Nik's Poulan Thread

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Poulan NLA stuff to check for....

I'm going to pick up 2 new 5200 air filters from a guy clearing out some old Poulan stock. He' wants $10 each.
If he has more than 2 does anyone want me to pick one up?
I think I can ship to the US for atound $9
Not sure what he has but. if there is anything else you want me to ask him for, let me now ASAP.
Part numbers required


Tim

Hiya Tim,

I could use a few 23596 and 23602 AV mounts for the S25-CVA saws. My guess is that others here could too.

While you're at it.........could you see if he has any 23484 pistons and 23485 rings (S25), and if so............can you get a price from him?

Heck, might as well check for and price the 11245, 12264, and 12072 S25 cylinders in case somebody needs 'em.

I'd like to get a 22124 oiler diaphragm or two (also XXV series) to put aside.

You'd find homes for as many 69142 oiler check valve kits (Micro series) as you could pick up. I'd be down for one or two, and others would probably want many more....

I'd like to get a couple 23046 air filters (200/300 series saws), and I'll bet others here would too.


Might as well make a list of the pistons, cylinders, and rings that he has available. If you want me to send you the Poulan Cylinder Applications Chart to use for reference, PM me your email address...

There's other stuff...........but this'll do......:D
 
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I'm going to pick up 2 new 5200 air filters from a guy clearing out some old Poulan stock. He' wants $10 each.
If he has more than 2 does anyone want me to pick one up?
I think I can ship to the US for atound $9
Not sure what he has but. if there is anything else you want me to ask him for, let me now ASAP.
Part numbers required


Tim

are the the 5200's the same as the 5400's?, if so im in if you get extra.
 
Fossil,
I'll take the NOS, still in its box, never had gas in it, 8500 sittin on the back room shelf. The dust on the box is of no great concern to me. I can deal with it. :hmm3grin2orange:

P.S. Sorry, I don't know its part # off hand.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
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I picked up a 3400 in non running condition, that only needs some minor things to get it going. There is no fuel line or fuel pick up body, two long screws on the starter cover and probably a carb kit. So, my question is since we don't have any poulan dealers nearby, are the parts for this saw that are available from sears parts direct worth getting? I was only thinking of getting the screws and the fuel line parts. I checked out the thread that ModifiedMark did on the poulan fuel line replacement, and was just curious if the fuel line that he used was any higher quality or if the stuff from sears would be adequate. Any other tips/advice would be helpful with this, since its going to be my first time tearing into a chainsaw, and I'm looking forward to getting this thing up and running.

Sears parts are fine esp. the recoil screws. Insofar as the fuel line and filter any mower/saw shop can fix you up. You will also need a vent line(the larger hole) on the fuel tank. Its larger because it takes a duckbill valve and fitting attached to the line. Other than that the line is the same diameter as the fuel line.
Bob
 
checked ring gap on my craftsman 3.7 (red Poulan rebadge). it was greater than 0.034 (my largest feeler gauge). didn't need to know exactly cause i already know the gap is too big. saw runs but since i already have the jug pulled i'm gonna replace the rings. where can i get new rings for this?

Don't know if rings are still available or not, Jerry. May be thin or thick depending on the model saw. You have to take into account the ring pin diameter when calculating ring gap, however. Not much help , I know.
Bob
 
I'd like to jump into this fray also!! :)

I'm going to pick up 2 new 5200 air filters from a guy clearing out some old Poulan stock. He' wants $10 each.
If he has more than 2 does anyone want me to pick one up?
I think I can ship to the US for atound $9
Not sure what he has but. if there is anything else you want me to ask him for, let me now ASAP.
Part numbers required


Tim

I would like to have one if possible.
 
Don't know if rings are still available or not, Jerry. May be thin or thick depending on the model saw. You have to take into account the ring pin diameter when calculating ring gap, however. Not much help , I know.
Bob

I read a thread on AS that said the Red Craftsman saws were 3700s and the Gray ones were 3800s. Same Craftsman ID number. The 3700, so I was told takes the thin rings and the 3800 takes the thick rings. I don't know what the yellow ones take.
 
