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And here is after. Its a big restriction and anything like this really helps with increasing the area.

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Thank you for all your help. Don't see to many 2100 huskys around here but I think I will go back and try to find the saw they came off of.:wink2:
 
Okay, here's my p50 that i thought was a p40. I took some pics with the p41 for a reference. You can't really notice much difference in size until you put them side by side. The rear handle is a bit longer and the clutch cover is wider.

My camera is not so good and neither am I.;)

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It's a bit bigger than the s25da!:msp_biggrin:

Now here's my question. I seem to have one every night. The recoil was always lazy rewinding so I took it off and found this:

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Where is the end of the spring supposed to be hooked? It can't be just laying in the bottom like that. In the second pic there is a shiny spot at 12 o'clock, is there a pin broken off there or what? And how do I fix it?

And can I run a clutch cover with a chainbrake with that full wrap? I got one on the bay this morning. I'm not fussy on that full wrap anyway.
 
The pin your spring hooks around is broken off Chris, you can drill a hole out through the cover to fit a machine screw and nut, let the end stick up far enough to allow the spring to hook around it.
The brake cover/clutch cover will work with a full wrap but will likely need the botton inside shield notched a little to allow the cover to be slipped in and out when the need arises. Something like a 1 1/2" high X 3/4" wide notch will give the cover clearance.
 
Now here's my question. I seem to have one every night. The recoil was always lazy rewinding so I took it off and found this:

[IMG]http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=177197&stc=1&d=1301006066

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Where is the end of the spring supposed to be hooked? It can't be just laying in the bottom like that. In the second pic there is a shiny spot at 12 o'clock, is there a pin broken off there or what? And how do I fix it?

And can I run a clutch cover with a chain brake with that full wrap? I got one on the bay this morning. I'm not fussy on that full wrap anyway.
I think it is wound backward. The hook belongs on the outside and the looped end in the center.

Please read this post by: Me
Click Here
Look closely at the lower photo. The hook is at 12:00 the looped end is in the center and nests in the spool.
Lou
 
The pin your spring hooks around is broken off Chris, you can drill a hole out through the cover to fit a machine screw and nut, let the end stick up far enough to allow the spring to hook around it.
The brake cover/clutch cover will work with a full wrap but will likely need the botton inside shield notched a little to allow the cover to be slipped in and out when the need arises. Something like a 1 1/2" high X 3/4" wide notch will give the cover clearance.

I figured there was a pin missing. Thats the only way I could think of to fix it too. Thanks for the info Jerry.
 
I think it is wound backward. The hook belongs on the outside and the looped end in the center.

Please read this post by: Me
Click Here
Look closely at the lower photo. The hook is at 12:00 the looped end is in the center and nests in the spool.
Lou

Yours is a farmsaw starter Lou. It takes a different spring. Mine is wound correctly, the p50 has a notch in the spool.

I hate recoil springs.:msp_tongue:
 
It also seems undersized to me. On every recoil spring I've ever seen the outside loop of the spring is larger than the retainer housing not so with that one.

One more observation. If the outside loop were over the retainer housing at 01:30 (upper photo) the sharp projection at 02:30 might act as a locator. I really thick the spring coil is to small.
Lou
 
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I have fixed them broke pins with a 3/16" pan head screw and nut like Jerry mentioned. The newer covers have a lot larger pin at the 10 oclock position. Must have been a common thing. As for the clutch cover on the narrower full wraps, I found you can remove and install the clutch cover by removing the bar nuts, sliding the cover away from the clutch, then engage the brake and slide the cover to the rear of the saw, towards the muffler. This works with the standard dual spikes, I haven't tried it with the western spikes. With the wider wrap handle, you just remove the nuts and slide the cover forward.

Here's a pic of the pin.
arrowheadpioneer
 
Is there enough metal to drill out the broken post and run a bottoming tap?
Lou

No, but that would be nice though. You have to drill all the way through. The draw back is the screw head showing on the outside of the cover.
 
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