Nik's Poulan Thread

[zogger]

I've got a 2150 power head if any of you are interested. Probably just the coil out, it was beginning to act up the end of last summer. It has a fairly new wrap handle, haven't looked close at the bar to see what other brand of saws it may fit, so I'm holding that out until I find out. It's either gonna to go to one of you all or the trash, er I mean recycle.
Steve
Wylie, Texas

So many of those type out there, you should be able to find another one and swap the coil out. I would be most shops around you have several in their junk pile, might could get you a coil module for like five bucks or something. I think about any of those wild thing/predator/wood shark/newer type coils would work.

Here is the part number 530039198

If you pull one from a straight gassed saw chances are good it works, and you can always check for spark from any junkers you find.

Shipping is just so high on those things it is better to try and fixit locally.

 

[zogger]

These dealers know about ebay. They just can't take the time to do all the stuff they have to do to sell there and it wouldn't pay to hire some help to sell there either. I had a deal once where I would sell for someone else for half the profit and I would do all the work...that didn't work out too well for either of us! Ebay, I think might just be for retired people unless you're one of those mass merchandisers who sell Chinese junk.

I still think that dealer could have done one auction and sold the whole lot, rather than paying the trash company to throw them out.
"One lot, 50 old saws, no reserve, local pickup only"

someone could have gotten quite the haul for cheap.

Heck, this is how I have been getting most of my saws now, small truck loads for cheap, all junkers. Not working very many hours at all on them, an easy 25% back to runners, those are usually just air blast clean, fuel lines, another 25% or so a little more work back to runners, the remainder parts. My criteria for most work is scored piston and cylinder yes/no, if I want to mess with them or not.

Really, my biggest expense so far is buying stupid different sizes of fuel line at too expensive per foot locally. If I could get rolls ahead of some various sizes, at a wholesale like price, I could knock out a lot more. I even just clean the filters back out. I barely ever have to do carb kits, I am real careful on disassembly and just reuse what is there. As long as the diaphram pump isn't torn, most of the time, they get back to working.

Anyway, just commenting it is a shame to see dumpster loads of saws go to the chinese scrap merchants. Or anything for that matter. Make me dictator for a day, one of my dictates would be no more export of scrap metals, as a national economic and security issue. This would also help to slow down the copper thieves, domestic security. It's freekin out of control and has resulted in huge crime increases in every area of the nation, and is resulting in tons of manufacturing jobs going poof. Just annoys me to no end, that's all, I hate waste, throw away society, throw away jobs, etc.

*shrugs*

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Kris, I absolutely love this 4000. It pulls a 24" bar so well. I would pick up a 3400 on the cheap even though I don't need it, if I could find one.

Nick

If you want a work saw and don't care if it's green, look for a craftsman version 3800. You'll get a 60cc saw, but no chrome bore. Most of the boys in here steered me to my first one and I still use it the most.

 

[nick 55]

Honestly Kris, that 4620 I have is great for around the yard(I have a BUNCH of trees) work and rides on the back of the mower. For any bigger wood cutting, the 4000 fills the bill nicely. I still have absolutely no reason to own a 6 cube saw, but what can I say, I crave power!

Nick

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I still think that dealer could have done one auction and sold the whole lot, rather than paying the trash company to throw them out.
"One lot, 50 old saws, no reserve, local pickup only"

someone could have gotten quite the haul for cheap.

Heck, this is how I have been getting most of my saws now, small truck loads for cheap, all junkers. Not working very many hours at all on them, an easy 25% back to runners, those are usually just air blast clean, fuel lines, another 25% or so a little more work back to runners, the remainder parts. My criteria for most work is scored piston and cylinder yes/no, if I want to mess with them or not.

Really, my biggest expense so far is buying stupid different sizes of fuel line at too expensive per foot locally. If I could get rolls ahead of some various sizes, at a wholesale like price, I could knock out a lot more. I even just clean the filters back out. I barely ever have to do carb kits, I am real careful on disassembly and just reuse what is there. As long as the diaphram pump isn't torn, most of the time, they get back to working.

