Nik's Poulan Thread

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Zogger's post about using his 245, got me wanting to actually use mine for work, not just cookie cutting. So this morning I loaded it and a 4000, as backup, lol, and headed to the woods. Took down a 2ft. Ash with the old 245A and bucked it up. The saw worked and ran flawless! I have a 24" bar on mine. If someone was to take all my saws, and leave me with just the 245, I would get along just fine and be a happy man.

Some will say the lack of anti-vibe feature as a draw back. But I really don't think its bad at all. 73.4cc of old school sound filling the woods, was a pleasing sound too. I took a picture of the 245 & 4000 sitting together. Kind looks like the old man showing his teenage son how we used to cut wood back in my day...LOL

Gregg,

The 245 is one of poulans finest IMO.

Glad to see ya got it out Gregg, no 245 deserves to sit and listen to all it's siblings make all the noise!

 

[Snyper438]

I noticed cutting today it just won't idle down enough to stop spinning, or maybe the clutch springs are weak. I looked, the idle screw is out past the stop limit on the carb, so that isn't the problem. I'll have to look at that carb again and gingerly find and start turning the other screws I guess. It just was starting and cutting so good I didn't want to mess with it. Still not comfortable doing tuning. I'm afraid I'll lean it just a scosh too much and toast it, what ever "it" is I am working on at the time. I do it, but not comfortable yet..

That chain that looked new on the "das boot" bar was weird, an unusual problem I have never seen before. I was sharpening it for the first time, the right side cutters fit my file well (brand new file, first use), the left side were all so tight I barely could get the file slid in and stroking. I had to twist and push hard carefully like three or four times to get it to where it would slide like it should and do the filecut smooth. I wonder if it was an "off" production run, just by a few thousandths or something. "Yo, boss, we just ran half a mile of left hand 3/8ths cutters that are three thousands too big, what should we do with it"? "ship it"!

What's the low idle mix at? Mine ended up at about 1 1/8 out on low after final tune and 1 1/4 on high after installing the carb kit. Starting settings i got were 1 turn out for low and 1 1/8 for high. I'm no expert, by any means, but that's what i found on the Tillotson rebuild sheet.

Anyone else feel free to chime in if that doesn't sound right, it's been run several times for fairly long periods (a few tank fulls) with no problems at those settings. Idles good and no hesitation during any running speed or throttle up.

Ed

 

[Eccentric]

I remember you 306/245 gurus mentioning that the carb adaptor to crankcase gasket being a common air leak problem on these saws. I'd look there before I worried too much about the crank seals.

Swiped a pic that Mweba posted a few hundred pages ago. The gasket I speak of is not the carb-adaptor gasket, but the adaptor-crankcase gasket. Just to the left of the AF cover stud in the pic.

If that gasket is leaking and causing an idle problem, then you can probably detect it by spraying WD40 on the gasket surface while the saw's idling. Idle speed should drop when the leaking area is sprayed.

 

[zogger]

Okey doke, drops when sprayed

I remember you 306/245 gurus mentioning that the carb adaptor to crankcase gasket being a common air leak problem on these saws. I'd look there before I worried too much about the crank seals.

Swiped a pic that Mweba posted a few hundred pages ago. The gasket I speak of is not the carb-adaptor gasket, but the adaptor-crankcase gasket. Just to the left of the AF cover stud in the pic.



If that gasket is leaking and causing an idle problem, then you can probably detect it by spraying WD40 on the gasket surface while the saw's idling. Idle speed should drop when the leaking area is sprayed.

I'll give that a shot, thanks!

 

[zogger]

Don't know

What's the low idle mix at? Mine ended up at about 1 1/8 out on low after final tune and 1 1/4 on high after installing the carb kit. Starting settings i got were 1 turn out for low and 1 1/8 for high. I'm no expert, by any means, but that's what i found on the Tillotson rebuild sheet.

Anyone else feel free to chime in if that doesn't sound right, it's been run several times for fairly long periods (a few tank fulls) with no problems at those settings. Idles good and no hesitation during any running speed or throttle up.

