Nik's Poulan Thread

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Just act like you were buying a Homelite Super XL. They're very similar. Mainly I'd look at the stuff that normally wears out on an old saw, fuel lines, clutch, bar and chain, etc.

Shhhhhh. Here in the Poulan thread, we're not supposed to mention the XL-12/SXL series saws in reference to the 360-451 family Poulans. You wanna get us in trouble again?????:cool2:
 
added to my poulan collection tother day. bought a 361 that's reported to be all working and nothing missing. very anxious to put my hands on this. other than the basics as listed on csc i'm wondering about what to look for on this saw?

I have one of those Poulan 361's Jerry. But can't tell ya whole lot about them.:dizzy: I think I have only run mine once. Its been collecting dust since. Not a bad old saw, 59cc like the newer 306. Mine is a manual oiler. I have enough newer saws to use. I guess I got one, just to have one. LOL

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:cheers:
Gregg,
 
I have one of those Poulan 361's Jerry. But can't tell ya whole lot about them.:dizzy: I think I have only run mine once. Its been collecting dust since. Not a bad old saw, 59cc like the newer 306. Mine is a manual oiler. I have enough newer saws to use. I guess I got one, just to have one. LOL

100_0405.jpg


100_0410.jpg


:cheers:
Gregg,

I know where there's one a few miles from me that I could probably get for cheap but haven't made the effort to get it. I wouldn't use it and don't have much room for shelf saws....
 
For the record there were no auto oiler 361 saws. I believe the saw that Mike was referenceing was the Dayton branded 361 from Hell that Nik gave me.

When going over that saw trying to get it right Chris/Cbfarmall and I decided to transplant the auto oiler set up from a 4ci Dayton parts saw on to it. It worked out very well I might add.
 
Air Leak question for you 3400 series experts

I rebuilt the carb on my new to me 3400. The saw fired up at the first pull.
I have changed the fuel and vent lines and replaced the fuel filter. I did not replace the carb to adaptor gasket which seems a bit hard.

The saw will idle fairly well until it is turned on its side, clutch cover down and then it stalls shortly afterwards. Put the saw upright and it will fire right up. I tried adjusting the idle speed a bit richer and it's at about 1-1/8 turn out. Runs well at full throttle and 4 strokes a bit. I haven't put it to a piece of wood yet.

Does that sound like a crank seal issue? I haven't pressure/vacuum tested it yet to look for leaks.

Prior to overhauling the carb it idled and ran well for a dozen cuts and then refused to start. That's why I rebuilt the carb.

I hoping it's not the crank seals as they appear to be difficult to find.
 
Nope, they are not hard to find. I got them from my local bearing place. I think Mark uses US generic seal. SKF #6120 I think.

Al
 
I rebuilt the carb on my new to me 3400. The saw fired up at the first pull.
I have changed the fuel and vent lines and replaced the fuel filter. I did not replace the carb to adaptor gasket which seems a bit hard.

The saw will idle fairly well until it is turned on its side, clutch cover down and then it stalls shortly afterwards. Put the saw upright and it will fire right up. I tried adjusting the idle speed a bit richer and it's at about 1-1/8 turn out. Runs well at full throttle and 4 strokes a bit. I haven't put it to a piece of wood yet.

Does that sound like a crank seal issue? I haven't pressure/vacuum tested it yet to look for leaks.

Prior to overhauling the carb it idled and ran well for a dozen cuts and then refused to start. That's why I rebuilt the carb.

I hoping it's not the crank seals as they appear to be difficult to find.

I'm not one of the experts but it sounds like a crank seal leaking.
 
I rebuilt the carb on my new to me 3400. The saw fired up at the first pull.
I have changed the fuel and vent lines and replaced the fuel filter. I did not replace the carb to adaptor gasket which seems a bit hard.

The saw will idle fairly well until it is turned on its side, clutch cover down and then it stalls shortly afterwards. Put the saw upright and it will fire right up. I tried adjusting the idle speed a bit richer and it's at about 1-1/8 turn out. Runs well at full throttle and 4 strokes a bit. I haven't put it to a piece of wood yet.

Does that sound like a crank seal issue? I haven't pressure/vacuum tested it yet to look for leaks.

Prior to overhauling the carb it idled and ran well for a dozen cuts and then refused to start. That's why I rebuilt the carb.

I hoping it's not the crank seals as they appear to be difficult to find.

It could well be a crankseal issue but I'd replace the carb gasket first to find out. I've found that most seal issues are on the clutch side. If after replacing the gasket the problem still exists, do a vacuum test to see which seal is leaking. Sometimes a pressure test won't show a leaking seal. A good trick offerred by MoOdifiedMark is to put a light coat of grease around the seal. If the vacuum test shows the grease being sucked in you have a leak.Finally you can get seals from your local bearing distributor or occassionally they come up on Ebay.
 
