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Pioneer FarmSaw - starter not engaging

When I pull the pull rope it just makes a clicking sound. The black round piece with the dogs that grabs the crank just skims the top of the teeth! Can anyone provide some guidance? Thanks appreciate it!
 
If you search this thread for ''farmsaw '' there are some really good pics of a starter repair.
Some of the big dogs on here can help you with your problem, i have one too and they fixed me up.

Those farmsaws have a crappy starter, common problem.

:cheers:
 
When I pull the pull rope it just makes a clicking sound. The black round piece with the dogs that grabs the crank just skims the top of the teeth! Can anyone provide some guidance? Thanks appreciate it!

Most of the time I think it's those fragile springs they put on the dogs, well, maybe not so fragile, those saws are pretty old by now. Anyway, check the springs and maybe look for some new ones. I think hardware stores sell springs similar to these but you'd have to modify them. Some internet sites sell these springs but they're used and pretty old also. I don't know if there's any NOS parts still around for these or not. My 1200 has the same problem, I'm missing a dog and 2 springs on mine.
 
Most of the time I think it's those fragile springs they put on the dogs, well, maybe not so fragile, those saws are pretty old by now. Anyway, check the springs and maybe look for some new ones. I think hardware stores sell springs similar to these but you'd have to modify them. Some internet sites sell these springs but they're used and pretty old also. I don't know if there's any NOS parts still around for these or not. My 1200 has the same problem, I'm missing a dog and 2 springs on mine.

Starter mechanism is totally different on a Farm Saw.
The picts of the Farm Saw starter cover and mechanism is on page 47, post #695 of the Pioneer Chainsaw Thread.
Pioneerguy600
 
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Starter mechanism is totally different on a Farm Saw.
The picts of the Farm Saw starter cover and mechanism is on page 47, post #695 of the Pioneer Chainsaw Thread.
Pioneerguy600

Man, you're sure right about that one...Mine's similar to the old Homelite Super XL. Parts probably wouldn't fit, or would they? They look a lot alike. I have a couple of old XL saws. If they do fit, would it be better to take the parts off the XL and put on the pioneer or just leave them alone..both saws are in similar condition.
 
Removing Clutch on Farmsaw

Anyone know any tricks to remove a Farmsaw clutch? The nut seems very tight and doesn't want to turn even with a 1/2 inch breaker bar. Threads are left handed from what I can tell. Thanks for help
 
Anyone know any tricks to remove a Farmsaw clutch? The nut seems very tight and doesn't want to turn even with a 1/2 inch breaker bar. Threads are left handed from what I can tell. Thanks for help

Remove the sparkplug and rotate the piston in the direction the nut comes off up to within an inch of the top dead center,insert a piece of starter cord and push in 6-8" of it then you can put the breaker bar and socket on the nut and turn it until the cord compresses up against the cylinderhead, the crankshaft won`t turn any further so the nut should then turn off.
Pioneerguy600
 
I use an air impact wrench for anything stubborn..never needed it on a chainsaw though.

That works very well if you are not afraid to hold the flywheel with your free hand and you are sure of the handing of the thread. I`ve had a few saws brought to me with stripped threads due to turning the nut the wrong way with a 1/2" drive impact.
Pioneerguy600
 
Thought I'd take a stroll over here from the Homelite-side. I've never owned a Pioneer (unless you count my PP655BP and 2 Farmsaws I couldn't get rid of fast enough). This 650 caught my eye and, not knowing the pitfalls of this particular model, I picked it up. Right off, I know it needs the cylinder shroud, footstep, and a spike--does anyone know of a source for these parts? Of course, I don't have a bar but that's nothing. I've taken the muffler off and the piston looks great. Compression is down a bit (135psi) but new rings and/or run-time ought to take care of that. Strangely enough, the half-wrap handle mounts looked familiar to me so I did some digging in my parts and found that I have a good full wrap handle for this saw.

I got the saw to run fairly steady off of dripping fuel in the intake. Can't be too bad.

So, where I do I start for parts?--the cylinder shroud, spike, foot step, and new parts like rings, gaskets, seals.

Thanks, Chris B.