Anyway, just commenting it is a shame to see dumpster loads of saws go to the chinese scrap merchants. Or anything for that matter. Make me dictator for a day, one of my dictates would be no more export of scrap metals, as a national economic and security issue. This would also help to slow down the copper thieves, domestic security. It's freekin out of control and has resulted in huge crime increases in every area of the nation, and is resulting in tons of manufacturing jobs going poof. Just annoys me to no end, that's all, I hate waste, throw away society, throw away jobs, etc.

*shrugs*

Don't get me wrong, I agree with you wholeheartedly, it's just my experience around here and what I've heard these guys say. I called a guy the other day that I know has saws pile up in his shop and asked him about buying some of them that he didn't want and he wouldn't do it. I know he had an auction of his used saws once and got pennies on the dollar of what they were worth. I told him I'd pay more than that and he still wouldn't budge. I'm not gonna bother him any more, I still have several sources for saws but right now I'm not in any big hurry to buy any, I'll probably wait till summer before I get serious again.

 

[zogger]

Don't get me wrong, I agree with you wholeheartedly, it's just my experience around here and what I've heard these guys say. I called a guy the other day that I know has saws pile up in his shop and asked him about buying some of them that he didn't want and he wouldn't do it. I know he had an auction of his used saws once and got pennies on the dollar of what they were worth. I told him I'd pay more than that and he still wouldn't budge. I'm not gonna bother him any more, I still have several sources for saws but right now I'm not in any big hurry to buy any, I'll probably wait till summer before I get serious again.

Ya, know what you are saying. I think a lot of shops only want to do the real easy repairs, on high end saws, and mostly just sell new ones. Homeowner saws they either don't like working on them or figure what they charge for labor is too high. They give some outrageous quote on repairs, and this becomes a self fulfilling prophecy, they start accumulating cheap junkers. The HO then abandons the saw to the shop and goes and buys another throw away. The shop owners might think having used ones on the market locally to them will hurt their sales, so they'd rather just scrap out the abandoned ones.

I think this is foolish, because invariably they don't offer as cheap of prices on the HO class saws, then the HOs go to the box stores and get another cheap saw. So now the shop guy gets zero sales, zero repair money, and a pile of junkers, then complains up and down about "the market" and "pennies on the dollar".

I'm lucky locally to me I can get *some* junkers for cheap from one shop, only real old beat on or HO class saws, the other purposefully destroys/trashes abandoned saws, zero used parts or used saws for sale. Buy a new top bucks saw or pay top bucks for a repair, and that's the only two choices anyone walking in has. That latter one is the expensive german shop and exactly why I swapped away my one and only german saw I ever got as a junker, and will continue to swap away any of those I might get. Local dealer non support. If I am my own support, I want cheap/reliable/easy to work on, parts availability all over of the used kind. Same with like..trucks. Swapped Herr Kutter for a running 3400 and some bars and loops. I think I did OK on that swap.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Ya, know what you are saying. I think a lot of shops only want to do the real easy repairs, on high end saws, and mostly just sell new ones. Homeowner saws they either don't like working on them or figure what they charge for labor is too high. They give some outrageous quote on repairs, and this becomes a self fulfilling prophecy, they start accumulating cheap junkers. The HO then abandons the saw to the shop and goes and buys another throw away. The shop owners might think having used ones on the market locally to them will hurt their sales, so they'd rather just scrap out the abandoned ones.

I think this is foolish, because invariably they don't offer as cheap of prices on the HO class saws, then the HOs go to the box stores and get another cheap saw. So now the shop guy gets zero sales, zero repair money, and a pile of junkers, then complains up and down about "the market" and "pennies on the dollar".

I'm lucky locally to me I can get *some* junkers for cheap from one shop, only real old beat on or HO class saws, the other purposefully destroys/trashes abandoned saws, zero used parts or used saws for sale. Buy a new top bucks saw or pay top bucks for a repair, and that's the only two choices anyone walking in has. That latter one is the expensive german shop and exactly why I swapped away my one and only german saw I ever got as a junker, and will continue to swap away any of those I might get. Local dealer non support. If I am my own support, I want cheap/reliable/easy to work on, parts availability all over of the used kind. Same with like..trucks. Swapped Herr Kutter for a running 3400 and some bars and loops. I think I did OK on that swap.