I rebuilt the carb on my new to me 3400. The saw fired up at the first pull.
I have changed the fuel and vent lines and replaced the fuel filter. I did not replace the carb to adaptor gasket which seems a bit hard.

The saw will idle fairly well until it is turned on its side, clutch cover down and then it stalls shortly afterwards. Put the saw upright and it will fire right up. I tried adjusting the idle speed a bit richer and it's at about 1-1/8 turn out. Runs well at full throttle and 4 strokes a bit. I haven't put it to a piece of wood yet.

Does that sound like a crank seal issue? I haven't pressure/vacuum tested it yet to look for leaks.

Prior to overhauling the carb it idled and ran well for a dozen cuts and then refused to start. That's why I rebuilt the carb.

I hoping it's not the crank seals as they appear to be difficult to find.

My 3400 repair/upgrade to 3800 went this way... scored cylinder so no running possible.
The crank would move a bit and flywheel magnet would stick/hit the mag as it passed if set to a small clearance. needle bearings bad- OK I understand that part.
Seals...made block off plates for exhaust and intake ports. It would hold a pressurization for an hour no problem,,,but press on the crank and the air would leak instantly. So new seals are needed too.
FWIW the basic CR6120 with HMS1 type seal is a single lip seal only..... where the original had an auxillary seal to exclude dirt. This is where I stalled in the repair. I haven't found a better option yet and will probably go the 6120 option or this 3800 will never get put back together. I need to move on to my XL-12

My .02 check your bearings which will cause a sealing problem....I was slow to see the problem with mine.:angry:
 
For the record there were no auto oiler 361 saws. I believe the saw that Mike was referenceing was the Dayton branded 361 from Hell that Nik gave me.

When going over that saw trying to get it right Chris/Cbfarmall and I decided to transplant the auto oiler set up from a 4ci Dayton parts saw on to it. It worked out very well I might add.





Yes Mark, that is the ONE!!!

I was fairly certain but I've come to the conclusion that it is never a good idea to say never when it comes to these Poulan saws.
Just when you think you have it figured out, someone will come up with something that you've never seen before.

Anyone want to race 4000s???
I've got a super sleeper here!
It didn't do as well in the 4 cube build as I wished but that is just a credit to how many great running saws were there.
I was 9th out of 10 with a work chain, but I'm willing to bet that youall will be surprised that it wasn't in the top 5 when you run it.


Mike
 
Photo0458.jpg


This one here is a runner with just a MM. It doesn't really start to pull away from other saws until the bars get longer and the wood gets thicker, this saw here has quite a bit more torque than a 038 super but can't compete with the RPM's and a 20 inch bar and chain in 20" or below wood, but put on a 28 inch bar and step up the wood and it is a different story.
 
Yes Mark, that is the ONE!!!

I was fairly certain but I've come to the conclusion that it is never a good idea to say never when it comes to these Poulan saws.
Just when you think you have it figured out, someone will come up with something that you've never seen before.

Anyone want to race 4000s???
I've got a super sleeper here!
It didn't do as well in the 4 cube build as I wished but that is just a credit to how many great running saws were there.
I was 9th out of 10 with a work chain, but I'm willing to bet that youall will be surprised that it wasn't in the top 5 when you run it.


Mike

I for one, am really looking forward to running your 4000 sometime Mike!!! I don't think, there is anybody here that likes to run a 4000 more than I do.:msp_wink: I have 4 of them. And are my favorite all around use saw. I'm not into saw racing, but I wonder also, like HomeliteJim, how it would compare to some of the others, with a longer bar & bigger wood. Its been my experience, that the older Poulans are more of a torque saw, than a RPM screamer. Even though the the 4000 isn't a reed valve torque monster like the 4200/5200 models.

When your feeling back up to snuff Mike, you will have to have Sheila run the video camera, and give us some proof, of just what they are capable of in different wood and what not.:rock:

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Yes Mark, that is the ONE!!!

I was fairly certain but I've come to the conclusion that it is never a good idea to say never when it comes to these Poulan saws.
Just when you think you have it figured out, someone will come up with something that you've never seen before.

Anyone want to race 4000s???
I've got a super sleeper here!
It didn't do as well in the 4 cube build as I wished but that is just a credit to how many great running saws were there.
I was 9th out of 10 with a work chain, but I'm willing to bet that youall will be surprised that it wasn't in the top 5 when you run it.


Mike

It is an awesome saw and a lot of fun to run. IIRC, Jeremy put one of the race chains on it and it dropped its time considerably.
 

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