Nik's Poulan Thread

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Carl, From the sound of it, your dads saw must be a S25 or a Micro version. Others have given great advice! First ck the piston/cylinder condition. If all looks good there, then replace all fuel lines & filter. And rebuild the carb. I see your in Conn. To bad your not a little closer to Joe25DA.:) in Mass. He is pretty much The expert on refurbing those old 25's.

Probably looks like one of these, or a Micro version of them.

S25DA001.jpg


Gregg,

heres my $15 special:rock:
11jx2xc.jpg

hadn't ran in 10 or more years. threw a new fuel line, filter and carb kit into it. runs weely weely good:msp_thumbup:
the blue bar makes it faster:biggrin:
so does the homelite case:)


Great pics guys! Between the two pics, we have ALL the XXV top handle designs covered. Early curved (S25DA on the left). Later 'less curved' (PP and later non-CVA S25DA). CVA. Craftsman 'straight'. $15 is a STEAL for that saw and case.

Here's my 2.1A (Poulan 25DA) and 1.9 (Poulan XX-D) Craftsmans.
000_0178.jpg
 
When can I pick them up? I can leave a pristine Wild Thing, if you think the 245 may get lonely. Least I could do.:smile2:

Yea, I knew that statement would come back to bite me!!:D I would probably be a real mad man for some time. I guess I should have just said, If thats the only saw I had, I could certainly get by with no problem!:) The 73cc gives it enough muscle to handle various size bars easily.


:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Yea, I knew that statement would come back to bite me!!:D I would probably be a real mad man for some time. I guess I should have just said, If thats the only saw I had, I could certainly get by with no problem!:) The 73cc gives it enough muscle to handle various size bars easily.


:cheers:
Gregg,

So you are saying I should turn the car around and go home, empty handed?:msp_w00t::msp_w00t::cry::cry::cry:
 
Man, I like me some big ash, that's good stuff! Glad you took those old saws out, they need some fun too!

I went and bucked up what I dropped yesterday. Hauled one batch home last night, another this afternoon, still got a lot more to haul back.

Ya, I am getting back used to no antivibe. Been awhile. So your's pulls a 24 well? I saw a used one the other day, it looked close enough to work if I drilled the oiler holes out just a little bit more. The rest matched up good.

Here's a load I got this afternoon with Annie my cutting buddy and the 245A and the 137 Husky. Annie still can't walk that well, you can see the wounds on one of her legs there, so I carried her back and forth in the cargo box. I have maple, sweet gum and some oak in that load. I'm working on my 2013 wood now.

Old saws is just about all I run. LOL The only new-ish saw I use occasionally is a 385xp. I bought that in 2008, mainly for milling. But, use it quite a bit when hitting the big oaks. That and a Poulan 5200.;)

Yes, it pulls a 24" just fine. Havn't tried, but I would venture to say a 28" would work also. The 245 probably balances well with a 20". With the 24" they want to nose over when ya set it down. The 245 needs a protrusion on the left side, like the clutch side has. They want to tip over to the left. LOL

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
really???

Hey Stub, what you have there is a 38cc chrome bore and unplated piston with dual rings, this is probably the best topend of all the Micros saws. That saw benifits from a bigger carb, a good WA-19 or Tillotson HU-10 help make it scream a bit more. That saw with a 12" or 14" bar and it's super light weight makes an awsome limber.

really? i thought it was like 30 cc thought the 180 ment like the poulan 1800 it seemed like it had really good compression!!@!! I may just keep it LOL:redface:
 
If that one ever gets to takin' up too much room in your shop, please let me know!

Hmmmmm.......

I'd have to think about that. It has a good P/C and runs well. Has oiler issues though. I need to sort out the manual oiler. The check valve seat in both the original pump body, and in an NOS pump body that I got a while ago are popping out under pressure. Bad design. It's a short alluminum tube that's only held in the plastic pump body with a slip fit.

I have a fix in mind, but haven't implemented it yet. Gonna make a longer seat that extends all the way to the pump cover. That will hold it in place. I'll cut a feed slot/hole in the side of my seat tube (as it won't be able to draw oil through the end anymore since it'll be butted against the cover gasket). I don't think the auto oiler setup is working either. The line from the crankcase to the oil tank probably needs replacing. Not something I want to do anytime soon, although I believe Mark has discovered you can get to it by removing the P/C and not splitting the cases/tanks. That would make it MUCH easier. I believe I even have a cylinder base gasket amoung the NOS parts Mark sent me a few years ago. 12" hardnose bar. 1/4" chain. Paint's in great shape. Most of the saw looks to hardly ever have been used. Chain's kinda worn out, due to lack of oiling. I really like the saw, but have become partial to the XXV series lately.

I'd trade it for any XXV series saw (not Micro) with a good P/C...................especially a Craftsman red 2.1 or 2.3. I'm really looking for a Craftsman red version of a S25-CVA. I've only seen (and ran) one of those in the last 20 years or so. I wish I'd written down and kept the sears model # (actually I wish I'd bought the damn thing on the spot), as I've been told that Sears/Craftsman never sold a red S25-CVA. That's a sepperate issue however...