Practiice run on 5200 custom fuel line fitting installation - 1st set of pictures

First off a BIG thanks to Karl and Mark for making this custom fitting available!!

This incredible picture that Mark took shows just how awesome the manufacture of this fitting is!!

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My dog, Sam the Siberian Husky, thinks this fitting is cooler than he is in the middle of a hot Aridzona day.....and he's found a way to stay pretty cool!!

b7ceab1b.jpg


Earlier today I was doing a job on a food manufacturing production line where I had to tap a number of 10/32 into 3/16" stainless steel. That kinda got me in the tapping mood and motivated to start on the three saws I wanted to get threads cut into for the custom fuel line fitting.

I was one of the recent three Dayton 5200 purchasers and felt that saw would be a great first recipient for the awesome machined fuel line custom fitting. However I wanted to do a practice run on the other 5200 saw I've been tinkering with to get a feel for the installation procedure. I know it's still got some "residual" on it.........the dang digital macro close-ups sure accentuate that reality!!

I found a drill bit that just fit inside the I.D. of the other tapped gas tank breather hole and cleaned out the original fuel line hole to that size........didn't take much material out but I figured it would help with getting the tap started. Dug around and found a 5/16 x 24 tap which happens to be the thread size for the already threaded breather hole and chased the threads in that hole first. I've never tapped magnesium before so this was my "learning curve" saw before I do it on my Dayton. I was a bit stressed with trying to keep the tap straight as I didn't have access to a good tapping handle and was using my ViseGrip "ToolBox" tool for the job. I went slow and easy and am pretty happy with results.

d67548fe.jpg


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68bf9472.jpg


This fitting will be coming out of this saw tank and before installing into the Dayton, after I get it tapped, there will be teflon sealing tape wrapped around the threads......or maybe MotoSeal would be better!????
 
Practiice run on 5200 custom fuel line fitting installation - 2nd set of pictures

I got all excited after I got the hole tapped and found out that the thin wall 1/4" drive 5/16" socket would clear the ledge behind the tapped hole. I had thought I was going to have to cut a radius out of the ledge to get clearance for the socket. Got to thinking about it and remembered that Mark had given me this direction when we were communicating about the fittings;
The 4400 may need the ledge behind the fitting ground back a little for clearance. I use a flat end burr in a dremel and it is just a bit that needs removed. This only applies to the 4400, 4900, 5400 and later with the longer rear tank and handle. I believe I posted a picture of it before and can do it again if you need me too.

Mark

I had been going off that idea that the 5200 would be the same as the 4400........but Mark had clarified it previously and I just didn't put it together. Needless to say i was thrilled when I didn't have to drag out the Dremel and put the new Dremel flat end burr into action. I will be doing my Dayton AND a 4400 tonight so will get to whittle on that one!!

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One down and two to go!! :rock: :msp_thumbsup:
 
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4000 oil line

The auto oiler on my 4000 isn't working so I decided to have a look and the line is broken at the filter. I'm assuming this is the problem. What can I replace the line with? Is Tygon suitable? If not then I'll need to track down the correct material. What else shall I look for while I'm in the oiler?
 
I read a thread on AS that said the Red Craftsman saws were 3700s and the Gray ones were 3800s. Same Craftsman ID number. The 3700, so I was told takes the thin rings and the 3800 takes the thick rings. I don't know what the yellow ones take.

There were some red 3.7 badged 3800's (chromed piston, bare bore, thick rings). They must have been made sortly before the "red to grey" changeover. The bulk of the 3.7's seem to be 3700's (and all grey 3.7's are 3800's). Red 3700's (chromed bore, bare piston, thin rings), red 3800's, and grey 3800's (which are all badged as "3.7" saws) have different Sears model numbers (the numbers that start with "358."). Earlier here, somebody posted pics of their red 3.7 badged 3800 (including a pic of the bare piston and thick rings). They posted the Sears 358......... model number.
 
Fossil,
I'll take the NOS, still in its box, never had gas in it, 8500 sittin on the back room shelf. The dust on the box is of no great concern to me. I can deal with it. :hmm3grin2orange:

P.S. Sorry, I don't know its part # off hand.

