Nik's Poulan Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Are you looking for the biggest actual Poulan saws? If so, then I believe you're looking for a 5200 or 8500.

I guess no-one mentioning the 71, 72 or 91,92 means that I'm not likely to find one?
 
I guess no-one mentioning the 71, 72 or 91,92 means that I'm not likely to find one?

They actually come around more often than you'd think. Don't know much about the parts situation, although I do see sprockets and such on feebay quite a bit. Good, HEAVY old saws. Like some of what you have already.:cheers:
 
They actually come around more often than you'd think. Don't know much about the parts situation, although I do see sprockets and such on feebay quite a bit. Good, HEAVY old saws. Like some of what you have already.:cheers:

So there is hope!

:cheers:
 
My lovely Poulan 306A.
I know this saw has been talked over a few times but, I have one given to me by my grandpa and have recently taken to fixing it. My saw had never run since my grandpa got it from my uncle out of his barn, (dont know where it was from) grandpa tried to tune it up with what he knew, never could, and gave it to me. I had it in my garage foe 6 years or so meanwhile I bought a couple of stihls and got used to them and liked having new things that ran. I always could get it to run -sort of- and wanted more. I looked them up online and came here I rebuilt the carb and tried to tune it up. The saw does not have much power (cant cut nothing) I looked at the piston and rings and cylinder and they are damaged -gouges and such-. I know this topic is not new, but, is there any way to order new parts (piston, rings, and cylinder) I see some used on E-bay and the like and have seen a place to buy custom rings at otto gas engine works I like the idea of this saw and would like to have this one running. I have seen these saws on E-bay go for 60.00 to 150.00 and dont want to go much over that. Again I know this is not a new topic ,but, I would like to rehash it again.
Thanks, Nick.
Also the fuel cap spurts gas when it is tipped in its side Is there any fix short of a new one any help is appreciated p.s. (I am a new member) P.P.S. why did I see a wizard? that looked like a 306A It may be my imagination



Unless you can find a NOS piston and cylinder kit you are pretty much S.O.L. on that.
They can be cleaned up and do quite nicely, ask redunshee!
Your fuel cap needs a new duckbill valve. They are easy to find and simple to replace.
Go to the search box and type in duckbill valve and look for ModifiedMarks tutorial.
Welcome to the Poulan thread!


Mike
 
WildThing Frustrations

I've never worked on a saw so frustrating. In an earlier post I mentioned that the saw wouldn't idle and was hard starting. Compression was only 90 psi and I deducted that this was the cause as the carb worked fine on another saw. No air leaks enough, to be an issue. So I bought a new OEM P &C cause I was mad. Guess what ? Compression is still 90 psi. and it still won't idle and is still hard starting! WHAT IS GOING ON!!!!! I can't believe this is happening.
Bob
 
I've never worked on a saw so frustrating. In an earlier post I mentioned that the saw wouldn't idle and was hard starting. Compression was only 90 psi and I deducted that this was the cause as the carb worked fine on another saw. No air leaks enough, to be an issue. So I bought a new OEM P &C cause I was mad. Guess what ? Compression is still 90 psi. and it still won't idle and is still hard starting! WHAT IS GOING ON!!!!! I can't believe this is happening.
Bob

How does it feel when you pull the rope, does it feel like it has compression? I guess it's possible it may come up after break in.
I had a Craftsman saw that gave me fits too, I finally realized it wasn't worth it and sold it for parts.
 
How does it feel when you pull the rope, does it feel like it has compression? I guess it's possible it may come up after break in.
I had a Craftsman saw that gave me fits too, I finally realized it wasn't worth it and sold it for parts.

Well, it feels okay but not as stout as my other 4018 that's pushing 150psi. I expected the comp to be in the 120-130 area and increase as the ring seated but not 90. It just won't idle though it runs out good at wot. Have to choke as well to start. Gotta be low comp, but why its low befuddles me.
Bob
 
Well, it feels okay but not as stout as my other 4018 that's pushing 150psi. I expected the comp to be in the 120-130 area and increase as the ring seated but not 90. It just won't idle though it runs out good at wot. Have to choke as well to start. Gotta be low comp, but why its low befuddles me.
Bob

Don't know if it would be worth it but I guess you could check clearances, ring gap, etc. I wonder if it could even be a mis-matched p&c.
 
Don't know if it would be worth it but I guess you could check clearances, ring gap, etc. I wonder if it could even be a mis-matched p&c.

Beats me. Bought using part numbers from IPL. Purchased P &C separately. Included ring in piston kit. Part #'s for P&C surprisingly fit multiple saws from 3314 to 4218. Guess they are all 42cc even if advertised as 33 cc (3314). Comp number just has me wondering what's going on.
 
Anyone have a muffler that will fit a 2775??


The side deflector shield on mine broke / rusted off and the hot exhaust melted the clutch cover / chain brake. Tried to mess around with fixing it but the side of the muffler is corroded out pretty bad....
Yup, the same happened to mine. I got the parts from ordertree.com, they were fairly cheap. Others have them too. Search on the Poulan 2775, probably a Type 1. You'll need the shield/deflector and a new side cover/brake. The new shield is revised and has more metal holding the deflector on.