Anwho.....PM me if you're interested in trading for the little 1.9/XX-D.
 
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I saw that


I saw that ad, but didn't try to go get it. Not a terrible drive but even with good mileage truck that would cost me more in fuel than to buy a runner locally of that kind. I got four good saws in one month, the 245A, the 3400, a pioneer partner 400 that runs real good just needs the airfilter, and that spiffy oregon batt electric. got my bases covered....got more than enough to keep me busy at the moment. It's too easy to get spaced out on getting and working on saws and forget all about actually going out and cutting wood, lol! I gotta cut wood, trying to get three to five years in advance right now, slowly but surely.

And I have a 295 that just needs a final tweaking, that runs and I cut with it already, and a 2000 that looks better than that one, plus some other oddball parts and whatnot, and at least two homies that look good, one is a super ez automatic, which I have been told was most excellent. All the more modern plastic poulans I have need..everything, piston and cylinder, lines, etc. got em for the bars and chains on them mostly, ignition parts, etc.
 
mine won't idle down

Old saws is just about all I run. LOL The only new-ish saw I use occasionally is a 385xp. I bought that in 2008, mainly for milling. But, use it quite a bit when hitting the big oaks. That and a Poulan 5200.;)

Yes, it pulls a 24" just fine. Havn't tried, but I would venture to say a 28" would work also. The 245 probably balances well with a 20". With the 24" they want to nose over when ya set it down. The 245 needs a protrusion on the left side, like the clutch side has. They want to tip over to the left. LOL

:cheers:
Gregg,

I noticed cutting today it just won't idle down enough to stop spinning, or maybe the clutch springs are weak. I looked, the idle screw is out past the stop limit on the carb, so that isn't the problem. I'll have to look at that carb again and gingerly find and start turning the other screws I guess. It just was starting and cutting so good I didn't want to mess with it. Still not comfortable doing tuning. I'm afraid I'll lean it just a scosh too much and toast it, what ever "it" is I am working on at the time. I do it, but not comfortable yet..

That chain that looked new on the "das boot" bar was weird, an unusual problem I have never seen before. I was sharpening it for the first time, the right side cutters fit my file well (brand new file, first use), the left side were all so tight I barely could get the file slid in and stroking. I had to twist and push hard carefully like three or four times to get it to where it would slide like it should and do the filecut smooth. I wonder if it was an "off" production run, just by a few thousandths or something. "Yo, boss, we just ran half a mile of left hand 3/8ths cutters that are three thousands too big, what should we do with it"? "ship it"!
 
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I noticed cutting today it just won't idle down enough to stop spinning, or maybe the clutch springs are weak. I looked, the idle screw is out past the stop limit on the carb, so that isn't the problem. I'll have to look at that carb again and gingerly find and start turning the other screws I guess. It just was starting and cutting so good I didn't want to mess with it. Still not comfortable doing tuning. I'm afraid I'll lean it just a scosh too much and toast it, what ever "it" is I am working on at the time. I do it, but not comfortable yet..

That chain that looked new on the "das boot" bar was weird, an unusual problem I have never seen before. I was sharpening it for the first time, the right side cutters fit my file well (brand new file, first use), the left side were all so tight I barely could get the file slid in and stroking. I had to twist and push hard carefully like three or four times to get it to where it would slide like it should and do the filecut smooth. I wonder if it was an "off" production run, just by a few thousandths or something. "Yo, boss, we just ran half a mile of left hand 3/8ths cutters that are three thousands too big, what should we do with it"? "ship it"!

Sounds like you have an air leak. It could be the crank seals, or it could be the intake gasket. They're prone to leaking on those saws.
 
Good to know/ well I need to ask then

Sounds like you have an air leak. It could be the crank seals, or it could be the intake gasket. They're prone to leaking on those saws.

I'll stop running it and clean it up again. Absolutely don't want to damage it. Just wanted to try it out some it was driving me nuts. I haven't run a saw that large since like 35 years ago...or longer really... I don't have a vac tester so....

Begin edited in thoughts:

How hard is this job on the crankseals, what tool do I need? Carb gasket from the outside looks good, but who knows. It's a rigid mount, so I would *imagine* just some permatex black or something like that might work with a new gasket and last twenty years or more. Now those seals...never done it.

OK, how bad can a leak get before it for sure will cause real bad damage, I assume there it would be lean seize maybe?

Now I see on this thread http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/114104.htm there was going to be some sort of repair manual posted, did this ever happen?

Anyway, sucks outta money..beyond broke....I can get the shop guy in town to compression test or vac test, which ever he does, for under 20 bucks and he knows what he is doing. Tearing it down that far for the seals, might as well do new rings at least. Same twenty bucks might as well just assume all the seals and gaskets should be replaced anyway. Not sure what rings are, I would guess similar around 20. The carb seems to be functioning fine and the line looks good, didn't pull the little filter out yet though, but zero fuel supply issues. Throttles up good, starts easy, then on idle it "almost" stops but keeps moving like at...well not much, not a fast speed but not creeping either, moving, I can set it down with the chain touching a log and it cuts for a sec and stops and holds there easy.

