Nik's Poulan Thread

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Yep, Craftsman Pro 4.2 358.358870 and Craftsman 5.2 358.358890

I know where a couple are.

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Mark what kind of bar is on the saw in the back?

Thanks Scott
 
I'm not Mark, but I'll bet its a vintage Oregon. Always liked the styling on those.
Thanks Jeff

Scott, I won't speak for Mark, but I think its one just like this one. Must have been the pre-PowerMatch Oregon bars.

245A003.jpg


:cheers:
Gregg,
Thanks Gregg, glad to see you again. I thought one of those would look good on my Dayton/245sa.
 
Hi guys,i have a Poulan 2250 and i am looking for a bar.The problem is that i can't find anywhere the specs for this saw ( engine displacement or horsepower) or the type (1 to 7).What type of bar should i put on it,16" or 18"?
 
4200 seals

Duane, what in the world? You having a little PMS this week? :hmm3grin2orange:

Take it easy, its just a seal and there out there, no problem. National 471466.

Google that #. It is one of the easy ones to find and get. Google that # and see. Go to your NAPA, Autozone, Carquest, ORileys or whatever and order them. Or go to any brg supply like Motion Industries etc. OR go to ebay, there listed there as well.

Hate a 1975 saw cause you have to wait to get a seal for it? Damn man, you aint got another saw to use in the meantime?

Sorry for busting your chops but you had that one coming... :ices_rofl:

Thanks Mark
Well I guess I couldn't find any seals because I was lookin up the wrong number!!!! Old post way back when had the number at 471446!!! So my bad. Now onto findin some 471466
Thanks for the number, I need to be straitened out every once in a while. I want to run this saw I really like it built like a tank. Oh I think I have plenty saws to run just like that green color.

Thanks and happy Holidays
Duane
 
Hi guys,i have a Poulan 2250 and i am looking for a bar.The problem is that i can't find anywhere the specs for this saw ( engine displacement or horsepower) or the type (1 to 7).What type of bar should i put on it,16" or 18"?

I believe that your saw is 42cc as the P&C are compatible with a 2375 and many other models. Type would refer to when it was built in the model line. I don't have an answer to that. You could use a 18in. bar or a 16in. bar. I muff modded my 2375 and it runs an 18 very well.
Bob
 
I believe that your saw is 42cc as the P&C are compatible with a 2375 and many other models. Type would refer to when it was built in the model line. I don't have an answer to that. You could use a 18in. bar or a 16in. bar. I muff modded my 2375 and it runs an 18 very well.
Bob

Thanks a lot Bob.I modded the muffler and it really gave a nice boost to the saw.It runs a lot stronger (and louder also :msp_tongue:).The sticker on the saw says that it assembled in 2005.
 
Thanks Mark
Well I guess I couldn't find any seals because I was lookin up the wrong number!!!! Old post way back when had the number at 471446!!! So my bad. Now onto findin some 471466
Thanks for the number, I need to be straitened out every once in a while. I want to run this saw I really like it built like a tank. Oh I think I have plenty saws to run just like that green color.

Thanks and happy Holidays
Duane

Guess that means you won't be selling it to me for "parts" then........:cry:

Nick
 
Picked up a 3700

Got a 3700 that has about 2 lbs of dirt and a stuck crank. Removed cylinder and found that rod wouldn't rotate around crank. Got it freed up but decided to split case to get at problem. Seems saw got wet as there was pitting around case. Cleaned it up and P&C are in real good shape. Used some PB Blaster to free crank and rod then sprayed with some lithium grease. Took care of the issue as they are nice and free. Question is am I better off to replace seals with case split or wait until case is assembled? Suppose if I grease crank shafts, I could replace seals while the case is spilt and the rubber seal lips should stay in place as opposed to turning inside out. Thoughts? Six of one, or half dozen of the other?
Bob
 
Got a 3700 that has about 2 lbs of dirt and a stuck crank. Removed cylinder and found that rod wouldn't rotate around crank. Got it freed up but decided to split case to get at problem. Seems saw got wet as there was pitting around case. Cleaned it up and P&C are in real good shape. Used some PB Blaster to free crank and rod then sprayed with some lithium grease. Took care of the issue as they are nice and free. Question is am I better off to replace seals with case split or wait until case is assembled? Suppose if I grease crank shafts, I could replace seals while the case is spilt and the rubber seal lips should stay in place as opposed to turning inside out. Thoughts? Six of one, or half dozen of the other?
Bob

Iam doing a 3800 right now, and I did it with the cases split, I thought it would be easier not workin around the crank.