Ed

Really don't what the settings are, I just ran it as is, how it came stock. I'll check that after I first check that carb adapter gasket area for a leak. If that leaks, no sense tuning it until the other is fixed first.

 

[promac850]

Alright... before I start messing with the cylinder and piston from the Poulan, is it a chromed bore, or chromed piston? I can't really tell all that well with all of the aluminum transfer and crap scraped on just about every surface of both of the parts.

 

[Snyper438]

Really don't what the settings are, I just ran it as is, how it came stock. I'll check that after I first check that carb adapter gasket area for a leak. If that leaks, no sense tuning it until the other is fixed first.

Completely understand wanting to check it all out. Don't take chances with mine either. The seal on mine wasn't leaking before I put in the carb kit but was so stiff I replaced it anyways. Figured I wasn't planning on pulling it apart again so why not do it all while in there. Here's hoping it's an easy fix for ya.

 

[monruss]

Fuel line question Poulan/Cman 3.0

I picked up a non running 3.0 Cman at a yard sale on the cheap. I rebuilt the carb and noticed there is a line that comes from the crankcase that was broken. I checked the service manual and it indicates the carb should have 3 hose barbs, one for tank vent, one for the fuel line, and one for crankcase line. On this carb it has two lines to the carb, one from the tank vent (top of carb), and the other from the fuel line (side of carb). What about the crankcase line? I'm not a mechanic but I thought I needed the line from the crankcase as the impulse line for the carb. I checked my pp 330 and it has a similar set up with the top line going to the crankcase (pretty sure tough to see) and the line on the side from the fuel line, and I couldn't see a tank vent. Any help you can offer would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Nardoo]

Sorry for the lowbrow humor. Couldn't help it...

That Bolens with the F.E.L. looks VERY handy Al. Nice job. What size/brand/type rear tires are those? They don't look like the usual lug-type tires I've seen in GT sizes. More (but smaller) lugs. Steeper 'V' too. They look like they'd give good traction in the soft stuff and on side-hills, without being so jarring on hard surfaces. I'd like to put a set of those on my garden tractor. Has 23X10.5X12 turf tires on it now. Not good for anything but pavement. Also, those front tires look more agressive than the GT turf-type tires I've seen. What size/brand/type are those? I've got some worn out 16X8 turf tires now...

This is on-topic................................There are many Poulan-branded GT's out there that could benefit from better tires.

At the risk of being off topic here goes! The tyres are the original Goodyear Terra tyres which were an option from Bolens. Don't know what size they are and yes they give a lot more traction than the turf tyres on my John Deere.
The little XXV deluxe was giving me fits but it is all sorted now since I put a replacement reed in. I thought it was OK but they obviously need to seal well. It is the 38cc version and cuts really well. Muffler slots were opened up a little with a screw driver but the bark is not too bad. Only problem I have now is a split fuel vent in the tank cap. It was spitting fuel everywhere until I made a new one out of some bicycle inner tube. Screwed in place with a 1/16" metal thread, it is holding OK. I used the saw to cut a pile of knotty red gum and man it really runs. Can't beat your US engineering.

Al.

 

[rms61moparman]

You guys missed one HELLOVA good time yesterday, here at ModifiedMarks with Super3!!!
Worked on saws, shot the breeze...worked on more saws, enjoyed good fellowship.....cut a broken topped oak, ran some saws.....ate good food, worked on more saws, shot the breeze!!!
The kind of day I LIVE for!!!


Mike

 

[Snyper438]

You guys missed one HELLOVA good time yesterday, here at ModifiedMarks with Super3!!!
Worked on saws, shot the breeze...worked on more saws, enjoyed good fellowship.....cut a broken topped oak, ran some saws.....ate good food, worked on more saws, shot the breeze!!!
The kind of day I LIVE for!!!


Mike

I ain't above making a trip, lol. Sounds like y'all had a great time.