Starts to add up! I see why a lot of folks just want a new saw with a warranty, hahaha! Well, that ain't happening for me, 70 cc saws in my area start at over 800 and change and go up from there. And I need a big saw somehow, some of the stuff here is a bit much for the smaller saws I have.
 
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really? i thought it was like 30 cc thought the 180 ment like the poulan 1800 it seemed like it had really good compression!!@!! I may just keep it LOL:redface:

I could be wrong, the 180 was made in all displacements (30cc, 33cc, and 38cc) The fact you have two rings leads me to believe you might have the 38cc version.
 
Gave my 4900 a good work out today. It has Mark's crank in it and the exhaust note now has a decidedly Indiana twang. My new Bolens toy has been taking up all my time lately and it is sure easier than wheel-barrowing fire wood in from the back paddock. Thanks again Mark, this saw cuts really good.

P1010885.jpg


Al.
 
Gave my 4900 a good work out today. It has Mark's crank in it and the exhaust note now has a decidedly Indiana twang. My new Bolens toy has been taking up all my time lately and it is sure easier than wheel-barrowing fire wood in from the back paddock. Thanks again Mark, this saw cuts really good.

P1010885.jpg


Al.

Glad to hear the 4900 is back in the game.:msp_thumbsup: Now, If you could get the saw, some how mounted to the bucket, and operate it from that comfy looking seat. You will have it made.:D Speaking of "twang", are ya sure you didn't get that crank from Mike, down in Kentucky? LOL

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
I like your thinking Gregg. I could attach the 4900 on one side of the bucket and the 8500 on the other and just wade through those logs. A redneck harvester. :smile2:

Al.
 
Tmi...

Gave my 4900 a good work out today. It has Mark's crank in it and the exhaust note now has a decidedly Indiana twang. My new Bolens toy has been taking up all my time lately and it is sure easier than wheel-barrowing fire wood in from the back paddock. Thanks again Mark, this saw cuts really good.

Al.

Sorry for the lowbrow humor. Couldn't help it...

That Bolens with the F.E.L. looks VERY handy Al. Nice job. What size/brand/type rear tires are those? They don't look like the usual lug-type tires I've seen in GT sizes. More (but smaller) lugs. Steeper 'V' too. They look like they'd give good traction in the soft stuff and on side-hills, without being so jarring on hard surfaces. I'd like to put a set of those on my garden tractor. Has 23X10.5X12 turf tires on it now. Not good for anything but pavement. Also, those front tires look more agressive than the GT turf-type tires I've seen. What size/brand/type are those? I've got some worn out 16X8 turf tires now...

This is on-topic................................There are many Poulan-branded GT's out there that could benefit from better tires.:D
 
Glad to hear the 4900 is back in the game.:msp_thumbsup: Now, If you could get the saw, some how mounted to the bucket, and operate it from that comfy looking seat. You will have it made.:D Speaking of "twang", are ya sure you didn't get that crank from Mike, down in Kentucky? LOL

:cheers:
Gregg,

That sure is a nice seat on that tractor. Love to have one of those on my Wheel Horse!
 
I'll stop running it and clean it up again. Absolutely don't want to damage it. Just wanted to try it out some it was driving me nuts. I haven't run a saw that large since like 35 years ago...or longer really... I don't have a vac tester so....

Begin edited in thoughts:

How hard is this job on the crankseals, what tool do I need? Carb gasket from the outside looks good, but who knows. It's a rigid mount, so I would *imagine* just some permatex black or something like that might work with a new gasket and last twenty years or more. Now those seals...never done it.

OK, how bad can a leak get before it for sure will cause real bad damage, I assume there it would be lean seize maybe?

Now I see on this thread http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/114104.htm there was going to be some sort of repair manual posted, did this ever happen?

Anyway, sucks outta money..beyond broke....I can get the shop guy in town to compression test or vac test, which ever he does, for under 20 bucks and he knows what he is doing. Tearing it down that far for the seals, might as well do new rings at least. Same twenty bucks might as well just assume all the seals and gaskets should be replaced anyway. Not sure what rings are, I would guess similar around 20. The carb seems to be functioning fine and the line looks good, didn't pull the little filter out yet though, but zero fuel supply issues. Throttles up good, starts easy, then on idle it "almost" stops but keeps moving like at...well not much, not a fast speed but not creeping either, moving, I can set it down with the chain touching a log and it cuts for a sec and stops and holds there easy.

Starts to add up! I see why a lot of folks just want a new saw with a warranty, hahaha! Well, that ain't happening for me, 70 cc saws in my area start at over 800 and change and go up from there. And I need a big saw somehow, some of the stuff here is a bit much for the smaller saws I have.

Before I would get all worked up about crank seals I would just try backing out the low screw on the carb just a little and see if that is the problem. Never know what kinda guy adjusted the carb before. The low could be a little lean which would cause it to idle a little too high.

Once you back the low screw out a little I'm guessing you will have to turn the idle up then I would back the low out a little more as long as it is'nt loading up and has a decent throttle response you're alright.

Crank seals are not to common of a failure on these saws.
 
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