Shield/Deflector: 530056256 $6.80
Side Cover/Brake: 530054803 $15.75

That's for the Type 1 muffler, which you'll have to look up as I did not buy one. You definitely want the Type 1 muffler, it's far more open than the later ones, and if your shield broke then it was likely a Type 1 to begin with.
 
Last edited:
Anyone have a muffler that will fit a 2775??


The side deflector shield on mine broke / rusted off and the hot exhaust melted the clutch cover / chain brake. Tried to mess around with fixing it but the side of the muffler is corroded out pretty bad....

I have some mufflers I just don't know if they are the same on the 2775 as the smaller ones?It seems like they were different?I will do some checking.
 
There are two different ones, two bolts through the muffler and the newer one with a screw on the front holding a deflector. These are galvanized or aluminiumized or whatever.
 
I've never worked on a saw so frustrating. In an earlier post I mentioned that the saw wouldn't idle and was hard starting. Compression was only 90 psi and I deducted that this was the cause as the carb worked fine on another saw. No air leaks enough, to be an issue. So I bought a new OEM P &C cause I was mad. Guess what ? Compression is still 90 psi. and it still won't idle and is still hard starting! WHAT IS GOING ON!!!!! I can't believe this is happening.
Bob

One thing I've found on the wildthing and others in that family. The mixture jets need to be out much further that what seems normal. I've had to set them at 2 turns out to start tuning. I think the carbs are too large and they don't draw enough vacuum to pull fuel at the lower settings. If nothing else it's worth a try.
 
i acquired a 2150PR Predator and a PP4218AVX as side items when buying a compressor. the 4218 side cover says 46cc, is it really? can't find any info regarding the 2150 as far as size. i've downloaded IPL's and User's Manuals for both these saws but was also looking for and additional tune-up info. anyone?
 
i acquired a 2150PR Predator and a PP4218AVX as side items when buying a compressor. the 4218 side cover says 46cc, is it really? can't find any info regarding the 2150 as far as size. i've downloaded IPL's and User's Manuals for both these saws but was also looking for and additional tune-up info. anyone?

Sees the above post from MM. Yes it could be 46cc. 2150 after 2006 (I think) would be 42. If you get the 4218 to run, you may be pleased after some tweaking, including some form of opening up the muffler.
 
View attachment 196608View attachment 196609View attachment 196610


There's really not much to tell as far as details.
A buddy acquired this saw some time ago and I politely asked to be "on the list" if he ever decided to get rid of it.
He wanted to pick up a saw that was more important to him and needed to increase his coffers in order to make the purchase.
He shot me a price I couldn't refuse and I've been working on my coffers to get it.
I couldn't pass up a DAYTON 5200.
You just don't see them every day!


Mike

Congrats on the great saw purchase!! The recoil starter looks a little "limp" though. ;) Maybe just needs to be rewound. I had two new recoil springs, used one of them. The other had a slightly different loop on the end. So, don't know if it is correct or not. But, your welcome to it, if ya need it.

Another thought occurred to me also, seeing your new Dayton (5200). Did they make those for other brands other than Craftsman & Dayton? I have seen numerous other Poulan made saws like Montgomery Wards, Western Auto, Wizzard?, even Allis-Chalmers. But not in the large saws. If not, then I think you got that corner of the collection covered. :msp_thumbsup:

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Unless you can find a NOS piston and cylinder kit you are pretty much S.O.L. on that.
They can be cleaned up and do quite nicely, ask redunshee!
Your fuel cap needs a new duckbill valve. They are easy to find and simple to replace.
Go to the search box and type in duckbill valve and look for ModifiedMarks tutorial.
Welcome to the Poulan thread!


Mike

thanks I will try that and by the way I bought a P and C on ebay last night hope it works
 
Congrats on the great saw purchase!! The recoil starter looks a little "limp" though. ;) Maybe just needs to be rewound. I had two new recoil springs, used one of them. The other had a slightly different loop on the end. So, don't know if it is correct or not. But, your welcome to it, if ya need it.

Another thought occurred to me also, seeing your new Dayton (5200). Did they make those for other brands other than Craftsman & Dayton? I have seen numerous other Poulan made saws like Montgomery Wards, Western Auto, Wizzard?, even Allis-Chalmers. But not in the large saws. If not, then I think you got that corner of the collection covered. :msp_thumbsup:

:cheers:
Gregg,




Yeah Gregg it has a bit of "cabbage fever" but believe me it won't stay like that as that is one of my "pet peeves".
This saw has the most "felt compression" of any I own.
I haven't put a gauge on it yet but will soon.

Mike
 
One thing I've found on the wildthing and others in that family. The mixture jets need to be out much further that what seems normal. I've had to set them at 2 turns out to start tuning. I think the carbs are too large and they don't draw enough vacuum to pull fuel at the lower settings. If nothing else it's worth a try.

Il give it a try bUt feel the low comPresSion Is Puzzling..
 

Latest posts

Back
Top