I have one shop that actually has called me when he gets some saws he doesn't want. That's a great situation to be in because some of the saws he doesn't want are exactly what I do want! I really like the older Macs, Poulans, etc. that are easy to work on and are fully adjustable. I generally don't look for Stihl because of the cost and the cost of parts.

 

[3000 FPS]

. I generally don't look for Stihl because of the cost and the cost of parts.

You said it exactly. For me right now it is Poulans and Jreds.

 

[Eccentric]

Funny thing about that, same thing happened to me so I asked the dealer if I could come in occasionally and buy a few parts saws from him and he said "no". So what's the deal? Would he rather they be in the landfill than to sell them to a potential customer?

I still think that dealer could have done one auction and sold the whole lot, rather than paying the trash company to throw them out.
"One lot, 50 old saws, no reserve, local pickup only"

someone could have gotten quite the haul for cheap.

Heck, this is how I have been getting most of my saws now, small truck loads for cheap, all junkers. Not working very many hours at all on them, an easy 25% back to runners, those are usually just air blast clean, fuel lines, another 25% or so a little more work back to runners, the remainder parts. My criteria for most work is scored piston and cylinder yes/no, if I want to mess with them or not.

Really, my biggest expense so far is buying stupid different sizes of fuel line at too expensive per foot locally. If I could get rolls ahead of some various sizes, at a wholesale like price, I could knock out a lot more. I even just clean the filters back out. I barely ever have to do carb kits, I am real careful on disassembly and just reuse what is there. As long as the diaphram pump isn't torn, most of the time, they get back to working.

Anyway, just commenting it is a shame to see dumpster loads of saws go to the chinese scrap merchants. Or anything for that matter. Make me dictator for a day, one of my dictates would be no more export of scrap metals, as a national economic and security issue. This would also help to slow down the copper thieves, domestic security. It's freekin out of control and has resulted in huge crime increases in every area of the nation, and is resulting in tons of manufacturing jobs going poof. Just annoys me to no end, that's all, I hate waste, throw away society, throw away jobs, etc.

*shrugs*

Most of the shops in my area "got rid" of all their old mag years ago. Local and state enviromental regulations make keeping a pile of old junk behind the shop an expensive mistake. One shop was CLOSED DOWN because somebody supposedly saw an "oil slick" (light rainbow sheen really) in his parking lot during the rainey season. He's the one guy that used to keep a large amount of old saws and other equipment around. The other shops all got rid of their 'junk' after that (those that weren't already scrapping all of it).

I saw something really sad a couple years ago. I was driving on an elevated freeway over the industrial section of eastern san francisco. Saw a HUGE scrap opperation. Mountains of junk, and mountains of shredded metal. Trucks hauling containers full of scrap metal to the ports where the china-bound freighters waited. What really killed me was the cherry looking IHC pickup sitting on top of one of those mountains of junk like the cherry on a sundae. It took me about 15 minutes to work my way over to the right yard. As I pulled up, I saw a large crane lift the IHC pickup and swing it over to the shredder. Damn think looked MUCH nicer than mine, appeared complete, and could have given many parts to my rig.

I see trailers full of crushed cars being hauled into the city to be shredded and sent to china. Once I saw a flatbed with 8 dead old American 4WD vehicles. Five of them were IHC. Two travelalls, two pickups, and a Scout. A local yard must've scrapped out some deceased guy's IHC collection. All still had front and rear axles and many other good parts on them before being flattened. I had to pull over and cool down....

Don't get me wrong, I agree with you wholeheartedly, it's just my experience around here and what I've heard these guys say. I called a guy the other day that I know has saws pile up in his shop and asked him about buying some of them that he didn't want and he wouldn't do it. I know he had an auction of his used saws once and got pennies on the dollar of what they were worth. I told him I'd pay more than that and he still wouldn't budge. I'm not gonna bother him any more, I still have several sources for saws but right now I'm not in any big hurry to buy any, I'll probably wait till summer before I get serious again.

