

You got that saw cheap enough, go ahead and tear it down, put a set of crank seals in it, a new o ring on the oiler adjuster screw, a carb kit, fuel lines and a new duckbill on the tank vent as thats probably where the fuel is leaking from when you lay the saw over.

It's too nice of a saw to take a chance on a old crank seal or such and then you don't have to worry about it.

Those are the easiest saws ever to work on.

I think your right on the crank seal, because it smokes a lot when reving the saw and a good 50:1 mix shouldn't smoke at all?? Plus the slow return to idle is convincing me it's a leak.

Hows gasket availability??
 
Hows gasket availability??

Not good, the full gasket sets were still in the system not too long ago but I'm told there now NLA. I'm talking 5200 sets but I would think the 4900 set would be the same.

The good thing is most of the gaskets are easy to make. The crank seals are generic items and I can look the Timkin numbers up if you need them.
 
Not good, the full gasket sets were still in the system not too long ago but I'm told there now NLA. I'm talking 5200 sets but I would think the 4900 set would be the same.

The good thing is most of the gaskets are easy to make. The crank seals are generic items and I can look the Timkin numbers up if you need them.

Yeah poulan doesn't even have a parts list for the 4200-5200 saws only the 4400-4900-and 5400, so I'll assume most parts are the saw between these saws.

So can I send the cases out to ya to get sprayed for a fee????:msp_tongue:
 
well fellas here is my new Toy i got last night for doing 2 tree trimings for it.
and don't pay any mind to the date on the pictues i broke the screen on my camera but it stll works :laugh:

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Not good, the full gasket sets were still in the system not too long ago but I'm told there now NLA. I'm talking 5200 sets but I would think the 4900 set would be the same.

The good thing is most of the gaskets are easy to make. The crank seals are generic items and I can look the Timkin numbers up if you need them.

Yes, the same.
 
Modifiedmark wrote:

You can turn the oiler down on it, but those oilers still put out quite a bit. No problem oiling long bars.
Yup, even on the lowest setting...these things really pour it to the bar.

Be carefull if its coming down slow to idle, could be a vac leak. It also could have a crank seal leaking on the PTO side.
Agreed. Likely a crank seal.


Those oilers actually oil the gears automatically and that crank seal is immersed in oil. If that crank seal is leaking it will suck bar oil into the crankcase and make it smoke.
A good indicator of that (on these saws) is that the bottom of the muffler will have a big build up of cooked oil/carbon in it. Take the muffler apart and clean it all out. Then replace the crank seals.


You got that saw cheap enough, go ahead and tear it down, put a set of crank seals in it, a new o ring on the oiler adjuster screw, a carb kit, fuel lines
One note: If he doesn't need to split the case for any other reason...crank seals can be installed by carefully removing the old ones (don't scratch the crank) then use a small piece of 35mm film negative as a guide over the crank (keeps the lip from rolling).

Don't forget to look at your reeds while you've got the carb off. I plugged the governor on my carb also.


and a new duckbill on the tank vent as thats probably where the fuel is leaking from when you lay the saw over.
Yes, sir! Just unscrew the metal plug (vent) on the gas tank, clean the orifice, install new duckbill and no more leaks.

It's too nice of a saw to take a chance on a old crank seal or such and then you don't have to worry about it.
He's got a nice one. A fairly rare saw too. I see more 5200's/5400's than 4900's (77cc).

Those are the easiest saws ever to work on.
Right again (as usual).
 
Modifiedmark wrote:


Yup, even on the lowest setting...these things really pour it to the bar.


Agreed. Likely a crank seal.



A good indicator of that (on these saws) is that the bottom of the muffler will have a big build up of cooked oil/carbon in it. Take the muffler apart and clean it all out. Then replace the crank seals.



One note: If he doesn't need to split the case for any other reason...crank seals can be installed by carefully removing the old ones (don't scratch the crank) then use a small piece of 35mm film negative as a guide over the crank (keeps the lip from rolling).

Don't forget to look at your reeds while you've got the carb off. I plugged the governor on my carb also.



Yes, sir! Just unscrew the metal plug (vent) on the gas tank, clean the orifice, install new duckbill and no more leaks.


He's got a nice one. A fairly rare saw too. I see more 5200's/5400's than 4900's (77cc).


Right again (as usual).

Thanks for all the insite Flint...

I'm not sure they have em, but Outdoordistributers is showing the gasket sets for these saws as still available, although I have ordered from them in the past and gotten an email stating parts were NLA.
 
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Would anyone happen to have a decent clutch cover for the 4200-5400 as mine is cut for a bow guide??
 
4200 crank seals scruffy piston

Modifiedmark wrote:



"Be carefull if its coming down slow to idle, could be a vac leak. It also could have a crank seal leaking on the PTO side."

Agreed. Likely a crank seal.



A good indicator of that (on these saws) is that the bottom of the muffler will have a big build up of cooked oil/carbon in it. Take the muffler apart and clean it all out. Then replace the crank seals.

"You got that saw cheap enough, go ahead and tear it down, put a set of crank seals in it, a new o ring on the oiler adjuster screw, a carb kit, fuel lines"

One note: If he doesn't need to split the case for any other reason...crank seals can be installed by carefully removing the old ones (don't scratch the crank) then use a small piece of 35mm film negative as a guide over the crank (keeps the lip from rolling).

Don't forget to look at your reeds while you've got the carb off.

Right again (as usual).

So would my 4200 have the same seal, (pn for 4200 530019075) ,replacement procedure ?? I see Calvin has some seals. May need to replace this piston and don't want the new one to have the same fate!!! Thats what she looks like , on a running saw...hmm for how long was the guy using it like this??
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Will pull the cylinder to see if it can be salvaged. don't think I can buff this piston out.... I am trying to find a replacement now...They seem scarce around here ... but may have to.

My $50 saw is going to get some added value :msp_ohmy:
Paul B
 
295 ready to run...finally

Found a decent replacement 46cc engine for my illfated PP295 (http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/145111.htm), finally; and put in a new ring in it for good measure, since everything else was apart.
What a lot of dis assembly to do it!! And some curse words at the limited space when hooking back up the carb parts!
A few pics. Modded the muffler a little bit too. Drilled baffle and enlarged exhaust outlet Might do some more after I run it some.. You guys seem to mention that a few times on this site...ha
yes still has the overzealous 20" bar and safety chain
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Paulyb

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Not good, the full gasket sets were still in the system not too long ago but I'm told there now NLA. I'm talking 5200 sets but I would think the 4900 set would be the same.

The good thing is most of the gaskets are easy to make. The crank seals are generic items and I can look the Timkin numbers up if you need them.

There was at least one aftermarket 5200 gasket set on eBay yesterday.
 
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