Yes, coils are different. Same bore. You will have to switch flywheels also.
Pioneer chainsaws
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Yes, coils are different. Same bore. You will have to switch flywheels also.
Anything left of that P52 you don't want I would be interested in it?
flywheel
Not sure why, but the p52 has a normal right hand thread, and the p50 has a left hand thread on the flywheel, I managed to strip the nut for the p50. At least we have left handed dies and nuts at work.
As of right now, i think ill keep it right now in case i need some other parts.
I noticed the the clocking of the flywheels is different, that doesnt seem right to me.
Any ideas?
Not sure why, but the p52 has a normal right hand thread, and the p50 has a left hand thread on the flywheel, I managed to strip the nut for the p50. At least we have left handed dies and nuts at work.
As of right now, i think ill keep it right now in case i need some other parts.
I noticed the the clocking of the flywheels is different, that doesnt seem right to me.
Any ideas?
I'm thinking that while trying to loosen the nut on the p50, i turned the bushing inside the flywheel as well. It is rotated that direction from the p52 flywheel.
does that sound feesable? or are the bushings in there tighter than that?
Dan
does that sound feesable? or are the bushings in there tighter than that?
Dan
The flywheel is on a tapered shaft with a keyway. I am sure I have extra used flywheels if you get in trouble. Have a few extra ignition coils as well.
Can't help you with the P&C. I traded several extra Pioneer saws I had for the load of old iron in the back of my truck. I could use a clutch assemble for an IEL Super Twin if you have an extra
The older P50's are the only large P series that I've seen the left handed threads on the flywheel. All my others are right.
Not sure where to post pictures of this. Poulan pro 655 BP.
Its a Pioneer design built after the takeover of Pioneer by Poulan.
DroppedP51
ArboristSite Operative
inbred P61
Took the tillitson carb off my p61 and replaced it with an walbro off my parts P51,Had it goin sounds heaps better,Play in big wood tommorrow
Took the tillitson carb off my p61 and replaced it with an walbro off my parts P51,Had it goin sounds heaps better,Play in big wood tommorrow
Hand guard
I've been looking for these hand guards for a while now and never noticed them until yesterday, I guess I wasn't searching all that good. These things are always broken and I picked up a couple. Thought maybe somebody else needed one and didn't see them either.
POULAN PIONEER 455 655 P41 P51 P61 HAND GUARD STBX709 | eBay
I've been looking for these hand guards for a while now and never noticed them until yesterday, I guess I wasn't searching all that good. These things are always broken and I picked up a couple. Thought maybe somebody else needed one and didn't see them either.
POULAN PIONEER 455 655 P41 P51 P61 HAND GUARD STBX709 | eBay
hillwilliam
ArboristSite Operative
hand guards
Thanks for the head up, Kev1n. I should have a look. Those big ol' Pioneers are great saws - even when they say Poulan on the side. Not to diminish what a good P42 can do, though.
Hillwilliam
Thanks for the head up, Kev1n. I should have a look. Those big ol' Pioneers are great saws - even when they say Poulan on the side. Not to diminish what a good P42 can do, though.
Hillwilliam
My Pioneer 1073
I recently had a Pioneer 1073 given to me by an old farmer who had it kicking around. His son had it running a couple years ago and was about to throw it away, instead it was given new life by a first time chainsaw owner.
I hadn't done much in terms of mechanical repair before owning my chainsaw, other than some light automotive work on my own vehicle. I have lots of patience and experience with other small detail work, so I figured I would dive into getting this old Pioneer running.
When I got it, the first thing I did was dump the fuel and checked for spark. Spark was good, so I popped out the plug and found the compression to be decent (no tester so all I could go with is that it has good suction/puffing when I put my thumb over the hole). With some fresh fuel in the tank and a little bit of 50:1 mix squirted in the carb, I was able to get it to fire and run for a second or two. At that point I figured I'd go ahead and start spending money on getting it running nicely.
I replaced the spark plug with a new NGK BM7A. I managed to find a new air filter for it on eBay (part# 430520), and thanks to the generosity of Big Dan, I installed a new fuel filter (Oregon # 07-206). With all that done, it still wouldn't stay running more than a second or two.
After reading the Tillotson HU Series service manual I felt confident enough to tackle rebuilding the carb, so I ordered a carb kit (Oregon # 49-805). Rebuilding it took me about 2 hours and I must say I really enjoyed it, it was a nice change for a computer guy to go inside of a chainsaw carb and bring it back to life.
With the carb cleaned and back together with new diaphragms and gaskets, I tried to start the saw and to my delight it roared to life. Now I had another problem to tackle: the sticky starter recoil. I would get one good pull at it, then had to feed it back in painstakingly for the next pull.
I took the starter recoil off, completely disassembled it and cleaned everything with brake cleaner. Thanks to a slick YouTube video, I discovered the nail trick which made assembly of the recoil a lot more manageable. I installed a new length of Stihl brand rope and after many rebuild attempts I was finally happy with the quick and snappy recoil I had brought back to it's original glory.
I put the starter pinion back on, installed the rebuilt recoil on the saw and gave it a pull, and the same thing happened. Upon closer inspection the yoke on the starter pinion was sticking, not allowing proper retraction of the rope. I used some graphite lubricant (normally for locks) and it worked like a charm. Now the recoil snaps back in just like a brand new saw.