Ya, know what you are saying. I think a lot of shops only want to do the real easy repairs, on high end saws, and mostly just sell new ones. Homeowner saws they either don't like working on them or figure what they charge for labor is too high. They give some outrageous quote on repairs, and this becomes a self fulfilling prophecy, they start accumulating cheap junkers. The HO then abandons the saw to the shop and goes and buys another throw away. The shop owners might think having used ones on the market locally to them will hurt their sales, so they'd rather just scrap out the abandoned ones.

I think this is foolish, because invariably they don't offer as cheap of prices on the HO class saws, then the HOs go to the box stores and get another cheap saw. So now the shop guy gets zero sales, zero repair money, and a pile of junkers, then complains up and down about "the market" and "pennies on the dollar".

I'm lucky locally to me I can get *some* junkers for cheap from one shop, only real old beat on or HO class saws, the other purposefully destroys/trashes abandoned saws, zero used parts or used saws for sale. Buy a new top bucks saw or pay top bucks for a repair, and that's the only two choices anyone walking in has. That latter one is the expensive german shop and exactly why I swapped away my one and only german saw I ever got as a junker, and will continue to swap away any of those I might get. Local dealer non support. If I am my own support, I want cheap/reliable/easy to work on, parts availability all over of the used kind. Same with like..trucks. Swapped Herr Kutter for a running 3400 and some bars and loops. I think I did OK on that swap.

Even before my local shops were forced to get rid of their junk fleets, most had that weird attitude where they didn't want to sell anything old. Not even parts. They'd let them sit on shelves behind the shops, and would maybe pull a part off for their own uses every now and then. One had a small dumpster behind his shop that he'd toss saws into. When I was about 12 years old, I remember seing that dumpster FILLED to the top with old McCullochs. I asked about getting one for a project, and the owner told me "you don't want that old junk, you can't get parts for those". That was almost 27 years ago.

I have one shop that actually has called me when he gets some saws he doesn't want. That's a great situation to be in because some of the saws he doesn't want are exactly what I do want! I really like the older Macs, Poulans, etc. that are easy to work on and are fully adjustable. I generally don't look for Stihl because of the cost and the cost of parts.

There's one shop left near me that may start holding stuff for me (instead of always scrapping it). I'm working on that deal. Time to bring them lunch and/or some beer on a saturday afternoon! They told me to NOT send anyone to them for old saws and parts however...

 

[nick 55]

There's only one shop I can think of in my area and I think they would bill me shop time for bringing them beer and lunch. It's too bad because I live in an older community that has LOTS of pasture and farm ground. Which makes me believe they have some older clientele(or maybe not based on their prices) that have brought in saws only to leave with a new one.

Nick

 

[8433jeff]

Most old stuff is a low reward deal for shops. If they hang on to a saw for parts, they need to move the parts, and as we find out all too often, sometimes that part breaks or really isn't much better than what its replacing. You, as a shop, can't justify hanging on to a saw because someday someone may need a handle bracket or choke linkage. Aaron already pointed out the environmental deals, not to mention fire departments can get excited about a shed full of magnesium coated with oil and sawdust. Plus the need for sheds, which get taxed, need upkeep, insurance, blah, blah, blah. And down time leads to the devils handiwork-its been a great year here for scrappers-little snow, mild temps, high prices so many small engine/saw shops around here are reducing hours for techs or laying more off, as theres nothing for them to do. Other than clean and scrap, which even at high prices isn't going to keep you open long. Saws that run fine but are old and need something simple, like a Stihl 042 (the most recent example I have), can be felled by a bad oil pick-up line, which is NLA. And stuffing tygon through the old one is a fix, but not for all customers, so it goes in the pile of unfixables, and the time spent doing that (diagnose, search for parts, think and act, test the fix) is hard to bill out for an honest guy or even most shops. Even if the customer OK's it (he did), he still has to pay for it, which hasn't happened for two weeks.