:cheers:
Gregg,

Finally somebody with some brains posts up in response to Fossil's "clearing out a Poulan stock" post. While we were thinking "small potatoes" (parts)...........Gregg was thinking NOS SAWS!!!

Since Gregg has claimed the NOS Poulan 8500's (dammit)..............I'd like to "officially" lay claim to "right of first refusal" (heck........he may have a shelf full of 'em and I can't afford THAT many!) for any and all OTHER NOS chainsaws (of ANY make....LOL) that this fine fellow may have squirreled away. There.............that's more like it!:D
 
The auto oiler on my 4000 isn't working so I decided to have a look and the line is broken at the filter. I'm assuming this is the problem. What can I replace the line with? Is Tygon suitable? If not then I'll need to track down the correct material. What else shall I look for while I'm in the oiler?

I have used Tygon type fuel line on ocassion in the oiler on those. That being said. You want to use some thin-walled Tygon tubing. The Tygon tubbing is a little stiffer than the rubber they used in the originals. Even with the brass weighted pickup on it, its not quite as limber.

The thin Tygon tubbing is a little more flexibale. It has work well for me. The only other thing in that oiler that could be a problem is the diaphram. They sometimes get a little weak, stretched, or can get a hole in them. Not sure if they are still available or not.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
There were some red 3.7 badged 3800's (chromed piston, bare bore, thick rings). They must have been made sortly before the "red to grey" changeover. The bulk of the 3.7's seem to be 3700's (and all grey 3.7's are 3800's). Red 3700's (chromed bore, bare piston, thin rings), red 3800's, and grey 3800's (which are all badged as "3.7" saws) have different Sears model numbers (the numbers that start with "358."). Earlier here, somebody posted pics of their red 3.7 badged 3800 (including a pic of the bare piston and thick rings). They posted the Sears 358......... model number.

My red Craftsman 3.7 and my gray one both had the same model number. I sold the gray one and kept the red thinking the red one had the chrome bore. That's probably what I get for thinking rather than actually checking it!
 
I have used Tygon type fuel line on ocassion in the oiler on those. That being said. You want to use some thin-walled Tygon tubing. The Tygon tubbing is a little stiffer than the rubber they used in the originals. Even with the brass weighted pickup on it, its not quite as limber.

The thin Tygon tubbing is a little more flexibale. It has work well for me. The only other thing in that oiler that could be a problem is the diaphram. They sometimes get a little weak, stretched, or can get a hole in them. Not sure if they are still available or not.

:cheers:
Gregg,

Thanks, I bought an oil line on eBay and also checked the diaphram. It didn't have any holes but may be weak/stretched. I'll replace the line and see how it goes. I've got a donor saw that I guess I could pull the diaphram from. Strangely enough the line was broken at the same place as the other one. I guess common problem.
 
I'm going to pick up 2 new 5200 air filters from a guy clearing out some old Poulan stock. He' wants $10 each.
If he has more than 2 does anyone want me to pick one up?
I think I can ship to the US for atound $9
Not sure what he has but. if there is anything else you want me to ask him for, let me now ASAP.
Part numbers required
Tim

Tim ,
I could really use a 245A piston (part #1936) & some rings would be good (#1724).

Al.
 
Come to think of it. I am working on a PP 395 and need the crank seals. They are the same as in the 3400 and 3700. Part number 530019097. If anyone knows where I can find these I would appreciate it. I have looked and every place is out of stock. Maybe some might eventually show on ebay but any help or an alternative seal I could use would be great.
 
My red Craftsman 3.7 and my gray one both had the same model number. I sold the gray one and kept the red thinking the red one had the chrome bore. That's probably what I get for thinking rather than actually checking it!

I cannot lie. I bought your gray one and I did check it, and found it is a 3800. I like the saw and it is in great shape except the compression is alittle low. I already have a new set of rings for it but have not got around to putting them in yet but I will and then I will lose the base gasket while at it. So thanks once again for a great saw at a good price. :rock:
 

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