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Remove the sparkplug and rotate the piston in the direction the nut comes off up to within an inch of the top dead center,insert a piece of starter cord and push in 6-8" of it then you can put the breaker bar and socket on the nut and turn it until the cord compresses up against the cylinderhead, the crankshaft won`t turn any further so the nut should then turn off.
Pioneerguy600

That is what I was doing. But not 100% sure it is a left hand thread . It should be or it would loosen in use. Can anyone confirm left hand?
 
That is what I was doing. But not 100% sure it is a left hand thread . It should be or it would loosen in use. Can anyone confirm left hand?

The threads are right hand. There should be a nut on the end of the crank. The clutch should (not all) have a spot to get a wrench on. Then use a socket to remove the nut. Once the nut is removed the clutch will slide off. The crank is splined for the clutch.
 
The threads are right hand. There should be a nut on the end of the crank. The clutch should (not all) have a spot to get a wrench on. Then use a socket to remove the nut. Once the nut is removed the clutch will slide off. The crank is splined for the clutch.

There is a nut on the end of the crank and I was using rope in the cylinder to hold the crank from turning, if it is right hand that would explain why it won't turn. I will try to turn it counterclockwise tomorrow.
 
Thought I'd take a stroll over here from the Homelite-side. I've never owned a Pioneer (unless you count my PP655BP and 2 Farmsaws I couldn't get rid of fast enough). This 650 caught my eye and, not knowing the pitfalls of this particular model, I picked it up. Right off, I know it needs the cylinder shroud, footstep, and a spike--does anyone know of a source for these parts? Of course, I don't have a bar but that's nothing. I've taken the muffler off and the piston looks great. Compression is down a bit (135psi) but new rings and/or run-time ought to take care of that. Strangely enough, the half-wrap handle mounts looked familiar to me so I did some digging in my parts and found that I have a good full wrap handle for this saw.

I got the saw to run fairly steady off of dripping fuel in the intake. Can't be too bad.

So, where I do I start for parts?--the cylinder shroud, spike, foot step, and new parts like rings, gaskets, seals.

Thanks, Chris B.


Well Chris you have a solid looking 650 there. If you have 135 lbs comp then that is not all that bad on a 650, they were not high comp engines, mostly due to the shape of the piston. Rings are scarce for these saws, they can be sourced from Hastings. OEM seals would also be scarce but generic ones can be found through bearing and seal distributors like Motion Industries. Bryce may have some parts at his store for the 650, he usually has some listed but ask if you don`t see them. Ebay is another place parts come up frequently so keep an eye out there also. Good project if you have patience.
Pioneerguy600
 
I notice the bore is 2.250 and the rings look like standard thick. Are they some oddball dimension that I can't use myHomelite 2.250 rings x 1/16"?

Tomorrow will bring more fiddling to see what I really need.

Thanks, Chris B.

Don`t know about Homelite rings, try them and see. There are no locator pins on the 600 series pistons.
Pioneerguy600
 
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Sucess

There is a nut on the end of the crank and I was using rope in the cylinder to hold the crank from turning, if it is right hand that would explain why it won't turn. I will try to turn it counterclockwise tomorrow.

The nut was right handed and came off fine when turned the right way. Thanks for steering me in the right direction. The idea that they were left hand threads was incorrect info from someone else. It makes more sense that is right handed so it tightens in the riunning direction.
Cheers and Thanks to all.
Oh and Happy Canada Day!
 
The nut was right handed and came off fine when turned the right way. Thanks for steering me in the right direction. The idea that they were left hand threads was incorrect info from someone else. It makes more sense that is right handed so it tightens in the riunning direction.
Cheers and Thanks to all.
Oh and Happy Canada Day!

This is the clutch side? Most I've seen turn in a clockwise direction to take them off. I guess it's called "left hand threads".
 
A nut or bolt loosened when turned CW (to the right) is a left handed thread. I have never seen a right handed thread on the clutch side of a chainsaw because crankshaft rotation would tend to loosen it. Rut which way did you turn it to loosen (wrench or ratchet handle @ 12 o'clock)? If left I need to make a BIG note.
Lou
Note made: My FarmSaw has a right hand thread.
 
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