 

[zogger]

Tilly hs59A gaskets

How many gaskets are supposd to be inside these? This is off the 306A I got from Scott, finally started cleaning it and getting the piston unstuck (it is now) this weekend (of course my back went out then, could barely tote the powerhead back inside to the bench...I think stress from the friday night tornado funzies...happens a few times a year, sucks for a week, more or less hobbling around crippled up right now using a walking stick with much grimacing)

Anyway, I only have these gaskets inside, the main and pump diaphragms. The minor kit shows four do-dads. The choke lever on this saw was held on with a little twisted wire, leading me to think this carb was removed and played with before. I cleaned out the tank and threw on some highly stretched used fuel lines and it popped with a few yanks, but immediately flooded bad, real bad, so I took it apart today.

This is what I have

Borrowed for research and academic purposes only pic of the minor kit

Do I need all of those ^? I don't have either one of those on the right. If so, which goes where, what is the sequence? The main diaphragm is sorta stiff and looks warped, so at least a minor kit is in order methinks.

TIA

 

[zogger]

Most old stuff is a low reward deal for shops. If they hang on to a saw for parts, they need to move the parts, and as we find out all too often, sometimes that part breaks or really isn't much better than what its replacing. You, as a shop, can't justify hanging on to a saw because someday someone may need a handle bracket or choke linkage. Aaron already pointed out the environmental deals, not to mention fire departments can get excited about a shed full of magnesium coated with oil and sawdust. Plus the need for sheds, which get taxed, need upkeep, insurance, blah, blah, blah. And down time leads to the devils handiwork-its been a great year here for scrappers-little snow, mild temps, high prices so many small engine/saw shops around here are reducing hours for techs or laying more off, as theres nothing for them to do. Other than clean and scrap, which even at high prices isn't going to keep you open long. Saws that run fine but are old and need something simple, like a Stihl 042 (the most recent example I have), can be felled by a bad oil pick-up line, which is NLA. And stuffing tygon through the old one is a fix, but not for all customers, so it goes in the pile of unfixables, and the time spent doing that (diagnose, search for parts, think and act, test the fix) is hard to bill out for an honest guy or even most shops. Even if the customer OK's it (he did), he still has to pay for it, which hasn't happened for two weeks.

the only similar experience like this I have is working at a second amendment shop. We most def never chucked out old parts or busted guns. When and if we got caught up with customer repairs and warranty work, we'd play mix and match and fixit and put together stuff, that went right out on the rack for sale. Even if we had to make parts from scratch, that's what the tooling stuff was for. Tons of old parts were NLA, we'd just grab something close and go for it.

Just one big building, so there wasn't a junk pile outside or any separate sheds or anything, just the front counter area, then the back with warehouse type shelves, the machine room and test bunker, and our benches. Seemed to pass all necessary regs and rules OK.

Perhaps it helped this wasn't hourly, but by production, so there was an incentive to not "lay yourself off", and the owners weren't forced to pay hourly for sitting around.

Now, I fully understand if your arrangement is you *must* make blah blah an hour, etc, pay the help that, etc, just from my perspective, if I was caught up, slow season, etc, I'd rather be making five bucks an hour going through the junk pile and be making sellable runners, rather than zero an hour staring at a pile of parts, if you can see what I am saying here.

Anyway, stuff is what it is. I will continue to take advantage of being thrown away or get them cheap non runners, any of them I can get and save from the scrappers.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

How many gaskets are supposd to be inside these? This is off the 306A I got from Scott, finally started cleaning it and getting the piston unstuck (it is now) this weekend (of course my back went out then, could barely tote the powerhead back inside to the bench...I think stress from the friday night tornado funzies...happens a few times a year, sucks for a week, more or less hobbling around crippled up right now using a walking stick with much grimacing)

Anyway, I only have these gaskets inside, the main and pump diaphragms. The minor kit shows four do-dads. The choke lever on this saw was held on with a little twisted wire, leading me to think this carb was removed and played with before. I cleaned out the tank and threw on some highly stretched used fuel lines and it popped with a few yanks, but immediately flooded bad, real bad, so I took it apart today.

This is what I have

Borrowed for research and academic purposes only pic of the minor kit

Do I need all of those ^? I don't have either one of those on the right. If so, which goes where, what is the sequence? The main diaphragm is sorta stiff and looks warped, so at least a minor kit is in order methinks.