After all that work, I'm proud to say it starts and runs beautifully. Last week I did some final carb adjustments with the air filter cover on, it now idles beautifully, chain oils like it should and all I can say is this is one nice little saw. I'm really proud of the work I've done on restoring this saw to running condition. I can't wait to cut some wood with it!
Here are some pics of my saw:
Right after I took those pics I tried to start it (hadn't been running since last Tuesday) and it fired to life on the first pull. Gotta say it sure brought a smile to my face.
Of everything I looked at while I had this saw apart, the neatest thing I think is the little tiny bolts that hold the model tag on. They are actually little tiny hex cap screws that thread into the starter recoil body. They are the tiniest hex cap screws I've ever seen, that's for sure!
I recently had a Pioneer 1073 given to me by an old farmer who had it kicking around. His son had it running a couple years ago and was about to throw it away, instead it was given new life by a first time chainsaw owner.
I hadn't done much in terms of mechanical repair before owning my chainsaw, other than some light automotive work on my own vehicle. I have lots of patience and experience with other small detail work, so I figured I would dive into getting this old Pioneer running.
When I got it, the first thing I did was dump the fuel and checked for spark. Spark was good, so I popped out the plug and found the compression to be decent (no tester so all I could go with is that it has good suction/puffing when I put my thumb over the hole). With some fresh fuel in the tank and a little bit of 50:1 mix squirted in the carb, I was able to get it to fire and run for a second or two. At that point I figured I'd go ahead and start spending money on getting it running nicely.
I replaced the spark plug with a new NGK BM7A. I managed to find a new air filter for it on eBay (part# 430520), and thanks to the generosity of Big Dan, I installed a new fuel filter (Oregon # 07-206). With all that done, it still wouldn't stay running more than a second or two.
After reading the Tillotson HU Series service manual I felt confident enough to tackle rebuilding the carb, so I ordered a carb kit (Oregon # 49-805). Rebuilding it took me about 2 hours and I must say I really enjoyed it, it was a nice change for a computer guy to go inside of a chainsaw carb and bring it back to life.
With the carb cleaned and back together with new diaphragms and gaskets, I tried to start the saw and to my delight it roared to life. Now I had another problem to tackle: the sticky starter recoil. I would get one good pull at it, then had to feed it back in painstakingly for the next pull.
I took the starter recoil off, completely disassembled it and cleaned everything with brake cleaner. Thanks to a slick YouTube video, I discovered the nail trick which made assembly of the recoil a lot more manageable. I installed a new length of Stihl brand rope and after many rebuild attempts I was finally happy with the quick and snappy recoil I had brought back to it's original glory.
I put the starter pinion back on, installed the rebuilt recoil on the saw and gave it a pull, and the same thing happened. Upon closer inspection the yoke on the starter pinion was sticking, not allowing proper retraction of the rope. I used some graphite lubricant (normally for locks) and it worked like a charm. Now the recoil snaps back in just like a brand new saw.
After all that work, I'm proud to say it starts and runs beautifully. Last week I did some final carb adjustments with the air filter cover on, it now idles beautifully, chain oils like it should and all I can say is this is one nice little saw. I'm really proud of the work I've done on restoring this saw to running condition. I can't wait to cut some wood with it!
Here are some pics of my saw:
Right after I took those pics I tried to start it (hadn't been running since last Tuesday) and it fired to life on the first pull. Gotta say it sure brought a smile to my face.
Of everything I looked at while I had this saw apart, the neatest thing I think is the little tiny bolts that hold the model tag on. They are actually little tiny hex cap screws that thread into the starter recoil body. They are the tiniest hex cap screws I've ever seen, that's for sure!
Steve NW WI
Unwanted Riff Raff.
dteyn - nice work. It's definitely gratifying making one of these old machines roar again, especially when it's something ya don't do every day. I sent you some rep for your troubles.
I need to get my P60 back out from under the bench and work on it again. I did all the basics and got it almost running, only to discover I need to tear it completely down and put bearings and seals in it. It's been collecting dust for almost a year now, but with winter coming, I'll need more indoor projects soon. It's just too dang nice lately to sit at the bench and work inside.
I need to get my P60 back out from under the bench and work on it again. I did all the basics and got it almost running, only to discover I need to tear it completely down and put bearings and seals in it. It's been collecting dust for almost a year now, but with winter coming, I'll need more indoor projects soon. It's just too dang nice lately to sit at the bench and work inside.
Hey guys, this d00d could use some help. I tried a bit but something like this might be for the pros.
Just a n00b looking for a recoil or recoil spring for his Pioneer Farmsaw.....
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/183756.htm
Just a n00b looking for a recoil or recoil spring for his Pioneer Farmsaw.....
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/183756.htm
There are recoil springs still available. The original PN is 431663, preface that with 507 (Poulan weedeater) and you'll find plenty of replacements.Hey guys, this d00d could use some help. I tried a bit but something like this might be for the pros.
Just a n00b looking for a recoil or recoil spring for his Pioneer Farmsaw.....
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/183756.htm
If you need the plastic take up spool (430609) it's NLA, have to find one used. I wouldn't order a spring until I found a spool if needed. GL
Lou
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