Scott
 
4200 for sale (not yet)

Guess that means you won't be selling it to me for "parts" then........:cry:

Nick

Not yet, found the seals at Autoparts house, going to pick them up tonight, might try to install them tonight but might not have time. I'm sure it'll be stay'n with me. For now!!!!!!!

Duane
 
Like zogger said, "Everybody needs a 2 saw plan, but for the time being, it will have to be a 38cc and a 46cc. Maybe I can find a nice 70+cc saw for my next project......:msp_thumbup:

Nick
 
Like zogger said, "Everybody needs a 2 saw plan, but for the time being, it will have to be a 38cc and a 46cc. Maybe I can find a nice 70+cc saw for my next project......:msp_thumbup:

Nick

heckya, just keep your peelers peeled. I was sweating out that 245A, thought the pirates..err..I mean the fine gentlemen collectors would find it and snatch it up before I could get up the loot..HAHAHAHA

My two saw plan previous to this past year was mostly a husky 36cc and my 24" biodrive sammich and coffee powered bowsaw (and axe). Did all my wood, and still could. The only diff now is I can take larger chunks, but that also means I have to hump and move and split larger chunks..sometimes I start to think maybe it isn't worth it...

then I come to my senses....WOODROBICS! THE SPORT OF PAUPER KINGS!


Boss had a 55 rancher he gave me to use, but I tried to only use it when I absolutely had to for work as in authorized, not for my own wood. But I did some..my mistake, I screwed up. Dang muffler rattled loose one day and it toasted. Didn't take very long either, and I didn't notice it until the excess heat went through my left hand glove.

It is on the end of the bench as a todo project once I have done several more rebuilds, then I will show him it is back working, and give it back, and only use my own saws from now on.
 
Iam doing a 3800 right now, and I did it with the cases split, I thought it would be easier not workin around the crank.

Scott

You're likely correct, Scott. I'll just have to be careful not to let the rubber seal to flip outwhen installing the crank. Though I suppose the same thing could happen if I waited until the two halves were reassembled.
Bob
 
You're likely correct, Scott. I'll just have to be careful not to let the rubber seal to flip outwhen installing the crank. Though I suppose the same thing could happen if I waited until the two halves were reassembled.
Bob

Well here is my advice, put em in after the cases have been put back together. There is enough going on getting the case halves lined up and not knocking the sealant off and such already let alone trying to guide that crank trough the seal without buggering it up as well.

Since you have the cases apart though, dont miss the chance to counter sink the outside of the case bores to make it easier to drive the seals into the case. Makes all the difference in the world.

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A little moto seal around the seal helps seal em up to the case as well.

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You still need a seal protector over the crank when driving the seals in though to keep from flipping the lips. I use a piece of beer can wrapped around the crank.
 
2 saw plan

My cousins anyway. In my family we burn wood. Me, my dad, my uncle, my BIL, and both my cousins. My cousin Brian started with one saw. Then he wanted an S25 after using one of mine. So I found him a nice later model one that he uses a lot. Then one day I worked with him on a cleanup job. We had a big maple to cut up, I brought my PP395. He used it and said "I want one". So I set him up with a nice 3.7 that has now replaced his 290 for the most part. This is the truth: the 290 is his loaner saw! Which is crazy, cause it was expensive and I have it right now for service. Whoever cut with it must have hit the ground or pavement since there is black grit all over it and the new chain he bought is now junk. I only let a couple people use a saw now and then and they are experienced with saws. So I have his 3 saws and decided to post a pic.
Picture113.jpg
 

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