TIA

Yeah, you need all four. The diaphragm side has the gasket go on the carb first, then the diaphragm. On the other side the part with the flapper valves goes next to the carb body then the other piece.

 

[3000 FPS]

How many gaskets are supposd to be inside these? This is off the 306A I got from Scott, finally started cleaning it and getting the piston unstuck (it is now) this weekend (of course my back went out then, could barely tote the powerhead back inside to the bench...I think stress from the friday night tornado funzies...happens a few times a year, sucks for a week, more or less hobbling around crippled up right now using a walking stick with much grimacing)

Anyway, I only have these gaskets inside, the main and pump diaphragms. The minor kit shows four do-dads. The choke lever on this saw was held on with a little twisted wire, leading me to think this carb was removed and played with before. I cleaned out the tank and threw on some highly stretched used fuel lines and it popped with a few yanks, but immediately flooded bad, real bad, so I took it apart today.

This is what I have

Borrowed for research and academic purposes only pic of the minor kit

Do I need all of those ^? I don't have either one of those on the right. If so, which goes where, what is the sequence? The main diaphragm is sorta stiff and looks warped, so at least a minor kit is in order methinks.

TIA

Yes you need the 2 gaskets to go with the 2 diaphragms. The picture with the gaskets and diaphragms are correct. The top two go together and the bottom two go together.

 

[Eccentric]

How many gaskets are supposd to be inside these? This is off the 306A I got from Scott, finally started cleaning it and getting the piston unstuck (it is now) this weekend (of course my back went out then, could barely tote the powerhead back inside to the bench...I think stress from the friday night tornado funzies...happens a few times a year, sucks for a week, more or less hobbling around crippled up right now using a walking stick with much grimacing)

Anyway, I only have these gaskets inside, the main and pump diaphragms. The minor kit shows four do-dads. The choke lever on this saw was held on with a little twisted wire, leading me to think this carb was removed and played with before. I cleaned out the tank and threw on some highly stretched used fuel lines and it popped with a few yanks, but immediately flooded bad, real bad, so I took it apart today.

This is what I have

Borrowed for research and academic purposes only pic of the minor kit

Do I need all of those ^? I don't have either one of those on the right. If so, which goes where, what is the sequence? The main diaphragm is sorta stiff and looks warped, so at least a minor kit is in order methinks.

TIA

Yeah, you need all four. The diaphragm side has the gasket go on the carb first, then the diaphragm. On the other side the part with the flapper valves goes next to the carb body then the other piece.

Yep. The diaphragms and gaskets stuck together when you took it apart Zogger. That's why you only have two 'do-dads' instead of four. They often stick together like that. You actually have all four pieces (as pictured in your 'minor kit' pic), and you can peel the old 'do-dads' from your carb apart if you'd like.

As Al said, you want to put the metering gasket (top right of your 'minor kit' pic) on the body first, followed by the diaphragm (top left in pic). Make sure you have them the right way 'round and all the holes and pins line up. Put the cover on and torque down the screws. Flip the body over, then put on the pump diaphragm (lower left in pic), followed by the gasket (lower right). Again, make sure everything is orientated right before buttoning down the cover.

If the carb metering lever has a fork on the diapragm end, make sure it fits into the groove on the 'tit' on the diaphragm's metal center plate before putting the diaphragm in place. Some work this way, while others just have the metering diaphragm 'tit' resting on the lever. The other end of the lever should have a fork in it that fits into the groove on the needle.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

the only similar experience like this I have is working at a second amendment shop. We most def never chucked out old parts or busted guns. When and if we got caught up with customer repairs and warranty work, we'd play mix and match and fixit and put together stuff, that went right out on the rack for sale. Even if we had to make parts from scratch, that's what the tooling stuff was for. Tons of old parts were NLA, we'd just grab something close and go for it.

Just one big building, so there wasn't a junk pile outside or any separate sheds or anything, just the front counter area, then the back with warehouse type shelves, the machine room and test bunker, and our benches. Seemed to pass all necessary regs and rules OK.