 

[redunshee]

I picked up a non running 3.0 Cman at a yard sale on the cheap. I rebuilt the carb and noticed there is a line that comes from the crankcase that was broken. I checked the service manual and it indicates the carb should have 3 hose barbs, one for tank vent, one for the fuel line, and one for crankcase line. On this carb it has two lines to the carb, one from the tank vent (top of carb), and the other from the fuel line (side of carb). What about the crankcase line? I'm not a mechanic but I thought I needed the line from the crankcase as the impulse line for the carb. I checked my pp 330 and it has a similar set up with the top line going to the crankcase (pretty sure tough to see) and the line on the side from the fuel line, and I couldn't see a tank vent. Any help you can offer would be appreciated.
Thanks

Something is amiss. My 3000 and 3300 has an impulse line that attaches to carb and the fuel line. The vent line just sticks out of the tank and isn't attached to anything.. Have never heard of a vent line being attached to the carb. The impulse line coming from the crakcase goes to the carb as well as the fuel lne. That's two barbs.
Bob

 

[Modifiedmark]

You guys missed one HELLOVA good time yesterday, here at ModifiedMarks with Super3!!!
Worked on saws, shot the breeze...worked on more saws, enjoyed good fellowship.....cut a broken topped oak, ran some saws.....ate good food, worked on more saws, shot the breeze!!!
The kind of day I LIVE for!!!


Mike

You forgot, "drank beer"

 

[monruss]

Quote Originally Posted by monruss View Post
I picked up a non running 3.0 Cman at a yard sale on the cheap. I rebuilt the carb and noticed there is a line that comes from the crankcase that was broken. I checked the service manual and it indicates the carb should have 3 hose barbs, one for tank vent, one for the fuel line, and one for crankcase line. On this carb it has two lines to the carb, one from the tank vent (top of carb), and the other from the fuel line (side of carb). What about the crankcase line? I'm not a mechanic but I thought I needed the line from the crankcase as the impulse line for the carb. I checked my pp 330 and it has a similar set up with the top line going to the crankcase (pretty sure tough to see) and the line on the side from the fuel line, and I couldn't see a tank vent. Any help you can offer would be appreciated.
Thanks

Something is amiss. My 3000 and 3300 has an impulse line that attaches to carb and the fuel line. The vent line just sticks out of the tank and isn't attached to anything.. Have never heard of a vent line being attached to the carb. The impulse line coming from the crakcase goes to the carb as well as the fuel lne. That's two barbs.

Bob

Thanks for your reply, I went back and checked my service manual and it does say the impulse line and the fuel line are attached to the carb. I believe I am missing something on the tank vent line. The service manual called for a tank vent cap for the line? Any idea what I can use for that.

 

[monruss]

Something is amiss. My 3000 and 3300 has an impulse line that attaches to carb and the fuel line. The vent line just sticks out of the tank and isn't attached to anything.. Have never heard of a vent line being attached to the carb. The impulse line coming from the crakcase goes to the carb as well as the fuel lne. That's two barbs.
Bob

Thanks for your reply, I went back and checked my service manual and it does say the impulse line and the fuel line are attached to the carb. I believe I am missing something on the tank vent line. The service manual called for a tank vent cap for the line? Any idea what I can use for that.

Tim

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

You guys missed one HELLOVA good time yesterday, here at ModifiedMarks with Super3!!!
Worked on saws, shot the breeze...worked on more saws, enjoyed good fellowship.....cut a broken topped oak, ran some saws.....ate good food, worked on more saws, shot the breeze!!!
The kind of day I LIVE for!!!


Mike

Would've liked to have been there Mike, but I will see you guys here in a few weeks at Gregg's.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

You forgot, "drank beer"

He probably thought that was a given, I know I did lol.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

Can someone tell me if the craftsman model 358.354870 is the 3400 or 3700?

 

[redunshee]

Thanks for your reply, I went back and checked my service manual and it does say the impulse line and the fuel line are attached to the carb. I believe I am missing something on the tank vent line. The service manual called for a tank vent cap for the line? Any idea what I can use for that.

Tim

Normally there is a duckbill valve that goes inside the tank attached to the vent line. In lieu of that you can cut the vent line at a 45 degrees and attach a small sheet metal screw.
Bob

 

[67 Mustang]

Can someone tell me if the craftsman model 358.354870 is the 3400 or 3700?

Cylinder part # on Craftsman site is 530012069 which looks up to 3700, John.