RED-85-Z51
Addicted to ArboristSite
How do you know what he was told?
I have resources.
How do you know what he was told?
I don't have a clue, but soon someone will show up and blame Electrolux and Lowe's.
Joat
Looks like a classic 'old' gas seizure to me. That's why everything is 'caramelized' on the piston, crank, bearings- etc.
I'm not sure I understand this...how could old gas cause a seizure? I know it's a dumb thing to use, but I thought it would simply prevent the engine from running due to poor ignition/vaporization problems.
But the oil wouldn't have broken down, so it would still be lubricating everything, right?
Help out a rook here.
Woodie said:I'm not sure I understand this...how could old gas cause a seizure? I know it's a dumb thing to use, but I thought it would simply prevent the engine from running due to poor ignition/vaporization problems.
Not really, if there is any different story, no one has told me...
Yes the fault is fuel related, obviously. I quizzed him up and down, and
he stuck to his guns. I suspected, and smelled, maybe the milkjug effect,
or even sugar in the tank, but he held his own.
He also brought in his old 031, I put in new points and it runs like new.
He wants to know why his 031 is ok, amd his new ms310 is dead.
What can one say?
Tell him his new one runs tighter tolerances,is more highly tuned and is less forgiving of owner abuse
Old gas lacks the ability to burn properly. It leaves a varnish like coating on everything, as the varnish wont combust. It builds up, and as the heat rises it burns onto the piston, cylinder, crank etc. The buildup gets in on, and behind the rings. The layers buildup, and as more heat is added the layers begin to "melt". They turn into a liquid with the consistensy of cold molasses.
Now inside the carb, varnish is building up, and causing the saw to lean out. More air, less fuel/oil...makes the saw seem to run fine, tons of power. This adds even more heat to the now gummy engine, it turns more rpms. The varnish starts to tighten up the clearances between the reciprocating assembly, and the rotating assembly...more friction..more heat. IT starts to wind down. The rings are now shot, scrubbed to death and over heated...the overheated piston is now black with varnish buildup...and the ports have a thick crust on and around them that has chewed into the piston and skirt on the exhaust side.
If the heat doesnt make it lock up...it will simply shut off from lack of compression.
The stihl rep used that one, would you believe that line?
I think you should evaluate what type of a customer he is. It is obviously his fault, (or whoever put that in the fuel tank). Stihl does have what is called a "good-will" policy. If it was a nice little old man that made a mistake, I would probably warranty it. If the customer is a miserable pr**ck I would tell him it's not worth repairing, buy a new one. I never gamble on rod or crank bearings in a case like this. It will be more cost-effective to replace it. Cheers.After all of those posts, you finally got 1 right!!!!!
I think you should evaluate what type of a customer he is. It is obviously his fault, (or whoever put that in the fuel tank). Stihl does have what is called a "good-will" policy. If it was a nice little old man that made a mistake, I would probably warranty it. If the customer is a miserable pr**ck I would tell him it's not worth repairing, buy a new one. I never gamble on rod or crank bearings in a case like this. It will be more cost-effective to replace it. Cheers.
Most interesting!
Simon, do you judge all Stihl warranty claims? Is there a handbook containing guidelines for this?
In your words, I can be a nice little old man. However, because of the treatment I receive at my local Stihl dealer, I might be considered a miserable pr**ck.
Just wondering where I might stand.
Old man and miserable pr**ck,
Joat
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