Perhaps it helped this wasn't hourly, but by production, so there was an incentive to not "lay yourself off", and the owners weren't forced to pay hourly for sitting around.

Now, I fully understand if your arrangement is you *must* make blah blah an hour, etc, pay the help that, etc, just from my perspective, if I was caught up, slow season, etc, I'd rather be making five bucks an hour going through the junk pile and be making sellable runners, rather than zero an hour staring at a pile of parts, if you can see what I am saying here.

Anyway, stuff is what it is. I will continue to take advantage of being thrown away or get them cheap non runners, any of them I can get and save from the scrappers.

I guess I made a mistake...I thought our country was in a recession or maybe a depression for some. You don't throw things away when you're in a depression! You re-use them until you can't re-use them any more. Our government spends a lot of time worrying about the sheen on the parking lots but practically no time worrying about people who go to bed hungry or are homeless through no fault of their own. Of course I would save the old saws if I was rich it's just what I do. I also get my money's worth with my cars and truck. I would much rather have an old Poulan saw than a brand new Chinese one!

 

[Eccentric]

Also be aware that the HS59 carb has a governor in it. This has a little disc (or ball) valve that vibrates at the right engine RPM (supposedly). That makes it open up and dump more fuel into the mix. Sometimes these can be hard to tune right. DON'T tune the H side to where it's at less than 1 turn from seated. Many guys disable the governor to allow more 'normal' tuning. The governor is the threaded plug on the right side of the carb (as it sits on the saw). You can remove the plug, then put a little disc of metal (some guys use a piece punched out of a beer can, others use a little welch plug left over from some carb kit) and then thread the plug back down. Put some sealer on the plug threads (such as Indian Head). This makes the governor valve stay closed. Many Homelite, Poulan and some McCulloch saws had this governor setup.

 

[zogger]

Well, dang, thanks guys!

I'll look at those diaphragms again tomorrow, see if the additional gaskets are smashed to em and I just didn't see that. Stuck together, what a concept..and excuse for new quad focals... Could be, still wonky today from my back and the rather *interesting* spasms I get from it sometimes. It sorta gets your attention and distracts you from what you are trying to do...

And I have noted the double fork with the metering lever, yes it has that, I'll be sure to make sure it gets fitted to the replacement correctly on install. As to the governor, I took it out and cleaned it...didn't know what it was..but it's clean and the little spring and ball part are working correctly, but I'll block it off anyway.

This is the first one of these tillys I have had apart. The 245A was in such good shape, it wasn't broke, so I didn't fix it!

Whenever I get it done and it runs I'll post some pics of it. Needs paint bad. It was just real dirty and piston and rings stuck and corroded a little. I was patient and soaked them in pb blaster and wd 40 until they began to move a little, then blew it clean out through the muffler and plug hole, then switched to soaking in mix fuel and moving it gently back and forth until it slid free. Still not sure on the rings, but at least they look clean now and might be unstuck enough to run. The cylinder itself looks fine.

It has chips and chunks gone and some cracks in the casing here and there, this one will need some JB weld action and paint I think. I already read here on another thread when I was researching it how to use old homie xl rings and a little filing if you need them. Hopefully not once it has run a bit and loosened back up. It *did* pop pretty good. The ignition is a hoot, someone soldered like a small briggs lawnmower coil wire onto the existing and bad coil wire. Both wires still hanging there, but the one with the open loop for sticking on the plug is the one that works. I might try to neaten that up a little, too. *snort*.

edit: as long as I am ratchet jawing..man, is this the _easiest_ thing to do a fuel line replacement for, or what? What a neat design. Can get to the tank and de slime it good and see when it really is deslimed good enough, too. Can't tell exactly what size line it takes, but man, what a set up! Is that 3/16 or one quarter I.D. line? The old stuff was rather theoretical, chunky styled.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

Finished another 2800

Here is another 2800 I Just finished up putting together. It had a scored p&c when I got it. It got a new p&c, nos poulan bar (banana at that), new chain, nos brake kit, bucking spike, carb rebuild, new hoses, new filter, new mounts, and a muffler mod. She runs like a charm now.

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