Yep, Craftsman Pro 4.2 358.358870 and Craftsman 5.2 358.358890
I know where a couple are.
Mark what kind of bar is on the saw in the back?
Thanks Scott
Yep, Craftsman Pro 4.2 358.358870 and Craftsman 5.2 358.358890
I know where a couple are.
Mark what kind of bar is on the saw in the back?
Thanks Scott
Thanks JeffI'm not Mark, but I'll bet its a vintage Oregon. Always liked the styling on those.
Thanks Gregg, glad to see you again. I thought one of those would look good on my Dayton/245sa.Scott, I won't speak for Mark, but I think its one just like this one. Must have been the pre-PowerMatch Oregon bars.
Gregg,
Duane, what in the world? You having a little PMS this week? :hmm3grin2orange:
Take it easy, its just a seal and there out there, no problem. National 471466.
Google that #. It is one of the easy ones to find and get. Google that # and see. Go to your NAPA, Autozone, Carquest, ORileys or whatever and order them. Or go to any brg supply like Motion Industries etc. OR go to ebay, there listed there as well.
Hate a 1975 saw cause you have to wait to get a seal for it? Damn man, you aint got another saw to use in the meantime?
Sorry for busting your chops but you had that one coming...
Hi guys,i have a Poulan 2250 and i am looking for a bar.The problem is that i can't find anywhere the specs for this saw ( engine displacement or horsepower) or the type (1 to 7).What type of bar should i put on it,16" or 18"?
I believe that your saw is 42cc as the P&C are compatible with a 2375 and many other models. Type would refer to when it was built in the model line. I don't have an answer to that. You could use a 18in. bar or a 16in. bar. I muff modded my 2375 and it runs an 18 very well.
Bob
Thanks Mark
Well I guess I couldn't find any seals because I was lookin up the wrong number!!!! Old post way back when had the number at 471446!!! So my bad. Now onto findin some 471466
Thanks for the number, I need to be straitened out every once in a while. I want to run this saw I really like it built like a tank. Oh I think I have plenty saws to run just like that green color.
Thanks and happy Holidays
Duane
Guess that means you won't be selling it to me for "parts" then........
Nick
Got a 3700 that has about 2 lbs of dirt and a stuck crank. Removed cylinder and found that rod wouldn't rotate around crank. Got it freed up but decided to split case to get at problem. Seems saw got wet as there was pitting around case. Cleaned it up and P&C are in real good shape. Used some PB Blaster to free crank and rod then sprayed with some lithium grease. Took care of the issue as they are nice and free. Question is am I better off to replace seals with case split or wait until case is assembled? Suppose if I grease crank shafts, I could replace seals while the case is spilt and the rubber seal lips should stay in place as opposed to turning inside out. Thoughts? Six of one, or half dozen of the other?
Bob
Guess that means you won't be selling it to me for "parts" then........
Nick
Like zogger said, "Everybody needs a 2 saw plan, but for the time being, it will have to be a 38cc and a 46cc. Maybe I can find a nice 70+cc saw for my next project......:msp_thumbup:
Nick
Iam doing a 3800 right now, and I did it with the cases split, I thought it would be easier not workin around the crank.
Scott
You're likely correct, Scott. I'll just have to be careful not to let the rubber seal to flip outwhen installing the crank. Though I suppose the same thing could happen if I waited until the two halves were reassembled.
Bob